Finding a lot • Ontario reality check

49 Things You Need to Know Before Buying a Building Lot in Ontario

Buying land feels simple until you discover the “invisible stuff” that controls everything: zoning, setbacks, drainage, septic feasibility, well depth, conservation authority limits, easements, and surprise fees. A house can be inspected. A lot can hide its problems like a teenager hides snack wrappers.

Builder warning (said kindly): The most expensive sentence in custom building is: “We already bought the lot… now what?” Use this checklist before you waive conditions—especially if the lot is rural, waterfront, on a slope, or “priced to sell fast.”

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Quick note: This is general info, not legal advice. Always confirm details with your municipality, lawyer, and qualified pros.

It all starts with buying a building lot. Whether you want a couple of acres for privacy or a tidy subdivision lot with services at the road, land is the foundation of the whole dream.

But here’s the difference: when you buy a house, you can see the problems. When you buy land, the “problems” are usually paperwork, water, soil, and rules—none of which show up nicely in the listing photos.

My simple rule: Before you fall in love with the view, fall in love with the feasibility. Views don’t pull permits. Soil does.

The Checklist: 49 Things (Yes, All 49) You Must Check

1) Is the property zoned for residential construction?

Start here because zoning is the gatekeeper. If the zoning doesn’t allow the kind of residence you want, everything else is just an expensive daydream. Confirm permitted uses, minimum lot area/frontage, setbacks, height, and lot coverage for that specific zoning category.
2) Is nearby property zoned for non-residential use?

Today it’s “quiet country.” Tomorrow it’s “why is there a truck backing up at 5:30am?” Check adjacent zoning for industrial/commercial permissions so you don’t accidentally buy the perfect lot beside a future operation.
3) Is nearby property zoned for multi-family residences?

If you’re expecting low density, confirm whether duplexes, townhomes, or apartments are permitted nearby. Even if you’re fine with it personally, density changes traffic, parking, noise, and resale dynamics.
4) Is this a historic district or heritage-controlled area?

Heritage rules can affect what you’re allowed to build or change—especially exterior design, materials, and demolition. If you’re buying an older lot with an existing structure, verify whether approvals are required beyond a normal building permit.
5) Is the area more prone to crime?

This isn’t about paranoia—it’s about planning. Talk to locals, check police info where available, and visit at different times. Lighting, visibility, and distance to neighbors can change security realities fast.
6) How safe is the location (hazards, traffic, cliffs, water)?

Steep drops, deep water, rail lines, high-speed roads, quarry blasting zones, and hunting areas all matter. “Beautiful” and “safe for kids/dogs/guests” are not automatically the same thing.
7) Are there subdivision covenants or restrictive agreements?

Covenants can restrict building size, exterior finishes, outbuildings, RV parking, fences, short-term rentals, and more. The best time to discover a covenant is before you make an offer—not after you ordered windows.
8) Is there a neighborhood association (and fees)?

Some communities have annual fees for shared roads, docks, snowplowing, or amenities. Ask for the budget, rules, enforcement history, and whether fees can increase.
9) What are your neighbors like (noise, upkeep, pets)?

Walk the road. Listen. Look at property maintenance patterns. A “quiet” area at 2pm can be a different world at 10pm or Saturday morning.
10) Is the lot suitable for the size, shape, and slope of the home you want?

The lot dictates what fits: driveway approach, garage orientation, grading costs, and outdoor space after the footprint is in. A house that looks perfect on paper can be a geometry nightmare on a narrow or awkwardly shaped lot.
11) Is the property in a floodplain?

Floodplain constraints can change finished-floor elevations, restrict filling/alterations, and create extra approvals. Also: insurance and financing can get complicated. Confirm flood mapping, regulated areas, and local requirements.
12) Are there streams, drainage ditches, or storm infrastructure nearby?

Water features can trigger setbacks and approvals. Even a “seasonal” channel can become serious in spring melt. If you need to alter flow, don’t assume you can—verify the approval path first.
13) How does water drain off the property?

Poor drainage turns into wet basements, ice sheets, and neighbor conflicts. Ideally, you want positive drainage away from the future house and a realistic plan for swales, grading, and outlets.
14) Are high-voltage power lines nearby?

Beyond aesthetics, power corridors can come with easements and restrictions. At minimum, they affect where you can build and how the property feels day-to-day.
15) Can you hire any builder, or is it a controlled-builder subdivision?

Some developments restrict builder choice or enforce design control. If you want a specific build method or performance standard, make sure you’re allowed to choose the team that can deliver it.
16) What school district is it in (and how does it affect resale)?

Even if you don’t have kids, buyers do. School quality and bus routes influence resale value, commute routines, and the “livability” factor.
17) How convenient is the location (daily life logistics)?

Distance to groceries, medical care, fuel, work, and emergency services adds up. Rural living is amazing—until you’re doing an hour round-trip for one missing plumbing fitting.
18) Will this location still work for your future lifestyle needs?

Think ahead: aging-in-place, winter driving, accessibility, services, and whether your “dream” becomes inconvenient as life changes. Land is long-term. Choose with the next 10–20 years in mind.
19) Will your home value fit the neighborhood (and vice versa)?

Overbuilding for an area can hurt resale. Underbuilding can hurt lifestyle and future buyer interest. You want “best in class,” not “alien spaceship landing in a starter-home neighborhood.”
20) Is the home orientation sensible for sun, weather, and comfort?

Orientation affects daylight, glare, passive solar gains, snow drifting, and where your deck will actually be enjoyable. Plan window placement with the sun path and prevailing winds—not just the pretty elevation drawing.
21) Are the views protected—or could they disappear?

If you’re paying for a view, ask what can be built between you and that view. Zoning, severance potential, and future phases can change everything. “I thought it would stay that way” is not a strategy.
22) Golf course lots: are you in the firing line?

Golf balls break windows and attract yard visitors looking for their “Titleist that definitely went right here.” Also consider early mowing noise and reduced privacy.
23) Is the lot near an entrance to a public area (park, beach, trail)?

Public access points can bring foot traffic, parking overflow, and noise. It might be fine—or it might mean your front yard becomes the shortcut for half the township.
24) What utilities and services are available (now—not “planned”)?

Confirm hydro, internet, natural gas (if applicable), water/sewer availability, garbage pickup, and road maintenance. “Available at the road” can still mean big dollars if the run is long or the terrain is nasty.
25) How far are emergency resources (hospital, fire, police)?

Response times matter, and they can also influence insurance premiums. Rural lots are wonderful—just understand the trade-offs and plan accordingly.
26) Are there utility connection / “tap” fees (and what do they really cost)?

Some municipalities or services have connection fees, deposits, or development charges. Get this in writing where possible, and don’t forget the cost to trench/bring services to the house location.
27) Are there steep hills nearby (winter access, noise, wear)?

Hills affect plowing, driving safety, and even day-to-day convenience. Bonus reality: trucks downshifting or climbing can be loud. Beautiful topography isn’t always quiet.
28) How easy will it be to maintain (mowing, slope, landscaping)?

A dramatic slope looks great in photos—then you try to mow it. Maintenance time and costs become part of your “ownership budget,” so factor it in honestly.
29) Driveway restrictions (width, location, culverts, sightlines)

Some areas restrict driveway widths, placements, turning radii, or require specific culvert sizing. If the driveway is hard, the build is hard. Access matters for concrete trucks, pumps, and deliveries.
30) Winter road services (plowing, sanding, snow routes)

Ask who plows, how fast, and whether there are winter parking restrictions. In rural areas, you may be responsible for private roads—or you may share costs through an association.
31) Road extensions / bridges (who pays, who maintains)?

If the build site isn’t easily accessible, you may be into road construction, culverts, or even a bridge. That can turn a “great deal” lot into a “why is this driveway worth more than my truck?” situation.
32) Special local building requirements (fire access, water supply, etc.)

Some areas require enhanced fire protection measures if you’re far from hydrants, or may have access/turnaround requirements for fire vehicles. Confirm local requirements early—these can affect design and cost.
33) Will you need a well (and what’s the water like)?

Well depth, yield, and water quality vary wildly—even between neighbors. Ask about typical drilling depth, water treatment needs, and whether there are known local issues (iron, sulphur, hardness).
34) Privacy (today and after neighbors build)

Consider sightlines: where future windows/driveways might go, and whether your outdoor space will feel private once homes are built around you. Subdivision “privacy” is usually temporary until the next phase goes in.
35) Security (visibility, access points, lighting)

Hidden access, long driveways, and isolated corners can be great for peace—and also great for unwanted visitors. Plan for lighting, cameras, and clear sightlines if the property layout creates blind spots.
36) Bugs and wildlife (mosquitoes, blackflies, critters)

Wetlands and low areas can mean intense mosquito seasons. Also check for nuisance wildlife patterns. What’s charming on a weekend can be less charming when it’s your Tuesday night garbage bin battle.
37) Are you buying the land—or leasing it?

Most buyers assume land ownership is included. Sometimes it isn’t. Review the title carefully. Lease terms can affect financing, resale, and what you’re allowed to build.
38) Are there special fees/taxes on new builds (development charges, levies)?

This is where budgets go to die quietly. Confirm municipal development charges, parkland levies, education levies, and any subdivision review fees or deposits. These can be significant.
39) Are there liens, encumbrances, or title problems?

Your lawyer needs to confirm clear title. Don’t assume because it’s “just land” it’s clean—rights-of-way, old agreements, or unpaid claims can follow the property.
40) Can you insure the home you plan to build there?

Flood risk, distance from fire services, and unique site hazards can affect insurability and cost. A quick insurance conversation now can save you a nasty surprise later.
41) What will site prep cost (trees, grading, rock, access, erosion control)?

Site prep is where “cheap land” becomes expensive. Tree removal, blasting rock, importing fill, and managing water/erosion can dwarf what people expect—especially on sloped or wet lots.
42) What’s the condition of roads/bridges you rely on to reach the lot?

If a bridge is posted for weight or due for replacement, your deliveries and access can get complicated. Ask about seasonal road restrictions and long-term infrastructure plans.
43) What’s the future outlook for the area (growth, decline, services)?

Look at development applications, vacancy trends, and municipal planning. A changing area can be a good investment—or a sign of upcoming noise, traffic, or service strains.
44) What are the surrounding neighborhoods like (drive-through reality)?

Your route to home affects daily life and resale perception. Drive it in daylight, at night, and in winter. What you tolerate on a sunny Saturday may feel different in a February snow squall.
45) What future infrastructure is planned (highways, airport expansion, major roads)?

Long-term projects can add noise and change traffic patterns. Ask the municipality about planned transportation corridors or major expansions that could affect your enjoyment.
46) Are future roads planned inside the subdivision (your “quiet street” might not stay quiet)?

A dead-end street today can become a through-road tomorrow. Review subdivision phasing plans so you understand what “Phase 1 peace” turns into when Phase 4 arrives.
47) Septic cost can vary wildly—have you proven feasibility?

Septic pricing swings with soil, slope, water table, and system type. Typical new-system costs in Ontario often land in the tens of thousands, and advanced systems can go higher. The key is feasibility: don’t guess—test and design properly.

Helpful: Ontario septic basics and your early budgeting can be informed by your overall construction approach and scope.
48) Not all lots suit all home styles (walkouts, basements, slabs)

Walkouts need the right grade and drainage conditions. Slab-on-grade needs excellent frost and insulation detailing. Basements need smart waterproofing and drainage planning. Choose the lot that fits the design—or choose the design that fits the lot. Don’t force it.
49) Conservation authorities may have final say in regulated areas—confirm early

If your lot is in or near regulated areas (wetlands, floodplains, watercourses, shorelines), you may need conservation authority permits or approvals in addition to municipal permitting. This can affect building location, grading, vegetation removal, and timelines. Confirm whether your lot is regulated before you waive conditions.

Official starting point: Permits under the Conservation Authorities Act

If you only remember one thing: Lots don’t “become buildable” because you’re motivated. They become buildable because the rules, soil, water, access, and approvals align. This is exactly why we tell clients: do the due diligence first, then design.

🧮 ICF cost calculator 🔨 ICF custom home building ✅ Why choose our ICF team 🗂️ Start your permit plan

FAQ: Buying a Building Lot in Ontario

1) What’s the smartest “condition” to include when buying a lot?

The smartest condition is the one that protects you from the invisible problems: zoning verification, satisfactory financing, and—on rural lots—septic feasibility and well feasibility. If the lot needs conservation authority clearance, that should also be a condition or at least part of your due diligence timeline. In plain English: don’t waive conditions until you’ve confirmed you can legally build what you want, where you want, with services you can afford.

2) Who should I call first: the municipality, a builder, or a designer?

If you’re still shopping, a builder or designer can help you quickly spot red flags and estimate site costs so you don’t fall in love with a money pit. Once you’re serious about a specific lot, the municipality (planning/building) confirms zoning basics and required approvals. Then your designer/engineer handles the technical proof. Best sequence: builder-style feasibility check → municipal confirmation → technical design. That order saves time and redesign costs.

3) How do I know if I need a conservation authority permit?

You don’t “guess” this—your local conservation authority confirms it based on regulated areas (floodplains, wetlands, shorelines, valleys, watercourses, etc.). If the lot is near water or low-lying areas, assume it’s possible and check early. Even if you can still build, the permit may change where the house sits, how grading is handled, and what vegetation you can remove. It can also affect timelines, so it’s a planning issue as much as a legal one.

4) What’s the biggest financial surprise on rural lots?

Site costs. Septic, well, driveway length, clearing, rock, fill, drainage control, and utility runs can swing your budget hard. Two lots with the same price tag can have wildly different “all-in” costs once you actually make them build-ready. The fix is boring but effective: get realistic budget numbers early, and treat the lot like a technical project—not a romantic purchase.

5) Can I “just put the house anywhere” on my acreage?

Usually no. Your building envelope is controlled by setbacks, easements, septic location rules, driveway sightlines, and sometimes natural heritage or hazard constraints. You might have 2 acres, but only a smaller portion is realistically buildable without major cost or approvals. The best lots have multiple workable building locations; the worst lots have one tiny “sweet spot” that forces design compromises.

6) What documents should I ask for before buying?

At minimum: survey (or reference plan), zoning information, any registered covenants, any easements/right-of-way details, and any known environmental or hazard mapping information the seller has. For rural lots: ask if prior septic assessments exist, any well records, and any conservation authority correspondence. Your lawyer will do title due diligence, but you want practical build info too—because a “clean title” doesn’t automatically mean “easy build.”

7) How do I avoid drainage problems from day one?

Choose a house location with natural positive drainage, plan grading early, and don’t ignore spring melt patterns. If the lot is low or receives runoff from higher land, you may need engineered drainage solutions or strict grading controls. Also remember: your grading affects neighbors, and municipalities often require grading sign-off in subdivisions. Water always wins—so give it a path that doesn’t include your basement.

8) Is it better to buy a serviced lot (water/sewer) or rural (well/septic)?

Serviced lots can simplify approvals and reduce uncertainty, but they often cost more and may come with tighter subdivision rules. Rural lots offer space and privacy but require due diligence: septic feasibility, well yield/quality, longer driveways, and often more complex permitting. Neither is “better” universally. The right choice depends on your lifestyle, risk tolerance, budget, and whether you want convenience or flexibility.

9) What’s a reasonable timeline from “buying the lot” to “breaking ground”?

It varies by municipality, complexity, and whether you need extra approvals (conservation authority, variances, engineered servicing). A straightforward serviced subdivision lot can move faster; a rural/waterfront lot can take longer due to studies, design iterations, and reviews. The safest approach is to assume you’ll spend meaningful time in planning and approvals—and that rushing usually creates redesign work and delays.

10) How do I keep the lot decision tied to my build budget?

Treat the lot price as only one line in the budget. Add a realistic allowance for site costs (clearing, driveway, servicing, septic/well, grading, drainage). Then match the home design to what the lot can support without heroic spending. If you want a high-performance build (and fewer comfort regrets), also plan envelope and heating strategy early. If you want to explore ICF and long-term operating savings, start here: custom ICF construction.

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10 Comments

Kyle Winters

April 10, 2017 / 6:16 pm Reply

I didn’t realize that there was so much to take into consideration when choosing whether or not to buy vacant land. However, you do raise a good point about future projects. You want to make sure that the land you buy isn’t going to end up right next to an airport or something.
Perry

September 1, 2017 / 7:21 am Reply

Purchased vacant lot in Ontario to build home – First time buyer paid 13% HST . Looking to recover HST and land transfer tax- will build home within 1 year and less than 9 months for Land transfer tax paid.
Can I apply for HST rebate paid on lot and land transfer rebate when home is complete (builder will build home)

Please advise,

Perry
Dave

November 27, 2017 / 11:27 am Reply

Have you heard of restrictions for building on vacant land where the road is not winter serviced or fully maintained by the local municipalities (this is rural).
Shari Prowse

November 3, 2018 / 7:10 am Reply

Consider costs associated with cultural heritage resource concerns. The property could have potential for archaeological resources, for example, and an archaeological assessment may be required to identify archaeological sites and, if require mitigate them. More information is available at the Ontario Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Sport’s website.
Grill

March 18, 2019 / 10:07 am Reply

Hi,
I am going to buy the land for storage purpose.
Where can I find out what is the building code on the land?
Regards,
Grill
- admin
  
  March 18, 2019 / 2:22 pm Reply
  
  At the planning department of your township. They may have the info on the internet.
Lou

April 24, 2020 / 9:20 pm Reply

Hello,

I’m interested in some property (50+ acres) in Ontario with a structure on it. It is zoned for rural, what does that mean? What can I do or not do on the property? It has two structures on it, a home and garage.
- admin
  
  April 25, 2020 / 10:00 am Reply
  
  Call your Township and ask. The following will explain more: http://www.osmtownship.ca/en/township-hall/resources/Documents/Section-7—Rural-Residential-RR-Zone.pdf
Trevor Carlton

January 15, 2021 / 2:40 am Reply

This was really helpful especially for the people planning to buy a lot for the first time and for those considering to transfer in Ontario. I was planning on moving to Ontario together with my family and this made me realize that careful planning could benefit you a lot. I came across a Paradise Developments article in search for good places to settle down with my wife and 4 kids, so I am truly thankful for sharing this great blog. Cheers!
Ahmer Sarfaraz

April 22, 2021 / 7:10 pm Reply

Hi,
i have a property with a 50 lot, as well as my neighbor has the same size of lot beside me. can i buy his lot and build a house on that full lot ?

The Checklist: 49 Things (Yes, All 49) You Must Check

1) Is the property zoned for residential construction?

2) Is nearby property zoned for non-residential use?

3) Is nearby property zoned for multi-family residences?

4) Is this a historic district or heritage-controlled area?

5) Is the area more prone to crime?

6) How safe is the location (hazards, traffic, cliffs, water)?

7) Are there subdivision covenants or restrictive agreements?

8) Is there a neighborhood association (and fees)?

9) What are your neighbors like (noise, upkeep, pets)?

10) Is the lot suitable for the size, shape, and slope of the home you want?

11) Is the property in a floodplain?

12) Are there streams, drainage ditches, or storm infrastructure nearby?

13) How does water drain off the property?

14) Are high-voltage power lines nearby?

15) Can you hire any builder, or is it a controlled-builder subdivision?

16) What school district is it in (and how does it affect resale)?

17) How convenient is the location (daily life logistics)?

18) Will this location still work for your future lifestyle needs?

19) Will your home value fit the neighborhood (and vice versa)?

20) Is the home orientation sensible for sun, weather, and comfort?

21) Are the views protected—or could they disappear?

22) Golf course lots: are you in the firing line?

23) Is the lot near an entrance to a public area (park, beach, trail)?

24) What utilities and services are available (now—not “planned”)?

25) How far are emergency resources (hospital, fire, police)?

26) Are there utility connection / “tap” fees (and what do they really cost)?

27) Are there steep hills nearby (winter access, noise, wear)?

28) How easy will it be to maintain (mowing, slope, landscaping)?

29) Driveway restrictions (width, location, culverts, sightlines)

30) Winter road services (plowing, sanding, snow routes)

31) Road extensions / bridges (who pays, who maintains)?

32) Special local building requirements (fire access, water supply, etc.)

33) Will you need a well (and what’s the water like)?

34) Privacy (today and after neighbors build)

35) Security (visibility, access points, lighting)

36) Bugs and wildlife (mosquitoes, blackflies, critters)

37) Are you buying the land—or leasing it?

38) Are there special fees/taxes on new builds (development charges, levies)?

39) Are there liens, encumbrances, or title problems?

40) Can you insure the home you plan to build there?

41) What will site prep cost (trees, grading, rock, access, erosion control)?

42) What’s the condition of roads/bridges you rely on to reach the lot?

43) What’s the future outlook for the area (growth, decline, services)?

44) What are the surrounding neighborhoods like (drive-through reality)?

45) What future infrastructure is planned (highways, airport expansion, major roads)?

46) Are future roads planned inside the subdivision (your “quiet street” might not stay quiet)?

47) Septic cost can vary wildly—have you proven feasibility?

48) Not all lots suit all home styles (walkouts, basements, slabs)

49) Conservation authorities may have final say in regulated areas—confirm early

FAQ: Buying a Building Lot in Ontario

Planning a build in Simcoe / Georgian Bay?

10 Comments

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