Septic Systems in Ontario

What You Need To Know About Septic Systems Before Purchasing A Building Lot in Ontario

septic

Planning to purchase a lot to build a home in Ontario?

Before you do anything else, check if a public sewer system is available? If not, you will need a septic system to treat and dispose of sewage from the home you plan to build.

What type of septic system you will need, how it will be designed and constructed depends on the particular lot, how much space you have, the characteristics of the surrounding land and the make-up of the soil.

Whatever type, all septic systems require careful attention to design, construction, operation, and maintenance.

The septic system typically consists of a septic tank buried in the ground and a drain-field that can fit within the front or back yard of the home-site.

Septic Systems in Ontario
Septic System

Household discharge from the kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry room flow directly into the septic tank where the solids are retained and separated from the liquid. The liquid waste flows out of the tank through a series of pipes to where it is slowly released into the leaching field where it leaches through the soil and is purified before reaching the groundwater.

The leaching bed is made up of porous materials, such as sand and gravel, and acts as a filter to clean the water before it seeps back into the ground.

septic-tank
septic-tank

Light solids, such as soap suds and fat, float to the top and form a scum layer. This layer remains on top and gradually thickens until you have the tank cleaned.

Unfortunately, not all soils can absorb wastewater or purify it.

Septic systems that are installed in unsuitable soils usually malfunction by leaking raw, untreated sewage to the surface of the ground or a roadside ditch, or by contaminating the groundwater. The sewage may contain deadly bacteria and viruses.

It can be expensive to remedy the odor problems and potential health hazards that result from the use of septic systems in unsuitable soil.

Because of that, the Ontario Building Code requires an expansive soil and site assessment by the local health department to determine the suitability of the soils and topography of the lot.

Setbacks For Septic in Ontario
Setbacks For Septic in Ontario

Reviewing the Lot

If a septic system is needed, walk over the lot and look for indications of soil problems or site limitations that could affect the performance of a septic system.

Consider the following before you purchase a lot:

  • Is there enough space on the lot for the home, the septic system, and water well (if needed)?
  • Is the land next to a stream or river that could flood it?
  • Does the area seem wet and swampy?
  • Is there a bedrock that can interfere with the septic system?
  • Determine the type of soil on the lot by digging a two 5 foot holes where your field is to be situated
  • Find out what type of septic system, if any, will work on those soils.
  • Obtain a cost estimate for installing the kind of septic system you need.
  • Ask about the operating requirements and maintenance costs for the system.
  • Your well and all neighbors’ wells should be 100 feet or further from the septic system.
  • There must also be enough land for a “repair area” that can be used if the system needs expansion or replacement in the future.

Septic Systems in Ontario

Part 8: “Sewage Systems” of the Ontario Building Code (OBC) regulates the design, construction, operation and maintenance of on-site septic systems for most single-family homes. In most areas, the local municipality’s Building Department examines plans, issues permits, and does inspections for systems regulated under the OBC. In some regions, this approval responsibility has been delegated to local Conservation Authorities or Health Units. The Municipal Building Department will be able to redirect inquiries.

Proper approvals under the OBC must be obtained by the homeowner before installing any of the suggestions for improving system performance.

Download: Septic Smart – Understanding Your Home Septic System

The capacity of the Septic System

The two primary elements that command the size and complexity of a system in Ontario are the maximum amount of wastewater that the building could produce on a daily basis, and soil/site conditions.

Case in point; a small one-bedroom /one-bathroom house would have a maximum daily flow rate of about 750 liters.  If that system were being located in soils with a high absorption rate, then the system could be quite small and be installed at a reasonable cost.

On the other hand, if it is a huge five bedrooms home with a maximum daily flow rate of 2500 Liters and clay soil (which can only absorb 4 liters, per square meter, per day) then the cost could be enormous because a lot of sand would need to be trucked in.

It is almost impossible to determine how much a septic system is going to cost without visiting the property to assess the available space, access for large equipment, cleanup needs, etc.

The capacity of Septic System in Ontario Explained

Types of Septic Systems

The kinds of soil and site conditions on the land determine whether the local health department can issue a septic permit, as well as the type of septic system needed there.

The conventional septic system, with a septic tank and a number of trenches buried 2 to 3 feet deep, is used at almost one-half of the homesites with septic systems in Ontario.

It works well in brightly colored (red or brown), thick, loamy-textured soils with deep water tables. This type of system is relatively inexpensive; the average installation cost ranges from $7,500 to $10,000.

On some soils that are too wet or too shallow for a conventional septic system, a modified standard system or an alternative septic system may be used.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Advanced Treatment Systems – Alternative Septic System

If a conventional system cannot be used, you may wish to determine the installation cost and maintenance costs of the alternative septic system that can be used.

Advantages of alternative systems:

  • used on sites not suited for conventional septic systems
  • need much smaller septic fields
  • have the potential to remove significantly more bacteria and organic material than a conventional septic system
  • may extend the life of an existing leaching bed
  • take up less room in the yard
  • may reduce nutrient output (depending on the type)

Disadvantages

  • more expensive to purchase and install
  • are more costly to operate than a conventional septic system (electrical costs, media replacement)
  • includes more mechanical parts that can break down or need replacement
  • requires mandatory maintenance (increases costs)

You may want to consider alternative septic systems when:

  • coping with lots with inadequate conditions for conventional systems
  • dealing with lots that can’t accommodate the size of a regular bed
  • replacing an old failed septic system
  • building on hard-to-access lots where transporting materials for conventional systems is costly and difficult
  • if you want to provide additional nitrate reduction that some of the advanced treatment systems provide

There are many soils that are not suitable for an alternative septic system either.

For these reasons, it is in your best interest to determine the suitability of a lot for a particular kind of septic system before purchasing the lot. If you can use a conventional system, ask about any modifications to the system or to the site that may increase the installation cost.

Also, ask whether the approval affects the number of bedrooms that can be built in the home, or the location of the house, driveway, or a swimming pool.

In any case, it is a good idea to make the purchase of a building lot conditional upon the issuance of a permit for a particular type of septic system.

Download: Advanced Treatment Systems — Alternatives to Conventional Septic Systems

Septic System Cost – Ontario

More On Septic Systems Below:

Buying a House With a Well and Septic System

Buying a House With a Well and Septic System

 

Buying a House With a Well and Septic System

Buying a House With a Well and Septic System: A Comprehensive Guide

Ah, the charm of rural living! Rolling fields, serene silence, and enough fresh air to make city dwellers green with envy. But life away from urban utilities comes with its quirks, notably wells and septic systems. These unsung heroes keep your water flowing and your waste disappearing, but they require a little know-how to manage properly. Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty (without getting too dirty) of what it means to own a home with these systems and how to ensure you’re not buying into a future plumbing disaster.

What You Need to Know About Wells

Your well is more than just a hole in the ground; it’s your lifeline to clean, drinkable water. Think of it as your personal water vending machine, but instead of a coin slot, you have aquifers. Not all wells are created equal, so let’s break them down.

The Three Amigos of Wells

  1. Dug Wells: Wide, shallow, and about as sophisticated as digging a hole at the beach. These wells tap into surface water, making them more susceptible to contamination and running dry during droughts.

  2. Bored Wells: The middle child of the well family, these are also shallow but a bit more refined than dug wells. They’re common but share the same vulnerabilities.

  3. Drilled Wells: The Rolls-Royce of wells. Deeper, narrower, and more expensive, they reach aquifers that are safer and more reliable. If you’re serious about good water, this is your ticket.

Fun Fact: An aquifer is like an underground sponge full of water. A well is the straw that lets you take a sip—but make sure it’s a clean one!

Anatomy of a Well

Your well isn’t just a hole with water at the bottom. It’s a complex system that includes:

  • Casing: The protective shell that keeps your well from collapsing. Think of it as the spine of your water system.

  • Pump: The hardworking heart that pulls water up to your home. Drilled wells usually use submersible pumps, while shallow wells opt for centrifugal ones.

  • Cap and Seal: These keep contaminants out. If the cap looks more “open-door policy” than secure fortress, it’s time for repairs.

  • Drainage System: Water should flow away from the well, not toward it. If it looks like your well’s hosting a backyard pool party, that’s a problem.

Inspect Before You Invest

A thorough inspection can save you thousands of dollars and gallons of headaches. Here’s what to check:

  • Location: Wells need to be at least 50 feet from potential contaminants (septic tanks, manure piles, etc.).

  • Pump Performance: Pressure should hold steady between 40-60 psi. If it’s dropping faster than your enthusiasm for DIY plumbing, something’s wrong.

  • Water Quality: Test for bacteria, nitrates, and heavy metals. Even if it’s “crystal clear,” it might not be safe.

Water Quality: Clean, Clear, and Contaminant-Free

Water quality isn’t just about taste—although no one wants to sip a glass of Eau de Rotten Egg. Contaminants can pose serious health risks, so testing is non-negotiable.

Common Culprits

  • Bacteria: Total coliform and E. coli are the usual suspects. If your water has these, it’s basically screaming, “Boil me before you drink me!”

  • Nitrates: Often from fertilizers or septic leakage, these are especially dangerous for infants.

  • Heavy Metals: Lead, iron, and manganese can turn your water into a toxic cocktail.

Pro Tip: Always include a water quality test as a condition of sale. If the seller hesitates, consider it a red flag big enough to wave from the top of a well casing.

Septic Systems: Nature’s Underground Recycler

Let’s face it: septic systems don’t get the credit they deserve. These underground warriors handle everything you flush, rinse, and drain. But they’re not magical; they need maintenance to keep the “flush and forget” dream alive.

Septic System 101

  1. Septic Tank: The first stop for your wastewater. Solids settle at the bottom, oils float to the top, and bacteria break it all down. If your tank isn’t pumped regularly, expect a smelly uprising.

  2. Leaching Bed: A series of pipes that distribute treated wastewater into the soil. The soil acts as a natural filter, but if it’s soggy or smells foul, it’s waving a “Help Needed” sign.

Inspect Before You Accept

A failing septic system is more than a stinky inconvenience; it’s an environmental hazard. Here’s what to look for:

  • Tank Condition: Rust, cracks, or leaks mean trouble.

  • Drainage: Water pooling around the leaching bed is a big no-no.

  • Maintenance Records: If the owner can’t remember the last pump-out, assume it’s overdue.

Warning: Never stick your head into a septic tank. The gases inside are more lethal than a family argument during the holidays.

Costs: Know What You’re Getting Into

  • New Well: Drilling costs vary but expect to shell out $10,000-$20,000 for a deep well.

  • Septic System Replacement: A new system can cost $15,000-$30,000. Maintenance, like regular pump-outs, is far cheaper in the long run.

Final Checklist: Be a Proactive Buyer

  1. Inspect the well and septic system before signing anything.

  2. Test water quality thoroughly. Your health is worth it.

  3. Budget for potential upgrades or replacements.

  4. Negotiate the sale price based on any necessary repairs.

Living with a well and septic system isn’t hard, but it requires awareness and upkeep. Treat these systems well, and they’ll serve you faithfully for years. And hey, if all else fails, at least you’ll have some hilarious stories to tell—like the time your well pump decided to quit mid-shower.

Setbacks For Septic in Ontario

Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System

Septic System
Maintaining Your Septic System

In this Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System, you will learn that the way you treat your septic system will influence how long the system lasts and how well it functions.

If you own or rent a property served by an on-site sewage system, you need to think about how your actions affect the system. You need to be careful about what substances you flush down the drain and how often your septic tank is cleaned out and inspected.

These decisions will impact on the effectiveness of your septic system and making the wrong one can lead to expensive and time-consuming problems. Sometimes, they can also result in harm to the natural environment or public health by polluting lakes or contaminating drinking water supplies.

Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System

To avoid the inconvenience and cost associated with the repair or replacement of a failed septic system, you should know how to correctly operate and maintain your septic system.

This “Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System” provides some helpful advice for property owners about the steps they can and should take to help their septic system perform well for years to come.

HOW YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM WORKS…

A typical on-site sewage system consists of two major parts: a septic tank and a leaching bed area. Septic tanks should have two chambers and are usually constructed of concrete, steel, fiberglass or polyethylene, are watertight and are buried underground.

The purpose of the septic tank is to separate solids from liquids in the wastewater stream and begin the process of breaking down contaminants. Solids settle to the bottom and scum floats to the top of the tank. This process occurs without oxygen, so the tank needs to be sealed.

Wastewater from the septic tank then flows to the leaching bed area through a distribution box or header line. Leaching beds (sometimes called tile beds, disposal areas or absorption areas) consist of underground perforated pipes or clay tiles which evenly distribute wastewater over natural soil or imported fill.

The purpose of the leaching bed is to treat further the wastewater through a process where bacteria digest and remove impurities such as suspended solids, organic chemicals, viruses, and bacteria. The leaching bed disposes of the filtered wastewater into the natural soil and, ultimately, into the groundwater.

Most owners of rural (and some suburban) properties and people who live in small communities are probably living with a septic system. Almost all cottages or recreational properties also rely upon on-site sewage disposal. Sometimes, all that can be seen of a septic system is a large grassed area with no trees, patios or paved areas. In other cases, the leaching bed area may be a raised mound on the property.

When buying a rural or cottage property, it is important that you or your lawyer determine whether a septic system exists and that it is working properly (a professional inspection may be appropriate).

If the previous owner does not have a record showing the location of the septic tank or leaching bed area, you may be able to get it from the local municipal building department, board of health or conservation authority. If there is a record of the company that installed the system, the firm may have drawings or site plans showing the location of the system. Companies that pump septic tanks can also locate access ports.

Once you have a copy of a site plan showing the location of the septic system, make sure you keep the records up to date and in a safe place for future reference.

COMMON SEPTIC SYSTEM PROBLEMS

There are some obvious signs of trouble with septic systems. These include:

  •  toilets or drains that are backed up or run more slowly than usual
  •  foul odors in the house or drinking water
  •  sogginess in the ground around the septic tank or leaching bed area
  •  surface flooding of sewage or septic tank effluent around the septic system
  •  activated alarm signals (lights or bells) on special treatment units 
  •  dosing pumps that run continuously or not at all (Note: not all systems have pumps)
  •  unusually green or thick grass growing in or on the leaching bed area
  •  significant algae growth in or around nearby lakes or water bodies
  •  high levels of nitrates, bacteria or other contaminants in well water 

Toilets and Drains are NOT Garbage Cans!

Some items you flush down a toilet or pour down a drain can significantly reduce the ability of the beneficial bacteria in a septic system to break down and treat domestic sewage. Harmful chemicals and substances will kill bacteria and render a septic system useless. Bulky or hard-to-break-down products can clog pipes, quickly fill septic tanks and decrease the effectiveness of the system. Septic tank additives/starters may be harmful to septic systems and are not necessary to begin or continue septic tank operation.

NEVER put the following items or substances into a septic system:

  •  fats, oils and grease,
  •  gasoline, antifreeze,
  •  varnishes, paints, and solvents,
  •  caustic drain and toilet bowl
  • cleaners,
  •  photographic solutions,
  • bleach, pesticides,
  •  nail polish remover,
  •  cat box litter,
  •  tampons, sanitary napkins,
  • diapers, paper towels, facial
  • tissues, condoms,
  •  plastics,
  •  coffee grounds, egg shells and other kitchen waste or
  •  cigarette filters.

TIPS ON MAINTAINING YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM …

There are many steps property owners can take to improve the functioning of their septic system and extend its life:

  1. Conserve water and reduce waste flow into the system by installing water saving features in plumbing fixtures, using dishwashers and laundry machines only with full loads, taking shorter showers rather than full baths, fixing leaky faucets and avoiding the use of garbage disposal units — too much water will overload a septic system.
  2. Ensure septic tanks are inspected at least every two years by a qualified person and pump tanks out at least every 3 – 5 years (or sooner since frequency depends on tank/household size). These actions can be combined.
  3. Do not impair access to the septic tank so that proper maintenance and servicing can occur.
  4. Reduce the use of phosphate-based detergents, soaps, and cleaners to minimize algae growth in nearby lakes and rivers.  Phosphates can impair water quality and fish habitat.
  5. Do not reduce access to the septic tank so that proper maintenance and servicing can occur
  6. Minimize the use of phosphate-based detergents, soaps, and cleaners to minimize algae growth in nearby lakes and rivers. Phosphates can impair water quality and fish habitat.
  7. Avoid the construction of parking areas, patios, tennis courts or decks in the area of or over the leaching bed. The extra traffic or weight can crush pipes or compact the soil or fill material. Construction can also limit oxygen from getting into the soil or fill.
  8. Have an effluent filter installed in the septic tank to reduce the amount of solids entering the leaching bed and prevent clogs.
  9. Do not use snowmobiles over the leaching bed area in winter since this reduces the natural insulation of the bed provided by the snow cover.
  10. Avoid planting trees or shrubs on the leaching bed area since roots can clog the perforated pipes and shade the leaching bed area, thereby limiting evapotranspiration.
  11. Minimize grass watering around the leaching bed area. Extra water can reduce the bed’s ability to absorb and treat wastewater from the house.
  12. Exercise caution about waste flows from water treatment units, condensate furnace discharges and water softener backwashes. These substances can harm the septic system, especially in large quantities.
  13. Direct rainwater runoff from roofs, patios and driveways away from the leaching bed area and septic tank access ports to avoid system overload.

WHO DO YOU CALL ABOUT SEPTIC PROBLEMS?

If you suspect your septic system is not working, a firm that pumps septic tanks may be able to identify the nature of the problem and recommend further action. Alternatively, you can call a licensed company that installs or repairs septic systems.

In Ontario, septics installers must be licensed by the Province. These companies must have qualified people working for them who have passed an examination administered by the Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing. Before you hire someone to do work, make sure they have the right license. Most septic installers will be listed in the yellow pages section of your telephone book under “septics”.

If you suspect a problem with your system, you may also want to contact the local agency that enforces the Ontario Building Code requirements for septic systems. This may be either your municipal building department, the board of health or conservation authority.

If a septic system needs a significant repair or replacement, it will be one of these agencies that will have to issue a building permit and inspect the work once it is completed. You can find these agencies listed in the “blue pages” of the telephone book.

TANK INSPECTION AND CLEANING …

Having your septic tank inspected regularly is one of the least costly ways to avoid the inconvenience and expense of doing a major septic system repair. Inspections can determine if the outflow to the leaching bed is clogged because of a back-up in the tank, if too much solid or scum material is in the tank or whether the tank needs to be pumped more frequently. Because they contain deadly gases, septic tanks should only be inspected by firms specializing in this work.

How often you need to pump the tank depends on the size or capacity of the tank, the flow of wastewater entering the tank and the volume of solids in the wastewater stream. This should occur every 3 – 5 years, but factors can change during the life of the septic tank. More people living in the house or the addition of a high water use appliance can exceed the capacity of the existing tank, requiring more frequent pump outs.

Summer and early fall are the best times to pump out a septic tank. Pumping at this time of the year leaves sufficient time before winter for the tank to refill and bacterial activity to become re-established. As well, the ground around the tank will not be frozen (allowing easier access) and higher water tables that typically occur in the spring will have receded.

NEW SEPTICS TECHNOLOGIES

More and more companies are developing innovative ways to improve the effectiveness of on-site sewage disposal technology. Some of these systems add other parts to the traditional septic system, such as pump chambers to provide more regular or controlled flow of wastewater to the leaching bed area and oxygen- enrichment treatment units (sometimes called aerobic treatment units) which add oxygen to the wastewater to assist bacterial activity.

Advanced Treatment Systems — Alternatives to Conventional Septic Systems

Other types of pre-treatment units use different materials such as special sands, peat or other filter materials. These systems are becoming increasingly popular because of the quality of the wastewater they produce and because they can reduce the overall size of the septic system, especially the leaching bed area.

The effectiveness of these systems is only as good as the degree to which they are properly maintained and operated by the property owner. Many have parts that require regular lubrication, uninterrupted electrical connections, servicing and regular check-ups. Some systems require a maintenance agreement between the property owner and the manufacturer.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency published the “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual”. This 357-page manual provides up-to-date information on onsite wastewater treatment system siting, design, installation, maintenance, and replacement. In addition to providing a wealth of technical information on a variety of traditional and new system designs, the manual promotes a performance-based approach to selecting and designing OWTSs.  It can be downloaded Here: “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual.”

Septic System Cost – Ontario

Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System

Septic System Cost - Ontario

The Home Buyer’s Guide to Septic Systems

Septic System
Septic System

How the system works – Guide to Septic Systems

A typical system consists of an underground tank, a distribution line and a soil absorption drainage field.

Wastewater leaves the home through an underground pipe connected to the septic tank. Baffles in the septic tank slow the flow of the incoming wastewater and prevent sewage from flowing directly through the tank. Heavier solids settle to the bottom and accumulate as sludge.

The septic system is a natural sewage treatment and disposal system.

By natural we mean that it relies on bacteria to digest and clean the wastewater. Septic systems are biological systems and must have bacteria to work. The bacteria in the septic tank eat & digest the solids in the tank turning them into liquids and gases.

Raw household wastewater will quickly clog all but the most porous gravel formations. A septic tank is a sealed chamber, which conditions the wastewater to reduce clogging so that it may be more readily absorbed into the soil. The septic tank separates the settable and floatable solids, promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria necessary to decompose the solids, and provides storage for the resulting sludge and scum.

Where to install your septic system

Septic tanks should be located where they will not cause contamination of any well, spring or any other source of water supply. The septic tank should not be located closer than 10 feet from any building. The tank should not be found in swampy areas, nor in areas subject to flooding. Slopes greater than 25 percent will cause considerable difficulty in construction, and may slide once they become saturated with effluent. There must be no permanent cover placed over the septic tank or lateral lines.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Avoiding Problems

First things first: KNOW WHERE YOUR TANK IS!

External Care

  • Don’t drive over the system or compact the soil with heavy equipment
  • Don’t dig around it or build anything on top of it
  • Don’t cover the septic system with concrete
  • Divert roof drainage & downspouts away from it
  • Do not plant deep-rooted vegetation near the system, their roots may penetrate into it
  • Never plant a vegetable garden over the lateral field. Microbes from the effluent may travel through the soil & contaminate the crop

Internal Care

  • Keep your drains clean. If it is not biodegradable, it does not belong in your system.
  • No sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, cigarettes, cat litter, condoms, any packaging or cotton swabs.
  • No cooking oils. This can harden in the tank, build up and thus cause a blockage
  • No toxic chemicals, i.e., paints, pesticides, solvents or poisons. These can contaminate your ground water as well as kill required bacteria
  • Use low phosphorus laundry detergent. Liquid detergent is better than powders

Maintenance

Operation and maintenance of a septic tank are important. A system that is neglected or misused will have a shortened life expectancy.

Limit the usage of garbage disposals. This can double the amount of solids in your system.

Space out heavy water usage for things such as showers, washing the car and washing clothes. Up to 200 litres of water is discharged into your system with each load of laundry

Repair leaking valves and faucets. A tap leaking just one drop per second wastes about 10,000 litres of water per year. A silent leaking toilet can waste up to 20 times that amount

Fortunately, it’s easy to use water wisely throughout the house. Whether washing vegetables, cleaning dishes, brushing your teeth or shaving, use the plug and water in the sink to avoid leaving the taps running.

house-tool-belt

The biggest maintenance task is pumping the solids from the tank. After a few years, the solids that accumulate in the tank need to be removed and disposed of properly. If not removed, the solids will spill over into the drain field and clog the soil. With proper maintenance, a septic system can work efficiently for many years. Think of pumping your septic as you would to tuning up tour car. It is always wiser to do it before it stops working.

Many people often have chosen to use additives to eliminate the need to pump the tank although no additive has been proven effective. Some of the solids in the tank are sand, grit, plastic and other similar matter. No enzyme or bacteria can digest these. Other organic solids are not very digestible. Hence, they accumulate. Bacteria that are added must compete with bacteria that are adapted to living in your septic tank. These adapted bacteria have the home field advantage. The newly added organisms can’t compete. Enzymes are not living and cannot reproduce. Whatever is added to the tank is all that will ever be there; therefore the quantity of enzymes added are too low to be helpful.

Indications that there is a problem

Warning signs range from subtle to insufferable. The grass over the system may become unusually green or spongy to walk on. Toilets, showers and sinks might take longer to drain. Occasional sewage odors may become noticeable, often after a rainfall. Sometimes homeowners discover gray or black liquids surfacing in the yard or backing up from fixtures in the home. Whatever the problem may be, fix it fast!

What to do when there is a problem

Report any problems to your Township, before proceeding with repairs. Once the building department approval has been obtained, call a licensed contractor. Detail the full extent of the problem, giving specific details as to when you first noticed any symptoms.

Repairs can range from clearing a few lines to replacing entire drain fields and landfilling contaminated soil. Costs vary from a few hundred dollars to thousands.

The extent and cost of required repairs depend on how far you let the problem go.

Summer and early fall are the best times to pump out your septic system. This leaves time before winter, for the tank to refill and for bacterial action to become re-established. Also, the ground won’t be frozen, and the spring water table, which can create buoyancy problems for septic tanks, has receded. Particular care should be taken when pumping tanks made of lightweight materials such as polyethylene, fiberglass and steel.

When your tank is being pumped, it is a good time to inspect the baffles. These are important because they keep solids under control and out of the lateral lines

Never enter a septic tank. Toxic gases in the tank can cause death or injury. Never smoke or use an open flame near septic tank openings. Combustible gases such as methane may be present. Treat all contact with septic system components as if they were a biological hazard. Wash thoroughly with a water-bleach mixture after each contact.

Septic System Laws & Building Code

All septic systems in Ontario are regulated by the Ontario Building Code. The OBC requires that a permit is obtained for the construction, installation, extension, enlargement, or alteration of any on-site sewage disposal system, or any building additions may also require modifications to your site sewage disposal system.

Ontario Septic Code Explained

As of April 6, 1998, the rules for smaller on-site septic systems are covered by the OBC (Ontario Building Code). While these rules are put in place by the province of Ontario, local agencies such as municipal building departments, boards of health or conservation authorities are responsible for issuing permits and doing inspections.

The OBC includes regulations related to the operation and maintenance of septic systems requirements for servicing by qualified people, wastewater monitoring and sampling, septic tank pumps out, etc. If you have questions about the OBC requirements for new or existing septic systems, you should contact the septics enforcement in your area.

Alternative Sewage Systems

Sites where a conventional system is impractical require an alternative system. The initial cost of an alternative system may be higher, but they save you money in the long run.

Holding Tanks

Some on site systems are designed only to store wastewater, which is then pumped from the tank and trucked off site for treatment. Often used where septic systems cannot be accommodated, these holding tank systems depend on an alarm to warn when nearly full, and usually require an on-going contract with a pumping service.

Aerobic Systems

Several mechanical alternatives to septic systems are available on the market. These are active systems, using compressors or motors to introduce air into the treatment of wastewater. Most of these systems bubble air through wastewater, or use rotating discs to expose the sewage to air.

By contrast, a septic system, unless it uses a pump to discharge to the leaching bed, has no moving parts and requires no electricity.

Aerobic systems can provide a higher level of treatment than standard septic tanks. They also require lubrication, electrical connections and more frequent maintenance than conventional septics.

Some local health departments have been hesitant to approve these designs, because of problems that have arisen from improperly maintained systems; the same size drainage field may be required for an aerating system as for a standard septic system.

New Technology

These systems are improving as new technologies are further developed and demonstrated. Research into improved mechanical systems, better biological treatment media and systems using wetland or aquatic plants appears very promising.

Lagoon

Where clay content of the soil is very high, and the property is relatively large, a lagoon may be the best solution. A properly designed and maintained lagoon works by evaporating the liquid waste. A well-maintained lagoon is relatively free of odor.

Mound System

Where the clay content of the soil is high, or the groundwater is close to the surface, a mound system may be the answer. These systems work by placing the absorption laterals upon the ground surface and covering them with high permeable soil. Thus, most of the wastewater effluent is lost in evaporation and evapotranspiration.

Sand Filter

Where a very little area is available for the placement of laterals, or the bedrock is at or near the surface, a sand filter is a good choice. Sand filters work by forcing a measured dose of effluent through a bed of special sand, collecting the clear, odorless effluent, and then discharging it into a reduced size lateral or bed system. Many manufacturers provide prefabricated kits that may be installed by a very mechanically oriented homeowner. Sand filters can be expensive and require professional maintenance.

Living with water well & septic system

Drinking water from a well on your property is the solution many rural residents have decided upon. Other solutions such as bottled water, rural water districts, and hauling water may not be available or are cost-prohibitive. The rural water well is the most common solution. Rural water wells are unlike city water systems in that the town system provides water that is regularly tested for many contaminants on a regular schedule.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency published the “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual”. This 357-page manual provides up-to-date information on onsite wastewater treatment system siting, design, installation, maintenance, and replacement. In addition to providing a wealth of technical information on a variety of traditional and new system designs, the manual promotes a performance-based approach to selecting and designing OWTSs.  It can be downloaded Here: “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual.”

 

Septic System Cost – Ontario