Building Permit Drawings in Ontario: What You Need and Who Can Draw Them

Building Permit Drawings in Ontario: What You Actually Need (and Who Can Draw Them)
Nine times out of ten, the thing that holds up a permit is not the fee or the inspector – it is the drawings. The city cannot approve what it cannot read. A complete, scaled, code-compliant set sails through; a vague one comes back with a deficiency list and you start the wait over. Here is exactly what a permit drawing set has to include, who is allowed to draw it (and when you can draw your own), and the missing details that get sets bounced. We have prepared and submitted these across Simcoe County and Georgian Bay for 45 years, so this is what the counter actually wants – not a brochure.
Two ways to get a permit-ready drawing set
Have us draw the whole thing, or do it yourself with the step-by-step PDF. Either way, you skip the deficiency loop.
We draw your permit set
Drawn by a BCIN-registered designer, with engineering arranged where it is needed. We can also review a set you already have before you file. Anywhere in Ontario.
- The full set: site plan, floor plans, elevations, sections, and details
- Structural notes and heat-loss / energy paperwork sorted
- We pre-check it against your town’s submission standard
- 45 years, 300-plus homes – drawings the counter does not argue with
The Ontario Building Permit Bible
Everything a builder does to coordinate a permit – including exactly what each drawing must show – in one plain-English playbook. Good anywhere in Ontario.
- The complete-drawing-set checklist, sheet by sheet
- Who to hire to draw it, in what order, and what to pay
- The complete-application checklist, so it does not get bounced
- How to never fail an inspection – and the mistakes that cost the most
Need to know which Code clause a detail has to meet?
Drawings have to satisfy the Ontario Building Code, and the Code is big. Ask our OBC Code Navigator your exact question – the first two are free, and you can grab the OBC PDF there too. Faster than reading 800 pages to find one clause.
What “permit drawings” actually are
Permit drawings are the legal description of what you intend to build, drawn to scale so a plans examiner can confirm it meets the Building Code and your zoning before a shovel goes in the ground. They are not the same as the pretty 3D renderings a designer shows you, and they are not the rough sketch your contractor drew on a napkin. They are working drawings – dimensioned, labelled, and detailed enough that someone who has never seen your house can understand exactly what is being built and check it against the rules.
The single biggest reason permits stall is an incomplete or unclear set. The examiner is paid to find what is missing; an incomplete drawing gives them an easy reason to send the whole thing back. So the goal is not “drawings” – it is a complete set that answers the questions before they are asked.
The drawing set, sheet by sheet
A typical house, addition, or accessory-building permit set includes most of the following. The bigger and more structural the job, the more of these you need – and the more detail on each.
Site plan
Your lot drawn to scale: property lines, setbacks to every lot line, the existing house and any existing structures (garage, shed, deck, septic), and the proposed work. This is where zoning gets checked – setbacks, lot coverage, height. On many lots the site plan has to be based on a real survey. How to read your survey and the zoning decoder both feed straight into this sheet.
Floor plans
Each floor, drawn to scale, with room names and uses, dimensions, ceiling heights, plumbing fixtures, smoke and CO alarm locations, window and door sizes and locations, stairs, guards and handrails, and beam, lintel and joist sizes. This is the sheet the examiner spends the most time on.
Elevations
Every exterior side – front, rear, both sides – showing building height, rooflines, cladding, windows and doors, decks and stairs, and grade. Elevations are how the city confirms the height and the look against the zoning by-law.
Building sections
A vertical “slice” through the building showing the assemblies from footing to roof: foundation, framing, insulation values, vapour barrier, floor and ceiling heights, and how the stairs and decks connect. Pretty floor plans with no sections is the classic incomplete set – the examiner needs to see the wall, not just the room.
Structural details
Beams, big openings, unusual foundations, retaining walls – these need engineered details, sized and specified, often stamped by a professional engineer. “We will figure out the beam on site” is not a drawing. See when you need an engineer.
Mechanical & energy
For a new home or major addition, expect HVAC / ventilation layouts, a heat-loss / heat-gain calculation, and the SB-12 energy-efficiency compliance package. On rural lots add the septic design. Heat-loss is its own paperwork – we sort it as part of the set, or it can be handled through OntarioHeatLoss.ca.
Not every job needs every sheet. A small interior reno may be a floor plan and a section; a new home needs all of it plus energy and mechanical. The principle is the same: if it is not on the drawing, the examiner treats it as not existing.
Who is allowed to draw your permit set?
In Ontario, the person who prepares permit drawings usually has to be qualified under the Building Code. Since 2006, most permit drawings must carry the BCIN (Building Code Identification Number) of a registered designer, or be prepared by a licensed architect or professional engineer. Here is who can sign your set:
A BCIN-registered designer
The most common route for houses, additions, garages, and suites. A BCIN designer is registered and qualified with the Province in the right category for your project, and puts their BCIN and registration on the drawings. This is what we provide.
An architect or engineer
Larger, more complex, or heavily structural buildings often need a licensed architect (OAA) or professional engineer (PEO) to design and stamp the drawings. Even on a house, the structural portion (beams, foundations) is frequently engineered and stamped.
You – the homeowner (limited)
The Building Code includes an exemption that lets an owner prepare drawings for their own home in some cases, and some municipalities accept owner-prepared drawings for simple work. You declare the exemption on the application. But the bar does not drop: the drawings still have to be scaled, complete, and code-compliant, and you are the one on the hook if they are wrong.
Not your contractor’s napkin
A builder’s sketch is a great way to communicate intent, but it is not a permit drawing unless the person who drew it is qualified to submit it. Plenty of permits stall because the “drawings” were never submittable in the first place.
The details that get a set bounced
Most deficiency letters are predictable. If you only fix these, you will avoid the majority of resubmissions:
- No scale, or inconsistent scale – an examiner cannot check dimensions they cannot trust.
- Floor plans but no section – the most common gap; the assemblies have to be shown.
- Setbacks not dimensioned on the site plan – zoning cannot be confirmed, so the file stalls.
- Missing structural detail – a beam or opening with no size, span, or connection.
- No energy / heat-loss package on a new build – SB-12 and heat-loss are not optional.
- Smoke / CO alarms and egress not shown – life-safety items have to appear on the plan.
- Drawings reference something that is not on the sheet – “see detail 5” with no detail 5.
- Old or wrong survey – the site plan is built on a survey that does not match the lot.
For the full list and how to clear them fast, see the most common permit rejections and fixes. Once your set is clean, the next step is the building permit application itself – the forms, fees, and what makes an application “complete.”
How drawings fit the rest of the permit
Drawings are one link in the chain. They sit between zoning (checked on the site plan) and the application package (the forms and fees that go with the set). Get the order right and nothing doubles back on you:
Confirm zoning first
Setbacks, coverage, and height decide what you can even draw. Start with the zoning decoder – drawing first and checking zoning later is how people end up redesigning.
Then produce the complete set
Site plan, floor plans, elevations, sections, structural and energy details – drawn by someone qualified to submit them.
Then file the application
The drawings ride along with the forms, fees, and declarations. See the permit application guide and what counts as a complete application.
Clear any deficiencies, then build to the approved set
Build what was approved; changes get handled as revisions, not surprises. And do not be tempted to start early – here is what happens if you build without a permit.
Related permit guides on this site
Building permit drawings: frequently asked questions
What drawings do I need for a building permit in Ontario?
For a typical house, addition, or accessory building: a scaled site plan with property lines and setbacks, floor plans with dimensions and room uses, exterior elevations, and at least one building section showing the assemblies. Structural work adds engineered details, and a new home adds heat-loss and SB-12 energy documents plus mechanical layouts. Small interior jobs may only need a floor plan and a section. The rule of thumb: the more structural or the bigger the build, the more sheets and detail you need.
Do I need a BCIN designer to draw my permit plans?
Usually yes. Since 2006, most permit drawings in Ontario must carry the BCIN of a registered designer, or be prepared by a licensed architect or professional engineer. There is a limited Building Code exemption that can let an owner prepare drawings for their own home, and some municipalities accept owner-prepared drawings for simple work – but the drawings still have to be scaled, complete, and code-compliant, and you carry the responsibility if they are wrong.
Can I draw my own building permit plans as a homeowner?
In some cases, yes. The Building Code includes an exemption that allows an owner to design their own house, and you declare that exemption on the application. For a simple, non-structural project some building departments will accept a clean, scaled, owner-prepared set. But being allowed to draw them does not lower the standard – the set has to meet the same Code and zoning requirements, and a missing detail still bounces. For anything structural or a new build, a qualified designer usually saves more than they cost.
How much do building permit drawings cost in Ontario?
It varies widely by project size and complexity. A small deck or shed set is at the low end; a garage or basement-apartment set is in the middle; a full custom-home set with structural, mechanical, and energy documents is the most. The fee is not just drafting – it is making sure the set passes review the first time, which is where the real savings are. Tell us what you are building through the “Get your plans drawn” button and we will give you a real number.
Do permit drawings need to be stamped by an engineer?
Not the whole set – but the structural portions often do. Beams carrying significant load, large openings, unusual or deep foundations, and retaining walls are commonly designed and stamped by a professional engineer, even when a BCIN designer prepares the rest of the drawings. Whether you need a stamp depends on the structure, not on whether it is a house. If you are unsure, that is exactly the kind of thing a quick review will tell you.
What is the difference between permit drawings and construction drawings?
Permit drawings are the set the city reviews to confirm Code and zoning compliance – enough detail to approve the build. Construction drawings (or “working drawings”) are the fuller set the trades build from, with finishes, schedules, and connection details. There is a lot of overlap, and on a house the permit set and construction set are often nearly the same document. The renderings a designer shows you to sell the look are neither – they are not submittable.
Why did the city reject my drawings?
Almost always because something was missing or unclear, not because the design was bad. The usual culprits: no section to show the assemblies, setbacks not dimensioned on the site plan, a structural element with no size or span, missing energy or heat-loss documents on a new build, life-safety items (egress, smoke and CO alarms) not shown, or the drawings referencing a detail that is not on the sheet. The fix is to add the missing detail, label it, and resubmit – not to argue. See our common rejections and fixes guide.
Do I need a survey for my permit drawings?
Often, yes – especially for additions, new structures, or anything close to a lot line, where the site plan has to be based on an accurate survey to prove the setbacks. Some simple interior projects do not need one. If you have an existing survey, bring it; if your lot has changed or the survey is very old, the city may want an updated one. Building a site plan on a wrong or outdated survey is a classic reason a file gets sent back.
Can you draw my permit set for me?
Yes – that is one of the things we do. We prepare complete, BCIN-registered permit sets for everything from decks and garages to garden suites, additions, and full custom homes, arrange engineering where it is needed, sort the heat-loss and energy paperwork, and pre-check the set against your town’s submission standard before you file. We have done it across Simcoe County and Georgian Bay for 45 years. Use the “Get your plans drawn” button and tell us what you are building.
Note: this is general guidance, not a ruling on your project. Drawing requirements, designer-qualification rules, and what counts as complete vary by municipality and by the specifics of your build. Confirm with your municipality – or have us draw or review the set and we will confirm it for you.
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