Raising a Cottage and Installing an ICF Foundation in Ontario: A Professional Guide

Raising a Cottage and Installing an ICF Foundation – What You Need To Know

Upgrading an old cottage with a new foundation is a major project that requires careful planning and professional execution. This guide walks through lifting a cottage, removing the old foundation, installing a new Insulated Concrete Form (ICF) foundation, and pouring a new concrete floor (with an option for radiant heating) – all within the context of Ontario, Canada. We’ll also cover typical costs, risks and challenges, and Ontario-specific code and permit considerations. Each section is organized for easy navigation, with clear steps and best practices used by professionals (no DIY approaches here).

Preparing for a Cottage Lift (Planning and Preliminaries)

Before any physical work begins, thorough planning and preparation are essential:

  • Structural Assessment: Professionals start with an engineering assessment of the cottage’s structure. They ensure the building can withstand the lifting process (e.g. checking for rot in sill beams or weak joints) and plan reinforcement if needed. If the cottage is very old or fragile, engineers may recommend additional bracing of walls and frames to prevent damage during the lift.
  • Site Preparation: The area around the cottage is cleared. Utilities (water, electricity, gas, septic) are disconnected or rerouted as necessary. For example, if plumbing or wiring runs through the foundation, those connections must be safely cut off before lifting. A temporary utility plan (like alternative power sources or holding tanks) might be set up for use during the project.
  • Permits and Approvals: In Ontario, a building permit is required for raising a structure and replacing a foundation. The project plans (usually prepared by a structural engineer or qualified designer) must be submitted to the local building department for approval. The plans will detail how the house will be lifted, the new foundation design (including footings, wall specs, and reinforcement), and any changes to the structure. It’s crucial to check with the municipality and, if applicable, the local conservation authority (for waterfront properties) for any additional requirements. All work must comply with the Ontario Building Code (OBC) and local zoning – for instance, adding a full basement could affect the building’s height or required setbacks.

Best Practice: Professional house lifters and foundation contractors often coordinate with engineers and permit officials on the owner’s behalf. This ensures the lifting plan and new foundation meet safety standards and code requirements from the start. In Ontario, foundations generally must extend below the frost line (~4 ft or 1.2 m) to prevent frost heaving​, so the new footing design will account for this depth. If the cottage is being converted from a pier foundation to a full basement, the plans may also need to include footing drains (perimeter weeping tiles) and damp-proofing, as required by OBC for habitable basements.

Lifting the Cottage: Professional Methods and Best Practices

Once planning is complete, the first major stage is lifting the cottage off its old foundation. This is a complex operation that should be done by experienced house-moving professionals. Key methods and steps include:

  1. Installing Temporary Support Beams: The lifting crew will slide long steel I-beams under the cottage. Typically, openings are made in the foundation walls (or the house’s skirting) to insert these beams. In some cases, floor joists are reinforced or sistered with additional lumber so they can distribute the weight to the steel beams. The beams are placed perpendicular to the floor joists or main structure, effectively taking over the load of the house.
  2. Hydraulic Jacking and Cribbing: Heavy-duty hydraulic jacks are positioned under the steel beams (often at multiple points). The lifting is done slowly and evenly – usually raising the house only a few inches at a time, then adding cribbing (stacked timber blocks) under the beams to hold the gain, then resetting the jacks. This leapfrog process of jack-up and crib ensures the structure is always supported. Over hours (or days for very large structures), the house is jacked to the desired height. Professionals describe lifting a house without it falling apart as “an absolute science,” requiring subtle, incremental raises and careful monitoring​. In one Ontario cottage lift, the structure was raised 15 feet and set on two giant steel beams and four sturdy timber crib towers(imagine the house sitting atop a stack of giant Jenga blocks)​. This height was exceptional (to create a new basement), but most lifts are just high enough to allow working room for foundation construction (often 3-8 feet of lift).
  3. Ensuring Stability and Safety: As the house is lifted, the crew constantly checks that it remains level. Dozens of points are measured to avoid twisting the frame. The best practice is to lift no more than about 6 inches at a time per jack station and to distribute the lifting evenly. The timber crib stacks are built up in tandem with the jacking so that at any pause, the house is securely supported on the cribs (not solely on the jacks). Workers will not go under the house unless it’s resting safely on cribbing. Safety is paramount – the area is kept clear, and only the trained crew is allowed near the jacking operation.
  4. Securing the Raised Structure: Once the final height is reached, the house is typically left resting on the cribbing stacks and steel beams for the duration of the foundation work. The jacks are removed or left idle as backup, and the structure is monitored over the first days to ensure everything remains stable. At this stage, the house is essentially “floating” above its original location, creating an open workspace beneath.

Professional Insight: Lifting companies in Ontario often use specialized synchronized hydraulic jacking systems that can lift multiple points at once, controlled by one technician to keep the building level. They will also typically have insurance and contingency plans given the risks. It’s common to hear that house lifting costs (just for the lifting process, not including new foundation) range from roughly $15,000 to $25,000 CAD for a standard-sized cottage. This cost covers the crew, hydraulic jack system, steel beams, and typically the placement of the cribbing. Very large or complex projects (or lifts to extreme heights) could cost more. In one discussion, a reputable Ontario contractor estimated about $10K–$12K just to lift and re-pier a small 20′×30′ cottage, while others noted $15K+ is reasonable for the lift in a larger full-foundation project.

Removing the Old Foundation (Block Walls and Concrete Floor)

With the cottage safely elevated and supported, attention turns to the demolition and removal of the existing foundation(often concrete block piers or walls, and any concrete slab or floor that exists). Professionals handle this step methodically:

  • Debris Protection: First, the crew may lay down tarps or plywood in the work area to catch debris and protect the ground. They also ensure that falling rubble won’t damage the structure above – for example, by propping up temporary sheets of plywood along the underside of the house if needed.
  • Masonry Takedown: If the cottage sat on block walls or piers, those masonry units are typically knocked out using sledgehammers or jackhammers. Starting from the top course, workers remove blocks layer by layer. Often, gravity helps once lower sections are removed – upper blocks will fall once their support is gone. In tight spaces, they might break the blocks into pieces for easier removal. All rubble is carried or wheelbarrowed out from under the cottage and piled for disposal.
  • Breaking the Concrete Floor: Many older cottages have a thin concrete slab or pad as a floor (or just part of the area). This slab must be broken up and removed. Contractors use jackhammers or concrete saws to cut the slab into manageable sections. The pieces are then pried up and hauled out. If the slab was reinforced with wire mesh, they cut and pull that out as well.
  • Excavation for New Footings/Basement: Once the above-grade foundation elements are gone, excavation equipment (if access allows) or manual digging will be used to reach the required depth for the new foundation footings. In Ontario, this means digging below frost line (approx. 4 ft deep) unless the new design is a shallow foundation with frost protection. Usually, for a full basement or deep crawlspace, a mini-excavator can be driven under the raised house to excavate soil. Alternatively, digging might be done from the sides if the house is high enough or if sections of the grade are open. Excavation includes not just removing soil to create space for footings and taller walls, but also clearing out around the perimeter for working room. The crew will typically over-excavate a bit to allow workers to stand and build forms or ICF blocks around the outside of where the new walls will be.
  • Old Foundation Disposal: All the broken concrete and block debris must be disposed of. Dump trucks or bins are filled with the rubble for hauling away to a recycler or landfill. Disposal fees are factored into the project cost. Some contractors also crush and reuse old concrete as fill (if it’s clean and suitable), but this must be in line with engineering guidance.

Professional Tip: Care is taken not to disturb or undermine any temporary supports during excavation. Often, the cribbing towers for the house are placed just outside the line of the new foundation, or on interior high points, so excavation can proceed around them. If any temporary post is in the way of a new wall, the plan will include moving that support once portions of the new foundation are built enough to take load.

This stage can be labor-intensive. The cost for demolition and excavation work in Ontario will depend on complexity – a straightforward teardown of a small block crawlspace might be only a few thousand dollars (plus disposal fees), whereas digging out a full basement under a house could be $10,000 or more with equipment time. Often, foundation contractors bundle this removal and excavation cost into the foundation installation package. For example, the price of an ICF foundation (discussed next) usually includes the site excavation and prep​. Always get clarity from the contractor on what’s included.

Installing the New ICF Foundation Underneath

With the site clear and excavated, the core of the project is constructing a new foundation using Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). An ICF foundation consists of modular foam blocks that stack together and are then filled with concrete, creating a steel-reinforced concrete wall that stays insulated. Here’s how professionals install an ICF foundation under a raised cottage:

  1. Footings Construction: Just as with any foundation, solid concrete footings are poured first. Trenches are dug at the correct depth and width around the perimeter (and under any planned interior load-bearing posts). Forms are set if needed, and rebar is placed according to the engineering specs (usually two or more horizontal rebars in a strip footing). The concrete for footings is poured and allowed to cure for a short period. In some cases, if the soil is very stable, pre-cast footing pads or an enlarged slab edge is used, but typical practice is poured concrete footings below frost depth. Inspection: An Ontario building inspector will usually check the footing forms and rebar before the pour, as part of permit compliance. After pouring, the footing must reach sufficient strength before building the wall forms on it (often a few days).
  2. Setting ICF Blocks: Once footings are ready, the insulated concrete form blocks are brought in. These blocks are like large, hollow Lego pieces made of rigid foam (expanded polystyrene). They interlock as they are stacked to create the shape of the foundation walls. Professionals will snap a chalk line or otherwise mark the exact wall layout on the footings, then begin stacking the first course of ICF blocks along the lines. Subsequent courses are stacked in a running bond pattern (staggered joints) to maximize strength. The foam blocks are lightweight, which makes it relatively quick work to carry and place them. As blocks are stacked, plastic ties built into the forms hold the inner and outer foam panels together and provide slots for rebar. Openings for windows (if a full basement with egress windows) or access vents (for a crawlspace) are boxed out during the stacking, and any required beam pockets or service penetrations can be planned at this stage as well.
  3. Reinforcing and Bracing: As the ICF blocks go up course by course, workers insert steel reinforcing bars (rebar) vertically and horizontally inside the forms per the engineer’s design. Typically, horizontal rebar is placed in every second or third course of block, and vertical rebars are set into the footings and tied in as the wall rises. The OBC has specific requirements for reinforcement of ICF foundation walls (e.g. minimum rebar sizes and spacing based on wall height and soil pressure) ​buildingcode.online. After reaching the full wall height (commonly 8 feet for a basement), the crew installs a bracing system. This usually involves vertical bracing frames attached to the forms (which also serve as scaffolding for the workers during the pour). The bracing ensures the walls are plumb and won’t shift when the concrete is placed.
  4. Pouring the Concrete Walls: With forms and rebar in place and braced, the next step is to pour concrete into the ICF forms. A pump truck is typically used to place the concrete because it can carefully control the flow into the tall forms. The concrete is usually a specific mix (often 25 MPa or higher for foundations, with small aggregate if using narrow forms) and is poured in lifts – e.g. filling the wall halfway around, then going up to the top – to avoid excessive pressure at the bottom. Workers will use internal vibrators or simply tap the forms to eliminate air pockets and ensure the concrete fills all voids. It’s crucial to avoid overfilling or pouring too fast, which could burst a form seam. Done correctly, the concrete flows into all corners and around rebar, creating a solid wall inside the foam shell. Any anchor bolts or anchor straps that need to be embedded for the future connection of the house are placed into the wet concrete at the top of the walls (commonly, pressure-treated sill plates will be anchored to the new wall later to secure the cottage). The concrete is then left to cure. In the Cottage Life project example, after the concrete foundation was placed, the crew had to wait about 10 days for it to cure sufficiently before the house could be lowered onto it​.
  5. Waterproofing and Drainage: Once the concrete has cured, the new ICF foundation walls are treated with waterproofing on the outside. Professionals in Ontario commonly apply a damp-proofing membrane or coating on the below-grade portions of the foundation (for example, a peel-and-stick bitumen membrane, or a dimpled drainage board). ICF foam is actually convenient to waterproof – materials can be applied directly to the foam exterior​. Additionally, a perimeter drain (weeping tile) is installed at the footing level, leading to a sump pit or daylight if grading allows, to channel groundwater away – this is critical for Ontario basements due to wet conditions and is generally required by code. If the cottage is near a lake or in a high water table area, extra care is taken for drainage (like adding a sump pump).
  6. Backfilling: After waterproofing, the outside excavated areas are backfilled in layers. Usually, clear stone or gravel is used immediately around the weeping tile and up alongside the foundation to promote drainage, then soil is filled in. The backfill is done carefully to avoid damaging the new walls – the bracing often stays on until a certain amount of backfill is placed. The fill is compacted in layers to reduce future settling. If the project included creating a full-height basement, the grade might be re-shaped and new exterior access (like digging for a basement walkout or new steps) might be part of the plan.

At this stage, the cottage is still sitting on cribbing and beams, but now a brand-new foundation sits beneath it, ready to accept the structure. The final steps will be to tie the two together.

Cost Considerations: The cost of installing an ICF foundation in Ontario can vary with size and complexity. For a typical home-sized foundation (say 1000 sq. ft. footprint with 8-foot walls), estimates range widely. One industry source estimates $20,700 to $38,000 CAD for an ICF foundation (materials and labor) for an average project​. This usually includes the ICF blocks, concrete, rebar, and labor to build and pour, as well as excavation and backfill. In Ontario, material costs might be a bit higher; ICF blocks might run around $7–$9 per square foot of wall area, rebar and concrete another ~$10+ per sq.ft. of wall, plus labor and other supplies​. All-in-all, ICF foundations tend to cost slightly more than poured concrete walls (perhaps 5%–10% more​foxblocks.com), but they include insulation and can save time. If the new foundation is a deep basement with taller walls, extra engineering or stronger concrete mixes may add cost. It’s wise to get detailed quotes – some Ontario foundation contractors price by linear foot of wall or by the square foot of floor area. As a rough example, if your cottage is small (e.g., 20′×30′ footprint), the foundation installation (excluding the lift) might be on the order of $30k–$50k. Larger cottages (or higher-end ICF products) will scale up from there.

Pouring the New Concrete Floor (with Optional Radiant Heating)

With new foundation walls in place, the project now involves constructing the new floor inside the foundation. There are two common scenarios: a crawlspace (in which case a thin slab or even just a vapor barrier and gravel might be used), or a full basement floor slab. We’ll focus on the full concrete floor slab, as the question notes adding a concrete floor and possibly radiant heating:

  • Preparing the Base: Inside the foundation, the ground is leveled and any remaining loose soil from excavation is removed. A layer of crushed stone (gravel) is placed throughout the floor area to create a stable base and help drainage under the slab. This gravel layer might be 4–6 inches thick, compacted flat. If plumbing lines or sump pits need to be installed (for a future bathroom or for the perimeter drain outlet), those are roughed in at this stage – trenches are dug in the gravel for any pipes, which are then covered.
  • Insulation and Vapor Barrier: In Ontario, the building code and good practice call for under-slab insulation, especially if the slab will be heated. Rigid foam insulation boards (often 2″ extruded polystyrene, R-10) are laid on the gravel across the floor area. This insulation prevents heat loss into the ground and also avoids cold floors. On top of the insulation (or directly on gravel if not insulated), a thick plastic vapor barrier sheet is laid to stop ground moisture. The vapor barrier (typically 6-mil poly) is overlapped and taped at seams and run up the walls slightly. It’s important for controlling moisture and soil gases (Ontario now often requires a sub-slab depressurization rough-in for radon gas in new constructions – a perforated pipe in the gravel connected to a vent stack).
  • Installing Radiant Heat Tubing (Optional): If hydronic radiant floor heating is planned, this is the time to install it. PEX tubing circuits are laid out across the floor area in a serpentine pattern, usually tied to a wire mesh or clipped to the insulation boards. The tubing is kept at a consistent spacing (commonly 6–12 inches apart) to ensure even heat. The circuits are then pressure-tested to make sure there are no leaks before the pour. If no radiant heat is planned, the crew might still put welded wire mesh or rebar in the slab for reinforcement, depending on engineering specs.
  • Pouring and Finishing the Slab: Ready-mix concrete is poured onto the prepared base (over the vapor barrier and insulation, encasing the radiant tubes if present). Typically a 4″ thick slab is standard for a basement floor. The concrete is spread and leveled with rakes and straightedges (screeded). If radiant tubing is present, the crew must be careful not to dislodge or damage the tubes while spreading concrete. After initial setting, the slab is troweled smooth – for a basement, a power trowel may be used to get a nice finish if it’s going to be a usable space. Control joints may be cut into the slab to control cracking, or they might pour it in sections with intentional breaks. The slab is then left to cure. It’s usually walkable within 24-48 hours and fully cured in about 28 days, but construction can often continue on it after a few days with caution.
  • Curing and Protection: Curing compounds or simply keeping the slab damp (covering with plastic) may be done to ensure the concrete cures strong without surface cracking. If it’s summertime, curing is critical to avoid the slab drying too fast; in winter, heating or insulating blankets might be needed to ensure the slab cures and doesn’t freeze.

Radiant Heating Note: Hydronic radiant floors are a popular upgrade for cottages, as they provide efficient, even heating. The installation cost in Ontario can add roughly $5–$10 per square foot of floor for the tubing, manifolds, and insulation (not including the boiler or heat source) – for example, $5k–$10k extra for a 1,000 sq. ft. basement is a ballpark. Once installed and the slab poured, the tubing will later be connected to a heating system (like a propane boiler or electric water heater with appropriate controls). The result is a warm floor which can turn the new basement into comfortable living space year-round.

Costs: The concrete floor pour itself is usually a smaller part of the budget. Expect around $7–$15 per square foot for a finished concrete slab in Ontario (lower end for plain slab, higher if including reinforcement, insulation, radiant tube labor, finishing, etc.). For example, a 800 sq. ft. basement might cost on the order of $6,000–$10,000 for a new insulated slab with radiant heating pipes, done by professionals. This would include materials (concrete, insulation, poly, rebar/tubes) and labor to form, pour and finish.

Lowering and Reattaching the Cottage

Once the new ICF foundation walls and floor slab are completed and have achieved sufficient strength, the house can be lowered onto the new foundation:

  • The lifting crew returns to carefully reverse the jacking procedure. They will remove some cribbing and use the jacks to lower the house in small increments onto the prepared sill plate of the new foundation. A common approach is to install treated wood sill plates (usually 2×6 or 2×8 lumber) on top of the new concrete walls, anchored with bolts to the concrete. These plates have been shimmed or leveled as needed and align with the house structure. As the house comes down, the goal is for the bottom of the house (the rim joists or beams) to gently touch down evenly onto these sill plates.
  • The process is essentially the reverse of lifting: the house is lowered a bit onto jacks, cribbing is removed in steps, and the jacks gradually let it down fully. This requires just as much care to keep the building level and prevent jolts. The crew will continuously monitor all sides to ensure the house is settling correctly onto the new foundation. It’s a moment of high precision – one professional described it like docking a shuttle to a space station​, requiring skillful alignment.
  • Once the house is seated, it is secured to the new foundation. This typically means attaching the wood framing to the sill plate and foundation: anchor bolts that were cast in the concrete are tightened, or steel straps/connectors are nailed to tie the framing into the concrete. This step ensures the house won’t shift off the foundation in high winds or over time. Any gaps between the old structure and the new foundation (for example, if the house’s frame isn’t perfectly flat) are shimmed and sealed.
  • Finally, the remaining equipment (jacks, beams) is removed. The openings made in the siding or foundation for the beams are patched up. The house is now sitting permanently on its brand-new ICF foundation.

At this stage, the heavy construction work is done, but there will be follow-up tasks: reconnecting utilities (plumbers and electricians will run new lines as needed through the foundation to the house), potentially finishing the interior of the basement (insulating any exposed areas, framing walls, etc.), and landscaping or repairing any disturbances on the lot.

From a cost perspective, the lowering is usually included in the lifting contract (the $15–25k range mentioned earlier includes coming back to set the house down). After lowering, additional work like attaching utilities and finishing could add several thousand dollars more, depending on complexity.

Typical Professional Charges and Pricing Breakdown in Ontario

Every project will differ, but here is a breakdown of typical professional charges for raising a cottage and replacing its foundation in Ontario, based on industry data and contractor feedback:

  • House Lifting (Jacking Up and Later Lowering): Cost: Approximately $15,000 – $30,000 for an average-size cottage. This covers the house moving company’s work: installing beams, jacking the structure, supporting it for the duration, and lowering it after the new foundation is done. Larger homes or complicated lifts (for example, very uneven terrain or a partial lift/shift) can cost more. (Source: RenoQuotes notes $15–25K for a standard lift; Ontario contractors quoted ~$10–15K for small cottages just to lift and level.)
  • Foundation Removal & Excavation: Cost: Roughly $5,000 – $15,000, highly dependent on the amount of concrete to remove and how much digging is required. This usually includes demolition of existing piers/walls, breaking the old slab, and digging for new footings and greater depth. If a full basement is being excavated where there wasn’t one, costs trend to the higher side due to the volume of soil removal and disposal. If only a shallow crawlspace is needed, costs would be lower. (Often, this is built into the foundation contractor’s price – for instance, an ICF foundation quote might include excavation/backfill.)
  • New ICF Foundation Installation: Cost: Approximately $30,000 – $60,000 for most projects (some could be less for a small crawlspace, or more for a large full basement). This range includes the materials (ICF blocks, concrete, rebar, waterproofing) and labor to build an insulated foundation, plus foundation contractor overhead and profit. According to Fox Blocks, a typical ICF foundation averages around $29K​foxblocks.com, but Ontario’s prices can fluctuate. A simple crawlspace (shorter walls) might be on the lower end; a full basement with 8-foot insulated walls and maybe some custom features (openings, beam pockets) would be on the higher end. Remember that this also accounts for things like forming and pouring footings, damp-proofing, and installing drains.
  • Concrete Floor Slab (with optional radiant heat): Cost: Generally $7,000 – $15,000 for an average basement area. On a per-square-foot basis, unheated slabs might be ~$8/sq.ft in Ontario, and heated slabs (with tubing, insulation, etc.) could be ~$12–$15/sq.ft. So, a 800 sq.ft. basement floor with insulation and radiant tubes might cost around $10k. This includes gravel prep, insulation, vapor barrier, tubing install, concrete pour and finish. If the project only requires a crawlspace slab (which might be just a thin “rat slab” or even just poly + gravel), that cost would be much less.
  • Other Costs: Don’t forget permit fees (perhaps $1,000 or so, depending on municipality and project size), engineering/design fees (maybe $2,000–$5,000 for stamped plans and inspections by an engineer for the lifting and new foundation), and utility reconnections or upgrades. If the cottage’s plumbing, septic, or electrical systems need modifications for the new basement, licensed trades will charge for that work separately. Also, if adding features like basement insulation and drywall, interior framing, windows, exterior waterproofing upgrades, sump pump installation, etc., those will each have costs. In some cases, a general contractor will manage the entire project for a percentage fee.

For context, Ontario contractors have indicated that a complete foundation replacement project can run in the hundreds of thousands for a large home, but for a small cottage you might be looking at roughly $100,000 to $150,000+ overall. In one forum, contractors quoted about $120K to $150K for lifting a 440 sq.ft. cottage and putting in an insulated crawlspace. That included everything (permits, lifting, new foundation, addition footings, etc.). Each project is unique, so these figures are only guidelines – obtaining detailed quotes from professionals is essential for an accurate budget.

Common Risks and Challenges in Raising a Cottage and Replacing its Foundation

Undertaking a cottage lift and foundation replacement comes with several risks and challenges. Professionals work to mitigate these, but owners should be aware of them:

  • Structural Risks to the Building: Lifting a house can put stress on the structure. If not done evenly or if the building is fragile, things can go wrong. Common issues include cracked plaster or drywall, doors or windows jamming or breaking, and even structural framing members cracking. One source humorously (and accurately) noted that potential problems when jacking a house include “windows shattering, door frames twisting, plumbing and electrical being stretched and coming loose or snapping.”​ reddit.com Professionals mitigate this by going very slowly and often recommending removal of glass windows or making other preparations (e.g., flexing slack into wiring) if a big lift is planned. Still, minor damage (like drywall cracks) is fairly common and can be repaired afterward.
  • Weather and Site Conditions: In Ontario, weather can be a significant challenge. Heavy rain can flood an open excavation or cause soil collapse around a dig. Cold weather (frost) can complicate concrete curing and excavation (frozen ground). Professionals plan the timing – for instance, trying to pour concrete in the warmer months or tenting and heating the area if doing winter work. Weather delays are possible, and a raised house on cribbing is more exposed to wind, so monitoring and securing the site is critical. Sudden storms when a house is lifted could be dangerous, so crews often schedule lifts with a close eye on the forecast.
  • Soil and Water Issues: Many Ontario cottages are near lakes or on lots with a high water table. Excavating for a new basement may encounter groundwater or spring runoff, requiring sump pumps on site during construction to keep the area dry. There’s also a risk of soil instability – if the soil is sandy or loose, cribbing must be set on secure pads to prevent sinking, and excavation might require shoring to prevent cave-ins. Unknowns like big boulders or bedrock can also be encountered when digging, which might necessitate blasting or redesign (which adds cost and complexity).
  • Logistics and Access: Getting heavy equipment and materials in place at a remote or tight cottage lot can be tricky. Large hydraulic jacks and steel beams need clearance. If the cottage is in a tight neighborhood or on an island, special equipment like barges or cranes might be required. Limited road access might limit the size of concrete trucks, etc., which can introduce challenges (like needing pump trucks or scheduling many small concrete loads).
  • Delays and Coordination: This type of project has multiple phases and teams (lifters, excavators, foundation crew, concrete finishers, plumbers, etc.). Coordination is crucial. Any delay in one phase (for example, permit holdups, inspection scheduling, or concrete delivery issues) can idle the entire project. Professionals try to schedule things tightly: for example, lifting on week 1, excavation and footings week 2, foundation walls week 3, etc. – but delays happen. A common challenge is waiting for concrete to cure – one cannot rush this without risking the integrity of the foundation. In the interim, the homeowners might not be able to occupy the cottage, which is an inconvenience (in one project, the owners had to vacate for over a week while concrete cured​).
  • Cost Overruns: Unexpected problems (like discovering the cottage sill beam is rotten and needs replacement, or finding out the old foundation had asbestos insulation that needs abatement) can increase costs. It’s wise to have a contingency budget.
  • Safety Risks: Lifting and working under a house is dangerous if not done properly. Professionals carry insurance and follow safety protocols, but accidents (though rare) can be catastrophic (equipment failure, collapse of cribbing, etc.). Using a reputable, experienced house moving company greatly reduces this risk. All workers need to be vigilant about not going under an inadequately supported structure and using protective gear, especially when demolishing old concrete (flying debris, dust) or handling heavy materials.
  • Permitting and Legal Challenges: Sometimes permitting itself can be a challenge – if the cottage was non-conforming (grandfathered under old rules), raising it or altering it might trigger requirements to bring other aspects up to code. For example, if you turn a 50-year-old cottage on piers into a full-time dwelling with a basement, the building department might require that certain other systems (like septic capacity or railing heights, etc.) be upgraded. There could also be zoning issues: adding a taller foundation might technically increase the building’s height beyond what’s allowed in a cottage area. Early consultation with local authorities can identify these issues. Additionally, any work near water might need conservation authority permission to ensure you’re not affecting floodplains or shorelines. All these regulatory angles must be managed to avoid fines or orders to stop work.

Despite these challenges, professional contractors are well-versed in handling them. Proper engineering, careful work practices, and adherence to code and safety standards will mitigate most risks. It’s important for the homeowner to maintain open communication with the project manager and be prepared for a longer timeline if surprises occur.

Ontario-Specific Building Code Considerations and Permit Requirements

Ontario has strict building codes and regulations that come into play for foundation projects. Here are some key Ontario-specific considerations and requirements:

  • Building Permits: As mentioned, a building permit is mandatory for this scope of work. The permit application will require construction drawings detailing the new foundation (footing sizes, wall specifications, drainage, etc.) and often a description of the lifting method. Many municipalities in Ontario will only issue the permit if the plans are stamped by a Professional Engineer or a licensed BCIN designer, especially since lifting a house is considered a structural alteration. Inspections will be scheduled at various stages: usually after footing preparation, after foundation wall completion (before backfill), and after completion of the project. The inspectors will verify compliance with the Ontario Building Code.
  • Ontario Building Code (OBC) Requirements: The OBC has specific sections (Part 9 for housing/small buildings) that govern foundations. Important points include:
    • Frost Protection: Foundations must extend below the frost line (around 1.2 m or 4 feet in most of Ontario)​, or otherwise be designed with frost protection (like insulation for shallow foundations). This means your new footings will be at least 4 ft deep, often more if adding a basement.
    • Foundation Wall Structure: The OBC permits ICF foundation walls and has tables for the required thickness and reinforcement based on soil height against the wall. Typically, a 8″ concrete core is common for basement walls, but engineering can allow 6″ cores for certain heights. OBC Article 9.15.4.2 will require that ICF foundation walls are laterally supported at top and bottom (the floor system of the house provides the top support once reattached, and the footing the bottom support) ​thebuildingcodeforum.com. The code also limits wall height unless specifically designed – standard is around 8’–9’ basements; taller walls may need an engineer’s design.
    • Insulation and Energy Efficiency: Ontario’s energy code (SB-12 for housing) will require the new foundation to meet minimum insulation levels. ICF walls usually meet or exceed these for basements (ICF often has an effective R-value that more than satisfies code). The floor (if it’s a heated slab) may also require insulation underneath by code. Edge thermal breaks might be required in some cases to prevent heat loss at the slab perimeter.
    • Radon Gas Protection: Ontario code now requires provisions for radon mitigation in new construction. For a new basement slab, this typically means a capped conduit from beneath the slab (in the gravel) up to a location where a future fan could be installed, or at least a rough-in. This is something an Ontario builder will incorporate by default.
    • Fire Protection of Foam: If the interior of the ICF (foam) is exposed in a usable space, it must be covered with a thermal barrier (like 1/2″ drywall) for fire safety​. So if the basement is going to be used as a living area, you can’t leave the ICF foam exposed – you’d likely frame a perimeter wall inside and drywall it, or apply a suitable fire-rated coating. If it’s just an unfinished crawlspace for storage, this might not be required, but any service room or habitable area needs the fire protection per OBC.
    • Ventilation and Vapor: For a crawlspace, OBC may require ventilation openings or an insulated, air-sealed space depending on if it’s conditioned. If the new foundation creates a crawlspace rather than a full basement, you have options: vent it to the outside (with required vent sizes per code) or make it a conditioned space (insulate the walls, not the floor above, and heat it minimally to avoid moisture issues). Building code has specifics for crawlspace insulation and venting in Section 9.18.
    • Egress and Exits: If the new foundation is a full basement that will be finished or has bedrooms, code requires egress windows (minimum size and opening) or other exits. Usually at least one egress window is required in a basement if there are any sleeping rooms, and a certain size window for emergency escape in any basement living space. This might influence the design (you might include a large window well and window when building the ICF walls).
  • Zoning and Other Local Regulations: While not part of the building code, local zoning bylaws in Ontario communities can affect this project. For example, if the cottage is in a regulated shoreline area, there could be rules about altering the building’s location or height. Even raising the cottage to put a foundation could be seen as increasing the building’s height above grade. Most areas have a maximum height for structures – if the cottage was one storey on piers and now effectively becomes taller with a basement, it should still usually comply, but it’s something to confirm. Additionally, if the footprint is being expanded or if an addition is planned in tandem, setback rules apply. The permit process will usually flag these issues; sometimes a minor variance approval might be needed if, say, the cottage was very close to a lot line and the new foundation slightly changes that condition.
  • Utilities and Septic: Ontario law will require that if you are making the cottage a full-time dwelling or adding plumbing fixtures (like a basement bathroom), the septic system must be adequate for the load. Replacing a foundation doesn’t directly trigger a septic review unless plumbing is added or moved, but it’s something to keep in mind – an old septic might need an upgrade if a basement bathroom or laundry is added. Electrical service might need to be temporarily disconnected and later reconnected by the utility with an inspection (ESA – Electrical Safety Authority – in Ontario would inspect any changes to the electrical). All gas work (if any) needs a TSSA-certified gas fitter. These are parallel considerations to the main project.

Permit Process: Expect to submit a detailed application and wait perhaps a few weeks for approval. You’ll pay a fee based on project value or area. During construction, inspectors from the municipality will visit at key points. At completion, you may need a final inspection to close the permit, confirming that the house is safely on its new foundation and all code requirements are satisfied.

Undertaking this project in Ontario means working within a well-defined regulatory framework. The good news is that if you follow it, you’ll end up with a foundation that is strong, safe, and long-lasting, and a cottage that likely increases in value and usability (no more “slanty shanty” on wobbly piers!).

Conclusion

Raising an existing cottage to replace its foundation with an ICF foundation is a complex but rewarding project. By using professional house lifters and experienced foundation contractors, cottage owners can achieve a solid, insulated foundation that brings their old structure up to modern standards. The process involves careful planning, methodical execution in stages (lift, remove, rebuild, lower), and attention to local Ontario building codes and regulations. While the costs are significant and the risks must be managed, the result is a safer, more comfortable, and more valuable cottage that will stand on a strong foundation for decades to come. With the information in this guide, you can approach such a project with a clear understanding of each step – from jacking up the cottage, to pouring that final smooth concrete floor – and with realistic expectations about professional methods, costs, and requirements in the Ontario context. Enjoy your “new” cottage once it’s back on terra firma, now better than ever from the ground up!

We’d love to hear your thoughts! Please leave a comment below if you agree, disagree, or have any questions about the topic. If you need additional information or want to continue the conversation, don’t hesitate to contact us. For more insights and how-to guides, feel free to explore the links below or head over to our “The Workbench” page. We look forward to hearing from you!

The Best Exterior Finishes For ICF Walls

The Best Exterior Finishes For ICF Walls

The Best Exterior Finishes For ICF Walls

The Best Exterior Finishes For ICF Walls: Making Your Concrete Home Beautiful and Durable (Without Looking Like a Bunker)

When you decide to build your dream home in Canada’s challenging climate, Insulated Concrete Form (ICF) construction offers exceptional energy efficiency and durability. But then comes the big question that many Canadian ICF homeowners face: what exterior finish will best complement and protect your investment? After all, while a concrete fortress might be practical for those harsh Canadian winters, showing up to neighbourhood barbecues as “the bunker people” isn’t exactly the goal.

This isn’t just an aesthetic decision—the right exterior finish needs to enhance your home’s thermal performance, stand up to harsh Canadian weather conditions, and give you the curb appeal you want. After researching options, consulting with Canadian contractors, and visiting other ICF homes across provinces (some beautiful, some that looked like they were preparing for the zombie apocalypse), you’ll discover there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, but there are definitely superior options depending on your specific needs and climate zone.

Whether you’re in the planning stages of your ICF build in Toronto, looking to refresh your existing ICF home’s exterior in Vancouver, or building a new retreat in rural Quebec (perhaps to stop scaring the mail carrier), this comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the best exterior finishes for ICF walls in Canadian conditions.

Understanding the Unique Requirements of ICF Wall Finishes (Or Why Your Walls Are Like Toddlers)

Before diving into specific finish options, it’s important to understand why ICF walls have special considerations when it comes to exterior finishes. Think of your ICF walls as high-performing toddlers—incredibly strong and resilient on the inside, but still needing proper protection from the elements, especially in Canada’s extreme climate conditions.

Unlike traditional frame construction, ICF walls consist of expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam forms filled with reinforced concrete. This creates a wall system with exceptional thermal mass, energy efficiency, and strength—perfect for Canadian weather extremes. However, the exterior foam layer requires proper protection from UV radiation, physical damage, and moisture intrusion—because nothing says “renovation nightmare” like foam that’s been pecked apart by Canadian woodpeckers who thought your house was the world’s largest takeout container.

“The biggest mistake I see Canadian homeowners make is treating ICF like any other building system when choosing finishes,” explains Maria Rodriguez, an architect specializing in sustainable building methods for northern climates. “The exterior EPS foam needs specific consideration—it can’t be left exposed, and not all traditional cladding systems are compatible. I once saw a homeowner in Ontario who thought he could just paint the foam directly. Let’s just say after one Canadian winter, his house looked like a melted ice cream sandwich.”

Key requirements for any ICF exterior finish include:

  1. Weather resistance: The finish must create a weather-resistant barrier that prevents moisture from penetrating the foam.
  2. Breathability: While being weather-resistant, the finish should still allow some degree of vapor permeability to prevent moisture trapping.
  3. Attachment method: The finish must be securely fastened to the ICF wall system without compromising the foam’s insulation value.
  4. Compatibility: The finish should be chemically compatible with EPS foam and not cause degradation.
  5. Thermal performance: Ideally, the finish should maintain or enhance the thermal efficiency of the ICF wall system.

Now, let’s explore the best exterior finish options that meet these requirements while giving you the look you desire.

Acrylic Stucco: The Popular Choice

When we polled ICF homeowners at a sustainable building conference last year, nearly 60% had chosen some form of acrylic stucco for their exterior finish—and for good reason.

Acrylic stucco systems, also known as synthetic stucco or exterior insulation and finish systems (EIFS), are particularly well-suited to ICF construction. These multi-layered systems typically include a base coat applied directly to the ICF foam, reinforced with fiberglass mesh, and topped with a colored acrylic finish coat.

Advantages of Acrylic Stucco for ICF

  • Direct application: Can be applied directly to the ICF foam without requiring additional attachment systems
  • Flexibility: Slightly flexible, allowing it to handle minor settlement or movement without cracking
  • Seamless appearance: Creates a continuous, joint-free exterior surface
  • Color options: Available in virtually unlimited colors and several textures
  • Cost-effective: Generally less expensive than many alternative finishes
  • Weather resistance: Creates an effective weather barrier when properly installed

James Wilson, who built his ICF home in New Mexico five years ago, told me, “We went with acrylic stucco because it gave us the southwestern look we wanted, but more importantly, it’s held up beautifully through our hot summers and cold winters with zero maintenance so far.”

Considerations and Best Practices

While acrylic stucco is popular and effective, proper installation is critical. The system needs to include the right base coat thickness (typically 1/8 inch minimum), properly embedded reinforcing mesh, and the correct type of finish coat for your climate.

“In regions with extreme temperature fluctuations, I recommend using a more flexible finish coat and potentially higher-grade reinforcing mesh,” advises Thomas Greene, an ICF installer with 15 years of experience. “The small increase in material cost pays off in long-term durability.”

For best results:

  • Ensure your installer has specific experience with ICF applications
  • Consider elastomeric coatings for enhanced flexibility in extreme climates
  • Follow manufacturer specifications for your specific climate zone
  • Use proper flashing and sealing around all penetrations and transitions

Traditional Cement Stucco: The Time-Tested Solution

Traditional cement stucco—the kind that’s been used for centuries—remains a viable option for ICF homes, though with some specific modifications for ICF application.

Unlike acrylic systems, traditional cement stucco is a three-coat system consisting of a scratch coat, brown coat, and finish coat. For ICF applications, the system requires metal lath attachment to secure the stucco to the foam surface.

Advantages of Traditional Cement Stucco

  • Proven durability: Centuries of use prove its longevity when properly installed
  • Impact resistance: More resistant to physical impact than acrylic systems
  • Repairability: Relatively easy to patch and repair if damaged
  • Natural appearance: Creates a distinctive, somewhat variable texture many homeowners prefer
  • Breathability: Naturally breathable, allowing some vapor transmission

When we visited an ICF development in Santa Fe, we met Sarah and Michael, who chose traditional stucco for their home. “We wanted something that would age gracefully and look like it belongs in the landscape,” Sarah explained. “Five years in, the stucco has developed a beautiful patina that synthetic systems just can’t match.”

Considerations and Best Practices

Traditional stucco requires careful planning for ICF applications. The metal lath must be properly attached to the ICF system, typically using special fasteners designed to secure into the plastic webs inside the ICF forms without creating thermal bridges.

“The attachment system is critical,” emphasizes Rodriguez. “You need fasteners long enough to reach the ICF webs but not so long they penetrate too deeply into the concrete core.”

For best results:

  • Use specialized ICF fasteners for attaching lath
  • Ensure proper drainage plane behind the stucco system
  • Consider adding a bonding agent to the scratch coat for better adhesion to the drainage mat
  • Allow proper curing time between coats (more critical than with acrylic systems)
  • Use control joints to accommodate movement and prevent cracking

Adhered Stone Veneer: The Luxury Option

For homeowners wanting the look of stone without the structural requirements of full masonry, adhered stone veneer offers a beautiful, high-end option for ICF walls.

These systems consist of thin (typically 1-2 inch) pieces of natural stone or manufactured stone products adhered to the wall surface. For ICF applications, installation usually involves a drainage mat, metal lath, scratch coat, and then the stone application with mortar.

Advantages of Stone Veneer

  • Premium aesthetics: Provides the high-end look of natural stone
  • Versatility: Available in countless stone types, colors, and patterns
  • Durability: Extremely long-lasting when properly installed
  • Property value: Often increases resale value due to its premium appearance
  • Regionality: Can be selected to match local architectural styles

Robert and Jennifer, ICF homeowners in Colorado, incorporated stone veneer on their home’s front facade. “We wanted something that would stand up to our heavy snow and complement the mountain setting,” Robert shared. “The stone veneer has been perfect—it gives us that solid, substantial look without requiring structural reinforcement.”

Considerations and Best Practices

Stone veneer systems are among the more complex and expensive finishes to install on ICF. Proper installation is absolutely critical to prevent moisture problems and ensure longevity.

“The biggest challenge with stone veneer on ICF is creating a proper drainage plane,” explains Greene. “Unlike acrylic stucco, which can be relatively forgiving of minor moisture intrusion, trapped moisture behind stone can cause serious problems over time.”

For best results:

  • Always include a proper drainage mat or air gap behind the stone system
  • Use metal lath securely fastened to ICF webs
  • Consider climate conditions when selecting mortar type
  • Ensure proper flashing at all transitions and penetrations
  • Work with installers who have specific experience with ICF plus stone veneer

Fiber Cement Siding: The Versatile Alternative

For homeowners who prefer the look of lap siding, shingles, or panels, fiber cement products offer excellent compatibility with ICF construction.

Made from cement, sand, and cellulose fibers, these products come in a wide variety of styles and can be attached to ICF walls using furring strips secured to the ICF webs.

Advantages of Fiber Cement Siding

  • Design flexibility: Available in traditional lap siding, panels, shingles, and board-and-batten styles
  • Color options: Can be factory-painted in countless colors or field-painted after installation
  • Fire resistance: Highly fire-resistant, an important consideration in wildfire-prone areas
  • Low maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep compared to wood siding
  • Insect resistance: Not susceptible to termites or other wood-destroying insects

When my colleague David built his ICF home in the Pacific Northwest, he chose fiber cement lap siding to blend with neighboring homes. “No one even realizes it’s an ICF home,” he told me. “We get all the energy efficiency benefits while maintaining the traditional neighborhood aesthetic.”

Considerations and Best Practices

While fiber cement products themselves are excellent, the attachment system requires careful planning for ICF applications. Typically, this involves installing treated wood or PVC furring strips securely fastened to the ICF webs, which then serve as the attachment point for the siding.

“The furring system creates a rainscreen gap between the ICF and the siding, which is ideal for moisture management,” notes Rodriguez. “Just be sure those furring strips are securely attached to the ICF webs, not just the foam.”

For best results:

  • Use furring strips at appropriate intervals based on your specific siding product
  • Include a weather-resistant barrier over the ICF foam before installing furring
  • Consider composite furring products for long-term durability
  • Follow manufacturer spacing requirements for your specific climate zone
  • Use proper flashing at all transitions and penetrations

Brick Veneer: The Classic Choice

For classic aesthetics and exceptional durability, brick veneer remains a popular choice for many ICF homeowners, particularly in regions where brick is the predominant exterior finish.

Unlike stone veneer, brick veneer is typically not adhered directly to the wall surface but instead is installed with an air gap between the brick and the ICF wall. This system requires secure attachment of brick ties to the ICF system.

Advantages of Brick Veneer

  • Timeless appearance: Classic look that never goes out of style
  • Extreme durability: Can last for generations with minimal maintenance
  • Fire resistance: Excellent fire protection properties
  • Sound attenuation: Adds another layer of sound isolation
  • Color permanence: Fired clay brick maintains its color indefinitely

Lisa and Mark, ICF homeowners in Georgia, chose brick veneer for their home’s exterior. “In our neighborhood, brick is the standard,” Lisa explained. “Our ICF home looks traditional from the outside, but we’re enjoying energy bills about 70% lower than our neighbors.”

Considerations and Best Practices

The main challenge with brick veneer on ICF is the attachment system. Special brick tie systems designed specifically for ICF must be used to secure the brick veneer to the ICF structure.

“Brick veneer requires careful planning from the foundation up,” cautions Greene. “You need proper support at the foundation, correct spacing for expansion, and specially designed ties that secure to the ICF webs without compromising the foam insulation.”

For best results:

  • Work with a mason experienced with ICF construction
  • Use ICF-specific brick tie systems
  • Ensure proper flashing and weep holes at the bottom of walls
  • Maintain the recommended air gap between brick and ICF
  • Include proper expansion joints based on climate conditions

Engineered Wood Siding: The Sustainable Option

For homeowners seeking a natural wood look with enhanced durability, engineered wood siding products offer an excellent option for ICF homes.

These products, made from wood fibers combined with resins and waxes, provide the warm aesthetics of wood with improved rot and insect resistance. Like fiber cement, they’re installed over furring strips attached to the ICF webs.

Advantages of Engineered Wood Siding

  • Natural appearance: Provides the warm look of wood
  • Sustainability: Often manufactured using sustainable forestry practices
  • Workability: Can be cut, shaped, and installed using standard carpentry tools
  • Weight advantage: Lighter than fiber cement, making installation easier
  • Cost-effective: Typically less expensive than natural wood siding

Emily, an ICF homeowner in Minnesota, selected engineered wood siding for her lake house. “We wanted something that looked natural in our wooded setting but wouldn’t require the maintenance of cedar,” she said. “Three years in, it still looks brand new despite our harsh winters.”

Considerations and Best Practices

While engineered wood products have come a long way in durability, proper installation remains critical for long-term performance, especially in wet climates.

“The key with any wood-based product on ICF is creating that rainscreen gap,” advises Rodriguez. “You want air circulation behind the siding and proper water management at all transitions.”

For best results:

  • Install over furring strips securely attached to ICF webs
  • Use manufacturer-recommended fasteners and spacing
  • Maintain minimum ground clearance recommendations
  • Follow specific painting or finishing guidelines
  • Include proper flashing at all penetrations and transitions

Vinyl Siding: The Budget-Friendly Champion

Let’s talk about vinyl siding—the hockey stick of exterior finishes. It’s not going to win architectural beauty contests, but it’s practical, durable, and performs reliably in Canadian conditions.

For ICF homeowners watching their budget (because you probably spent it all on concrete), vinyl siding offers an affordable, low-maintenance option that can be successfully installed on ICF walls with proper preparation. It’s particularly popular in suburban developments across Ontario, Quebec, and the Atlantic provinces.

Advantages of Vinyl Siding

  • Unbeatable price point: Generally the most affordable cladding option at $6-11 per square foot installed (CAD)
  • Cold weather performance: Maintains flexibility even in extremely cold Canadian winters
  • Color variety: Available in hundreds of colors and several profiles
  • Zero maintenance: No painting, staining, or sealing required—just the occasional hosing down after a Canadian winter
  • Lightweight: Easy to transport and install, reducing labor costs
  • DIY potential: One of the few finishes ambitious homeowners might tackle themselves

Tom, who built his ICF retirement home in New Brunswick, chose vinyl siding to stretch his budget. “My wife wanted the energy efficiency of ICF to handle our brutal winters, and I wanted money left over for a fishing boat,” he laughed. “Vinyl siding let us both get what we wanted. Four years and several Maritime winters later, it still looks great, and my bass boat is still making her roll her eyes.”

Considerations and Best Practices for Canadian Installations

Vinyl siding requires proper installation techniques specific to ICF to perform well in Canadian climates. The key is creating a secure attachment system using furring strips fastened to the ICF webs, with special attention to allowing for thermal expansion and contraction, which is significant in Canada’s extreme temperature variations.

“Vinyl gets a bad rap sometimes, but when properly installed on ICF, it can perform extremely well even in our harshest Canadian conditions,” explains Greene. “The secret is proper furring attachment and allowing for expansion and contraction. Vinyl moves a lot between a -30°C January day and a 30°C July afternoon—fight that movement and you’ll have problems.”

For best results in Canadian installations:

  • Install furring strips at 16″ centers, securely fastened to ICF webs
  • Allow proper spacing at all terminations for expansion
  • Use J-channel and proper flashing at all openings and transitions
  • Consider insulated vinyl products for additional R-value in northern regions
  • Select heavier gauge products (minimum .044″) for better durability in extreme Canadian weather
  • Ensure proper installation around typical Canadian features like dryer vents to prevent ice damming

Choosing the Right Finish for Your Canadian Climate and Needs (Because Canadian Weather Doesn’t Care About Your Preferences)

While all of the finishes discussed can work well with ICF construction, Canadian climate considerations should heavily influence your decision. As one Nova Scotia contractor eloquently put it: “You can want whatever you want, but a Maritime winter’s going to do whatever it’s going to do.”

For Cold Canadian Winters

In the majority of Canadian regions where harsh winters are the primary concern, acrylic stucco with elastomeric properties or fiber cement products tend to handle the extreme freeze-thaw cycles exceptionally well. Traditional cement stucco can also work but requires proper mix design specifically formulated for Canadian freeze-thaw resistance.

“For our Manitoba and Saskatchewan clients, we recommend acrylic stucco systems with higher elastomeric content,” notes Rodriguez. “They handle the expansion and contraction from -40°C to 30°C without cracking. One client in Winnipeg called me in January wondering if his heating was broken because it rarely turned on. It wasn’t broken—the ICF and proper exterior finish were just doing their jobs perfectly.”

For Wet Coastal Areas

In regions with high rainfall and humidity, like British Columbia’s Lower Mainland or parts of Atlantic Canada, rainscreen systems become critical. Fiber cement or engineered wood siding installed over furring strips provides excellent long-term performance by allowing walls to dry effectively.

“In high-humidity environments like Vancouver or Halifax, you absolutely want that ventilation gap behind your siding,” advises Thomas Greene, an ICF specialist who works throughout Canada. “It’s the best insurance against moisture problems down the road, especially with the driving rains you get in coastal areas.”

For Urban Canadian Settings

In urban areas where a traditional look is desired, brick veneer remains popular across Ontario, Quebec and parts of the Prairie provinces. The combination of ICF with brick veneer creates an exceptionally energy-efficient wall system that also aligns with the architectural heritage of many Canadian cities.

“In Toronto neighborhoods, you’ll want your home to blend with the existing brick aesthetic while taking advantage of modern building technology,” explains Rodriguez. “ICF with brick veneer gives you the best of both worlds—traditional appearance with cutting-edge performance.”

For Humid, Rainy Climates

In regions with high rainfall and humidity, like the Pacific Northwest or Southeast, rainscreen systems become more critical. Fiber cement or engineered wood siding installed over furring strips provides excellent long-term performance by allowing walls to dry effectively.

“In high-humidity environments, you absolutely want that ventilation gap behind your siding,” advises Greene. “It’s the best insurance against moisture problems down the road.”

For Extreme Cold Climates

In severe cold climates, the freeze-thaw cycle becomes a major consideration. Acrylic stucco with elastomeric properties or fiber cement products tend to handle these conditions well. Traditional cement stucco can also work but requires proper mix design for freeze-thaw resistance.

“For our Minnesota clients, we recommend acrylic stucco systems with higher elastomeric content,” notes Rodriguez. “They handle the expansion and contraction from -30°F to 90°F without cracking.”

For High-Impact Weather Areas

In regions prone to hail, hurricanes, or other severe weather events, impact resistance becomes paramount. Traditional cement stucco, brick veneer, and fiber cement products tend to offer superior impact resistance compared to acrylic stucco systems.

“After a major hailstorm hit our area, we noticed the homes with traditional cement stucco had significantly less damage than those with acrylic systems,” shared Wilson. “The slightly higher installation cost paid off in that one weather event alone.”

Cost Considerations: Balancing Budget and Value (Or: How to Avoid Eating Ramen After Building Your Dream Home)

Exterior finish costs can vary dramatically based on material, complexity, and regional labour rates across Canada. Here’s a general ranking from most affordable to premium (national averages across Canada as of 2025, in CAD):

  1. Vinyl Siding: $6-11 per square foot installed
  2. Acrylic Stucco: $11-18 per square foot installed
  3. Engineered Wood Siding: $12-21 per square foot installed
  4. Traditional Cement Stucco: $14-24 per square foot installed
  5. Fiber Cement Siding: $16-26 per square foot installed
  6. Manufactured Stone Veneer: $22-30 per square foot installed
  7. Brick Veneer: $24-36 per square foot installed
  8. Natural Stone Veneer: $30-48 per square foot installed

Note that prices tend to be higher in urban centers like Toronto and Vancouver, and somewhat lower in smaller communities. Northern and remote regions often see significant premiums due to transportation and limited contractor availability.

Installation costs on ICF can sometimes be lower than on conventional framing because the flat, even surface of ICF walls can speed up application of certain finishes. It’s like the difference between icing a perfectly smooth cake versus one that looks like it survived an earthquake—one is obviously going to go faster.

“We’ve found that stucco application on ICF can be up to 15% faster than on conventional framed walls with sheathing,” notes Greene. “The foam provides an ideal substrate for direct application systems, which helps offset some of the higher material costs in Canadian markets.”

When budgeting, consider not just the initial cost but long-term maintenance requirements and energy performance. Higher-cost options like brick veneer may offer lower lifetime costs due to minimal maintenance requirements and excellent thermal performance in Canadian conditions. As one financially-savvy Calgarian homeowner likes to say, “Buy once, cry once.” Though as his wife points out, he still cried twice—once when he paid for the brick and again when he saw the final bill.

Also factor in potential energy rebates and incentives. Many Canadian provinces offer energy efficiency incentives that can help offset the cost of high-performance building envelopes, including certain exterior finish systems that enhance the already impressive R-value of ICF construction.

Common Mistakes to Avoid (AKA: “Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me Before I Spent My Life Savings”)

Through my conversations with dozens of ICF homeowners and builders, several common mistakes emerged that you’ll want to avoid:

  1. Skimping on attachment systems: Using too few fasteners or fasteners that don’t properly engage the ICF webs can lead to failure. As one builder eloquently put it, “Gravity always wins eventually.”
  2. Improper flashing details: Regardless of finish type, proper flashing at all penetrations, transitions, and terminations is critical for long-term performance. Water is the ninja assassin of home construction—silent, persistent, and devastating if not properly defended against.
  3. Ignoring manufacturer climate recommendations: What works in Arizona may not work in Seattle—always follow region-specific guidelines. One unfortunate homeowner in Florida insisted on using a finish recommended for desert climates. “Now his house sweats more than I do at my in-laws’ Thanksgiving,” his contractor reported.
  4. Choosing based solely on aesthetics: While appearance matters, performance characteristics should be your primary consideration. Beauty is only skin deep, but water damage goes all the way to your wallet.
  5. Hiring inexperienced installers: Working with contractors who understand the unique requirements of ICF is essential, even if it means paying a premium. As my father-in-law likes to say, “The bitterness of poor quality lasts much longer than the sweetness of a low price.”

“The biggest problems we see are almost always related to inexperienced installers not understanding the specific requirements of ICF walls,” emphasizes Rodriguez. “It’s worth waiting for the right contractor who has ICF-specific experience. I had one client who hired his nephew’s buddy who ‘did some construction work’ to install stone veneer on his ICF home. Two years and $40,000 in water damage later, he admitted that maybe specialized experience was worth paying for.”

Future Trends in ICF Exterior Finishes

As ICF construction continues to grow in popularity, manufacturers are developing more specialized finish systems designed specifically for ICF applications.

Emerging trends include:

  • Integrated finish systems: Some ICF manufacturers are developing proprietary finish systems designed to work seamlessly with their specific forms.
  • Enhanced thermal finishes: New finish systems with additional insulating properties to further improve the already impressive thermal performance of ICF.
  • Pre-finished panels: Factory-finished panels that can be attached to ICF walls, reducing field labor and weather exposure during construction.
  • Smart coatings: Finishes with enhanced properties like self-cleaning, air-purifying, or temperature-responsive characteristics.

“I’m particularly excited about the development of carbon-negative finish materials,” shares Rodriguez. “The combination of carbon-sequestering finishes with the energy-efficiency of ICF could create truly climate-positive buildings.”

Conclusion: Making Your Decision (Without Having an Existential Crisis)

Choosing the right exterior finish for your Canadian ICF home comes down to balancing several factors:

  • Climate compatibility: Choose a finish system well-suited to your specific Canadian climate conditions. Your house shouldn’t need therapy because it’s fighting with a Prairie winter or coastal rain.
  • Aesthetic preferences: Select a finish that gives you the look and feel you want for your home. After all, you’re the one who has to pull into the driveway every day without thinking, “What was I thinking, eh?”
  • Budget constraints: Find the sweet spot between initial cost and long-term performance. Remember: cheap things aren’t always good, and good things aren’t always cheap, but sometimes vinyl siding is both, even in the Canadian context.
  • Maintenance tolerance: Be honest about how much ongoing maintenance you’re willing to perform during those precious few warm months. If the words “annual maintenance” make you break out in hives, brick or vinyl might be your best friends.
  • Installation expertise: Ensure qualified installers are available in your area for your chosen finish. The phrase “I’m sure I can figure it out” has preceded many, many repair bills across the Canadian landscape.

The right finish not only enhances your building’s performance but also provides daily satisfaction through its appearance and durability. By understanding the unique requirements of ICF construction in Canadian conditions and carefully evaluating your options, you’ll be well on your way to a beautiful, long-lasting exterior that complements the exceptional performance of your ICF home.

Whether you choose the popular acrylic stucco (perfect for Prairie provinces), budget-friendly vinyl siding (beloved in Atlantic Canada), timeless brick veneer (a staple in Ontario and Quebec), or any of the other excellent options we’ve explored, your ICF home deserves a finish that’s as thoughtfully selected as the ICF system itself. After all, as many Canadian contractors like to remind their clients (usually while handing over another invoice), “The finish isn’t just what people see—it’s your home’s first line of defense against everything a Canadian winter throws at it.”

And remember, whatever you choose, at least your ICF home won’t be drafty during those -30°C days. You might have decision fatigue from all these options, but you’ll never have to wear two sweaters inside your house again, no matter which province you call home. And that alone is worth celebrating, no matter what your neighbours think of your exterior finish choice.

We’d love to hear your thoughts! Please leave a comment below if you agree, disagree, or have any questions about the topic. If you need additional information or want to continue the conversation, don’t hesitate to contact us. For more insights and how-to guides, feel free to explore the links below or head over to our “The Workbench” page. We look forward to hearing from you!

Battling the Freeze: Understanding Ice Dams on Roofs

The Frosty Foes of Ontario Roofs: A Not-So-Chill Guide to Ice Dams on Roofs

Winter in Ontario is a breathtaking spectacle. The landscape transforms into a glistening wonderland, perfect for cozy evenings by the fire and the satisfying crunch of snow underfoot. But amidst this beauty lurks a silent saboteur, a frosty foe that can turn your idyllic winter scene into a soggy, stressful nightmare: the dreaded ice dam.

Those picturesque icicles dangling from your eaves? They’re not just nature’s frozen jewelry—they’re the calling cards of a cold-hearted villain plotting against your home. Consider this your spy briefing on the sneaky world of ice dams: what they are, why they’ve developed such an unhealthy obsession with Ontario homes, and how you can foil their dastardly plans.

The Anatomy of an Ice Dam: Cold War on Your Roof

Picture this: While you’re inside enjoying hot cocoa and binge-watching your favorite show, a tiny rebellion is happening right at the edge of your roof. Snow falls, creating that perfect holiday card scene. But beneath this seemingly innocent blanket, a secret war is being waged.

Heat from your home (the same cozy warmth you’re enjoying in your fuzzy socks) is escaping into the attic like a sneaky teenager past curfew. This warmth causes the snow touching your roof to melt, probably while whispering, “It’s not you, it’s me.”

This meltwater then begins its journey downhill, like a miniature ski trip toward your gutters. But as it reaches the eaves—that part of your roof that extends beyond your heated walls—it hits a cold reality check. Suddenly, it’s like stepping out of a sauna into a freezer. The water freezes faster than your smile when the in-laws announce an extended stay.

This frozen ridge becomes the ice dam—a bouncer with a strict “no liquid allowed” policy. Subsequent meltwater backs up behind this icy barricade with nowhere to go but through your roof. It’s basically the worst traffic jam ever, except instead of being late for work, you’re facing potential thousands in home repairs.

Ontario’s Love Affair (It’s Complicated) with Ice Dams

If Ontario roofs had relationship statuses with ice dams, it would definitely be “It’s complicated.” Our province seems to have all the qualities ice dams look for in a potential target: heavy snowfall, temperatures that can’t make up their mind, and lakeside properties that create “lake effect snow”—which is just Mother Nature’s way of saying, “You thought you had enough snow? That’s cute. Hold my beer.”

The Great Lakes regions—Erie, Huron, Superior, and Ontario—are particularly susceptible. Even Toronto, with all its big-city swagger, can’t intimidate these icy invaders. The GTA, including posh Markham, frequently finds itself in an unwanted winter relationship with ice dams.

Historical data tells us this toxic relationship has been going on for years. The winter storm of 1999 in Southwestern Ontario led to $50 million in ice dam-related insurance claims. That’s enough money to buy everyone in Ontario a really nice snow shovel and still have enough left over for hot chocolate.

More recently, in 2019, the area between Sudbury and Ottawa saw ice dam reports increase fivefold compared to the previous year. And just this March, Waterloo homeowners were still battling these frozen foes. It’s like ice dams didn’t get the memo that winter was supposed to be winding down.

The Usual Suspects: What Causes Ice Dams (Besides Winter’s Vendetta Against Homeowners)

Several factors conspire to create the perfect ice dam storm. Think of them as the Ocean’s Eleven of winter home problems:

  1. Ontario’s Winter Weather: Our heavy snowfall and temperature mood swings create the perfect environment. Ontario winter doesn’t just make us reach for extra blankets; it creates ideal conditions for ice dams to throw their frozen parties on our roofs.
  2. Sloped Roofs: Those charming sloped roofs that make our homes look like something from a fairy tale? They’re basically ice dam magnets. And if your roof has valleys where snow accumulates thanks to wind? That’s like sending ice dams an engraved invitation.
  3. Heat Escaping Your Home: This is the ringleader of the operation. Warm air sneaking from your living space into the attic is like leaving the door open for a burglar. This escaped heat warms the underside of your roof, melting snow and starting the whole miserable process.
  4. Inadequate Attic Insulation: Without proper insulation, your home leaks heat like a gossip leaks secrets. This escaped warmth just makes ice dams more powerful, like giving Popeye an extra can of spinach.
  5. Poor Attic Ventilation: Good ventilation helps keep your attic cold—which, ironically, is a good thing in winter. Without it, warm air gets trapped, turning your attic into a snow-melting sauna.
  6. Attic Air Leaks: Those tiny gaps around plumbing vents, electrical wiring, and chimneys? They’re the double agents in this cold war, letting warm air bypass your defenses and head straight for the roof.
  7. Clogged Gutters: When your gutters are packed with leaves and debris, they’re about as useful as a chocolate teapot. Water can’t drain, increasing the chance of freezing and forming ice dams.

Staying Ahead of the Freeze: How to Outsmart These Icy Intruders

The good news is that you don’t have to surrender to these frozen fiends. Here’s your counter-attack strategy:

Maximize Attic Insulation

Think of proper insulation as your home’s winter coat. You wouldn’t go out in -20°C wearing just a t-shirt, so don’t let your attic face winter unprepared. Aim for R-38 or higher in our Ontario climate—enough insulation to make your attic yawn and say, “Is it winter already? I hadn’t noticed.”

Optimize Attic Ventilation

A well-ventilated attic is like having good circulation—it keeps everything healthy. You need a balanced system of soffit vents (for cold air intake) and ridge or roof vents (for warm air exhaust). It’s basically creating a one-way street for air: “Cold air, please enter here. Warm air, your exit is that way.”

Seal Attic Air Leaks

Find and seal those sneaky gaps around light fixtures, plumbing pipes, and chimneys. It’s like playing a home maintenance version of “Whac-A-Mole,” except instead of moles, you’re hunting down and sealing air leaks with caulk and foam sealant. Experts agree this is often the most effective way to prevent ice dams, which is probably why it’s also the most tedious. The universe has a sense of humor that way.

Regular Gutter Cleaning

Think of this as dental hygiene for your house. Nobody enjoys it, but the alternative is much worse. Clean those gutters in fall and throughout winter to remove leaves, sticks, and debris. Your future self will thank you while your neighbors with ice dams eye your dry ceilings with envy.

Snow Removal with a Roof Rake

After a significant snowfall, grab your roof rake and channel your inner snow ninja. Remove excess snow from your roof, especially the first 3-4 feet from the eaves. Work carefully from the edges inward, like you’re creating the world’s most boring snow sculpture. Your goal is to prevent the conditions that lead to ice dams, not to audition for a roofing demolition crew.

Consider an Ice and Water Shield

When it’s time for a new roof, ask about installing an ice and water shield underlayment. It’s like giving your roof a superhero cape that protects against water intrusion. Most building codes require it now, which is one of those rare instances where building regulations and common sense actually agree with each other.

When the Ice Breaks Bad: Removal Without the Drama

Despite your best prevention efforts, sometimes ice dams form anyway (because winter in Ontario plays by its own rules). Here’s how to deal with them:

The Trusty Roof Rake

Continue using your roof rake to create channels in the ice dam. Think of it as creating emergency exit routes for trapped meltwater—like being a tiny snow plow for your roof.

Calcium Chloride in Stockings

Fill nylon stockings with calcium chloride and place them across the ice dam. Yes, this means sacrificing pantyhose to the winter gods, but it’s worth it. These create melting channels for drainage and give your neighbors something to gossip about. “Did you see what the Smiths did with their stockings? On the ROOF!”

Avoid using rock salt, which can damage your roof faster than a toddler with permanent markers can redecorate your walls.

Professional Steam Removal

When all else fails, call in the professionals with their steam equipment. It’s the nuclear option, but sometimes necessary. These pros use steam to melt ice without damaging your roof—they’re like the special forces of winter home maintenance.

What NOT to do:

  • Never use sharp tools like axes or ice picks on your roof. Your goal is to remove ice dams, not audition for a horror movie about home repair gone wrong.
  • Avoid using boiling water, which can damage shingles and may refreeze faster than your fingers on a metal pole in January.
  • Be extremely cautious on ladders. A trip to the ER with a broken limb will definitely make your ice dam problem seem less urgent, but not in a good way.

The Chilling Aftermath: When Ice Dams Win the Battle

Ignoring ice dams can lead to consequences more dramatic than the season finale of your favorite show:

  • Roofing System Damage: Water can seep under shingles, causing them to lift, crack, or blow off entirely. It’s like giving your roof an unwanted makeover.
  • Gutter and Downspout Damage: The weight of ice can bend or detach gutters faster than a toddler can detach your TV remote’s battery cover.
  • Interior Water Damage: This is where things get really expensive. Water can leak into your home, creating ceiling stains that look like abstract art nobody asked for.
  • Mold and Mildew Growth: Trapped moisture creates the perfect environment for mold—nature’s way of saying, “You should have dealt with that ice dam last month.”
  • Structural Damage: In severe cases, the weight of accumulated ice can stress your roof structure. It’s like putting an elephant on your roof and hoping for the best.

Seeking Assistance: Where to Turn When You’re In Over Your Head

If you’re facing ice dam issues or want to learn more, several resources can help:

  • Local Municipal Websites: They won’t fix your ice dams, but they might have some useful information buried somewhere between parking regulations and recycling schedules.
  • Professional Associations: The Ontario Association of Home Inspectors (OAHI) and the Roofing Contractors Association of Ontario (RCAO) can help you find qualified professionals who won’t look at your ice dams and say, “Wow, I’ve never seen it this bad before” (even if they’re thinking it).
  • Insurance Bureau of Canada (IBC): The IBC can help you understand your home insurance coverage related to ice dams. Spoiler alert: prevention is cheaper than insurance claims.

The Latest Scoop: Ice Dam News That Will Freeze Your Timeline

Recent reports confirm that ice dams continue to be the winter equivalent of that relative who overstays their welcome. In March 2025, a Waterloo restoration company reported being swamped with calls about ice dam-related leaks. Meanwhile, Port Bruce dealt with ice damming on Catfish Creek causing flooding—a different but related issue that proves ice in all forms has a vendetta against human habitation.

Conclusion: Don’t Let Your Winter Get Dammed

Ice dams may be persistent winter villains in the ongoing saga of Ontario homeownership, but armed with knowledge and preventive strategies, you can keep your home dry and your sanity intact. A well-insulated attic, proper ventilation, and regular maintenance are your best weapons in this cold war.

So this winter, while you’re enjoying hot chocolate and holiday movies, spare a thought for your roof. A little prevention now means not having to explain to your spouse why there’s a mysterious water stain on the ceiling that looks suspiciously like Elvis.

Remember, when it comes to ice dams, an ounce of prevention is worth a whole lot of buckets—specifically, the buckets you won’t need to place strategically around your home to catch leaks. Stay warm, stay dry, and may the odds of a dam-free winter be ever in your favor!

Resources for Further Reading:

We’d love to hear your thoughts! Please leave a comment below if you agree, disagree, or have any questions about the topic. If you need additional information or want to continue the conversation, don’t hesitate to contact us. And for more insights and how-to guides, feel free to explore the links below or head over to our “The Workbench” page. We look forward to hearing from you!

home trends

Top Trends in Home Design for 2025

home trends

Introduction: Why Your 2023 House is Already a Relic

Let’s face it: by 2025, your “modern” farmhouse with its shiplap and subway tiles will look as outdated as a flip phone. The construction industry is sprinting into the future, fueled by climate urgency, tech innovations, and a collective desire to live in homes that don’t resemble IKEA showrooms. This article isn’t about throw pillows or accent walls—it’s about the bones of top trends in home design for 2025. Think eco-friendly materials, hurricane-defying designs, and walls so smart they’ll probably start charging you rent. Let’s dive in.

1. Sustainability: Building Homes That Hug Trees (Literally)

Your carbon footprint? More like carbon tiptoe.”

If top trends in home design for 2025 had a dating profile, their “green” credentials would be front and center. Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword anymore—it’s the foundation (pun intended) of modern construction.

  • Material Revolution:
    Forget concrete, the Taylor Swift of construction materials (ubiquitous but problematic). Builders are pivoting to hempcrete (a mix of hemp fibers and lime), cross-laminated timber (CLT), and even mycelium insulation (grown from fungi—yes, mushrooms are now architects). These materials sequester carbon, require less energy to produce, and won’t make Mother Nature cry.
  • Net-Zero Energy Homes:
    Solar panels? So 2020. Top trends in home design for 2025 will integrate photovoltaic glass windows and solar roof tiles that look like regular shingles (take that, HOA!). Pair these with geothermal heating and Tesla Powerwall-style batteries, and your house might just pay you at the end of the month.
  • Water Warriors:
    Drought-resistant landscaping is passé. Expect greywater recycling systems built into foundations and roofs designed to harvest rainwater like a camel at a desert rave.

Bonus quip: “If your house isn’t carbon-neutral by 2025, does it even have a LinkedIn?”

2. Tech-Integrated Construction: When Your House is Smarter Than Your Phone

“Alexa, stop judging my life choices.”

Smart homes are evolving from novelty to necessity, and top trends in home design for 2025 are leading the charge. Builders aren’t just adding tech—they’re baking it into the blueprint.

  • Pre-Wired for the Apocalypse (or Just Zoom Calls):
    New homes come with structured wiring systems that support AI-driven energy management, 5G connectivity, and enough bandwidth to stream Stranger Things in 8K while your teen hacks the Pentagon in the basement.
  • Self-Healing Materials:
    Crack in the wall? No problem. Self-repairing concrete (embedded with bacteria that secrete limestone) and smart glass that tints itself in sunlight are making maintenance a relic. Your house now heals like Wolverine—minus the angst.
  • Robotic Construction Crews:
    Bricklaying robots and 3D-printed foundations are slashing build times. One company in Texas printed a 500-square-foot home in 24 hours. Take that, Extreme Makeover: Home Edition.

“In 2025, your house will have a better Wi-Fi signal than your soul.”

3. Modular and Prefab Homes: Legos for Grown-Ups

“IKEA, but with fewer missing screws.”

Modular homes are shedding their “cheap trailer” stigma. Think customizable, factory-built modules stacked like life-sized Legos. Benefits?

  • Speed: A modular home can be assembled on-site in weeks, not months.
  • Cost Efficiency: Less waste, fewer delays, and bulk material purchasing.
  • Design Flexibility: Want a rooftop garden? A glass-walled office? A panic room for when your in-laws visit? Just add another module.

Swedish firm BoKlok (a Volvo-Skanska collab) is pioneering “flat-pack” homes that even include furniture. Finally, a couch that doesn’t require a PhD to assemble.

Bonus quip: “Why settle for a McMansion when you can have a McModular?”

4. Climate-Proofing: Building for the Apocalypse

“Because 2020 was just a warm-up.”*

With wildfires, floods, and hurricanes playing tag across the globe, top trends in home design for 2025 are built to survive the chaos.

  • Elevated Foundations: Coastal homes are going full Waterworld, perched on stilts or buoyant foundations.
  • Fire-Resistant Materials: Think non-combustible cladding, ember-proof vents, and sprinkler systems that activate faster than a Twitter mob.
  • Hurricane-Proof Windows: Impact-resistant glass and aerodynamic designs ensure your house won’t end up in Oz.

Architects in Florida are even testing “storm shutters” that double as solar panels. Take that, Mother Nature—we’ll use your tantrums to power our Netflix.

Bonus quip: “In 2025, ‘storm-chasing’ will just mean running to your panic room.”

5. Biophilic Design: Because Humans Miss Trees

“Your house is now a forest. You’re welcome.”

Biophilic design—connecting humans to nature—is shaping top trends in home design for 2025 in wild ways:

  • Living Walls: Structural walls embedded with plants that improve air quality and mood.
  • Natural Light Maximization: Oversized windows, light tunnels, and reflective materials ensure you’ll never need a “happy lamp” again.
  • Green Roofs: Rooftop gardens that reduce urban heat, absorb rainwater, and give squirrels a place to gossip.

Bonus quip: “If your house doesn’t have a fern wall, are you even millennial?”

Conclusion: The Home of 2025 is a Chameleon (But Less Slimy)

The future of home construction is all about adaptability. Top trends in home design for 2025 will generate energy, withstand disasters, and maybe even cheer you up after a bad day. And while we can’t promise flying cars or robot butlers (yet), these homes are proof that the future isn’t just coming—it’s already breaking ground.

So, whether you’re an eco-warrior, a tech geek, or just someone who wants a home that won’t collapse in a breeze, top trends in home design for 2025 have you covered. Now, if only they could invent a self-cleaning bathroom…

How To Landscape Your New Home

When planning how to landscape your new home, the very first thing you need to do is to create a plan of your property.

How To Landscape
How To Landscape

As a starting point, you can use the site plan your builder gave you when you purchased the home. You can reproduce it accurately to scale, using a ruler and graph paper, or you can utilize a particular software program. There are many that you can download from the web.

The following are the most popular programs:

VizTerra – 3D Professional Hardscaping and Landscaping design software

DreamPlan Home Design Software

VisionScape | 3D Landscape & Outdoor Living Design

 

So, How To Landscape Around Your New Home?

The most important thing you need to include in the plan is which areas are full sun, part shade, part sun, part shade, or full shade. Full sun means six or more hours of direct sun every day. Have in mind that the angle of the sun shifts as the growing season proceeds. And the length of the growing season depends on your geographic location.

The growing season falls between the spring equinox on March 21 and the fall equinox on September 21. June 21, the summer solstice, is the apex at which the days are longest, and the Sun is highest in the sky.

So don’t despair if you discover in late March that an area where you want to plant full-sun flowers only receives five hours of the sun; the sun will continue to climb higher in the sky until June 21, then slowly wane after that. It may take you one or two days of checking all areas of your yard at different times of day to ascertain how much sun they receive and when. Be aware of how shade shifts throughout the day from trees and structures.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

All Plants Don’t Grow Everywhere

The next critical pieces of information you need are your soil type and your hardiness zone. What kind of soil do you have? Sandy? Loam? Clay? You may have build flower beds with supplemented soil. Next, locating your geographic area in a hardiness zone will help you determine what plants will thrive in your climate, and when you can plant them.

Now you have the four primary pieces of reality that you need: a chart, sun and shade patterns, soil type and hardiness zone. The next step is interfacing your gardening dreams with the constraints of reality! To find the magical place where reality and your desires overlap, you must ask yourself several questions:

Would you like more shade? That calls for planting trees. What kinds of trees do you like, ornamental, evergreen or hardwood? How fast do they grow? How much shade will they provide? Plan ahead; plant flowers that require more sun far enough away from a future mature tree’s shade.

Do you want privacy? That calls for planting shrubbery, bushes, trees or tall grasses. How much privacy you want will dictate which types of plants to use. For example, evergreen trees provide a thicker barrier than hardwoods.

Will you have an area for relaxing and entertaining? Do you have walkways? Be sure not to use plants that will impede walking or seating space.

Do you want a manicured, formal look and feel? That calls for particular plants, straight lines, and purchased decorative items. Or do you want a more casual feel? That calls for wildflowers, flowing lines and unusual decorations such as handmade items, found objects or antiques.

Do you want to make a tiny space seem bigger? That calls for flowing lines and some tall plants to draw the eye upward to the expansive sky. Or do you want a big space to seem cozier? White flowers, decorative paths and seating areas will help.

Once you answer those questions, you can move on to the fun part, deciding which plants to use!

Choosing Plants

What are your favorite types of plants? More annuals than you could get your hands dirty planting in a season? Or lots of perennials that you can admire all summer while sitting on your tush sipping lemonade? Or mostly perennials with a few annuals thrown in to get the spring gardening bug out of your system?

Do you prefer high-maintenance or low-maintenance plants? Do you mind thinning irises or pruning roses?

Are you concerned with using primarily native plants? Or do you mind using a few non-native plants? Native plants withstand local weather conditions most favorable.

Do you want to attract as many birds and butterflies as possible?

Do you want something blooming during every part of the season? From bulb plants coming up in spring to say hello, such as crocus, tulips, and hyacinths, to hardy mums that bloom well into fall?

Do you want intoxicating fragrance from plants such as roses, lilacs or sweet pea vines?

What are your favorite types of flowers? Be very specific. Daisies? Petunias? Coneflowers? Delphiniums? Sunflowers? Coreopsis? Clematis?

What are your favorite colors? Deep, vibrant colors such as purples and burgundies? Pastels? Or do you like to mix it up?

Once you find the common ground of reality and your gardening goals, you can experiment with your chart. Make several photocopies of it and play with different themes, colors and designs. This is an excellent way to enjoy yourself if you’re itching to get into the garden, but it’s still snowing outside! And it facilitates interweaving all the various levels of gardening to achieve your landscaping dreams.

What Not to Plant Near Your Home

While planning your landscaping, you want to be careful not to plant some plants too close to your home. This includes trees with large roots, some shrubs, and ivy. If you want to incorporate flower beds immediately adjacent to your home, you should be sure that they’re evenly distributed around the perimeter of the house.

roots

Tree roots can wreak havoc on your home’s foundation and your septic system. If you ever need to sell your home, nothing will make its value, and the ability to sell it, plummet like a cracked foundation.

Tree roots can also damage your plumbing system, causing it to clog or back up. This leaves you with the worst kind of mess possible in your home, an overflowing toilet or backed up sewage in your basement.

Tree branches can also hang over shingles, scraping them away during growth or high winds. Not only is a leaky roof a huge inconvenience, but it also paves the way for structural damage and internal mildew, which can become toxic.

Consequently, trees should be set no closer to your house than a length equal to half the height the mature tree will be.

As a rule, large trees should be located at least twenty feet away from your house. Some mature trees can drink 100 gallons of water from the soil in just one day! This can cause the earth and your home’s foundation to sink.

How To Landscape Your New Home – What About The Shrubs?

Shrubs are another item that should be planted several feet away from the house. They can grow very thick and quickly, and therefore, they can destroy siding by scraping or staining it. If, it’s near impossible to get between shrubs and the house, they’re planted too closely.

As for ivy, it can work its way into the smallest of cracks, potentially damaging your brick, stone or siding. Ivy also shelters pests such as mice and slugs.

On the other hand, it’s safe to place flower beds next to your home. Though, they should be evenly spread. Having a flower bed on one side of your house only, will affect soil moisture content and may affect the foundation.

And be cautious not to use plants that need a huge amount of water. That’s because keeping areas immediately next to the house continually saturated may freeze, cause the soil to expand, and crack your foundation. Regular watering from a soaker hose laid 18 inches to two feet from the house around your home’s perimeter is a good thing.

Wise landscaping will help you add to your home’s beauty and value, rather than decreasing it!

Floor Plan of the Month

Featured Floor Plan of the Month

We love new floor plans, and we know you do too! Take a look at the Woodlands, 1971 square feet floor plan and drool over this 3-bedroom oasis with 1971 square feet of functional space. It is our latest “Floor Plan of the Month”.

Woodlands-1971

PLAN DESCRIPTION
This charming craftsman bungalow style plan features 1971 square feet of elegant living with a traditional entrance plan, large open spaces, large kitchen, stone fireplace, huge master, covered rear patio, and two car garage with side entry. The exterior is just as elegant with its many stone and siding details and wonderful charm. With all these features, this plan is ready to become your new home.

You will never have too little garage space. Not only do you have room for two cars, but there is also additional storage space, so box up those winter clothes and holiday decorations, you have somewhere to put them. It can also be changed from side entrance into the front entrance garage.

While the garage has 9-foot ceilings, the spacious feel of this home is complemented by 10 and coffered ceilings throughout.

Floor Plan 

Featured "Floor Plan Of The Month" From Ontario Home Builder
Floor Plan Of The Month

Woodlands-1971-rear

Stone skirt

Hardwood flooring throughout

Natural stone travertine tiles

Stone gas fireplace

Granite countertops

Premium kitchen cabinets with soft-close hinges

Premium finishings – 5″ baseboard, 2 3/4″ casing

Glass door shower

Low-E, argon high-performance windows

9′ and 10′ ceilings, coffered ceilings

Limited lifetime warranty shingles

From the garage, you can enter into a landing with a choice to head up the stairs into the bonus room with its 10-foot vaulted ceilings, or head into the breakfast room with its 12-foot soaring ceilings. This big open entertaining space gives you easy access to a sprawling family room with fireplace, and a chef’s dream kitchen with roomy pantry, and easy access to a formal dining area at the front of the house.

The entertaining doesn’t stop there. You can take the party outside onto your covered patio. You have the option to continue the cover along the back patio and take full advantage of your outdoor space. Your covered patio is accessible from the Breakfast room, and from your 4th bedroom with its private bath and hall off the utility room. This can be done as a 2nd master suite or a lovely offering to your guests. It’s perfect if you have long term visitors as it provides a little bit of privacy from the rest of the bedrooms.

Your master suite is a true retreat with large 5-piece bathroom and the option for a window box over the large corner tub. We love this option and think it’s perfect for creating a spa-like feel to your bathroom as you pile candles, bath salts, and scrubs onto this ledge for easy access that won’t slip into the tub. A roomy walk-in closet rounds out the master escape.

The last two bedrooms are connected by a Jack and Jill bathroom, or you have the option to turn the front bedroom into a beautiful study off the main entry way just across from the dining room.

We love providing flexible spaces so that you can choose how you and your family can best use the space in our homes and make them your own.

For more information on this wonderful floor plan or to set up an appointment to visit the show home, please call:

1 866 868-6606

Included in the price on your lot:

  • Stone skirt
  • Hardwood flooring throughout
  • Natural stone travertine tiles
  • Stone gas fireplace
  • Granite countertops
  • Premium kitchen cabinets with soft-close hinges
  • Premium finishings – 5″ baseboard, 2 3/4″ casing
  • Glass door shower
  • Low-E, argon high-performance windows
  • 9′ and 10′ ceilings, coffered ceilings
  • Limited lifetime warranty shingles

Conventional Construction: $619,000.00

Constructed with Insulated Concrete Forms and Radiant Floor Heating (Energy Efficient Package): $689,900.00

A lot, Building Permit Fees and Taxes excluded!

With a variety of home styles, we pride ourselves on offering a floorplan for everyone. Whether you are looking for a popular master-on-the-main design or a gourmet kitchen with breakfast nook, we have the layouts and finishes to create the home of your dreams.

 

Buying Front Entry Doors

The Ultimate Checklist for Buying Front Entry Doors

Everyone likes making an entrance, and your front door is one of the first design elements that guests see when first arriving at your home. You want your door to be inviting and aesthetically pleasing to match your home’s exterior. The front door is also meant to protect you while you’re indoors, so it also needs to be functional, durable and weather resistant.

Buying Front Entry Doors
Buying Front Entry Doors

You wouldn’t think your door has an impact on the energy efficiency of your home, but it does. Entry doors must be solid enough to withstand the wind, rain, scorching sun, and would-be intruders, yet handsome enough to make a good first impression.

Steel Front Doors

Steel doors are probably the most common doors, for several reasons. The first, of course, is that they are the least expensive option.

More popular than wood doors, steel doors feature energy-efficient foam core insulation.  These doors are fully weather-stripped, reducing chances of shrinking, swelling and warping.  Because of their solid construction, steel doors will withstand years of extreme weather conditions with minimum maintenance.

However, steel doors are vulnerable to dents, and if the painted skin is breached by a scratch or severe dent, it can rust.  And don’t combine a steel door with a storm door; heat build-up between the doors can cause the surface to peel. Because it can rust, it isn’t always the best choice for a home subject to harsh weather conditions. Also, steel conducts temperature, which is not ideal in an extremely hot or cold environment.

The doors can be purchased with predrilled doorknob and lockset holes, and most steel doors are packaged pre-primed and ready to paint. Steel doors offer extremely durable and affordable solutions for your exterior door needs.

Features:

  • Outstanding strength and weather resistance
  • Most cost effective materials for doors
  • Energy efficient – all steel doors come with foam insulation and weather-stripping to help block heat and cold and stand up to harsh weather
  • Stronger than wood and fiberglass doors
  • An excellent choice when security is a concern
  • Resists fire, warping and cracking
  • Can be finished with high-quality exterior paint
  • Available with coatings that mimic the look of real wood

Fiberglass Doors:

Fibreglass composite doors are relatively affordable and are most often chosen for their durability, and the fact they’re almost maintenance free. These doors can last a very long time, and many models offer warranties for as long as the buyer lives in the house.

Fibreglass doors are much more resistant to damage than steel and can be made to mimic genuine wood accurately, but without the drawbacks of wood. These doors can be painted or stained any way you choose.

Because fibreglass composite doors can go several years without needing any paint or stain touch-ups, they tend to work very well in harsh and humid climates. This material lasts longer than wood or steel, and its foam core offers much more insulation than wood.

Fibreglass doors share many of the benefits that wood and steel doors offer with a special sense of durability.

Energy efficient and practical for high-traffic entrances, fiberglass doors have wood grain texture molded into the door so that they give the appearance of a real wood door when painted or stained.

Fiberglas undergoes little change because of weather. Available in many styles and sizes, fiberglass doors are perfect for homeowners concerned with longevity, practicality and home security.

Features

  • Durable and easy to maintain – resists dents, cracks, rot, rust and warping
  • Energy efficient – all fiberglass doors come with foam insulation and weather-stripping to help block heat and cold
  • Available in a variety of finishes, including faux wood
  • Can be stained or painted to match your home’s exterior

Wood Doors:

Genuine wood is the traditionalist’s choice and available in just about any commercially logged wood, from premium species like mahogany, teak and walnut to economical paint-grade species such as hemlock or pine.

a beautiful front door
a beautiful front door

Wood is one of the more common choices for a front door. Despite the faux substitutes, nothing can beat the real deal for many homeowners. Modern wood door models are often sandwiches of wood veneer skins over a wood core.

This construction tends to minimize the chance of warping and also lowers cost. For this type of wood door, look for furniture-grade veneers that are at least 1/16 inch thick.

Anything thinner may be too easily damaged. While wood doors are luxurious and beautiful, they also offer a fair amount of upkeep. Wood is sensitive to moisture, and wetness in the wood can cause the door to warp, crack and change shape.

Sun is also an important factor in the life of your wood door. If your door is protected from these elements, it’s bound to last much longer. When shopping for pre-finished wood doors, look for durable stains and high-gloss finishes, since these will best protect the wood.

If you’ve decided to apply the finish or stain on your own, make sure to put the finish on the top and bottom edges of the door as well to help prevent it from absorbing moisture.

The substantial weight of a wooden door adds a sense of security and sturdiness to your home.

Wood doors are most at home with traditional American styles, including Colonial, Cottage & Craftsman, Ranch, Split Level and Victorian.

Features:

  • Naturally warm and elegant
  • Classic choice for historic or traditional homes
  • Best used in entryways that are sheltered from the elements
  • Available in premium-grade hardwoods and pine, with a broad choice of stains
  • Durable finishes help maintain and preserve beauty
  • Must be finished or painted on all six sides: front, back, top, bottom and sides

More on front entry doors:

House Paint 101

House Paint 101 – What you need to know about painting your home…

A gallon of paint can cost as little as $15 or well over $100. What’s the difference? The paint can labels are not very informative. Many companies don’t list their ingredients. Even when they do, you have to be a chemist to understand them.

House Paint 101
House Paint 101

For most people, the only indicator of quality is the price. If you want to know why a $60-a-gallon paint performs better than the $15-a-gallon stuff, you have to ask questions.

But first you should know a few paint facts

From the time the cave murals in France were made, about 30,000 years ago, paint has had three primary components: pigments, binder, and solvent. The pigments, usually ground into powder, provide the color.

The binder is the glue that holds the pigment particles together and to the wall. The solvent is the liquid in which the binder and pigment are mixed so that they can be applied to a wall. When the solvent dries, a thin, colored film remains.

house-tool-belt

The cave muralists used powdered pigments made from minerals and charcoal. Their binder was animal fat, their solvent water. Today some pigments are still made from minerals, but most are synthetic compounds. For latex, the most commonly used interior house paint, the binder is a synthetic resin, but the solvent is still water.

Although some paint companies might suggest that the water from a nearby mineral spring enhances their product, all water used in today’s latex paints is essentially the same. The variables that determine quality and price are the binders and pigments.

At first, both the cheap and the expensive paints will look beautiful. The more expensive ones may offer more color choices, but most paint manufacturers offer more than enough for most people.

The differences begin to emerge after the job is finished and you start using the space. No matter how conscientious you are, the walls will get dirty. There will be smudges around the light switches, those stray bits of mustard that went everywhere when you tried to squeeze the last drop out of the bottle, and those dirty little splatters from your dog shaking off rain before you could grab a towel.

In 10 years, the $60-a-gallon wall, which can be cleaned, will still look good. The $15-a-gallon one may have been repainted three times because when you tried to clean it, the color came off or the stain couldn’t be removed.

How do the binders and pigments produce these results?

Latex paints at both ends of the price spectrum have a white pigment base to which colorants are added. At the low end, the white pigment is made of titanium dioxide with clay, calcium carbonate (commonly called chalk) or some other inexpensive filler. It can have good “hide”, and completely obscure whatever was on the wall before, but it wears off easily, as you will discover if you accidentally rub up against it or try to clean it.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

At the high end, the pigment will be made entirely of titanium dioxide, which is much more durable but much more expensive. Titanium dioxide also reflects light better; to the discerning eye, the color looks brighter and more vibrant.

Latex binders at the high end are made of pure acrylic, which adheres well and holds the pigment particles tightly against the wall. The labels of the cheaper paints may say “latex acrylic,” but the binder is mostly or entirely vinyl acrylic, which does not adhere as well. The most inexpensive paints use less binder, so they adhere even more poorly.

Within the categories of pigments and binders, there are gradations of quality. The acrylic binders in the most expensive paints will be more finely ground and more tightly packed, which makes the paint more stain-resistant and better adhering.

Even the best colors are not perfect

Darker colors can be problematic at every price because their production requires less pigment base and more colorant. As a result, the finished paint film will be soft, with less staying power. When you try to remove a spot, you may leave burnish marks, and some color may come off.

The problem lies in the colorants, which were initially formulated to be used with oil-based paints. These paints, once a staple, are not commonly used anymore in many areas for environmental reasons.

Benjamin Moore’s new $60-a-gallon Aura line claims to have solved this problem with a new colorant system that was formulated to be used with water-based paint.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

The distinctions between binders, pigments and dyes are not the ones that you are likely to hear when you go to buy paint. The differences emphasized by most salespeople are the finishes — flat, eggshell and satin. Those are produced by using different sizes of pigment and binder particles.

A flat finish is more porous while eggshell and satin finishes are more impermeable and cleanable (though this is a relative term)

A cheaper satin is more impervious than a cheaper flat, but the pricey flat will perform better than either of the cheap ones. In kitchens and bathrooms, where there will most certainly be water and dirt, you are always advised to use a more impermeable eggshell or satin, even with the $60-a-gallon paint.

The salespeople may also talk about “coverage” — the area of the wall that a gallon will cover. The industry average is 400 square feet, but the most expensive paints can cover more area, so you may need fewer gallons to do the job.

 

Roofing Shingles

Roofing Shingles: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

What you need to know about roofing shingles

If you’re buying a tract-built house, the chances are close to 100 per cent that the roof will be asphalt shingles, the most cost efficient roofing material currently available.

Roofing Shingles

The builder will ask you to pick one from a selection of colors and grades displayed on sample boards. But if you’re like most people, you’ll find it hard to imagine what a few pieces of asphalt encrusted shingles will look like 15 to 30 feet from the ground and replicated 1,600 to 2,000 times.

It’s much easier if you start with the big picture. When you pull back for that big pan shot, you’ll see that the slope of the roof is its defining characteristic.

If the slope of the roof on your new house will be shallow, 15 degrees or less, the roof will not be a strong visual element. Looking at it from the ground, you’ll see the leading edges of the shingles and their overall color more than the shingles themselves or their pattern. Picking a good quality shingle that keeps out the elements without going overboard on looks is a reasonable strategy.

But given the housing styles that are popular today, it’s more likely that the roof on your new house will have a much steeper slope and be a prominent architectural feature.

If you’re considering that perennial favorite, the Cape Cod, half the front elevation will be the roof. In both theses cases, the shingle pattern will be very visible, and the roof itself will be the first thing those resale buyers will see as they drive down the street towards your house.

For resale, looks count.

In the world of asphalt shingles, there are two types, “3 tab” and “dimensional,” also called “architectural” and “laminate.” A 3-tab shingle has two notches cut into the lower edge so that when it’s laid on a roof it looks like three smaller shingles. Seen from below, 3-tab shingles have a very distinguishable repetitive pattern.

This type of shingle costs less than a dimensional type, but its precise pattern requires more time to install. Thus, it is less favored by roofing crews who are usually paid by the number of shingles they install, not by the hour.

For a shallow pitch roof, however, the three tabs is a reasonable choice.

A “dimensional” or “laminate” shingle has extra pieces of shingle laminated to it that give the appearance of thickness and texture when seen from below.

There is no discernible shingle pattern so that it can be installed more quickly than the 3-tab type. Besides the real shadow line created by the added thickness of the extra pieces, most manufacturers embellish this with artificial shadow lines created by the artful placement of colored granules.

The thickest and most expensive dimensional shingles, which usually carry the designation “40-year shingles,” often have two artificial shadow lines plus an overall subtle texturing of the shingle.

The “30 years” dimensional shingle has only one fake shadow line, less subtle blending of the granule colors, and the shingle is not as thick.

The least expensive, “25 years” dimensional shingle, which many tract builders offer as standard, has a less pronounced shadow line, and its thinner shingle creates less of a three-dimensional effect.

To give consumers more choices, some shingle manufacturers also sell a less expensive 3-tab textured shingle with a fake shadow line.

When viewed up close on a sample board, only the shingle manufacturer’s artifice will be apparent. To get an idea of what the shingles will look like when viewed from afar, you need to find a finished house with a roof that has a similar size and slope.

The other consideration when choosing an asphalt shingle is longevity–how many years can it shed water and keep the rest of your house dry? Assuming that the roof has an adequate slope and is installed correctly, this will depend on the local climate and how much asphalt, the key waterproofing ingredient, is on the shingle.

Shingles were once differentiated by weight, which indicated the amount of asphalt in the shingle. Then, about 20 years ago, as more and more manufacturers switched to making shingles with fiberglass cores that did not require as much “black gold,” they began to categorize shingles by their projected years of useful life.

Since there is no industry-wide standard for what constitutes “40 years,” “30 years” and so forth, this designation has been left to individual manufacturers to determine.

In the absence of manufacturing precision, some explanation of asphalt shingle mechanics may be helpful.

  • The key factors are time and temperature.
  • The hotter asphalt becomes on your roof and the longer it stays hot, the shorter its useful life will be.
  • Even seemingly benign weather will heat up a roof.
  • When the air temperature is a mere 75 degrees, the roof surface can easily reach 140 to 160 degrees.
  • The heat causes the asphalt to expand; the hotter it gets and the longer it stays warm, the longer it will be in a “stretched” position. When the sun goes down, the asphalt contracts back into its original position.

The UV rays of the sun are problematic as well, attacking the asphalt and causing it to become brittle and cracked. The granules–those pulverized stones or glazed ceramic pieces that give a shingle its color–function as a “UV umbrella” to shield the asphalt from the sun.

Eventually after several thousand heating and cooling cycles, the asphalt loses its ability to contract back into its original shape, and the granules start to fall out, exposing the asphalt underneath to the sun.

How many years does it take for a roof to look bad? Climate clearly affects low long a given manufacturer’s “25-year” shingle will last; so will its color.

Since the staying power of the granules is a critical factor, a quick, but telling test no matter where you live is to run a quarter across the granules on a builder’s sample. If a lot come off, it’s not a great shingle, and you should question the quality of the other materials the builder is using.

The core material in the shingle can affect its longevity. In the northern areas, which experience extreme freeze-thaw conditions, some roofers prefer an older style asphalt shingle with an organic mat core instead of a fiberglass one.

Before you pick one of the shingles that your builders offers, consult with several local roofers and building supply stores.

Brick and Stone Home - Is It More Energy Efficient?

Brick and Stone Home – Is It More Energy Efficient?

How Can Brick And Stone Make Your Home Energy Efficient

A home thatís energy-efficient is healthier and more cost efficient. Energy efficiency modifications in your home can eliminate or at least lessen the poor quality of air thatís brought in by various weather conditions. One way to make your home energy efficient is to pay attention to the building materials and the house design.

Brick and Stone Home - Is It More Energy Efficient?
Brick and Stone Home – Is It More Energy Efficient?

In North America, bricks have long been recognized as commonly chosen building materials. In fact, nearly 40% of the built houses in the said place are constructed using bricks. Because of the campaign to decrease energy consumption in its entire forms, there are building regulations these days that require the newly built houses to be more energy efficient. Well, there are some things you need to know to come up with an informed choice.

Think about the amount of energy that ís usually consumed in your home. Maybe, you’ll be surprised to find out that a large part of the home energy is used up in cooling and heating. Cooking and lighting, even when put together, comprise only a few percent. Hence, anything that can help lessen the cooling and heating bills of your home will be good investment, right? But the question is, do you think it is possible to cut down cooling and heating energy consumption while keeping up a practical thermal comfort inside your home? It is in this case that passive design comes into play.

Passive design handles the energy coming from the sun to improve the houseís cooling and heating in a natural way. There are four major principles in passive design. These are orientation, ventilation insulation, and thermal mass.

Orientation

The huge glass portion in the north part allows the low winter sun in. And to block the high summer sun, simple shading like eaves is applied.

Ventilation

When the crest of summer time has already passed, air is permitted to get in and go out of the house to make it cool in a natural manner. To optimize cross ventilation, the either side of the building or the house have generous openings with almost negligible internal obstructions.

Insulation

The insulation in the wall and ceiling serves as the obstacle to heat transportation. Insulation efficiency can be calculated using its R-value, but it doesnít present the whole issue. Various walls may have the same R-value but may not work the same.

Thermal Mass

Wall materials that are dense and cumbersome, like bricks, suck up the heat and hamper its conveyance through the walls. Through these, temperature changes become moderate, and the heat absorption during summer is significantly hampered. Compared to brick walls, the lightweight materials have very low thermal mass. And because of this thermal mass, brick walls turn out to be more capable of moderating home temperature even if they have similar R-values.

Now come to think of thermal mass and consider brick stone. The first two techniques in the passive design, which are orientation and ventilation, need to be set up into the house. And your home material preference has a major effect on the quantity of thermal mass in a house or building. One of the simplest and most economical ways to put up thermal mass is through bricks. Those bricks that are made from clay contain very high thermal mass. They are available to make your home well ventilated, comfortable and more energy efficient.

There is research proving the idea that Brick stone homes are energy efficient. The said research has revealed that a large part of the heat is bounced back to the outside environment via the brickís exterior panel. Another conclusion that came out is that in the summertime, the temperature inside a home thatís constructed from bricks remained favorable and comfortable in spite of the changing temperature outside.

The US Department of Energy stated that thermal mass stores up the heat by means of converting its temperature. It can be achieved by storing heat coming from a warm room or by means or transforming direct solar radiation into heat. And since brick stone has more thermal mass than other building lightweight materials, it is a very useful element that can be used up in making your home more energy efficient.

To sum up, brick is a very simple and inexpensive technique for putting up thermal mass in your next home. Therefore, a brick stone home is more energy efficient than those that are made from other materials.

Another New House For Sale

Home Siding Types for Exteriors

Wood Siding with Cultured Stone Siding
Wood and Cultured Stone Siding

Home Siding Types for Exteriors

By Elizabeth Weintraub

The kind of siding on your home should accentuate the character and design of your home. For example, you wouldn’t install vinyl siding on a Victorian home, but misguided homeowners do it. Nor would you expect to find expensive redwood on a home exposed to the elements of the sea, but builders often cater to those with more money than common sense.
When home shopping — whether you are a first-time home buyer or veteran — pay attention to the condition of the siding. It’s expensive and time-consuming to replace or repair siding, costing anywhere from a few dollars to $30 or more per square foot. The lifespan of various types of siding will depend on the climate where you live. Home siding can require periodic painting or restaining and, in the event of wild temperature swings, some types of siding can crack through expansion and contraction.

Here are four good reasons to replace siding:

  • Change the appearance.
Little spruces up a home and changes its desirability more than new siding.
  • Increase future resale value.
New siding offers a benefit to home buyers because it extends the life of an exterior.
  • Lower utility bills.
Adding insulation under siding provides a moisture barrier and prevents outside temperatures from disturbing the balance of interior climates.
  • Decrease maintenance costs.
The life expectancy of, say, a new paint job is at least five years, and quality paints are touted by manufacturers to last 10 to 20 years. New siding requires little, if any, maintenance.

Brick Exteriors

Brick can last a century. Because it’s made from fired clay, brick doesn’t burn and is not susceptible to dry rot. If the brick is not part of your original structure, then adding brick is typically accomplished by installing a brick veneer, also known as the brick face, which are not full complete brick blocks. Maintenance of actual brick involves repointing; that is replacing mortar in between the bricks. Mortar is a mixture of cement, water, lime and sand.

Stucco Exteriors

Stucco can be applied by a variety of methods, but hand-troweled is considered to be the best. It can be smooth, rough or somewhere in between. Stucco needs to be water tight. If water seeps under the stucco, it will separate the material from the home. In a virgin application, stucco is spread over wire mesh, wood slats, paper, and sheathing. Like mudding, drying in between coats is recommended. Re-stuccoing is permissible over original stucco.

Vinyl Siding

Vinyl siding is made of PVC or polyvinyl chloride and comes in a variety of colors. The panels are installed from the bottom row up by nailing galvanized roofing nails through the slots in the panel, exposing the nail head so the panels can move. The vinyl expands and contracts in hot and cold weather and must slide freely from side to side. Two main advantages to vinyl are it’s inexpensive and never needs painting.

Aluminum Siding

It’s hard to tell the differences between aluminum siding and vinyl without touching it as they look similar to each other. Aluminum siding became popular after World War II; however, the color can fade and, unlike vinyl, aluminum can be dented. It also expands and contracts, depending on temperature. Aluminum siding can be painted, and experts recommend oil-based paint over latex

Wood Siding

Wood siding is manufactured in a variety of types such as shake, clapboard, singles or lap. Panels are applied vertically or horizontally, and finishes range from stains to paint to sealants. Wood siding should be installed over a moisture barrier, and some contractors suggest priming the back of the wood and its sides to prevent water from seeping into the wood. Although wood is beautiful, it requires maintenance and can rot.

Log Siding

Covering the exterior of your home with log siding can make it look like a log home without rebuilding the home. Log siding comes in quarter logs and half logs. The finishes are smooth, knotted or, for that authentic log-home appearance, hand-hewn. Some log siding isn’t even wood, but resembles wood and is available in vinyl or steel. Common wood choices for log siding are pine or cedar.

Glass Block Exteriors

Glass block walls are non-load bearing. They are laid by installing panel anchors to the jambs; expansion strips around the opening and panel reinforcing wire stabilizers every third or fourth row. Blocks are set into a special mortar made for glass. The maximum recommended size of a glass block wall is about 20 pounds per square foot or 144 square feet. I have a glass block wall in my home, which lets in light, but it does show interior shadows from the street. Routine exterior caulking is suggested.

Composite Siding

Manufactured siding can be created from almost any material and made to resemble natural wood. Some composite siding is made from shredded wood, binders, glue and Portland cement. James Hardie is a well-known manufacturer of fiber-cement products — built to withstand rain, wind, hail and insects — and this siding is available in a variety of colors, boasting a limited 50-year warranty. Habitat for Humanity builds many homes with HardiBoard.

Stone Siding

Stone has been used for centuries. Today’s stone siding products are natural or simulated. Artificial stone faces are lighter and easier to install. Of all the siding options available, stone siding is the most expensive. Most applications support a first layer, which is wall sheathing, covered by a waterproof paper on top of which metal lath is secured. Then the stone is set into the mortar and laid.