Geothermal Heating

How Much Does a Geothermal System Cost in 2025?

Explore the true cost of geothermal systems in 2025 with humor and practical advice. From installation to long-term savings, we break down everything you need to know.

Geothermal Heating

Is Geothermal Heating Affordable in 2025? Let’s Break Down the Costs

If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to harness the Earth’s natural energy to heat your home, welcome to the wild, wallet-busting, and wonderfully efficient world of geothermal systems. But let’s be real—you’re probably asking, “How much does a geothermal system cost in 2025?” Well, strap in, because we’re about to dive deep (literally) into the costs, quirks, and potential savings of going geothermal. Spoiler alert: it’s not cheap upfront, but your future self will thank you.

1. The Bottom Line: What’s the Damage?

In 2025, installing a geothermal system isn’t exactly pocket change. Depending on your home size, location, and whether you have a penchant for gold-plated heat pumps (just kidding… or are we?), you’re looking at anywhere from $15,000 to $38,000 for an average-sized home.

But don’t let that number scare you—think of it as an investment. You’re not just buying a heating system; you’re buying peace of mind, lower energy bills, and a smug sense of environmental superiority.

Quick Cost Snapshot:

System TypeCost Range (USD)
Horizontal Loop System$15,000 to $30,000
Vertical Loop System$25,000 to $40,000
Open Loop System$10,000 to $30,000
Closed Loop System$25,000 to $30,000

And if you’re building a mansion or want the Tesla of geothermal systems, costs can soar to $80,000. But hey, who needs a second yacht anyway?

2. What’s Driving Up the Cost?

You might be thinking, “Why does digging a few holes cost as much as a small car?” Great question. Here are the culprits behind those hefty price tags:

A. Home Size: Bigger Isn’t Always Better (for Your Wallet)

  • The Bigger the House, the Bigger the Bill: If you’ve got a sprawling 5,000 sq. ft. palace, expect your geothermal system to cost more than your neighbor’s cozy cottage.
  • Pro Tip: Smaller homes can sometimes get away with less extensive (read: cheaper) systems. Minimalism, anyone?

B. Loop System Type: Choose Your Adventure

  1. Horizontal Loop:
  • Cost: $15,000 to $30,000
  • Perfect For: Big yards and shallow pockets (relatively speaking).
  • Catch: You’ll need enough yard space to land a small plane.
  1. Vertical Loop:
  • Cost: $25,000 to $40,000
  • Perfect For: Urban lots or anyone who doesn’t want their backyard to look like a construction site.
  • Catch: Drilling deep costs more—unless you’re digging to find buried treasure.
  1. Open Loop:
  • Cost: $10,000 to $30,000
  • Perfect For: Properties with access to groundwater.
  • Catch: You’ll need clean water sources and a knack for environmental regulations.
  1. Closed Loop:
  • Cost: $25,000 to $30,000
  • Perfect For: Consistency and efficiency lovers.
  • Catch: More expensive but less maintenance. Like a luxury car, but underground.

C. Location, Location, Location

  • Soil Conditions: Rocky ground? More like rocky costs.
  • Property Accessibility: If your backyard is more “jungly” than suburban, prepare to pay extra.
  • Local Geology: Soft soil = easy digging = cheaper installation. Hard bedrock = bring out the big drills (and big bills).

3. Breaking Down the Bill: Where Does Your Money Go?

Let’s peel back the layers and see where your hard-earned cash is going:

For a 2,000 sq. ft. Home:

ComponentCost Range
Excavation$2,000 to $5,000 (horizontal loops); $10,000+ (vertical loops)
Ductwork$5,000 to $10,000
Labor$4,000 to $10,000
System Hardware$8,000 to $15,000

Bonus Expenses (a.k.a. Surprise! Fees):

  • Ductwork Modifications: Add up to $5,000 if your home needs a ductwork facelift.
  • Permits and Inspections: Depending on your municipality, expect to fork over another $1,000 or more.

4. Long-Term Savings: The Light at the End of the Geothermal Tunnel

Okay, you’ve made it past the sticker shock. Now let’s talk savings. Because, yes, geothermal systems cost a small fortune upfront, but they’ll save you a bigger fortune in the long run.

The Numbers Don’t Lie:

CategorySavings
Heating Bills30% to 70% reduction annually
Cooling Costs20% to 50% reduction
Water Heating (with desuperheater)50% reduction

Real-World Example:

Meet Joe from Sudbury. Joe spent $30,000 on a geothermal system in 2020. By 2025, he was saving $2,000 annually on heating and cooling. By 2040, Joe had saved enough to retire early—or at least buy that vintage Zamboni he’s always wanted.

5. Are There Any Government Incentives?

Good news, fellow Canadian! The government doesn’t want you freezing your toes off, so there are plenty of incentives to ease the pain of upfront costs.

  • Federal Incentives: The Canada Greener Homes Grant offers up to $5,000 back for energy-efficient retrofits.
  • Provincial Rebates: Ontario’s Clean Energy program covers up to 30% of your geothermal installation.
  • Local Bonuses: Some municipalities even throw in property tax breaks. Cheers to that!

6. Geothermal vs. Traditional HVAC: The Ultimate Showdown

FeatureGeothermalTraditional HVAC
Upfront Cost$15,000 – $38,000$5,000 – $12,000
Annual Energy Costs$1,200 – $1,800$3,200 – $4,500
MaintenanceLow (5-year intervals)Medium (annual servicing)
Lifespan25+ years10-15 years
Carbon FootprintTiny (go, Earth!)Big (boo, emissions!)

7. FAQs: You’re Still Wondering, We’re Still Answering

Q1: Can geothermal systems heat my pool too?

Absolutely! And it’ll do it so efficiently, your pool will be toasty while your wallet stays cool.

Q2: Is my home too old for geothermal?

Unless your home predates indoor plumbing, probably not. Retrofits might cost more, but they’re totally doable.

Q3: Do geothermal systems work in the winter?

You bet! In fact, they thrive in cold climates—because the Earth’s core doesn’t care about Canadian winters.

Conclusion: Is Geothermal Worth It in 2025?

In a word? Yes. But it’s not just about dollars and cents. It’s about investing in your home, your planet, and never having to argue over the thermostat again. So, if you’re ready to take the plunge (and maybe dig a few holes), geothermal is calling your name.

Now that you know how much a geothermal system costs in 2025, are you ready to make the switch? Or at least ready to impress your friends with your newfound geothermal knowledge? Either way, we’re here for it.

For more home-building insights and energy-efficient tips, visit BuildersOntario.com—where we turn construction chaos into cozy homes.

Septic System Cost - Ontario

How Much Will a Septic System Cost in Ontario

Download Ontario Septic Permit Application Here!

Before discussing Septic System Cost in Ontario, we first need to explain what is a septic system and why is it important.

Septic System Cost - Ontario

Homes that aren’t connected to a municipal sewage system require an on-site septic system. The purpose of the septic system is to clean and purify human and household waste and return the filtered water back to nature.

In general, there are two main parts; a septic tank, and an absorption system, also called a drain field, leach field, or disposal field. These are located underground and connected to the house by sewage pipes.

To function well, the system must be designed to work with the number of bedrooms in the house, the size of the home, the layout of the site, and the composition of the soil that will handle the septic field.

The price of your septic is also highly dependent on the soil type. The drain field does not need to be as large for permeable soil conditions as it does for less porous soils.

Because of that, it is hard to accurately pinpoint the cost of any septic system. The only sure way to find out is to get some competing quotes. However, in the article below, we will give you valuable information that will help you figure out the costs.

So, What Is The Average Septic System Cost In Ontario?

There’s no way around it. Installing a new septic system is expensive. Sadly, there’s no generic answer to how much a septic system will cost. It will fluctuate in price depending on the following factors:

1. Soil Composition: It is much cheaper to build a septic system on sand than on the rock. Fine, silty soils require more drain field and are riskier to build due to slightly higher failure rates. Ultimately, the soil percolation test will need to be performed to determine the absorption rate of your soil.

2. The level of underground water: If you have a high water level on your lot, you will need to raise your septic field. That usually includes importing septic sand and installing a pump.

3. The size of the home and number of bedrooms: It should be self-explanatory that a septic system for a seven-bedroom mansion in the country will cost more than for the 1000 square feet cottage.

4. The type of septic system: There are many different types as there are costs. (More below).

5. Engineering costs: In some parts of southern Ontario, a qualified engineer and septic system contractor will be required to get the necessary health and sanitary permits, appropriate excavation at the site, and permission or approval from local building or planning officials. Some townships also require soil analysis.

6. The installer: Prices for the same job vary from installer to installer depending on their suppliers, job loads, etc.

7. The proximity of materials to your building site: Septic systems need a lot of materials to be trucked in. This includes a concrete tank, septic sand, clear stone, etc.

Ontario Building Code Regulates All Septic Systems in Ontario

All residential septic systems in Ontario must be built according to the Ontario Building Code, notwithstanding how the home will be used. The septic system is engineered the same, whether the residence is full-time or seasonal, or, whether only one person is occupying the house or four of them. The system must be built to meet the maximum use likelihood of the home, in the event, the property is sold, or changed from seasonal use to a year-round residence.

The guide below has been put together to assist you with understanding the minimum Ontario Building Code regulations for residential septic systems. You will be able to figure out what kind of septic system you need and approximate costs. Local governing health or building authorities may have additional by-laws in place requiring other design requirements.

First, let’s figure out what kind of system do you need:

All residential septic systems that are within a single lot and rated to accept a total daily flow rate of less than 10,000 L must abide by the Ontario Building Code. The two main items that dictate the size and design of a septic system in Ontario are the maximum daily flow rate and soil and site conditions.

How To Calculate Daily Flow Rate

All daily flow rate calculations start with the number of bedrooms. Most people believe it is based on the number of bathrooms or current occupants, but that is not the case.

The Ontario Building Code implies that for every bedroom, two people could be living in the home. The average daily use per person is 275 litres, and therefore, the maximum daily flow could be around 550 litres per bedroom.

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Ontario Building Code Bedroom Rate:

1 Bedroom – 750 litres
2 Bedrooms – 1100 litres
3 Bedrooms – 1600 litres
4 Bedrooms – 2000 litres
5 Bedrooms – 2500 litres
More than five bedrooms – you need a professional engineer

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Apart from the bedroom rate, you have to determine the number of fixtures, bathrooms, sinks, toilettes, etc.

If the total fixture count is greater than 20, then 50 litres per additional unit will need to be added to the bedroom rate.

The chart below will help you figure out the number of fixtures:

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Fixtures and their value:

Bathroom group (toilet, sink, tub) – number of fixtures 6
½ Bathroom – number of fixtures 5
Kitchen sink – number of fixtures 1.5
Garburator – number of fixtures 3
Clothes washer – number of fixtures 1.5
Dishwasher – number of fixtures 1
Laundry tub – number of fixtures 1.5
Additional tub – number of fixtures 2
Additional shower – number of fixtures 2
Additional sink – number of fixtures 1.5
Additional toilet – number of fixtures 4
Floor Drain – number of fixtures 2

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If your total is greater than 20, calculate the additional flow of 50 L for each added fixture. Round up for each half. For example, if your total is 22 1/2, then you may have to add 150 L to the base bedroom rate.

The Bedroom Rate:

The total living area will also need to be calculated to add additional litres per day to the base bedroom rate. The living area includes all living space, excluding the basement.

To the “bedroom rate,” you will need to add the higher of these numbers, as opposed to adding both together.

First, you will need to figure out if the living space is exceeding the included limit of 200 square meters (2152 sq.ft.). For every 10 square meters of living space over 200 square meters, you will need to add 100 litres to a max of 400 square meters. If your house is larger than 400 square meters, consult an engineer.

Once you have determined the living space and fixture count flow rates, whichever is greater is added to the base “bedroom rate.”

Example:

Let’s find the maximum daily flow rate for a four-bedroom home with three full bathrooms, extra sink in ensuite, kitchen sink, washer, laundry tub, dishwasher and total living space of 305 square meters (3282 square feet).

The base bedroom rate for four bedrooms is 2000 Liters. You have to figure out if you have to add to it.

Lets do the math: 3 full bathrooms = 18 + kitchen sink = 19.5 + extra sink = 21 + washer = 22.5 + laundry tub = 24 + dishwasher = 25.5.

So, for every fixture unit over 20, we have to add 50 litres.

Next, you need to figure out the combined flow rate due to living space over 200 square meters. There are an extra 104 square meters, and therefore, the added flow would be: 10.4 x 100 = 1,100 litres (rounded).

So, the largest of the living space – fixture count is 1,100 litres. That number has to be added to the 2000 litres bedroom rate so that the maximum daily flow (Q) will be 3100 litres.

The size of the septic tank is defined by this figure. The septic tank must be twice the daily flow, but no less than 3600 litres, except where a garburator is installed. In that case, the volume must be three times the daily flow. For the purpose of this example (without garburator), the size of the tank = 6200 litres or approximately 1400 imperial gallons.

How Site Conditions Determine The Size Of Septic Field

Now that we determined the daily flow rate, another detail we have to figure out is the rate at which the treated wastewater is absorbed into the ground. That is called a “T-time.” “T-time” is the number of minutes it takes for the water level to drop one centimetre in a test hole.

In sandy soils, “T-time” is usually less than 10. This means that it takes less than 10 minutes for the water level to drop 1 cm in the water-filled hole.

If you are dealing with clay soils, the “T-time” could be 50 or more as the small soil particles are slowing the rate of absorption.

Once the Daily Flow number and the “T-time” are identified, you can then figure out how large the septic field has to be.

Different systems have different equations to figure out the size of a septic bed.

As an example; Let’s take the most common drain field installed in Southern Ontario, a gravity-powered, conventional trench bed.

Total Trench Length would be decided by multiplying the daily flow rate by T time and multiplying by 200. (Q X T time) / 200.

For our house example, the total trench length would be calculated as (Q rate = 3100 litres) 3100 X 10 (T time for sandy soils) = 31000 / 200 = 155 meters of total excavation and pipe length.

If your “T-time” is = 50 or greater, regular runs can not be installed. A raised bed or “Advanced Treatment System” will need to be placed instead. A raised bed may require importing septic sand at the rate of $200 – $300 per truckload.

In general, gravity-powered sand filter beds (bottom right) are the least expensive. In most parts of Ontario, you can get such a system installed for $10,000 – $15,000.

The conventional gravity trench system (bottom left), for a three-bedroom house, on a level site, in good soil, can vary considerably depending on where you live, but it should be roughly between $10,000 to $20,000 depending on soil composition.

Sand filter bed

So, how much will your septic system cost?

To break it down, we will consider the costs and materials associated with the building of a traditional, single-family home, septic tank and a system using the gravity design.

A standard system will include:

Tank: It can be made of concrete, fibreglass or polyethylene and come in a variety of sizes. The most popular one is concrete, and these will cost around $1,300 to $2,500 depending upon size and installer.

Clear Stone: The amount of gravel required will vary by the soil type of the site and the overall landscape. The average cost of clean drain gravel at the time of this writing is between $30 and $50 per ton plus trucking time – approximately 2-3 truckloads.

Piping: This will vary according to the size and design of the system. Usually, around $20 per length for a 3″ perforated pipe.

Excavation equipment time: Usually, from $100 to $150 per hour.

conventional septic bed

Additional considerations and costs

If the area of your property receiving the leaching bed is hard to access and trees, rocks, or fencing must be removed, it will also add to the price.

You will also need to factor in the cost of sod or grass in the area after the septic installation is done.

The permitting costs: should not exceed $1,500 in fees for design and permit.

Like all larger home projects, the installation of a septic system should follow a pattern of soliciting several bids from qualified installers.

It is important to ask for references and proof of adequate liability insurance for a project such as this, and the work and materials should also have some guarantee or warranty as well.

Often an installer can even provide some maintenance agreement that will see the system pumped every one to three years and inspected annually.

Canadian Septic Discusses this subject here: https://www.canadianseptic.com/understanding-septic-system-pricing/

Pumping of your septic tank:

Remember, if you want a relatively trouble-free and long-lasting septic system, get your septic tank pumped on a regular basis.

How frequently you pump your septic system is determined mostly by the number of people living in the home. For an average-sized 2000 sq ft three bedrooms home the following timetable is suggested for pumping septic tanks:

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1 Person: Every seven years
2 People: Every six years
3 People: Every five years
4 People: Every 3-4 years
5 People: Every two years
6+ People and over: Every year

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Septic Systems in Ontario

What You Need To Know About Septic Systems Before Purchasing A Building Lot in Ontario

septic

Planning to purchase a lot to build a home in Ontario?

Before you do anything else, check if a public sewer system is available? If not, you will need a septic system to treat and dispose of sewage from the home you plan to build.

What type of septic system you will need, how it will be designed and constructed depends on the particular lot, how much space you have, the characteristics of the surrounding land and the make-up of the soil.

Whatever type, all septic systems require careful attention to design, construction, operation, and maintenance.

The septic system typically consists of a septic tank buried in the ground and a drain-field that can fit within the front or back yard of the home-site.

Septic Systems in Ontario
Septic System

Household discharge from the kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry room flow directly into the septic tank where the solids are retained and separated from the liquid. The liquid waste flows out of the tank through a series of pipes to where it is slowly released into the leaching field where it leaches through the soil and is purified before reaching the groundwater.

The leaching bed is made up of porous materials, such as sand and gravel, and acts as a filter to clean the water before it seeps back into the ground.

septic-tank
septic-tank

Light solids, such as soap suds and fat, float to the top and form a scum layer. This layer remains on top and gradually thickens until you have the tank cleaned.

Unfortunately, not all soils can absorb wastewater or purify it.

Septic systems that are installed in unsuitable soils usually malfunction by leaking raw, untreated sewage to the surface of the ground or a roadside ditch, or by contaminating the groundwater. The sewage may contain deadly bacteria and viruses.

It can be expensive to remedy the odor problems and potential health hazards that result from the use of septic systems in unsuitable soil.

Because of that, the Ontario Building Code requires an expansive soil and site assessment by the local health department to determine the suitability of the soils and topography of the lot.

Setbacks For Septic in Ontario
Setbacks For Septic in Ontario

Reviewing the Lot

If a septic system is needed, walk over the lot and look for indications of soil problems or site limitations that could affect the performance of a septic system.

Consider the following before you purchase a lot:

  • Is there enough space on the lot for the home, the septic system, and water well (if needed)?
  • Is the land next to a stream or river that could flood it?
  • Does the area seem wet and swampy?
  • Is there a bedrock that can interfere with the septic system?
  • Determine the type of soil on the lot by digging a two 5 foot holes where your field is to be situated
  • Find out what type of septic system, if any, will work on those soils.
  • Obtain a cost estimate for installing the kind of septic system you need.
  • Ask about the operating requirements and maintenance costs for the system.
  • Your well and all neighbors’ wells should be 100 feet or further from the septic system.
  • There must also be enough land for a “repair area” that can be used if the system needs expansion or replacement in the future.

Septic Systems in Ontario

Part 8: “Sewage Systems” of the Ontario Building Code (OBC) regulates the design, construction, operation and maintenance of on-site septic systems for most single-family homes. In most areas, the local municipality’s Building Department examines plans, issues permits, and does inspections for systems regulated under the OBC. In some regions, this approval responsibility has been delegated to local Conservation Authorities or Health Units. The Municipal Building Department will be able to redirect inquiries.

Proper approvals under the OBC must be obtained by the homeowner before installing any of the suggestions for improving system performance.

Download: Septic Smart – Understanding Your Home Septic System

The capacity of the Septic System

The two primary elements that command the size and complexity of a system in Ontario are the maximum amount of wastewater that the building could produce on a daily basis, and soil/site conditions.

Case in point; a small one-bedroom /one-bathroom house would have a maximum daily flow rate of about 750 liters.  If that system were being located in soils with a high absorption rate, then the system could be quite small and be installed at a reasonable cost.

On the other hand, if it is a huge five bedrooms home with a maximum daily flow rate of 2500 Liters and clay soil (which can only absorb 4 liters, per square meter, per day) then the cost could be enormous because a lot of sand would need to be trucked in.

It is almost impossible to determine how much a septic system is going to cost without visiting the property to assess the available space, access for large equipment, cleanup needs, etc.

The capacity of Septic System in Ontario Explained

Types of Septic Systems

The kinds of soil and site conditions on the land determine whether the local health department can issue a septic permit, as well as the type of septic system needed there.

The conventional septic system, with a septic tank and a number of trenches buried 2 to 3 feet deep, is used at almost one-half of the homesites with septic systems in Ontario.

It works well in brightly colored (red or brown), thick, loamy-textured soils with deep water tables. This type of system is relatively inexpensive; the average installation cost ranges from $7,500 to $10,000.

On some soils that are too wet or too shallow for a conventional septic system, a modified standard system or an alternative septic system may be used.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Advanced Treatment Systems – Alternative Septic System

If a conventional system cannot be used, you may wish to determine the installation cost and maintenance costs of the alternative septic system that can be used.

Advantages of alternative systems:

  • used on sites not suited for conventional septic systems
  • need much smaller septic fields
  • have the potential to remove significantly more bacteria and organic material than a conventional septic system
  • may extend the life of an existing leaching bed
  • take up less room in the yard
  • may reduce nutrient output (depending on the type)

Disadvantages

  • more expensive to purchase and install
  • are more costly to operate than a conventional septic system (electrical costs, media replacement)
  • includes more mechanical parts that can break down or need replacement
  • requires mandatory maintenance (increases costs)

You may want to consider alternative septic systems when:

  • coping with lots with inadequate conditions for conventional systems
  • dealing with lots that can’t accommodate the size of a regular bed
  • replacing an old failed septic system
  • building on hard-to-access lots where transporting materials for conventional systems is costly and difficult
  • if you want to provide additional nitrate reduction that some of the advanced treatment systems provide

There are many soils that are not suitable for an alternative septic system either.

For these reasons, it is in your best interest to determine the suitability of a lot for a particular kind of septic system before purchasing the lot. If you can use a conventional system, ask about any modifications to the system or to the site that may increase the installation cost.

Also, ask whether the approval affects the number of bedrooms that can be built in the home, or the location of the house, driveway, or a swimming pool.

In any case, it is a good idea to make the purchase of a building lot conditional upon the issuance of a permit for a particular type of septic system.

Download: Advanced Treatment Systems — Alternatives to Conventional Septic Systems

Septic System Cost – Ontario

More On Septic Systems Below:

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Plumber of the Year 2015 – Awards

 

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Here at ICFhome.ca, we love a good plumbing joke.

Plumbing is the only game where a good flush beats a full house every time! So, every year we compile a list of some of our favorite bits of plumbing related humor and funny pictures to share with you.

But first you have to understand the technology:

plumber13

Our contestants for the plumber of the year were carefully monitored and medically supervised.

Disclosure: No plumber was hurt during the filming of the following scenes. But all of them should have been punched in the balls.

plumber17
How Not To Connect Pipes Under The Sink

The plumber that did the above job signed up for one of those ‘learn to be a plumber in 6 weeks’ courses you see in the papers. His final exam was at 9 am yesterday. He showed up at 3 pm, looked at the exam paper and said, “Looks like I am going to need a pen for this job – I will have to pop round to my suppliers for one. Be right back.” He came top of his class.

plumber14
Did you know that a plumber is the only profession where you get to take a leak and fix it at the same time?

The guy above was called to an upscale apartment in Toronto to repair a leaking pipe. Upon arriving, he found that the woman was dressed provocatively and seemed to be hovering around him. After a while, the two became a little friendly, and things got heated between them. At around five p.m., the phone rang, and she hurried off to answer it, returning with the bad news that her husband was on his way home. She said, “Tonight is his bowling night, so why don’t you come back around eight p.m. and we can finish this?” The plumber replied, “What, on my own time?”

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Nothing to go on

Somebody broke into the police station and stole the only toilet in the building. Right now the cops are anxious to apprehend the perpetrator but they have nothing to go on.

plumber18
Which pipe is hot water?

Plumbers never get nervous. How do we know? Well, have you ever seen a plumber biting his nails?

plumber-of-the-year-2015
This would look much better with: “Your crap is my family’s bread and butter!”

A man at an airport shows off pictures of his three sons to a friend. “What do your boys do for a living?” asked the man. “Well my youngest is a neurosurgeon, and my middle is a lawyer,” he replied. “What does the oldest do?” the man asked. The father replied, “He’s the plumber that put them through school.”

Plumber2
It was harder to do a “temporary fix” than to have set it right.

How are, a doctor and a plumber alike? They both bury their mistakes.

A doctor had a backed up toilet and knocked on his neighbour’s door in the middle of the night. The neighbour, a plumber, complained that he was sleeping, and it’s his day off, but the doctor replied, “I’m always on call!” The plumber wearily got dressed, went over to the doc’s toilet, lifted the lid, tossed in two aspirins and said, “If it’s still like this in the morning, give me a call.”

In the morning, after a two-minute job the plumber demanded $150. The doctor exclaimed, ‘I don’t charge this amount even though I am a surgeon.” The plumber replied, “I agree, you are right. I too, didn’t either, when I was a surgeon. That’s why I switched to plumbing!”

Plumber8
The plumber that did this? His career went down the toilet!

This plumber was working in a house when the lady of the house said to him, “Would it be okay for me to take a bath while you’re eating lunch?” The plumber stopped working, sat on the toilet and replied, “It’s okay with me lady, as long as you don’t splash my sandwiches.”

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Who thought of this?

On a plumber’s truck: ” We repair what your husband fixed.”

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plumber34

The following is a true story:

A plumber hobbles down the road in a cast and meets a friend. “How did you break your leg?” asked the friend “It’s like this,” he replied: “This guy had promised his wife that he would fix the sink plumbing on a particular day. That day, he realized he would need to stay late at work, so he called me. I stopped by the man’s office for the house key and went to work.

“When the wife got home, she saw my bottom half protruding from the sink cabinet. She assumed it was her husband, and proceeded to remove my trousers and give me some, special attention. 

“I was so startled I bumped my head and was knocked out. The woman pulled me out, and must have fastened my trousers and called an ambulance.

“When the medics were carrying me out, they asked what had taken place – When I told them, they laughed so hard that they dropped me. That’s when I broke my leg!” 

A few of other contestants that almost won:

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Genius!

Plumber6
Brilliant!

Plumber10
Privacy galore!

Plumber9
Feeling like a king – on the throne!

plumber19
The but of all the jokes!

 

 And the Plumber of the Year 2015 Winner is:

plumber23
Fridge from the kitchen above will come through anytime

The idiot that did the above should have been punched in the balls – twice!

Let us end with this: As you all probably know, “The Kama Sutra” has announced a new sex position. It’s called The Plumber: You stay in all day, and nobody comes!

We hope you enjoyed it! Leave us a comment letting us know your favourite, or send us a plumbing joke of your own, or just like us on Facebook.

Seat Down vs. Seat Up Argument

The Ultimate Solution To The Seat Down vs. Seat Up Argument

The folding toilet that saves water and space in the bathroom:

Seat Down vs. Seat Up Argument
Seat Down vs. Seat Up Argument

Gareth Humphreys and Elliott Whiteley, who are students at the University of Huddersfield, may have invented the toilet of the future or solved one of the age-old debates: Seat Down vs. Seat Up Argument

They call it “Iota”. It folds in after use, and its creators claim it uses 50% less water than your run-of-the-mill stationary toilet.

The Iota Toilet works by utilizing a movable bowl. When the bowl is in the down position, it can be used as usual. When finished, the entire bowl is lifted up toward the wall. In doing so, the user connects the pipes in the bowl and a powerful burst of water is released to flush the waste away.

Apart from saving water, it is also much smaller than a regular bowl so that it can fit into tiny bathrooms. It also has a rimless design that makes it easier to clean.

The Iota toilet takes up a third of the space of a standard toilet when it is folded in the upright position and not being used.

Humphreys and Whiteley also claim the toilet can reduce water use by 50 percent, with the moveable bowl initiating a 2.5-litre flush, compared to six litres for an average toilet.

The concept works based on a U-bend in the bowl that disconnects from the waste pipe when in the seated position.

Folding the toilet upright activates the flush mechanism, which in turn re-engages the U-bend and waste pipe and creates an air-tight seal that ensures the waste stays where it should be.

An internal frame supports the bowl using a sliding hinge mechanism and a nylon roller. The hinge mechanism keeps the toilet straight while the roller takes the weight of the user and transfers it through the frame to the floor.

The Iota is currently still in concept stage, but the innovative design duo have already taken steps towards selling their idea.

 Check it out bellow:

2013 PLUMBER OF THE YEAR AWARDS

ATT00001

How does this even get past the planning phase?

 

ATT00002

&%$@#

ATT00003
Hmmmmm…

ATT00004
Should have measured twice!

ATT00005
Apparently, you don’t want anyone seeing your face,
but everything else is okay?

ATT00006
The oak seat is a nice touch, though.

ATT00007
And the purpose for the door is?

ATT00008
This stall is for people that have arms like an Orangutan..

ATT00009
This would be the “half bath” noted in the real estate listing?

ATT00010
Very Classy!  And, only three steps when you’re in a hurry!

(Drum roll…)
AND THE PLUMBER OF THE YEAR AWARD GOES TO…

ATT00011

Brilliant…

FYI…ALL OF THESE PLUMBERS ARE THANKFULLY  NO LONGER IN THE BUSINESS.
IT IS HIGHLY PROBABLE THEY HAVE BEEN ELECTED TO PUBLIC OFFICE AND NOW SERVE IN VARIOUS POSITIONS IN THE CANADIAN & U.S. GOVERNMENT.

Setbacks For Septic in Ontario

Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System

Septic System
Maintaining Your Septic System

In this Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System, you will learn that the way you treat your septic system will influence how long the system lasts and how well it functions.

If you own or rent a property served by an on-site sewage system, you need to think about how your actions affect the system. You need to be careful about what substances you flush down the drain and how often your septic tank is cleaned out and inspected.

These decisions will impact on the effectiveness of your septic system and making the wrong one can lead to expensive and time-consuming problems. Sometimes, they can also result in harm to the natural environment or public health by polluting lakes or contaminating drinking water supplies.

Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System

To avoid the inconvenience and cost associated with the repair or replacement of a failed septic system, you should know how to correctly operate and maintain your septic system.

This “Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System” provides some helpful advice for property owners about the steps they can and should take to help their septic system perform well for years to come.

HOW YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM WORKS…

A typical on-site sewage system consists of two major parts: a septic tank and a leaching bed area. Septic tanks should have two chambers and are usually constructed of concrete, steel, fiberglass or polyethylene, are watertight and are buried underground.

The purpose of the septic tank is to separate solids from liquids in the wastewater stream and begin the process of breaking down contaminants. Solids settle to the bottom and scum floats to the top of the tank. This process occurs without oxygen, so the tank needs to be sealed.

Wastewater from the septic tank then flows to the leaching bed area through a distribution box or header line. Leaching beds (sometimes called tile beds, disposal areas or absorption areas) consist of underground perforated pipes or clay tiles which evenly distribute wastewater over natural soil or imported fill.

The purpose of the leaching bed is to treat further the wastewater through a process where bacteria digest and remove impurities such as suspended solids, organic chemicals, viruses, and bacteria. The leaching bed disposes of the filtered wastewater into the natural soil and, ultimately, into the groundwater.

Most owners of rural (and some suburban) properties and people who live in small communities are probably living with a septic system. Almost all cottages or recreational properties also rely upon on-site sewage disposal. Sometimes, all that can be seen of a septic system is a large grassed area with no trees, patios or paved areas. In other cases, the leaching bed area may be a raised mound on the property.

When buying a rural or cottage property, it is important that you or your lawyer determine whether a septic system exists and that it is working properly (a professional inspection may be appropriate).

If the previous owner does not have a record showing the location of the septic tank or leaching bed area, you may be able to get it from the local municipal building department, board of health or conservation authority. If there is a record of the company that installed the system, the firm may have drawings or site plans showing the location of the system. Companies that pump septic tanks can also locate access ports.

Once you have a copy of a site plan showing the location of the septic system, make sure you keep the records up to date and in a safe place for future reference.

COMMON SEPTIC SYSTEM PROBLEMS

There are some obvious signs of trouble with septic systems. These include:

  •  toilets or drains that are backed up or run more slowly than usual
  •  foul odors in the house or drinking water
  •  sogginess in the ground around the septic tank or leaching bed area
  •  surface flooding of sewage or septic tank effluent around the septic system
  •  activated alarm signals (lights or bells) on special treatment units 
  •  dosing pumps that run continuously or not at all (Note: not all systems have pumps)
  •  unusually green or thick grass growing in or on the leaching bed area
  •  significant algae growth in or around nearby lakes or water bodies
  •  high levels of nitrates, bacteria or other contaminants in well water 

Toilets and Drains are NOT Garbage Cans!

Some items you flush down a toilet or pour down a drain can significantly reduce the ability of the beneficial bacteria in a septic system to break down and treat domestic sewage. Harmful chemicals and substances will kill bacteria and render a septic system useless. Bulky or hard-to-break-down products can clog pipes, quickly fill septic tanks and decrease the effectiveness of the system. Septic tank additives/starters may be harmful to septic systems and are not necessary to begin or continue septic tank operation.

NEVER put the following items or substances into a septic system:

  •  fats, oils and grease,
  •  gasoline, antifreeze,
  •  varnishes, paints, and solvents,
  •  caustic drain and toilet bowl
  • cleaners,
  •  photographic solutions,
  • bleach, pesticides,
  •  nail polish remover,
  •  cat box litter,
  •  tampons, sanitary napkins,
  • diapers, paper towels, facial
  • tissues, condoms,
  •  plastics,
  •  coffee grounds, egg shells and other kitchen waste or
  •  cigarette filters.

TIPS ON MAINTAINING YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM …

There are many steps property owners can take to improve the functioning of their septic system and extend its life:

  1. Conserve water and reduce waste flow into the system by installing water saving features in plumbing fixtures, using dishwashers and laundry machines only with full loads, taking shorter showers rather than full baths, fixing leaky faucets and avoiding the use of garbage disposal units — too much water will overload a septic system.
  2. Ensure septic tanks are inspected at least every two years by a qualified person and pump tanks out at least every 3 – 5 years (or sooner since frequency depends on tank/household size). These actions can be combined.
  3. Do not impair access to the septic tank so that proper maintenance and servicing can occur.
  4. Reduce the use of phosphate-based detergents, soaps, and cleaners to minimize algae growth in nearby lakes and rivers.  Phosphates can impair water quality and fish habitat.
  5. Do not reduce access to the septic tank so that proper maintenance and servicing can occur
  6. Minimize the use of phosphate-based detergents, soaps, and cleaners to minimize algae growth in nearby lakes and rivers. Phosphates can impair water quality and fish habitat.
  7. Avoid the construction of parking areas, patios, tennis courts or decks in the area of or over the leaching bed. The extra traffic or weight can crush pipes or compact the soil or fill material. Construction can also limit oxygen from getting into the soil or fill.
  8. Have an effluent filter installed in the septic tank to reduce the amount of solids entering the leaching bed and prevent clogs.
  9. Do not use snowmobiles over the leaching bed area in winter since this reduces the natural insulation of the bed provided by the snow cover.
  10. Avoid planting trees or shrubs on the leaching bed area since roots can clog the perforated pipes and shade the leaching bed area, thereby limiting evapotranspiration.
  11. Minimize grass watering around the leaching bed area. Extra water can reduce the bed’s ability to absorb and treat wastewater from the house.
  12. Exercise caution about waste flows from water treatment units, condensate furnace discharges and water softener backwashes. These substances can harm the septic system, especially in large quantities.
  13. Direct rainwater runoff from roofs, patios and driveways away from the leaching bed area and septic tank access ports to avoid system overload.

WHO DO YOU CALL ABOUT SEPTIC PROBLEMS?

If you suspect your septic system is not working, a firm that pumps septic tanks may be able to identify the nature of the problem and recommend further action. Alternatively, you can call a licensed company that installs or repairs septic systems.

In Ontario, septics installers must be licensed by the Province. These companies must have qualified people working for them who have passed an examination administered by the Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing. Before you hire someone to do work, make sure they have the right license. Most septic installers will be listed in the yellow pages section of your telephone book under “septics”.

If you suspect a problem with your system, you may also want to contact the local agency that enforces the Ontario Building Code requirements for septic systems. This may be either your municipal building department, the board of health or conservation authority.

If a septic system needs a significant repair or replacement, it will be one of these agencies that will have to issue a building permit and inspect the work once it is completed. You can find these agencies listed in the “blue pages” of the telephone book.

TANK INSPECTION AND CLEANING …

Having your septic tank inspected regularly is one of the least costly ways to avoid the inconvenience and expense of doing a major septic system repair. Inspections can determine if the outflow to the leaching bed is clogged because of a back-up in the tank, if too much solid or scum material is in the tank or whether the tank needs to be pumped more frequently. Because they contain deadly gases, septic tanks should only be inspected by firms specializing in this work.

How often you need to pump the tank depends on the size or capacity of the tank, the flow of wastewater entering the tank and the volume of solids in the wastewater stream. This should occur every 3 – 5 years, but factors can change during the life of the septic tank. More people living in the house or the addition of a high water use appliance can exceed the capacity of the existing tank, requiring more frequent pump outs.

Summer and early fall are the best times to pump out a septic tank. Pumping at this time of the year leaves sufficient time before winter for the tank to refill and bacterial activity to become re-established. As well, the ground around the tank will not be frozen (allowing easier access) and higher water tables that typically occur in the spring will have receded.

NEW SEPTICS TECHNOLOGIES

More and more companies are developing innovative ways to improve the effectiveness of on-site sewage disposal technology. Some of these systems add other parts to the traditional septic system, such as pump chambers to provide more regular or controlled flow of wastewater to the leaching bed area and oxygen- enrichment treatment units (sometimes called aerobic treatment units) which add oxygen to the wastewater to assist bacterial activity.

Advanced Treatment Systems — Alternatives to Conventional Septic Systems

Other types of pre-treatment units use different materials such as special sands, peat or other filter materials. These systems are becoming increasingly popular because of the quality of the wastewater they produce and because they can reduce the overall size of the septic system, especially the leaching bed area.

The effectiveness of these systems is only as good as the degree to which they are properly maintained and operated by the property owner. Many have parts that require regular lubrication, uninterrupted electrical connections, servicing and regular check-ups. Some systems require a maintenance agreement between the property owner and the manufacturer.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency published the “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual”. This 357-page manual provides up-to-date information on onsite wastewater treatment system siting, design, installation, maintenance, and replacement. In addition to providing a wealth of technical information on a variety of traditional and new system designs, the manual promotes a performance-based approach to selecting and designing OWTSs.  It can be downloaded Here: “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual.”

Septic System Cost – Ontario

Guide To Operating & Maintaining Your Septic System

Tankless Water Heaters

Tankless Water Heaters

Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless Water Heater – Luna Baxi

Save Money With Tankless Water Heaters

Hot water heating accounts for about 20% (or more) of the average North American household’s annual energy costs. With energy prices rising day after day, it is becoming necessary to take a closer look at where the money is going.

The average yearly cost for a conventional gas or electric storage water heater is approximate $750 for a 1300sq.ft., four members, family home. It decreases or increases depending on how many people live in the house and on their particular water usage habits.

Conventional hot water heaters store water and maintain the water temperature to the temperature setting on the tank – usually between 120° and 140° F.

That means keeping water hot even when you do not need it – while you are at work; while you are sleeping; while you are away on holidays.

These “standby” losses represent 15% to 25% of a household’s annual water heating costs.

Another thing that annoys all of us is waiting for the water to heat up because someone took a bath before us. The storage tank water heaters only have a limited amount of hot water. After that is gone, you have to wait for the tank to get heated again.

Throughout the rest of the world, where energy costs have consistently been higher than in North America, different methods of heating water are standard.

Enter Tankless Hot Water Heaters.

They began appearing in the United States and Canada about 25 years ago but have been used in Europe for the last 50 years.

Unlike “conventional” tank water heaters, tankless water heaters heat water only as it is used, or “on demand”. Opening a hot water faucet ignites the powerful burners and the computer monitors the water temperature and adjusts the burners according to the need. High demand, high heat. Low demand, low heat.

Because the efficiency rate of tankless water heaters is about 20% higher, averaging around 90% and reaching up to 96% and there is no standby losses, savings on your energy bills are evident.

Some models even have the capacity to heat the house at the same time. With these tankless water heaters, which are connected either to radiant floor heat or to a heating coil in your furnace (air handler), you can bring high-efficiency space heating capacities to every home.

Just imagine a contraption the size of your kitchen cabinet, heating your home and giving you an endless supply of potable hot water. You do not need a separate furnace and a separate water heater.

Some models can be mounted on the exterior of a home, freeing up valuable floor and closet space on the inside. The unit can be placed in a recessed box, flush-mounted and painted or textured to match the exterior of the home.

Tankless water heaters can also be used for supplementary heat, such as a booster to a solar hot water system, or snow melting systems, or to meet all your hot water needs.

The main actors include Takagi, Rheem, Noritz, Rinnai and up and coming to Luna Baxi.

We would suggest researching different makes and models to make the right choice for your particular needs and circumstances.

 Compare Tankless with Regular Water Heater:

House Plumber

Plumbing Basics – What You Need To Know

Plumbing Basics - What You Need To Know
Plumbing Basics – What You Need To Know

Plumbing works on the simple concept of “water in — water out.”

In a new home, the plumbing system features three main components, the water supply system, the drainage system, and the appliance/fixture set.

Plumbing Basics – What You Need To Know

In most communities, to install plumbing, you must be a licensed plumber, or you must work under a licensed plumber who approves and oversees your work. Local codes determine standard plumbing procedures, but a new home’s fixture placement, pipe routing layout, and pipe size depend on the home’s design.

Installation Timetable

Sewer accommodation stubs are set before pouring the concrete foundation, but the bulk of the plumbing takes place later. The rough-in plumbing phase, which occurs in conjunction with the wiring and duct installation phase, takes place after the framing is complete, but before hanging drywall. This is the time to install main drains in floors and connect them to the stack. Rough-in drain fittings install now for sinks and tubs. This is also the time to install water supply pipes or tubing and set toilet flanges.

Plumbing Fixtures

Because they’re often too large to set once walls and doorways are framed, tubs and tub/shower units are typically set before framing the walls. Since a lot of construction has yet to take place, cover these fixtures with cardboard or even old blankets or rugs to protect them from scratches. Set and connect sinks and commodes last, after finishing the walls and laying the flooring.

Water Supply System

The main pressurized water supply line enters the house below the frost line, then splits into two lines; one provides cold water, and the other connects to the water heater. From there, the two lines supply hot and cold water to each fixture or appliance. Some homes have a water supply manifold system featuring a large panel with red valves on one side and blue valves on the other side. Each valve controls an individual hot or cold tube that supplies water to a fixture. Using a manifold system makes it simple to shut off the supply of water to one fixture without shutting off the water supply to the whole house.

Drainage Pipes

The main vent-and-soil stack, which is typically 4 inches in diameter, runs vertically from beneath the ground floor to above the roofline. Waste drains connect to the stack, directing waste downward to the main sewer drain, which then exits the home below the frost line and ties into the municipal sewer system or runs to a personal septic system.

Vent Pipes

Without a constant source of air, water locks can form in drainpipes, causing clogs. All drains require ventilation, but a single vent, usually installed behind a sink, can serve additional fixtures and appliances that connect within 10 feet of a standard drain line. Vent pipes, which are 2 inches in diameter, connect to the vent-and-soil stack in the attic. When a fixture sits too far from a common vent, it requires an additional vent pipe, which connects to the stack or exits the roof separately, depending on the home’s layout.

Traps

A drain trap is a U-shaped pipe that connects to the bottom of a sink, shower or tub drain. A trap retains a small amount of water that prevents smelly sewer gasses from backing up into the house. All plumbing fixtures require drain traps except the commode, which comes with an internal trap in its base.

Resources:

This Old House: From the Ground Up: Plumbing

About the Author

Glenda Taylor is a full-time writer with work featured in national and international publications. Taylor, a residential contractor, specializes in new construction and remodeling writing. She is also the category manager for eHow Now’s expert Handyman channel. Taylor’s formal education includes marketing and a bachelor’s degree in journalism.

Septic System Cost - Ontario

The Home Buyer’s Guide to Septic Systems

Septic System
Septic System

How the system works – Guide to Septic Systems

A typical system consists of an underground tank, a distribution line and a soil absorption drainage field.

Wastewater leaves the home through an underground pipe connected to the septic tank. Baffles in the septic tank slow the flow of the incoming wastewater and prevent sewage from flowing directly through the tank. Heavier solids settle to the bottom and accumulate as sludge.

The septic system is a natural sewage treatment and disposal system.

By natural we mean that it relies on bacteria to digest and clean the wastewater. Septic systems are biological systems and must have bacteria to work. The bacteria in the septic tank eat & digest the solids in the tank turning them into liquids and gases.

Raw household wastewater will quickly clog all but the most porous gravel formations. A septic tank is a sealed chamber, which conditions the wastewater to reduce clogging so that it may be more readily absorbed into the soil. The septic tank separates the settable and floatable solids, promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria necessary to decompose the solids, and provides storage for the resulting sludge and scum.

Where to install your septic system

Septic tanks should be located where they will not cause contamination of any well, spring or any other source of water supply. The septic tank should not be located closer than 10 feet from any building. The tank should not be found in swampy areas, nor in areas subject to flooding. Slopes greater than 25 percent will cause considerable difficulty in construction, and may slide once they become saturated with effluent. There must be no permanent cover placed over the septic tank or lateral lines.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Avoiding Problems

First things first: KNOW WHERE YOUR TANK IS!

External Care

  • Don’t drive over the system or compact the soil with heavy equipment
  • Don’t dig around it or build anything on top of it
  • Don’t cover the septic system with concrete
  • Divert roof drainage & downspouts away from it
  • Do not plant deep-rooted vegetation near the system, their roots may penetrate into it
  • Never plant a vegetable garden over the lateral field. Microbes from the effluent may travel through the soil & contaminate the crop

Internal Care

  • Keep your drains clean. If it is not biodegradable, it does not belong in your system.
  • No sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, cigarettes, cat litter, condoms, any packaging or cotton swabs.
  • No cooking oils. This can harden in the tank, build up and thus cause a blockage
  • No toxic chemicals, i.e., paints, pesticides, solvents or poisons. These can contaminate your ground water as well as kill required bacteria
  • Use low phosphorus laundry detergent. Liquid detergent is better than powders

Maintenance

Operation and maintenance of a septic tank are important. A system that is neglected or misused will have a shortened life expectancy.

Limit the usage of garbage disposals. This can double the amount of solids in your system.

Space out heavy water usage for things such as showers, washing the car and washing clothes. Up to 200 litres of water is discharged into your system with each load of laundry

Repair leaking valves and faucets. A tap leaking just one drop per second wastes about 10,000 litres of water per year. A silent leaking toilet can waste up to 20 times that amount

Fortunately, it’s easy to use water wisely throughout the house. Whether washing vegetables, cleaning dishes, brushing your teeth or shaving, use the plug and water in the sink to avoid leaving the taps running.

house-tool-belt

The biggest maintenance task is pumping the solids from the tank. After a few years, the solids that accumulate in the tank need to be removed and disposed of properly. If not removed, the solids will spill over into the drain field and clog the soil. With proper maintenance, a septic system can work efficiently for many years. Think of pumping your septic as you would to tuning up tour car. It is always wiser to do it before it stops working.

Many people often have chosen to use additives to eliminate the need to pump the tank although no additive has been proven effective. Some of the solids in the tank are sand, grit, plastic and other similar matter. No enzyme or bacteria can digest these. Other organic solids are not very digestible. Hence, they accumulate. Bacteria that are added must compete with bacteria that are adapted to living in your septic tank. These adapted bacteria have the home field advantage. The newly added organisms can’t compete. Enzymes are not living and cannot reproduce. Whatever is added to the tank is all that will ever be there; therefore the quantity of enzymes added are too low to be helpful.

Indications that there is a problem

Warning signs range from subtle to insufferable. The grass over the system may become unusually green or spongy to walk on. Toilets, showers and sinks might take longer to drain. Occasional sewage odors may become noticeable, often after a rainfall. Sometimes homeowners discover gray or black liquids surfacing in the yard or backing up from fixtures in the home. Whatever the problem may be, fix it fast!

What to do when there is a problem

Report any problems to your Township, before proceeding with repairs. Once the building department approval has been obtained, call a licensed contractor. Detail the full extent of the problem, giving specific details as to when you first noticed any symptoms.

Repairs can range from clearing a few lines to replacing entire drain fields and landfilling contaminated soil. Costs vary from a few hundred dollars to thousands.

The extent and cost of required repairs depend on how far you let the problem go.

Summer and early fall are the best times to pump out your septic system. This leaves time before winter, for the tank to refill and for bacterial action to become re-established. Also, the ground won’t be frozen, and the spring water table, which can create buoyancy problems for septic tanks, has receded. Particular care should be taken when pumping tanks made of lightweight materials such as polyethylene, fiberglass and steel.

When your tank is being pumped, it is a good time to inspect the baffles. These are important because they keep solids under control and out of the lateral lines

Never enter a septic tank. Toxic gases in the tank can cause death or injury. Never smoke or use an open flame near septic tank openings. Combustible gases such as methane may be present. Treat all contact with septic system components as if they were a biological hazard. Wash thoroughly with a water-bleach mixture after each contact.

Septic System Laws & Building Code

All septic systems in Ontario are regulated by the Ontario Building Code. The OBC requires that a permit is obtained for the construction, installation, extension, enlargement, or alteration of any on-site sewage disposal system, or any building additions may also require modifications to your site sewage disposal system.

Ontario Septic Code Explained

As of April 6, 1998, the rules for smaller on-site septic systems are covered by the OBC (Ontario Building Code). While these rules are put in place by the province of Ontario, local agencies such as municipal building departments, boards of health or conservation authorities are responsible for issuing permits and doing inspections.

The OBC includes regulations related to the operation and maintenance of septic systems requirements for servicing by qualified people, wastewater monitoring and sampling, septic tank pumps out, etc. If you have questions about the OBC requirements for new or existing septic systems, you should contact the septics enforcement in your area.

Alternative Sewage Systems

Sites where a conventional system is impractical require an alternative system. The initial cost of an alternative system may be higher, but they save you money in the long run.

Holding Tanks

Some on site systems are designed only to store wastewater, which is then pumped from the tank and trucked off site for treatment. Often used where septic systems cannot be accommodated, these holding tank systems depend on an alarm to warn when nearly full, and usually require an on-going contract with a pumping service.

Aerobic Systems

Several mechanical alternatives to septic systems are available on the market. These are active systems, using compressors or motors to introduce air into the treatment of wastewater. Most of these systems bubble air through wastewater, or use rotating discs to expose the sewage to air.

By contrast, a septic system, unless it uses a pump to discharge to the leaching bed, has no moving parts and requires no electricity.

Aerobic systems can provide a higher level of treatment than standard septic tanks. They also require lubrication, electrical connections and more frequent maintenance than conventional septics.

Some local health departments have been hesitant to approve these designs, because of problems that have arisen from improperly maintained systems; the same size drainage field may be required for an aerating system as for a standard septic system.

New Technology

These systems are improving as new technologies are further developed and demonstrated. Research into improved mechanical systems, better biological treatment media and systems using wetland or aquatic plants appears very promising.

Lagoon

Where clay content of the soil is very high, and the property is relatively large, a lagoon may be the best solution. A properly designed and maintained lagoon works by evaporating the liquid waste. A well-maintained lagoon is relatively free of odor.

Mound System

Where the clay content of the soil is high, or the groundwater is close to the surface, a mound system may be the answer. These systems work by placing the absorption laterals upon the ground surface and covering them with high permeable soil. Thus, most of the wastewater effluent is lost in evaporation and evapotranspiration.

Sand Filter

Where a very little area is available for the placement of laterals, or the bedrock is at or near the surface, a sand filter is a good choice. Sand filters work by forcing a measured dose of effluent through a bed of special sand, collecting the clear, odorless effluent, and then discharging it into a reduced size lateral or bed system. Many manufacturers provide prefabricated kits that may be installed by a very mechanically oriented homeowner. Sand filters can be expensive and require professional maintenance.

Living with water well & septic system

Drinking water from a well on your property is the solution many rural residents have decided upon. Other solutions such as bottled water, rural water districts, and hauling water may not be available or are cost-prohibitive. The rural water well is the most common solution. Rural water wells are unlike city water systems in that the town system provides water that is regularly tested for many contaminants on a regular schedule.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency published the “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual”. This 357-page manual provides up-to-date information on onsite wastewater treatment system siting, design, installation, maintenance, and replacement. In addition to providing a wealth of technical information on a variety of traditional and new system designs, the manual promotes a performance-based approach to selecting and designing OWTSs.  It can be downloaded Here: “Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual.”

 

Septic System Cost – Ontario