As reported by CBC News, an elderly woman battling cancer learned recently that the standard practice isn’t always common knowledge in the home insurance business. (CBC News article “Cancer patient’s home not covered for flood damage because she was away for treatment – Apr 20, 2015).
As revealed by a CBC “Go Public” investigation, Ivy Scotland, 84, was stunned when she was stuck with an $11,000 damage repair bill after she left her Pembroke, Ontario, home for treatment in the hospital. During three weeks she was in the hospital, the pipes in her house froze and burst, causing water damage.
But Grey Power denied Scotland’s insurance claim, citing a clause in the policy that Canadians who leave their homes unattended for more than four days in the winter are not eligible for coverage for water damage unless they appoint a responsible person to check the heat inside every day.
“We all agree the case is unfortunate, but the rules are the rules”, said Grey Power while denying the claim. “This is an exclusion on every personalized home insurance policy”.
The following are several standard exclusions in every home policy that aren’t always immediately clear and homeowners should be aware of:
1. Basic Policies Don’t Cover Earthquakes
Unless you live in an earthquake zone, you probably opted not to buy extra coverage for this risk — either in separate policy or as an endorsement to your homeowner’s policy.
Not surprisingly, earthquakes are one of the few excluded perils under the standard homeowner’s policy. (One exception: if there’s a fire following the earthquake, and that fire damages your home, those fire-related damages are covered.)
These losses could involve claims for business interruption and additional living expenses as well. Cars and other vehicles are covered for earthquake damage under the comprehensive part of the auto insurance policy.
How much extra earthquake insurance costs depends on a variety of factors, including the cost of your home, the construction materials (brick costs more to ensure than frame construction); the age of the house and the location.
2. Sewer Backups Are Not Covered
Water damage is one of those areas of home insurance where there are plenty of exclusions and grey areas, and homeowners can often be unclear on what is covered and what is not.
Some types of water damage are covered under a standard homeowner’s insurance policy while others require that you add an optional coverage to receive benefits.
Sewer back-up falls into the latter category. You can obtain coverage for sewer back-up in your home, but you may have to add an endorsement to your policy and pay an extra premium for the coverage.
To protect your home against water damage, keep your property well drained, pump septic system every 3-4 years, maintain the weeping tiles and clean eavestroughs regularly.
A flood, according to the Insurance Bureau of Canada, is defined as water flowing overland and seeping in through windows, doors and cracks.
While you can purchase extended water damage coverage with home policies, which covers things like a sump pump backup, flood insurance is not available with any Canadian insurance company. While coverage is offered for Extended Water Damage, this does not cover accidental flood damage.
3. Don’t Let House Insurance Take A Holiday
The term vacancy in the insurance industry means that the occupant(s) has left the premises with no intent to return, regardless of the presence of furnishings.
This can happen if you’re a property owner whose rented house remains vacant while you’re trying to find new tenants, or if the homeowner has passed away and the home is up for sale. Called “30 Days Vacancy Rule”, Insurance companies will give you 30 days to notify them of the home vacancy, failure to do so could technically void your policy.
Policy conditions vary widely but there is typically no coverage for vandalism, theft, water escape, or glass damage starting on the first day of the vacancy. After the property has been vacant for 30 days, the entire policy becomes void, and there is no coverage for any damage, not even fire or windstorm.
If you’re a property owner whose rented house remains vacant for more than a month, your insurance company can deny coverage for any losses such as fire or water damage. The 30-day rule applies whether or not the customer is paying monthly insurance bills.
Owners can still obtain what’s called a vacancy permit from their insurer, so the coverage never ceases after the occupants have moved out. However, this add-on, which must be purchased within the 30 days, is typically limited to exclude malicious acts and vandalism, and your premium will increase.
That’s one of the more frustrating things to understand while your home is vacant; you’ll be getting less coverage and a higher cost, because when nobody is living in the house the possibility for a claim is much greater.
A primary difference between a “vacant” and an “unoccupied” property is whether furniture is inside, indicating the owner intends to return. Snowbirds, for instance, could still leave for months at a time, and their homes would be considered unoccupied.
4. Jewelry Covered Only Up To A Limit
Home insurance only covers for the theft or loss of precious jewelry up to a “sub-limit” that could end up vastly undervaluing such items. Some firms might offer coverage for up to $5,000 or $6,000.
The cost of adding scheduled jewellery to your home insurance typically ranges from 1½ to 2% of its appraised value. (Because diamond jewellery tends to appreciate over time as diamond prices rise, insurance companies commonly require a new appraisal every five years).
It’s important to know your policies sub-limits, and if your items exceed your policy coverage to list them separately as extensions or floaters. Having your items listed separately could also provide broader coverage and reduced deductibles.
To do this, they would probably have to provide supporting documentation such as photographs to prove the worth of their high-valued possessions.
Make sure when you get your policy each valuable piece of jewelry you own has an agreed upon itemized value listed in the policy, so there is no conflict if you have to make a claim. Also, see if you can get a discount on your jewelry rider for storing your valuables in a safe deposit box or fire safe box.
5. Limitations for rare items
Things such as antiques, stamp collections and coin collections may not be fully covered under a traditional home insurance policy. Typically to have the full value of rare items covered, you must purchase an extension.
Limitations apply for items such as stamp collections (usually $1,000) and coin collections (usually $500) unless extensions are obtained.
If the value of your precious possessions exceeds the limits in your home policy, you should strongly consider valuables coverage.
Even if the value falls under the limit in the home policy, you may still want to have a valuables policy. Unlike a home policy, it covers loss due to flood. Many people also appreciate the lack of a deductible when losing an item that often has sentimental value.
6. Maintenance exclusions
The intention of insurance isn’t to pay for your claims that resulted from poor upkeep. Though some natural hazards can’t have been avoided, other problems could have been taken care of in the first place.
For example, if there are cracks in your foundation or you haven’t replaced your shingles in over 30 years, this could result in a water claim. That would be a maintenance issue, not an insurance issue.
The same goes for damage inflicted by household pests. If critters have eaten away at the attic to the point where a new roof is needed, standard insurance won’t help much.
Damage done by that raccoon, or a squirrel, or any sort of vermin to a person’s home has an exclusion there,
7. Home Business
Your homeowners policy provides limited coverage for business equipment. This is a huge area that is commonly underinsured in most homes.
It is common for a lot of families to have a home office as a central hub for the family to do research and planning. But, all those technological gadgets are expensive and most home owners policies limit home office equipment to $1,000.
Make sure you tell your insurance agent about any expensive computers, fax machines, printers, and other communication devices and see what coverage you currently have.
Also, you are not covered for liability related to your home business — if, for example, someone gets food poisoning through your catering business or if a student visiting your home trips and breaks an ankle while leaving a piano lesson.
If you run a business from home or have expensive office equipment, add an insurance rider so you can replace any damaged or stolen items if needed.
9. Upgrades could affect your policy
If you decide to renovate your home or install upgrades exceeding $10,000, it’s a good idea to notify your broker so he can re-evaluate your home.
If you’re adding living space by finishing your basement, you’re adding value and costs. Extensive alternations can change the policy classification, bump up the replacement cost of your home, or raise premiums.
Also, in the event of a claim if the insurance company discovers that you have a much bigger or better home than you said you did, this could be classified as a change in risk. This could result in the claim not being paid, your policy being cancelled, or a reduced settlement.
You should let the insurance company know you’ve updated the countertops, put in natural stone or upgraded the cabinetry.
Insurance brokers strongly recommend homeowners carefully dig into their property insurance policies to find out what they’re covered for. Anyone with questions can also consult the Insurance Bureau of Canada, or take up grievances with the General Insurance Ombudsman service.
Having a custom home built for your next property is a significant investment in time and expense, so it’s important that you have it designed to specifications that fit not only your lifestyle but on-going needs too. If you’ve never had a home built before, the decision making can be overwhelming; that’s why we’ve compiled a list of seven secrets you can use now – to design the perfect dream home for you and your family.
1. Start a List of Must Have Items in Your New Home
Before you start working out the finer details of your home’s build, it’s important to consider which elements are unforgiving in the layout and which items are more flexible regarding the overall design. It’s important to consider the natural flow you’re hoping for within the home too; do you want an open concept plan or something more traditional? Do you require a single, spacious area or would you rather have a private dining room for family functions? Grab a piece of paper and start writing out the pros and cons of each idea – to see what works best within your family. Likewise, determine how many bedrooms you’d like the home to have as well, taking into consideration any future family additions down the road.
2. Daydream About the Final Product
Take a look through various magazines, websites and photographs of different styles of homes – noting what you like and don’t like about each of the rooms you see. Pay attention to the colours, floor plans, finishing materials and design—as these can help you shape your custom home build too. If you find something you love, save the image to show your builder – especially if you’d like to replicate the picture. The builder can let you know whether the design will match well with the current floor plan or whether they’d need to accommodate your request in a different way (such as reducing the cabinets in the kitchen, if space is limited).
3. Think About the Big Picture
Many homeowners think solely of their current situation (family and children, finances, finishes) that they forget to plan for the future too. When you’re planning your home, it’s important to remember that life’s circumstances change quickly – whether that means having more children or caring for an elderly parent. Discuss important details about future events with your builder; like adding an in-law suite into the basement or roughing in an additional bathroom downstairs. These are all items that can save you money long-term, instead of adding them in later.
4. Upgrades During the Build Means Less Improvement Later
When you’re planning your custom home build, it’s important to remember that the home is built to your specifications and requirements. Often, homeowners opt for a cheaper finish (laminate over granite, for instance) with the idea of changing it at a later time. This mentality is backwards of what should happen; opt for upgrades that can be enjoyed throughout the years – instead of setting yourself up for additional work down the road. The last thing you’ll want to do is remodel your kitchen in five years when you finally want the granite.
5. Know Your Budget and Compromise on Design
Looking at your list of must-haves, determine which items are the most important. While having a custom stone bathroom might be a nice feature, sacrificing a fourth bedroom to achieve it is impractical. Consider which of the items on your list would offer the most benefit to your family and make sure you have those elements in place. Once you’ve narrowed your options down, reassess your budget to factor in any upgrades you’d still like to have – at a price you can afford.
6. Talk to Your Builder About Specifications
An experienced home builder has seen hundreds of homes developed and built throughout the years; trusting his opinion on design and floor planning is a wise decision. If you’re not sure of the optimal finishes for durability or longevity, ask his opinion. He’ll give you a fair assessment of different materials, giving you the tools you need to make a final decision.
7. Determine the Costs of Upgrades Over Time
Looking at the individual costs of upgrades can scare even the most experienced home developer – but it’s important to understand these costs only offer a small picture of the home. When you’re having a custom home built, you’ll be building a home to your ideal design and specification – meaning you’ll have less overall renovation requirement down the road.Many times, the costs of high-end upgrades (like commercial appliances in the kitchen or floor heating) can have a minimal impact on your final purchase price of the home. This means your monthly mortgage payment might increase by a few dollars at the end of the build – instead of paying the expenses in a lump sum.
Infographic-Insights From the Mind of the Homebuyer
As the busiest homebuying season of the year gets under way, potential buyers are poised to get off the sidelines and enter the market.
According to Chase’s national survey “Insights: From the Mind of the Homebuyer”, potential home buyers say they aren’t concerned about navigating the home-buying process, but a deeper look shows that their anxiety about the homebuying process is high. In fact, interested buyers are considerably more anxious about the buying process (70%) than they are about getting a root canal (64 %) or public speaking (62 %).
Homebuyers are optimistic that it’s a good time to buy but they anticipate challenges. Besides interest rates, Chase’s survey found that interested buyers are concerned about finding the home they want within their budget. Three out of four buyers are worrying about beating out the competition to get it.
Only one in four interested buyers correctly answered a series of questions about home buying, including how annual percentage rates work, how much should they put down for down payment, and how credit scores work.
The majority of interested buyers (62%) think that now is a better time to purchase a home compared to last year and plan to purchase the new home in the next 18 months. Top reasons they want to buy now include rising rental costs and historically low interest rates.
Whether shifting from renting to buying, or upgrading from their current home, potential homebuyers want to make a move before interest rates begin to rise, as some analysts predict.
As for their motivations for buying, 32% attribute it to current low mortgage rates. Another 35 percent said if 30-year fixed mortgage rates were to rise above 4%, it would delay their purchase. An additional 20 percent said upgrading from their current home was their motivation for buying.
The survey also revealed insights into homebuyers’ concerns and challenges.
The majority of potential homebuyers are concerned about finding a home that fits within their price range (56%) and that’s located in a quality neighborhood (56%). Buyers are clearly worried about housing inventory and rising prices, especially during the competitive spring buying season,” But the research also shows that interested buyers are optimistic and ready to act on their goals.
Quick stats from the “Insights From the Mind of the Homebuyer” survey:
43 percent of potential home buyers feel that getting a mortgage will be easier this year.
56 percent say they are concerned about finding a home that fits within their budget and that’s located in a quality neighbourhood.
32 percent want to buy soon in order to take advantage of low rates;
35 percent say that 30-year fixed mortgage interest rates rising above 4 percent would delay their decision to buy
20 percent say the rising cost of rent is their number-one reason to buy
20 percent say the desire to make an upgrade from their current home was their top reason to buy
70 percent of those surveyed said they thought they may have missed their opportunity to buy already, as home prices are increasing.
3 out of 4 homebuyers are concerned their offer will be outbid by others
73 percent said they’d give up things like eating out and taking vacations in order to buy their dream home.”
42 percent say they aren’t at all concerned about lacking understanding of the mortgage process.
In addition, the survey revealed tensions among homebuying couples:
One-third of homebuying couples have been bickering with their partner during the process. One reason for the spats may be the budget.
Men and women differed in their feelings on how important it is to stick to the budget; about half of women (49 percent) say they are more conservative than their partner and don’t want to go beyond their agreed-upon budget, while 39 percent of men say they are less conservative than their partner and are willing to push their budget limit to get the home they want.
The builder who offers the biggest house for the lowest cost has most likely compromised quality at every step of the construction process.
The problems manifest later. Faulty foundations, moisture intrusion, and shoddy framing are often at the root of problems, which show themselves as gaping cracks, rotting walls, and windows and doors that don’t close right. Often, though, they show up months or even years after the buyer has moved in and the builder has moved on.
A builder can use their experience and expertise to work for you or against you!
You, indirectly, get to choose only one or the other. A very good builder can only produce very good projects. It goes against his grain to use low bids from subcontractors or suppliers. His bid will feel high.
A bad builder, on the other hand, doesn’t have the ability to produce a good job. He just doesn’t know how. He uses the lowest priced subcontractors and suppliers because he doesn’t know the difference between GOOD and BAD work. He never will. His goal is the low bid. And your search for a “bargain,” so engrained in us as Canadians (it’s like winning!), makes you his target prey.
With over 50 materials suppliers and subcontractors involved in any given project, and at least 10 of each to select from locally, a builder has 500 subcontractors and vendors to choose from. He can pick either the ones that can do the best job on time or the lowest bids that will get it done sometime.
Believe me, marriages have gone on the rocks due to subs who do not show up, do not show up on time, do not do the work correctly and according to specs, and then do not stand behind their work. So if you are looking for the lowest bid, there is no magic to producing one.
There is, however, a lot of magic if a low bid project is pulled off without a lot of delays and cost overruns. In home building, you truly do get exactly what you pay for.
It cannot be repeated too often: When the builder has nothing to lose, the homeowner stands to lose everything.
When you finally get a builder, and you enter into a contract, you should treat your association like a partnership. Your builder shouldn’t try to shortchange you, and you shouldn’t shortchange him. The first one who tries to nail the other will provoke the other to do the same. Then you have an adversarial relationship you didn’t want or expect, and from there on things go downhill very quickly.
A good builder always wants to make a good first impression.
The up front attention the builder gives you before signing the contract is the best, and most you will ever get from him. If he makes you wait and wait for the design and estimate, then just imagine how well he runs the subsequent construction process.
Don’t wait for bids from some time-warped builder who can’t get out of bed in the morning. Building a home is a careful, complex job that requires constant communication and a mountain of attention to detail. Builders who make clients wait are always, always, always late.
If a builder won’t give you good up front service, it’s merely a preview of the way he works and will work on your job. Call someone else.
Remember: You are buying the process, not the project
Nearly everybody treats the contracting for a building project as if it’s already built! It isn’t, and it won’t be for a very long time. It’s that l-o-n-g-s-p-a-c-e between the signing of the contract and the completed projected that you really bought.
If you can think of your builder as if they were a travel agent, then the PROCESS ahead of you is like the taking of the trip. If you book a trip from the Toronto to Calgary, wouldn’t you like to know if you will be traveling by bus, truck, pack mule or airplane?
Most travelers know the difference. But in home building our brains turn to jello. We end up with bad trips and feel every bump, dip, delay and stoppage. Minds feel like lost baggage. We’re not sure when, how, or if the trip will get us safely to our destination.
Again, the part of the building project that you bought is the process (trip). It should be a foregone conclusion that you’re going to get a good job done eventually.
Who is taking out the building permit?
Just when every precaution has been taken, along comes a homeowner who’s gullible enough to take out the building permit for the builder.
Now the homeowner is responsible for the entire project – all the inspections, all insurances and future problems or warranties. The builder has no liabilities and has deftly shifted all of them to the homeowner!
It’s o.k if the homeowner or his subcontractors build a majority of the house, but if the builder is building the whole house, do not take out the permit.
Banks don’t protect your interests while you are building
Everyone thinks they’re so smart because they bought an expensive home without a hitch. Never mind that the lawyers did all the legal work, and if anything gets missed, the title insurance saves the day and the home. This gives the homeowner a false sense of security when building. They think others are watching out for them.
Nobody is watching! If you lose $50,000 on a building project gone bad, you STILL owe the bank for the next 15 years. The Bank loaned you 80% of your equity in your house, so they’re NICELY covered. They can easily get their money out of you even without the improvement.
There are few branches in Ontario who deal exclusively with reputable builders. When a homeowner comes to one of these more selective banks for building financing, but their builder isn’t on the bank’s A-list, the loan is turned down without explanation.
The homeowner thinks they weren’t approved when it was the builder who wasn’t approved. Banks are in the business of renting money. They are not in the business of providing information on the ever-changing circle of home builders.
What to do when the builder doesn’t honour his price after starting your project
This is a serious problem, a recurring one, and NEVER easy to deal with. Sometimes the builder has made an honest mistake, but sometimes it’s a calculated mistake. Either way, he wants more money or he won’t proceed any further.
You have a signed contract that will hold up in court (after you have paid an attorney thousands of extra dollars). You also have a home that’s in shambles for the duration. What to do? If you do pay the extra, how do you know it won’t happen again? And again? You don’t know the exact price of your project until it’s completed and all of your lien waivers are in hand.
However, you now understand why this builder’s bid was lower then the others. Many builders regard the bid as a starting point of what it takes to get a signed contract and down payment. The real profits come in the future, through the add-ons and change orders.
What role should a lawyer play?
It depends on if you are on the offense or the defense. Either way it will cost you a lot to gain a little. Unfortunately, people usually hire an attorney AFTER they have been nailed. But being in the right and winning a lawsuit doesn’t do much good if the builder you’re suing is flat broke and owes everyone in town.
Should you hire an architect to oversee your building project?
This gets back to an earlier warning: “Don’t consider an architect that hasn’t designed at least fifty projects that got built”. Why pay for someone else’s learning curve? But once you get through the laborious task of having plans drawn your real work has just begun.
Your architect will send off the five-pound set of plans (that you paid $10,000 for) to various building contractors to bid on. Typically the plans will be sent to half a dozen builders. Some will be sent to the builders that the homeowner selected, and for insurance the architect will send some sets to contractors he has worked with in the past.
Most builders selected by the homeowner won’t respond because the architect has officially signed off responsibility for the total outcome of the project and the architect does not have Errors and Omissions Insurance. The contractors selected by the architect WILL respond because they have a cozy relationship with the architect. The architect examines the bids (for an extra fee) and advises the client on what to do.
The “what to do” part is where the homeowner now gets let in on a new idea. The architect is privy to the builder’s price ranges and if they are high enough the new idea is (news flash) that the architect will offer to build the job for the client, and the client will not have to pay his fifteen percent fee for overseeing the project.
An architect does have limitations: his primary training is not in project management and his plans still should be checked and re-specified by a structural engineer, so the project doesn’t drift in the wind. Homeowners get nailed by architects, too – it’s just that it’s not as often, but it’s usually for much more money.
Beautiful View From Lafontaine Beach in Tiny Township
Looking to relocate to a peaceful, scenic area away from city living?
If this sounds appealing, consider Tiny Township as your new location.
Tiny Township is located on the peninsula that separates Severn Sound and Nottawasaga Bay at the south end of Georgian Bay. It extends southward into the Wye River watershed.
The township is home to Awenda Provincial Park on Georgian Bay at the north end, and the Tiny Marsh Provincial Wildlife Area, the source of the Wye River, in the south.
With over 70 kilometres of stunning coastline, Tiny Township provides residents with beautiful views and a multitude of activities to enjoy.
Consider these eleven reasons if you are thinking about relocating to Tiny Township.
1. Tiny Township real estate is affordable to buy
Affordable lots give home buyers an excellent reason to consider building a new home and moving to Tiny Township. Starting around $35,000, prime lots are more reasonably priced than anywhere else along the shores of Georgian Bay. Average lots are relatively large: 100″ x 160″ and covered with mature pines, maples and oaks. You are never more than 5 minutes drive from one of the beautiful beaches.
2. Crime Rate in Tiny Township is next to nothing
It offers excellent security. Neighbours watch out for each other. The community feel of country living goes beyond saying. It is secured and provides a wonderful way to take care of one another while still maintaining that sense of privacy that everyone wants.
The cost of policing is only $125.00 per household per year. This is one of the lowest rates in Ontario.
A community surrounds your family, so you know that they will be safe when they are outside playing. Everyone watches out for one another and make the whole neighbourhood safe. The only difference is that everyone has their home and the sense of privacy that they desire.
3. Water sports make summer all the more exciting
It is no surprise that Tiny Township residents spend their summers enjoying the vast variety of water sports. At Balm Beach wake-boarding, water-skiing, tubing, kayaking, and boating are just a few of the activities popular with locals and tourists alike. Nearby shops provide rentals for visitors or residents that do not own water equipment, such as boats and jet skis.
Even residents with less active lifestyles enjoy sunbathing on the shore or a quick dip in the water. Activities on the lake infuse endless enjoyment into residential life during the long summer months.
4. Your backyard is a sanctuary for abundant wildlife
The wetlands of Tiny Marsh are home to dozens of bird species. A glance along the coast might yield a sighting of a majestic Great Blue Heron.
Around 250 species of birds have been observed in the marsh, including the provincially threatened Least Bitterns and Black Terns. Ospreys nest at the marsh, as well as 11 species of duck. The shallow waters attract other waterfowl during most of the year.
Foxes, deer, racoons, squirrels, chipmunks and porcupines are almost a daily occurrence.
Occasionally, hawks make their home in the nearby woods along the farmer’s fields. Even nature enthusiasts that know little about the sport of bird watching will enjoy spotting these majestic animals in their natural habitat.
5. Your home becomes the place where everyone wants to gather
With beautiful landscapes and quiet living, Tiny Township makes the perfect location for family events. Visits from family and friends become much more frequent when you have a home in a prime location near the lake.
When holidays like Easter and Thanksgiving roll around, don’t be surprised when friends and relatives beg you to host.
6. Delicious local dining options abound
Whether a casual night out or a big date night is on the horizon, nearby towns of Midland and Penetanguishene have restaurants of every caliber within a short drive. A favorite spot for locals, The Piccolo restaurant, offers casual dining during the day and formal dinners in the evening.
7. The Bay is an excellent fishing hole
Georgian Bay fishing consists of cold water species such as the rainbow trout, chinook, and coho salmon, as well as cool water species like yellow perch, smallmouth bass, and walleye.
These cold water species are found approximately six to ten miles offshore during the summer months. Yellow perch, smallmouth bass, and sunfish are taken from late spring to early fall along the entire bay shoreline.
Avid anglers flock to the waters edge year-round. Some of the best ice fishing is in the whole of Georgian Bay area is off the shores of the beaches of Tiny Township.
If you take a more relaxed approach to your fishing expeditions, you’ll discover open and calm waters with plenty of room for casting and reeling.
8. Your porch overlooks a stunning lake view
Worn out after so many activities? Kick back and end the days enjoying perfect sunsets that can only be found in charming places like Tiny Township. The serene waters provide a calm backdrop for residents, making it an ideal location for homebuilders looking for a laidback lifestyle.
The beautiful landscape and clean, fresh water of Georgian Bay give new residents the benefits of lakefront view without crowded shores and overpriced real estate. Whether you are drawn to water sports, weekend camping trips or just desire a slower pace for your life, relocating to Tiny guarantees the luxury lifestyle that will fit your needs.
9. It is an excellent place to raise the family.
A community surrounds your family, so you know that they will be safe when they are outside playing. Everyone can watch out for one another and make the whole environment like extended roommates.
You have everything that you want, without any of the things that you don’t. Someone is always there for you if you need it, but stays to away when you don’t.
10. Low taxes
Construction and other costs for a new home are about the same everywhere in Simcoe County. But Midland charges $2,983 in tax just for local services on a $300,000 home while Tiny charges $825 and Wasaga Beach charges $1,446. This is clearly why new home builders and buyers choose places like Tiny instead of other places.
That all brakes down to approximately $2,500.00 a year in taxes for an average new house.
11. Clean Air
Families that live in the country have the benefit overcrowded cities and industrial areas of having fresh air. Sitting outside at night and being able to view the stars and moon in all their glory is clear evidence of the air quality in the country.
Smog and air pollution are far and few between in the country. Bright blue clouds and sun can be seen clearly, and pollutants from crowded highways, exhaust fumes and manufacturing companies are nowhere in sight. For most rural families, the worst air they might encounter is a trip back into the pig pen or chicken coop.
Certainly there are other benefits to living a rural life such as taking the view of the sun on fire as it sets over the pasture or a quiet Sunday drive to visit friends and family or even the feeling of community to belonging to a small rural town. Families that have traded in their city digs for a piece of the country look forward to growing their kids high as the corn fields in August and giving them a taste of heaven on earth.
Furthermore, life in the country is slower, so people there have time for each other. As a result, they tend to be friendlier and more open. If you need help, people always have time to help you.
Plumbing is the only game where a good flush beats a full house every time! So, every year we compile a list of some of our favorite bits of plumbing related humor and funny pictures to share with you.
But first you have to understand the technology:
Our contestants for the plumber of the year were carefully monitored and medically supervised.
Disclosure: No plumber was hurt during the filming of the following scenes. But all of them should have been punched in the balls.
How Not To Connect Pipes Under The Sink
The plumber that did the above job signed up for one of those ‘learn to be a plumber in 6 weeks’ courses you see in the papers. His final exam was at 9 am yesterday. He showed up at 3 pm, looked at the exam paper and said, “Looks like I am going to need a pen for this job – I will have to pop round to my suppliers for one. Be right back.” He came top of his class.
Did you know that a plumber is the only profession where you get to take a leak and fix it at the same time?
The guy above was called to an upscale apartment in Toronto to repair a leaking pipe. Upon arriving, he found that the woman was dressed provocatively and seemed to be hovering around him. After a while, the two became a little friendly, and things got heated between them. At around five p.m., the phone rang, and she hurried off to answer it, returning with the bad news that her husband was on his way home. She said, “Tonight is his bowling night, so why don’t you come back around eight p.m. and we can finish this?” The plumber replied, “What, on my own time?”
Nothing to go on
Somebody broke into the police station and stole the only toilet in the building. Right now the cops are anxious to apprehend the perpetrator but they have nothing to go on.
Which pipe is hot water?
Plumbers never get nervous. How do we know? Well, have you ever seen a plumber biting his nails?
This would look much better with: “Your crap is my family’s bread and butter!”
A man at an airport shows off pictures of his three sons to a friend. “What do your boys do for a living?” asked the man. “Well my youngest is a neurosurgeon, and my middle is a lawyer,” he replied. “What does the oldest do?” the man asked. The father replied, “He’s the plumber that put them through school.”
It was harder to do a “temporary fix” than to have set it right.
How are, a doctor and a plumber alike? They both bury their mistakes.
A doctor had a backed up toilet and knocked on his neighbour’s door in the middle of the night. The neighbour, a plumber, complained that he was sleeping, and it’s his day off, but the doctor replied, “I’m always on call!” The plumber wearily got dressed, went over to the doc’s toilet, lifted the lid, tossed in two aspirins and said, “If it’s still like this in the morning, give me a call.”
In the morning, after a two-minute job the plumber demanded $150. The doctor exclaimed, ‘I don’t charge this amount even though I am a surgeon.” The plumber replied, “I agree, you are right. I too, didn’t either, when I was a surgeon. That’s why I switched to plumbing!”
The plumber that did this? His career went down the toilet!
This plumber was working in a house when the lady of the house said to him, “Would it be okay for me to take a bath while you’re eating lunch?” The plumber stopped working, sat on the toilet and replied, “It’s okay with me lady, as long as you don’t splash my sandwiches.”
Who thought of this?
On a plumber’s truck: ” We repair what your husband fixed.”
The following is a true story:
A plumber hobbles down the road in a cast and meets a friend. “How did you break your leg?” asked the friend “It’s like this,” he replied: “This guy had promised his wife that he would fix the sink plumbing on a particular day. That day, he realized he would need to stay late at work, so he called me. I stopped by the man’s office for the house key and went to work.
“When the wife got home, she saw my bottom half protruding from the sink cabinet. She assumed it was her husband, and proceeded to remove my trousers and give me some, special attention.
“I was so startled I bumped my head and was knocked out. The woman pulled me out, and must have fastened my trousers and called an ambulance.
“When the medics were carrying me out, they asked what had taken place – When I told them, they laughed so hard that they dropped me. That’s when I broke my leg!”
A few of other contestants that almost won:
Genius!Brilliant!Privacy galore!Feeling like a king – on the throne!The but of all the jokes!
And the Plumber of the Year 2015 Winner is:
Fridge from the kitchen above will come through anytime
The idiot that did the above should have been punched in the balls – twice!
Let us end with this: As you all probably know, “The Kama Sutra” has announced a new sex position. It’s called The Plumber: You stay in all day, and nobody comes!
We hope you enjoyed it! Leave us a comment letting us know your favourite, or send us a plumbing joke of your own, or just like us on Facebook.
We have never met a client looking for an average home builder.
Choosing the best home builder for your needs and for the kind of home you are after, is one of the most critical decisions you’ll make in your home building process.
While some custom builders construct a broad scope of homes, many of them are experts in a particular type of house construction, price range, or style.
Case in point, not many builders build starter homes for first-time buyers and also million dollar homes for wealthy custom home buyers.
If you’re in the market for a new home, you should shop for your builder as carefully as you shop for your home.
A builder whose complete portfolio comprise of contemporary houses may not be the first choice for a traditional home you are after, and another way around.
While many custom builders have knowledge in a variety of designs and styles, in most cases, look for a builder whose work includes at least some examples of the style of home you want.
The building materials, trade contractors and even the construction process itself can differ significantly by type and price of the home. Look for a fitting trait here.
A suitable custom home builder does not need to be a huge outfit with 20 trucks on the road and a million dollars marketing budget. The right builder needs to have the interest, financial resources, the time, communication skills, organization skills, and experience to build your new home.
First order of business would be to look for builders in the area you are planning to build in. Do an internet search and check with your local building department. Drive through your neighbourhood, stop by houses you like and ask who built them.
What do I look for in a builder?
Before we begin, we have to state our first assumption: You are looking to build a new home and would want to do it without too much of a headache. You are also looking for high quality, reasonable cost, and sensible timeframe.
Price is not a good way to distinguish Builder#1 from Builder#2.
An old saying says that between cost, speed and quality you can get any two but not the third!
This article is our attempt to give you a few easy to understand tools that you can use to find the builder that will give you a great experience while building your home.
So, how can you, as the one that pays for it all, with minimal understanding of the dark world of “construction”, be sure not to get taken.
But before we go any further you have to understand the building is a relatively complex job.
It takes 20 to 30 weeks (most of the time longer), 49 different experts, architects, engineers, inspectors and skilled trades and thousands of components to build a typical house.
It requires planning ahead, and careful management throughout the process. Everything must be done within a context of municipal and provincial regulations, permits, inspections and approvals.
A home builder needs to deal with it all and do it well.
Besides the questions of “How much does it cost?,” and “When can we move in?” here are some other questions you should ask a list of potential builders to find out about a builder’s skills, experience and professionalism.
How long has the company been in business?
How many homes do they build annually?
What are their background and experience?
What kind of training do key people in the company have?
Does the company have the required licences and registrations?
Does the company have the required WSIB and a liability insurance?
Are they a member of “Tarion” a new home warranty program?
Does the company have an established after-sales service policy, and how does it work?
Will the company provide a list of previous clients for a reference check?
Do they have an established network of sub-trades who work with them on all or most of their homes?
Is the company familiar with new trends in housing, such as energy-efficient and healthy housing?
Visit at least one previously built home for each builder you interview.
Think about the particular characteristics you equate with quality; make a list and check it against homes you visit. Look carefully at each home you visit. Consider the design and layout. Is the home environmentally friendly and energy-efficient?
Does the home make efficient use of space? Would it work for your lifestyle, could you see yourself living there or what changes would you want to make?
Check the products used in the homes. Are they brand-name products that you are familiar with, and do they come with a manufacturer’s warranty?
Note which features are upgrades and extras to get a better sense of the basic model. It should be indicated in the model home; if not, ask the builder or salesperson to explain.
Visit a work site.
Ask builders you are considering buying from if you can get a tour of a home in progress. Visiting a home under construction offers an excellent opportunity to see the quality inside the walls, floors and ceiling before everything gets covered up.
While it may be difficult for a layperson to evaluate construction techniques, there are many obvious things to look for—straight lumber, smooth cuts, neat seams, well-installed insulation, well-sealed air barriers, and so on.
Whether the home is being built on a single site or in large development, you can tell a lot about the builder by looking around the job site. Does it seem well organized, with tools and materials stored neatly and no garbage lying around?
Are workers wearing safety gear such as hard hats, boots and safety harnesses? Do they appear to be working efficiently? Are they courteous? Do they seem to have a good rapport with the builder?
Every company has its way of doing business.
It has often been said that the single most important key to a successful new home purchase is a good working relationship with the builder.
Even if you like builder’s homes, you still need to be sure that you will be comfortable buying from this company.
At some point during your house search, you need to start talking business. This can happen as you visit sales offices or model homes, or you can call builders or their salespeople, depending on the size of the company, to arrange a meeting.
Think of these meetings as an interview—you are questioning them to find out if you want to buy from them.
Bear in mind that they are interviewing you at the same time to determine whether you can buy from them, and what kind of customer you will be.
Talk about your new home, your vision, your needs, your desires and the price range you are considering. Let the builder know which of the company’s models and floor plans appeal to you. Or, ask them to show you different models and plans that reflect your vision and fit your budget.
The key to getting information is to ask questions. Don’t worry that you are demanding too much or that some of your questions may seem obvious to others—ask about all the things that are important to you, both about the house and about the buying process.
It is a good idea to write down your questions in advance; it helps you stay focused and ensure that you get the information you need to make a decision.
Here are some suggestions:
If the company offers standard plans, how much change is allowed?
Will the builder modify the floor plans to your needs?
Can you change some of the finishes?
Add more features?
Does the builder have experience with the type of home you are contemplating?
Can they design a home for you, or recommend a designer or an architect?
Could you see a builder’s Agreement of Purchase and Sale or the contract?
What are the standard features included in the basic price of the home?
Does the builder offer upgrades and options, and what do they cost?
Beyond the basic price of the home and any upgrades or extras that you choose, what other building or closing costs will the builder charge you for if any?
Are the HST as well as the HST New Housing Rebate included in the price quoted to you?
Does the builder offer a mortgage?
How does it compare to the financing provided by your lender?
What size deposit is required, will it be placed in trust and is it insured?
Does the builder require construction draws, i.e. payment at various stages during construction?
When will the builder be able to start construction on your home?
What would be the completion date?
Will there be a pre-construction meeting to review everything before starting construction, to make sure every last detail is clearly understood?
Will you be able to visit your home during construction?
Are there any restrictions, such as a number of visits or who can accompany you? What’s the procedure for arranging visits?
Will you get regular updates during construction, and will the company appoint a contact person that you can easily reach if needed?
What is the builder’s policy on change orders?
Will you be able to make changes after construction begins?
If the builder has to make alterations to the plans or specifications for any reason during construction, will you be advised and how?
Will your home be covered by a third party new home warranty?
What happens if construction falls behind schedule?
Does the company have a clear process in place for dealing with delays, including informing you within a reasonable timeframe?
Will the builder conduct a pre-delivery inspection of the home with you before you take possession, to verify that things are done as agreed and to identify any outstanding items to be completed?
Can you bring others to this inspection, such as a family member or a professional home inspector?
Does the company have any written information, e.g. a brochure or manual that explains the buying and construction process step by step?
Throughout the discussions, note the following:
How well does the builder listen?
Are your questions answered clearly and fully?
Does the builder seem knowledgeable and able to offer suggestions or alternatives to meet your needs and preferences?
Are you treated with respect?
It can take several visits and a number of conversations before you have covered everything to your satisfaction and feel that you are ready to make a decision. Don’t rush. Take your time and make sure that you have a good sense of each builder that you may be considering—how their process works, how they would treat you, and what it would be like to buy from them.
After-sales service
Ask builders to explain their after- sales service policy—what can you expect from the company once you have moved into your new home? If there are items outstanding, when will they be completed? How should you deal with warranty issues that may emerge later? Who can you call if you have any questions? What if you have an emergency and need immediate help?
Knowing upfront that your builder has a well-defined after-sales service process helps to take the anxiety out of your purchase decision. While varying from one company to another, the process will typically include a number of contacts and visits to your home as required.
There may be other aspects of the builder’s after-sales service. Some companies approach homebuyers a month or so after move-in to see how they are doing in their new home and to ask questions about the home buying experience.
This is a chance for you to discuss any thoughts you may have, negative or positive, about the company and your home, and for the company to find out how it’s doing and where it may need to make improvements.
Other builders may stay in touch with their customers through newsletters or bulletins, providing updates on the community, general homeowner advice and other information of interest.
Maintenance
Before handing the home over, most builders will give you “orientation” tour to show you how everything works—how to operate and maintain the mechanical systems, for instance. This is usually done at the same time as the pre-delivery inspection.
Many builders will provide you with a homeowner’s manual describing the various elements of your home and setting out the requirements for regular maintenance and service.
This not only helps you to keep your home in great condition, but it also contributes ensuring that you don’t void the warranty on your home. Failure to follow the builder’s or manufacturer’s instructions may mean that they are not responsible for any repair work needed.
Previous buyers
Builders should be able to give you a list of references—past customers who have bought from them within the last couple of years. Do check the references—too often homebuyers neglect this step. Don’t worry about disturbing people; they have agreed to let the builder give out their names and will not mind you contacting them.
Before you call, make a list of questions you would like to ask, such as:
In general, what was the builder like to buy from? Was it a good experience?
What particularly did they appreciate about the company? What did they not like about it?
Did they run into any problems, and if so, were the problems solved to their satisfaction?
Was the home completed on time and budget? If not, what were the circumstances?
Were there missing or defective items at the time of possession, or items that had to be fixed?
Were all of their colour selections, upgrades and extras done as requested?
How was the company’s after-sales service?
Are they happy with their home? If not, why?
Would they buy from the company again?
Would they recommend the company?
Your choice of builder will have a significant impact on your entire buying experience.
It is also key to your satisfaction with your home. As you get ready to make the final decision, carefully look over all the information you have collected and compare builders to determine who offers the greatest overall value for your investment.
There are a number of areas to consider:
Price
The first point of comparison is often price—how the price of one builder stacks up against those of others. Price is important, of course, but you are well advised to consider carefully what’s included in the price, and what’s not.
Compare standards and upgrades. The standard features offered by one builder may be an upgrade and cost extra with another company. Some builders include a broad range of features in the basic price of the home; others include far fewer features or use products of a lower quality to keep the price down.
Look closely at the bottom line. Beyond upgrades and options for your home, what other additional items will builders charge you for, if any?
From utility hookups to tree planting, a builder’s extra charges can add significantly to the cost of your home. When it comes to taxes, make sure you are comparing “apples to apples”. Some builders include the GST/HST in the price quoted, as well as the GST/HST New Housing Rebate.
Others don’t, and you may need to calculate the tax as well as the rebate, when applicable, in order to compare prices effectively. To find out more about the GST/HST new housing rebate, call your local Canada Revenue Agency office or check www.cra-arc.gc.ca
Remember that old adage – getting what you pay for holds true for home buying as well.
Quality construction, attention to details, the use of brand-name materials and products, and right before and after-sales service, come at a cost—it may not be wise to select a home based on its price alone.
Quality
Compare the quality of the labour and materials from one builder to another. Is the construction quality satisfactory? How does the finishing compare? Does a builder use standard products and finishes of a good quality, or do you have to upgrade many items to reach the level of quality you’d like? Are you comfortable with the brands used by a builder, are they warranted and for how long?
Also, consider the quality of the “living environment” that each builder offers. Are their designs attractive, and will the layouts work well for your household? Are they paying careful attention to light, heating, cooling and ventilation —in other words, creating a healthy, comfortable place for you to live?
Warranty
Compare the builders’ warranties. Do they all offer a third-party warranty on their homes? If not, you could find yourself without protection if something goes wrong before, during or after the construction of your home. At the same time, not all new home warranties are the same; in provinces with several warranty providers, you may need to compare different warranty programs offered by various builders.
After-sales service
Part of the confidence of buying a home from a reputable builder comes from knowing that you can rely on the company to continue to provide service after you have moved into your new home. This could mean dealing with warranty items, responding to your concerns or just staying in touch with you to make sure you are enjoying your new home.
Compare: does a builder have a clear after-sales service process that’s written down, with milestone check-ups? A separate service department? An independent telephone number with a 24-hour emergency line? A clear policy on returning phone calls from homeowners?
Personal comfort
Last but not least, you need to select a company you feel comfortable with. The “personal fit” between you and your builder, or the builder’s representative, should be an important part of your decision.
You may respect a builder’s credentials and appreciate the quality of their homes. You may learn that a builder is highly valued and recommended by past customers. This doesn’t automatically mean that this is the right builder for you.
A satisfying home buying experience depends on open communication, a good working relationship and mutual trust. Consider what it would be like to build your home with each company and compare.
Does the company’s approach to the buying and building process work well for you? Will you be able to work well with the people in the company throughout it all? Does the company offer the kinds of information, assistance and reassurance that you want? Are there any restrictions that you would have difficulty with? Do you feel confident that they will deliver the home you want?
Making the final decision
Carefully compare the builders you are considering—who they are, what they offer and what they would be like to buy from. Then choose the company that provides the best overall value and quality, and gives you the greatest sense of confidence.
Once you have selected the builder, you are ready for the next step—working out the details of your new home and putting it in writing. Before you sign a contract, ask your lawyer to review it.
No matter how carefully you have selected the builder, you still have to take all the necessary precautions to protect yourself and your investment. Then you can enjoy the home buying experience and look forward to the day you move into your new home.
It would be false for us not to remind you that we think that we do deliver a good building experience for our clients, but how can you know?
Interested in interviewing us?
At ICFhome.ca, we can answer your all of your questions with the greatest confidence.
We manage each construction project with our knowledgeable, highly qualified team of building professionals who act as stewards of your money and your new home.
Fireplaces have long held a special place in the hearts of Canadians. At one time an essential source of heat for warmth and cooking, they remain a gathering spot for family and friends, a symbol of romanticism and comfort, and visually attractive addition to many homes.
Gas Fireplace
Fireplaces are so popular that, in most parts of Canada, it ‘s hard to sell a new or existing home without one.
However, changes in the way houses are built and renovated have made most contemporary homes incompatible with conventional wood-burning fireplaces. Most notably, the increased insulation and improved airtightness of today’s homes run counter to the large amounts of air required by traditional wood fireplaces.
Such fireplaces are also extremely inefficient (many cause heat loss from the home) and produce high levels of harmful emissions, which pollute the outdoor air and can have dangerous effects on indoor air quality.
Everyone wants a fireplace!
The good news is that some new fireplace designs offer a safe, energy-efficient and environmentally friendly alternative to conventional wood fireplaces. One option is an advanced combustion wood-burning fireplace, as described in CODE OF PRACTICE FOR RESIDENTIAL WOOD BURNING APPLIANCES
A second option that is becoming popular across North America – a well-designed and energy-efficient gas fireplace is the subject of this article. In both cases, the new designs can be installed as an entirely new fireplace or as a conversion of an existing wood fireplace.
Gas fireplaces have increased in popularity over the past few years. For many homeowners, the attraction of owning a gas fireplace lies in the following:
the convenience of an on/off switch and a constant fuel supply
the cleanliness factor (gas fireplaces generate no mess regarding ashes, wood chips, bark, etc.)
the elimination of chimney cleaning
the safety of sealed-combustion units, which offer little chance for toxic combustion gasses to spill into the room
the environmental benefits as compared with those of a conventional wood fireplace
Although gas fireplaces have been around for a few years, many homeowners disliked their “fake-looking,” uninteresting flames. To counteract this negative perception of gas fireplaces, manufacturers have devoted much effort to produce a yellow flame that more closely resembles the glare of a wood-burning fireplace, yet is still clean-burning. As well, other aesthetic improvements have made gas fireplaces much more appealing to homeowners.
However, not all gas fireplaces are created equal. Some designs are extremely efficient, safe to operate and provide a lot of heat. Others can be very inefficient, and vent-free technology can cause indoor air-quality problems.
It pays to be an informed consumer. By knowing what to look for and what to avoid, you can select a gas fireplace that will suit your home’s decor, contribute to its heating needs and give you peace of mind.
Gas Fireplaces and the Environment
Gas fireplaces are noted for their clean-burning characteristics. Compared with wood fireplaces, natural gas and propane fireplaces produce much less carbon monoxide and particulate emissions.
However, no energy source is completely environmentally friendly. Natural gas and propane do release some pollutants when burned, primarily nitrogen oxides (which contribute to ground-level ozone, or smog) and carbon dioxide (a greenhouse gas). They also release significant amounts of moisture into the air. A poorly adjusted gas fireplace can generate incomplete combustion products, including carbon monoxide.
As with other energy-using appliances, it is important to keep in mind that buying an energy-efficient gas fireplace and using it wisely will use less energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions that contribute to climate change.
What to Look For
In recent years, a lot of efforts have gone into making good gas fireplaces. Some excellent units are available that offer a visually beautiful flame, are very efficient and can save energy in your home. The key features and terminology you will come across when shopping for a gas fireplace are discussed in the following.
Types of gas fireplaces
Three basic types of gas fireplaces are widely available in Canada:
inserts,
factory-built fireplaces (zero-clearance units)
free-standing designs.
Your biggest challenge will be sorting through the wide range of models available to select a unit that is as efficient as possible and that suits your particular needs.
Inserts are used to convert existing wood-burning masonry or factory-built metal fireplaces to gas. The gas burner and simulated logs are contained in a metal housing that fits into the existing fireplace cavity. The unit has a glass front for viewing and decorative metal trim. Existing chimneys must be relined with an approved vent when a gas insert is installed.
Zero-clearance gas fireplaces are used in installations where there is no existing fireplace (i.e., during new home construction or as part of a renovation project). The simulated logs and burner are inside their firebox, around which is an inner and outer shell.
This type of gas fireplace can be installed inside the house envelope, even against an outside wall. The manufacturer’s instructions must be followed carefully to ensure proper clearances from combustibles, and that approved venting materials are used.
Free-standing gas fireplaces typically resemble some of the new wood-burning stoves. These units tend to be more useful for supplying heat to the house since all of the fireplace’s surfaces are exposed to the room.
Free-Standing Gas Fireplace
The glass fronts used on all of these gas fireplaces can be manufactured from tempered or ceramic glass.
Ceramic glass is slightly better at transmitting infrared heat into the room. However, its principal benefit is that it can better withstand higher temperatures associated with sealed units.
Types of venting
Venting is required to remove combustion gasses from the firebox to the outdoors. Three options are available: natural draft venting, power venting, and direct venting.
Many of the gas fireplaces sold today evacuate combustion products using a vertical chimney (gas vent), which takes advantage of the natural draft caused by the temperature of the flame (hot air rises). These units have a draft hood that requires extra house air to isolate the burner from external pressure fluctuations.
Natural draft fireplaces typically use a B-vent or, in an existing chimney, an approved metal liner that includes a B-vent or a flexible metal liner.
Some gas fireplaces feature power venting, in which an electrical fan assists the venting process. Power venting allows units to be vented with horizontal and vertical flues from locations in a home where a conventional flue cannot be installed. Although power venting is not yet common, it can improve a fireplace’s efficiency and will use less house air, as a draft hood is not usually required.
With a direct-vent fireplace, outdoor combustion air is drawn directly into the firebox through one pipe, while combustion products are exhausted through another. The units are sealed, so there is no room air required for combustion and no loss of heated room air.
Direct-vent fireplaces are typically installed on an outside wall, with the vent running directly through the wall, although some models are approved for extended wall horizontal and vertical flues.
Venting may be either coaxial or collinear. Coaxial Venting uses two concentric pipes. The outer pipe brings combustion air in from the outdoors, and the inner pipe exhausts the combustion products. This is the method commonly used for sidewall venting.
Collinear venting uses two entirely separate pipes: one to supply combustion air and the other to exhaust combustion products. This method is most often used where there are space limitations when an existing fireplace and chimney have been retrofitted with a gas insert or where long vent distances and cold temperatures make condensation and vent icing a potential concern.
To be installed in an energy-efficient R-2000* home, a gas fireplace must be either direct-vented (sealed) or power-vented. This provides an additional level of protection against spillage of combustion products and helps increase the appliance’s efficiency.
Efficiency ratings
When purchasing a gas fireplace, ask about its efficiency first. However, a word of caution is necessary: many different methods have been used to measure the efficiency of gas fireplaces, some of which can give misleading results.
HeatGlo Gas Fireplace
Until recently, most efficiency ratings were steady-state measurements – the maximum efficiency the fireplace could achieve operating under controlled laboratory conditions and after running at equilibrium for an extended period. This measure does not take into account many of the ways in which heat loss occurs in a fireplace.
A steady-state rating is comparable to the good gas mileage a car achieves when cruising on the highway, as opposed to the much lower mileage you get in a start and stop city driving. With a gas fireplace, the actual operating efficiency of the unit once it is installed in your home will be lower than the steady-state efficiency – in some cases, much lower.
The new EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating
The best way to determine the efficiency of a gas fireplace is to ask for its Fireplace Efficiency rating based on the CSA-P.4 test method. Tests using this Canadian standard for measuring annual fireplace efficiency have shown that some units operated in the 30 percent range while the better units ranged from 50 percent to 70 percent.
As of September 2003, an agreement between the Government of Canada and the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI) established an energy efficiency rating system for vented gas fireplaces.
The EnerGuide rating system provides consumers with the assurance of a standardized method of testing, allowing them to compare different makes and models accurately. The testing provides a Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating based on products tested and certified to the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) test standard.
The standard assesses all gas fireplaces, whether they are decorative units or are used for space heating. It is an accurate measurement that reflects the overall operation of the fireplace, taking into account its use and performance throughout the entire heating season. The FE rating is expressed as a percentage; therefore, the higher the rating, the more efficient the unit.
The FE appears on the EnerGuide label and is presented in one of two ways, depending on whether the product literature lists only a single model or multiple models.
The EnerGuide label for gas fireplaces
This EnerGuide label with the vented gas fireplace FE rating is shown in manufacturers’ product literature that features a single model. As noted in the rating system explanation in the preceding, the higher the percentage, the more efficient the model.
This label is featured in product literature where multiple models with different FE ratings are shown. Each model number listed in the documentation will identify the EnerGuide FE rating directly beside the model number. Note that both labels display the statement “Based on CSA P.4.1-02.” This statement demonstrates that the FE rating is based on the testing method that all gas fireplaces sold in Canada must adhere to.
Energy efficiency considerations
Gas fireplaces are becoming popular, both for new homes and for the replacement of units in existing dwellings. Most units are built-in, whereas others are free-standing and resemble a wood stove. If you are looking for a gas fireplace, consider its particular application: Are you looking for a decorative appliance or a heating appliance? Is the unit the right size for space, or are there supplemental ways to help move the heat to other areas of the home? Do you understand the difference between zone heating and central heating?
Consider these points:
Every make and model has an EnerGuide rating, not just the most efficient ones.
Vented gas fireplaces can look attractive and still be energy efficient.
The EnerGuide label provides an FE number – the higher the number, the better the efficiency.
Higher-efficiency equipment saves energy. The actual saving depends on the location (i.e., the regional climate and cost of fuel), the efficiency of the vented gas fireplace and the efficiency of the house itself.
Be careful when comparing the different ratings for appliances that are classed as “decorative” and “heater.”EnerGuide gas fireplaces directory
A gas fireplace’s input rating is the amount of fuel energy the fireplace can consume in one hour. The output rating is the amount of heat supplied by the fireplace to the house. Both ratings are usually expressed in British thermal units per hour (Btu/h) or in gigajoules per hour (GJ/h).
A high input rating does not guarantee high heat output; heat output depends both on gas input and on the fireplace’s efficiency.
A high-efficiency fireplace burns much less gas to supply the same amount of heat compared with a low-efficiency fireplace. For example, a 20 000 Btu/h fireplace operating at 70 percent efficiency will provide the same amount of heat as a 40 000 Btu/h unit operating at 35 percent efficiency – and it will use only half the fuel in doing so!
Heat output, not input, is an important indicator when determining the proper size of an appliance for your needs. Remember that a bigger fireplace is not necessarily better. Take into consideration your home’s overall heating demand as well as the area where the fireplace will be installed, and select a unit that will match your needs.
In a small room, a fireplace with a high output rating could be overpowering and cause overheating and discomfort, rather than coziness. It will also consume more fuel than necessary to heat the room. A common problem is oversizing the fireplace for the application.
A fireplace with a lower output is the obvious solution. A fireplace that allows you to “dial down” the input considerably through modulation or turndown, or that has some means of moving heat out of the room to other parts of the house, will allow for greater control of heat output to prevent overheating.
Electronic or intermittent ignition vs. continuous pilot lights
In many gas fireplaces, a pilot light ignites the main burner as the unit is turned on. A pilot light is a small gas flame that, on its own, can consume from 600 to 1500 Btu of gas per hour and, if left to run continuously, can significantly increase your annual energy costs.
You will save energy and money by turning off the pilot light when the fireplace is not being used, especially during the summer, but also when the fireplace is not in frequent use during the heating season.
Other fireplaces have an automatic starter, such as an electronic ignition or another type of intermittent ignition device, that eliminates the need for a continuous pilot by restarting gas combustion each time a flame is desired. When purchasing a gas fireplace, consider one that does not have a continuous pilot light.
Some homeowners prefer a fireplace with an ongoing pilot light because it gives them an auxiliary heat source that is not dependent on electricity (i.e., the fireplace will operate even when there is a power failure). If this is your preference, look for a unit with a simple method for shutting off the pilot and a similarly convenient and safe means of relighting the pilot.
Do not confuse this feature with most remote control or wall-mounted switches, which often control the main gas flame while leaving the pilot to run continuously.
A variable setting control, which allows you to adjust heat output by regulating the fireplace’s rate of gas consumption, is another energy-saving feature to look for when purchasing a gas fireplace. This feature, also known as turndown, enables you to maintain better comfort levels, prevent overheating and still have a flame for viewing. At the same time, you may use less fuel by avoiding much of the energy loss that results when a fireplace repeatedly cycles on and off.
Look for a model that has a wide turndown range. Some gas fireplaces allow you a small turndown to only 70 percent of full load (for a 30 000 Btu/h fireplace, this means being able to reduce gas consumption to 21 000 Btu/h). Other models will allow you to go as low as 20 percent of full load (or down to 6000 Btu/h for a 30 000 Btu/h fireplace).
Some fireplaces can be connected to a certain amount of ductwork (much like a furnace), which can help distribute heat to more remote areas of the home while preventing overheating of the room in which the fireplace is installed.
Many gas fireplaces also offer automatic thermostat controls, which help keep the room temperature at a more constant level by automatically adjusting the firing rate. On efficient fireplaces that have a wide turndown range, this thermostat feature can reduce energy consumption while maintaining comfort and continuous viewing pleasure.
However, on units that operate at one setting only or that have a limited turndown capability, the thermostat may end up turning the fireplace on and off frequently, which may affect your enjoyment of the flame and can even waste energy.
Heat exchange and transfer
An important factor to consider when purchasing a gas fireplace is the unit’s heat-exchange capabilities. Gas fireplaces transfer heat to the house by two primary means: radiation and convection.
Radiation is the transfer of heat from flames and hot surfaces to solid objects, such as furniture, walls, and people, that are in the direct path of the heat source through infrared radiation. The hotter the source and the greater its ability to emit heat, the better the radiant heat transfer.
Radiant heat allows people to feel warm, even when the air around them may be cool. In other words, when you can see the flame, you can be comfortably warmed by radiant heat. This capability distinguishes fireplaces from many other heat sources, including central furnaces.
A factor worth considering is fireplace surface area and exposure. The more a unit’s surface is exposed to a room, the more readily it gives up the heat by radiation and convection. For this reason, free-standing and hearth- mounted fireplaces that protrude from the wall tend to have higher efficiencies.
A well-designed fireplace will have channels around and behind the combustion chamber, through which room air will naturally circulate by convection.
This is a process of heat transfer where the cool room air picks up heat energy from the fireplace surface causing air currents that transport heat throughout the room.
In addition to relying on convection, some units have a heat exchanger that extracts more heat from the combustion gasses and transfers it to the house. Fireplaces that have this feature, known as secondary heat exchange, will usually be more efficient than those that do not.
Variable-speed fireplace fans can increase the amount of convective heat supplied by a fireplace by forcing heat into the room. These fans also improve the circulation of air throughout the room.
Look for quiet fans that won’t take away from your enjoyment of the fire. A ceiling fan can improve the circulation of the heated air from a fireplace and pull the more buoyant hot air down from the ceiling.
Locating a Fireplace for Maximum Benefit
If your home-building or renovation plans include an efficient gas fireplace, take some time to plan the installation so that the fireplace can effectively contribute to your heating needs.
An efficient gas fireplace can lower a home’s overall energy consumption and heating bills when located in a major living area where the heat has access to other parts of the house.
Install the fireplace in a part of the house where it will be visually attractive and where you and your family spend most of your time and will benefit the most from its warmth. This is usually on the main floor, in your family room, dining room, living room or kitchen.
The layout of your house will affect the fireplace’s ability to provide heat to other areas of the house. If you are building a new home, consider a layout that focuses on the fireplace. An open design, where there are few walls to separate rooms on the main floor, will allow heat to move from the fireplace area to other rooms. An accessible stairwell will also allow the heat to move upstairs.
Efficient natural gas fireplaces can be an effective means of lowering heating costs and improving comfort levels in homes heated by electric baseboards. The baseboards in remote rooms can keep those areas at acceptable temperatures, effectively “zoning” the house, with the gas fireplace providing most of the “comfort” heat for the rest of the home.
A properly located and well-designed fireplace can meet over half the conventional heating demands of the standard house while providing a visually appealing and comfortable atmosphere.
If your house’s layout is such that the best location for a fireplace is against an outside wall, try to build the fireplace inside the house envelope. If this cannot be done, look for a fireplace with an insulated outer casing.
Insulation is also important for a gas fireplace insert that is installed in an existing outside wall fireplace to eliminate direct heat loss from the fireplace through an outside wall.
Another option to minimize heat loss is to locate the fireplace and chimney on an inside wall. By surrounding the vent with warm rather than cold air, you ensure better draft and reduce the chances of the house becoming a better chimney than the chimney itself.
If you must install a gas fireplace in the basement, a direct-vent unit is likely your best bet since it does not require a chimney.
A direct-vent fireplace can be exhausted out the sidewall of the house above the foundation, and it is sealed to prevent combustion exhaust spillage or the robbing of air for combustion from the furnace or water heater.
Seriously consider insulating the basement before you install a fireplace there. As it will be harder to distribute heat, find a low-input fireplace or a unit that can have ducts to transfer the heat elsewhere.
The house as a chimney
An operating chimney is an enclosed column of warm air or gasses surrounded by colder outside air. The warm air or gas in the chimney is more buoyant than the dense, cold outside air, so it rises, producing a natural vertical draft in the system.
In the winter, your house is also an enclosed column of warm air that creates its form of a draft. In effect, the warm air pushes upward, creating higher air pressure at the top of the house and lower pressure in the lower levels of the house.
When an unsealed (non-direct-vent) gas fireplace has been installed in a home that has a lower pressure than outside, the house can become a more efficient chimney than the fireplace chimney itself – especially if the chimney is located on an outside wall.
Rather than using the chimney to release combustion gasses to the outdoors, air can be drawn back under negative pressure into the home through the chimney. This reverse flow of air can cause spillage of combustion gasses from a fireplace or other combustion appliances into the home, creating hazardous indoor air-quality problems.
Summary of Features to Look for in an Energy-Efficient Gas Fireplace
When shopping for an energy-efficient gas fireplace, ask for the EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) ratings
of the fireplaces you are interested in. Using this information, narrow your choices to the fireplaces that have relatively high efficiencies and can supply the kind of heat output needed for the location you have chosen.
The most energy-efficient gas fireplaces have many of the following features:
a high EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating as tested to CSA P.4.1-02, found in product brochures or on manufacturers’ Web sites
direct-vent design, where appropriate
an intermittent electronic ignition system or an easy means of turning off and relighting the pilot light
a ceramic glass front
a quiet squirrel-cage-type circulating fan to help transfer convective heat to the room
secondary heat exchanger
insulated outer casing to prevent heat loss through the walls to the outside if located on an exterior wall
good turndown or other means such as ducting to prevent localized overheating
In addition to knowing what to look for in an energy-efficient gas fireplace, it is important to know what is not recommended. In the case of gas logs, ceramic “logs” with gas burners are placed directly into an existing wood fireplace to give the effect of burning fire.
These gas logs provide no real heat to the house and are essentially a waste of energy and money, as well as a potential source of pollutants, although they can provide an attractive fire.
Gas logs can also cause venting system problems, particularly in colder regions. This is primarily because wood fireplace chimneys are not designed to handle the low-temperature, low-flow, high-moisture flue gasses. If a wood fireplace chimney is not relined to accommodate these gasses, the chances of flue gas condensation and chimney deterioration are high.
As well, if the fireplace is on an outside wall, there is a risk that the gas burners will not generate enough heat to create a good draft.
Under these conditions, the house can become a better chimney than the chimney itself (see sidebar on page 20), disrupting the flame and drawing carbon monoxide and other combustion products back into the living area.
What to Avoid
A type of gas fireplace to avoid in Canadian housing – the vent-free gas fireplace – is available in the United States. As the name implies, these units do not vent to the outdoors; all the combustion gasses (including carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides and large amounts of water vapor) are released directly into the house.
These fireplaces can cause serious indoor air quality and moisture problems, particularly in airtight Canadian homes. They are not approved for use in Canada.
Installing Your Gas Fireplace
Having chosen a good location for your efficient gas fireplace, you should ensure that it is installed by a qualified technician. In most areas, a special installation permit is required before you begin, as well as an inspection once the work is completed.
Check with the dealer, your municipality or your gas utility for details. You should also inform your insurance company.
Some dealers offer full installation services. Independent, qualified contractors also install this equipment. Make sure to get several estimates. When you are comparing the estimates, take into account the contractor’s knowledge and experience, as well as the materials to be used.
Estimates should include the following:
an itemized list of all labor and material costs included in the estimate, as well as the total cost for all necessary work
a statement that clearly defines who is responsible for– all necessary permits and the payment of related fees– on-site inspections by the utility and other local authority – the scheduling of work that must be done by the utility, such as supply pipe installation and hookup
a clear indication of when the work will be completed
a warranty for materials and labor
a schedule and method of payment. Ask each contractor for the names of homeowners for whom they have installed similar fireplaces, and contact these references. It is also a good idea to check with the Better Business Bureau to see if complaints have been filed on any of the companies you are considering.Finally, do not hesitate to ask the installer for a clear explanation of any aspect of the work before, during or after the installation of your gas fireplace.
Safety Tips for Operating Your Gas Fireplace
• If your fireplace is installed in a home during construction or renovation, do not operate it until the area is thoroughly cleaned. Drywall dust and other contaminants can harm the fan, motors, and burners.
• Check the manufacturer’s instructions before adding or modifying a mantle or surround (minimum clearances are required).
• Have your fireplace inspected before its initial use – and continue to have it serviced on a regular basis.
• Carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions before operating the fireplace for the first time.
• Keep combustibles away from hot surfaces during operation.
• If the pilot light or flame goes out, wait five minutes, or longer (see the manufacturer’s instructions) before attempting to relight the fireplace. This allows time to clear the fireplace of gas and is particularly important with direct-vent models.
• Be alert for unusual odors or flames, which are often a sign that the fireplace is not operating properly. In such cases, contact your dealer for servicing. Contact the gas company if you smell gas.
• Make sure that air-circulating passageways and fans are kept clean and free from obstruction.
• Wait for the unit to cool completely before wiping the glass with a damp cloth (otherwise, you can cause thermal stress and breakage).
• If the glass breaks, have a qualified service technician replace it with glass supplied by the manufacturer.
• With sidewall-exhausting, direct-vent units, keep the external vent clear of debris and snow at all times and maintain the manufacturer’s minimum clearances between the vent and fences, shrubs and walkways, etc.
• If you do not have a sealed direct-vent fireplace, consider installing a carbon monoxide detector near the fireplace. These devices continually monitor the air for carbon monoxide and sound an alarm when high levels are detected, just as a smoke detector will signal the possible existence of fire (all Canadian homes should already be properly equipped with smoke detectors).
If your carbon monoxide detector goes off, open the windows, shut the fireplace off and leave the house immediately.
If anyone experiences headaches, extreme lethargy or nausea during such an occurrence, he or she should immediately seek medical treatment.
It is also critical that you determine the source and cause of the high carbon monoxide levels and have the situation remedied by a professional.
Using Your Gas Fireplace Efficiently
Purchasing an energy-efficient gas fireplace and properly locating and installing it are critical first steps in controlling your fireplace’s operating costs and helping the environment. However, it is also important to use the fireplace wisely once it is installed. Follow these basic guidelines to maximize your fireplace’s performance and minimize its energy consumption.
• If you buy a unit with a pilot light, make sure that you turn off the pilot light during the summer and during the heating season when you are not frequently using your fireplace. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when relighting.
• When the fireplace is operating, turn down your home’s main thermostat whenever possible.
• If the fireplace has a thermostat, keep it at the lowest setting possible for an acceptable comfort level – turn it down when you are not using it (otherwise the thermostat could cycle the fireplace on even when the room is not being used or when no one is home).
• Keep the glass clean to maximize radiant heat transfer.
Remember that a well-designed, energy-efficient gas fireplace, properly located and maintained, can give you hours of pleasure and comfort while reducing your overall heating bill.
Produced by “Office of Energy Efficiency Natural Resources Canada.”
A deck is a popular home improvement that not only adds to the value of your home but provides a focal point for enjoying the outdoors.
You’ll want to consider carefully the design elements that go into your deck – it should include the features that match your lifestyle and complement the deck design of your house.
Planning is the most important part of building a deck because, chances are, you’ll be living with your design for a long time. There are several considerations when planning and designing a deck.
The most important factor in deck design is how you will use it. Do you entertain frequently, and if so, how large a group will you need space for?
What kind of seating will you need–would you or your guests be more comfortable on built-in benches or patio furniture? Do you want the space arranged to accommodate conversations between small groups or in one large common area?
Will you need adequate lighting to entertain at night?
Try to imagine all the ways you’d like to use your deck because most design elements will be based on those kinds of preferences.
Location of your Deck
Chances are, the size and orientation of your property and house limit you to one or two deck locations.
But within those limits, you may have more choices than you think. You may be able to add a door, build a walkway or incorporate a privacy screen that will allow you to locate your deck, so it is most convenient for your intended uses.
Deck Picture
The climate in your area and the views you’ll see are the major factors to consider when deciding where to place your deck.
A north-side deck will probably be the coolest location. Southern or western orientations may be too warm in the middle of the summer unless you include an overhead screen or build the deck around an existing shade tree.
You may be able to avoid prevailing winds by locating your deck where the house will provide some protection.
Likewise, careful placement can minimize traffic noise, eliminate unwanted views or provide additional privacy. If you plan to include a hot tub or swimming pool in your projects, privacy considerations for you and your guests may be imperative.
Legal Considerations
Before you decide on a location, first check local zoning ordinances.
They will limit the overall size of your deck, height of any privacy screens and the minimum distance from your deck to your lot lines. Neighborhood or subdivision covenants may restrict the appearance of the structure, and you’ll have to get approval for your design.
Also, check with the local building department to find out whether you’ll be required to have a building permit and what kind of plans you’ll have to submit.
Finally, be sure to check with your local utility companies to make sure you won’t run afoul of utility rights-of-way and to locate buried pipes and utility lines.
Size of your Deck
You can build any size deck you want within legal limits. But even within those limits, a deck can be either too big or too small.
The most important consideration (aside from cost) is use, but a huge deck can look out of place next to a little house, just as a tiny deck seems wrong with a big house.
If you think your dream deck is too large for your house, break up the expanse by building smaller sections on multiple levels. * To test your ideas, measure the size you want on your lawn. Drive 4′ stakes at the approximate corners, then tie the string between them at about the height of the railings.
Set your lawn furniture in the area to get an idea of how space will work. The most common mistake people make is building a deck too small. The difference in cost between a deck that is a little too small and one that is the right size usually isn’t that much. * One tip: If possible, size your deck in 2′ or 4′ increments.
You’ll have to buy standard lumber lengths anyway, and there’s no point in wasting that material when you could have a larger deck for the same amount of money.
There are a variety of decking patterns you can use, including herringbone, diagonal and checkerboard. A more complicated deck will likely require more materials.
Building codes will determine the configuration of your stairs, including the rise, run, and passage width. Draw a to-scale design of your deck on graph paper to price accurately all the materials you’ll need.
Shape and Decking Patterns
A deck can be any shape you want, and in fact, simple changes like an angled corner or a 45-degree decking pattern can dress up a house with a long, plain wall.
Of course, a more complicated deck is harder to build and may require more materials. You can also add visual interest by wrapping the deck around a corner, adding built-in benches, integrating a fence or screen on one side or even adding an overhead screen.
Height
Usually, the decking should come to within 2 ” of the bottom of the access door from the house, with steps leading from the deck to the ground. On sloped ground, you may want to build your deck in multiple levels to follow the slope.
Typically, wherever the deck is more than 48″ off the ground, codes require that the posts be braced to prevent swaying and rocking. * Cutouts–A spa or hot tub can be set on the deck if the structure is reinforced to carry the weight of the water, or it can be adjusted directly on a concrete slab on the ground with the deck built around it.
Existing trees and rocks can also be integrated into the deck by framing around them; then either cap the ends of the decking or contour the decking to the shape of the obstacle. If you work around a tree, leave at least 3″ on all sides to allow for growth. Around a stationary object such as a boulder, leave about 1/4″ so the decking can expand and contract with temperature and moisture changes.
Railings
Railings are the most prominent visual element in a deck and offer an excellent opportunity to use your imagination and creativity. They may be fastened to posts that run all the way to the ground, along the sides of the rim joists or attached to the decking itself. They may include wood, metal or even rope–nearly anything that satisfies structural requirements. Your railing design will be limited primarily by building code regulations that are intended to ensure safety.
Typically, those codes state that support posts may be no more than 6′ apart and that the railing may have no spaces larger than 4″ x 4″. The durability of your railing will also be affected by the design. For example, the ends of the railing posts should be covered or cut at an angle to shed water, to minimize cracking and splitting. Step and stair construction is strictly regulated by building codes. As a rule, steps and stairs should be at least 36″ wide–60″ if you want two people to be able to pass each other comfortably.
The rise (vertical distance between steps) should be no more than 7-1/2″ and the width of a thread at least 10″. The slope should not be too steep–a 7″ riser with a 10-1/2″ tread is a typical combination. Building codes will also govern how the stair is supported and attached and whether or not you need a railing.
Structural Components
There are five basic components of a typical deck:
1. Vertical posts are set in concrete or on piers set on a concrete footing. They are typically spaced 4′ to 8′ apart.
2. Horizontal beams are set on the posts parallel to the decking to carry the weight of the deck.
3. Joists are run between the beams, typically 16″ or 24″ apart. They distribute the weight of the deck and allow you to use decking boards that wouldn’t be strong enough to span the distance between the beams.
4. Decking is laid over the joists to form the “floor” of the deck. 5. Railings are usually 36″ to 42″ high, designed so no spaces between balusters are greater than 4″. The materials used, and the size and spacing of these components, are specified by local building codes.
Materials
Deck materials must not only be resistant to decay and insect damage but also withstand the effects of water and sun. Standard construction lumber such as fur, pine or spruce may be treated to protect it from rot, but it won’t hold up under extreme weather conditions or the ultraviolet rays in sunlight. You’ll get much better durability by using pressure-treated pine, redwood or cedar.
The pressure-treated material is the least expensive and can be stained to nearly any color you want. Redwood and cedar offer an added advantage in that they are soft, fine-grained woods that will resist splintering. If you use redwood or cedar, remember that only the heartwood–the reddish-colored portion of redwood or the dark brownish-orange part of a cedar board–is decay-resistant. The lighter-colored sapwood will deteriorate just as quickly as pine or spruce.
Ontario Home Builder Claims Minimum of 50% Energy Savings on New Homes
As North American households face heating bills averaging at least 20 % higher than last years; the connection between household energy use and energy prices is evident to everyone.
Energy efficiency remains the quickest, cheapest, cleanest way to help lower home energy bills, extend the nation’s energy supplies, bring down energy costs and fatten homeowner’s wallet.
Energy efficiency shouldn’t be a headache – in fact, it can be very rewarding. Not only is increasing the energy efficiency of home a step toward the better use of fuel and less pollution, but it also offers greater security and independence, lower energy bills and makes a home more comfortable place to live.
Meet “Steve Jobs” Of Energy Efficient Home Building!
“Retrofitting energy efficiency can be expensive, but when you build a new home, it is relatively easy and cheap to make it energy-efficient”, states Harvey Juric, President of ICFhome.ca. Harvey is a veteran builder, whose company has been building energy-efficient homes in Southern Ontario since 1990.
He goes on to say, “The task is achieved by marrying several of the latest technologies and developments in home construction”.
The development and increasing use of Insulated Concrete Forms in construction is one of the main breakthroughs in high energy-efficiency in new homes.
These “forms” are Styrofoam blocks that get filled with steel reinforced concrete and form the shape of the building. They double the insulation value, triple the sound resistance and quadruple the strength of the building.
Another important component in energy-efficient homes is Radiant Floor Heating; which the industry claims will alone achieve savings of 20% on the heating bill. Not to mention that it gives an unprecedented comfort during those cold and long winter nights.
Add to this a High Efficiency (98%) Tank-Less Water Heater that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water, and the picture gets a little clearer.
Complete the package with a Heat Recovery Ventilator connected to a sophisticated “Earth Energy” system that uses a series of underground pipes to pre-condition the incoming air.
This simple solution pre-heats your incoming air in the winter and pre-colls it in the summer.
Combine these four energy-efficient breakthroughs and the result is a home that will slash at least 50% of an average home heating bills. It will stand up to fire, noise, sun, wind, rain, snow, bugs, mould and inevitable Acts of God like, earthquakes and hurricanes; A home that is safer, stronger and healthier than any other home ever seen;
“The only question left to answer is how much does it all cost?” Juric says confidently, “Based on experience, your initial investment for this type of home is a little more (approximately 10% more compared to conventionally built home) or considerably less when thinking of long-term costs, not only for you and your family but also for the planet we live on”.
Juric further explains, “The “payback period” in fuel and maintenance would be between ten to fifteen years but considering the alternative of keeping the status quo during predictions of a looming energy crisis, it is a very reasonable and logical solution.”
When buying a new home, consciously choose to make informed decisions concerning the future of you and your family. A little bit of planning and common sense can go a long way in making a home more energy-efficient and paying dividends for years to come.
One of the significant demographic trends in the North America during the past two decades has been the increase in the percentage of individuals with disabilities.
It is projected that by 2030, 25 percent of all North Americans will be over the age of 65. Statistically, 42 percent of all seniors, 65 and over, have some form of disability. Of these, approximately 28 percent reported having a physical handicap.
Many of these disabilities make it difficult for people to perform life activities in traditionally designed residential settings. The difficulties include managing stairs, walking long distances, reaching, bending or bathing. Accessible design means creating homes so that individuals with or without disabilities can use them more efficiently.
Many accessible design components are adaptable to existing structures and can be added or removed to address the needs of specific users. Many products that assist accessibility are designed to blend with their surroundings.
The following is the list of things you have to take in consideration while building or renovating for accessible design
The main floor at ground level with no steps or ramps needed to enter. At a minimum, one entrance should be at ground level.
Maintenance-free exterior and trim.
Walkway from the point that a vehicle is exited to a barrier-free entrance.
Level walkways with little or no slope. Any slope should be very gradual – no more than 1 inch of rise per 20 inches of a walkway.
Trees, shrubs and plants that require little maintenance (raking, pruning, watering, etc.).
All walkways at least 36 inches wide. Kitchen, bath, laundry and at least one sleeping room (no smaller than 12 feet by 12 feet) on the main floor.
The sleeping room can be used for different purposes at different times, i.e., den, office, playroom.
Open floor plan (avoid long, narrow hallways); consider large open areas without sharp boundaries between rooms, i.e. kitchen/dining/family room area. Large enough to accommodate normal furnishings and allow easy maneuvering around them.
The easy passage from the kitchen to dining area.
Hard floor surfaces are recommended. Plush
carpeting is to be avoided.
Avoid changes in floor levels or floor materials (such as vinyl to carpet) to prevent tripping while carrying food and drink.
Door at least 36 inches wide to allow for a 34-inch clear opening when the door is opened at a right angle.
No split-level entry.
Porch floor, stoop or landing at the same level as the floor inside the home (no step up or down to enter home).
Door locks that are easy to operate, such as keyless locks with a remote control or keypad. Lever-style door handles (not round doorknobs).
Peepholes at heights for adults, children, and people using a wheelchair; or sidelights (tall, narrow window along one or both sides of the door).
Good lighting both inside and outside the entrance.
No raised threshold – much easier for strollers, wheelchairs, walkers, rolling luggage, etc., and reduces the risk of tripping.
A roof, canopy or awning to protect the entrance from rain and snow (essential when you have no raised threshold under the door).
Ample landing space both outside and inside the entry door (5 feet by 5 feet for the outside landing). The outside landing should be set off to the side (on the handle edge of the door) to be out of the way of the door swing.
Front entrance table on which items can be placed during transitions.
Enough clear counter space to set down dishes next to all appliances and cupboards.
Plenty of open floor space to maneuver around the kitchen.
Anti-scald faucet with a single lever (not two knobs or two handles to turn on and off).
Counters and another work surface at two or more different heights. The lower counter height should have open space beneath to accommodate seated use.
Rounded corners, not sharp edges, on counters.
Open space under the sink to allow for a seated user (be sure to insulate pipes to avoid burns), with flooring material laid all the way to the wall under the sink.
Raised platform under dishwasher to reduce bending and kneeling. Storage can be incorporated into the platform. Dishwasher height should be determined by the comfort levels of those who use it most, and by what makes sense in the kitchen workflow.
Appliance controls that are easy to read, easy to reach and can be operated by persons with limited vision.
Easy access to kitchen storage (pull-out shelves, lazy-susans in corner cupboards, adjustable-height cupboards).
Good task lighting over sink, stove and other work areas.
Ovens should be accessible for seated use: with side-swinging doors and breadboards below to support items being taken from the oven. Door 36 inches wide to allow for a 34-inch clear opening when the door is open at a right angle.
Ample floor space for maneuvering between bathroom fixtures. Allow at least 30 inches by 48 inches of clear floor space among the fixtures; 60 inches by 60 inches is ideal. (If your shower entrance has no raised threshold, the shower floor can provide part of the clear maneuvering space)
Walk-in shower with little or no threshold or lip to step over – ideally no more than 1/2 inch and beveled to provide a little “ramp” rather than a tripping obstacle. Slope the shower floor a maximum of 1/8 inch per foot.
Shower size minimum 40 x 40 inches. For roll-in shower and assistance by an attendant, allow 40 x 60 inches.
Alternatively, design a bathroom closet that can be converted to a walk-in shower, or place the tub in such a way that it can later be replaced with a walk-in shower.
Adjustable-height, handheld showerhead, with controls that are conveniently placed and easy to operate.
Properly reinforced grab bars in the bath and shower, and at least reinforced walls to allow for grab bars near the toilet.
Anti-scald faucet with a single-lever handle, for both the sink and the tub or shower.
Extra electrical outlets near the bed (for medical equipment or rechargeable items, for example), placed 18 inches to 24 inches above the floor.
Closet rods reachable from a seated or standing position, or adjustable-height rods.
Brace ceiling if a tracked ceiling lift will be needed.
Heights and layout are easily accessible for all household members.
Well-lit, with a switch located outside the storage area.
Adjustable-height shelving and closet rods.
Doors and handles that are easy to operate (avoid bi-fold or accordion-type doors).
Ample room for maneuvering strollers, lawn mowers, bicycles, wheelchairs, around vehicles. Provide at least a 3-foot clear path around and between all vehicles.
The easy pathway from the garage to the home entrance (no steps to climb, all walks 36″ wide). All doors 36 inches wide to allow for a 34-inch clear opening when the door is open.
Wide, spacious hallways and doorways for moving furniture as well as for maneuvering a wheelchair or walker.
Hallways widths of 42 inches are recommended: 36 inches minimum.
Lever-type door handles (not round doorknobs). FLOORS
Single level – no sunken floors or split-levels.
No changes of level between rooms. If there must be a threshold between two different flooring surfaces, make it very low and beveled.
If there must be a step up or down, mark it well with a highly visible, color-contrasting material at the edge.
Non-slip flooring throughout the house, especially in the bathroom, kitchen and laundry.
Carpeting that is sturdy, low-pile, and tightly woven (such as Berber style).
Eliminate throw rugs to minimize the risk of tripping.
Laundry area on the main floor, near the bathroom and bedrooms (if laundry is in the basement initially, make provisions that would allow relocating it to the main floor – an easily adaptable space with electrical and plumbing connections).
Good task lighting in the laundry work area.
Appliance controls that are easy to reach and operate, ideally at the front of the appliance. Energy-efficient windows that are easy to open, close and lock and require little strength to use (crank handles are a good choice).
Placement at a height that allows people to see outdoors while seated or standing – with window sills about 24 to 30 inches above the floor.
Light switches placed about 36 inches to 40 inches above the floor.
Large rocker-style switches that is easy to turn on and off.
Electrical outlets placed about 18 inches to 24 inches above the floor, to minimize the need for bending down.
Thermostat and other controls placed about 48 inches above the floor.
Thermostat and control panels that are easy to read and simple to operate (check accessible equipment stores or websites).
Telephone, cable, and modem jacks placed about 18 inches above the floor.
Circuit breaker panel on the main floor and easy to access, perhaps in the laundry area.
Sturdy handrails on both sides of all stairways, whether inside or outside of the home. For round rails, the usual size is 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
Stair treads deep enough for the entire foot – at least 8 inches, but 10 to 11 inches is better.
No carpeting on stairs, to reduce the risk of slipping. If carpeting is installed, use a tight weave and no padding.
No open risers (open spaces between each step).
Steps with no “nosing” (in other words, the thread should not extend out beyond the riser) to minimize the risk of tripping.
All stairways well lit, with a light switch at the top and bottom (light switches about 36 inches to 40 inches above the floor).
Anti-slip strips on front edges of steps, in a colour-contrast material.
Choosing a Custom Home Builder – What You Need to Know
If you’re in the market for a new home, you should shop for your builder as carefully as you shop for your home.
Whether you are buying a condo, a townhouse, a house in a subdivision, or a custom built home, you want to know that you are buying a good quality home from a reputable builder.
Once you have thought about the type of house you want, where should you look for a builder?
First, check your local Google listings to obtain a list of builders who construct homes in your area.
Look in the real estate section of you local newspaper for builders and projects. Looking through the ads and reading the articles can help you to learn which builders are active in your area, the types of homes they are building, and the prices you can expect to pay.
Make a list of builders who build the type of home you’re looking for in your price range.
Local real estate agents may also be able to help you in your search. Ask friends and relatives for recommendations. Ask about builders they have dealt with directly, or ask them for names of acquaintances who have recently had a good experience with a builder.
Do Your Homework
Once you have a list of builders, how can you find out about their reputations and the quality of their work? The best way to learn about builders is to visit homes they have built and talk with the owners.
Ask builders on your list for the addresses of their recently built homes and subdivisions. Builders may even be able to provide names of some homeowners who would be willing to talk with you.
Drive by on a Saturday morning when homeowners may be outside doing chores or errands. Introduce yourself and say you are considering buying a home from the builder who built their home. Talk to several owners, and try to get a random sample of opinions.
The more people you talk with, the more accurate an impression of a builder you are likely to get. At the very least, drive by and see if the homes are visually appealing.
When you talk to builders and homeowners, take along a notebook to record the information you find and your personal impressions about specific builders and homes. Doing so will help you to make comparisons later.
Some questions you can ask people include: Are you happy with your home? If you had any problems, were they repaired promptly and adequately? Would you buy another home from this builder?
Usually, people tell you if they are pleased with their homes, and if they are not, they’ll probably want to tell you why.
Shop For Quality and Value
Look at new homes whenever you can. Home shows and open houses sponsored by builders are good opportunities to look at homes. Model homes and houses displayed in home shows are often furnished to give you ideas for using the space. You may also ask a builder to see his unfurnished homes.
When examining a home, look at the quality of the construction features. Inspect the quality of the cabinetry, carpeting, trim work, and paint. Look out for shortcuts taken. A quality builder and painter will caulk every place where wood meets wood or sheetrock. Look inside cabinets to be sure that everything is caulked.
Also, run your hand over the surfaces of wood to be sure that the wood was properly sanded before painting. Ask the builder or the builder’s representative a lot of questions. Get as many specifics as possible. If you receive the answers verbally rather than in writing, take notes. Never hesitate to ask a question. What seems like an irrelevant question might yield a meaningful response.
Always keep valuing mind when shopping. Just because a home is less expensive than another does not mean it is better valued. Likewise, a more expensive home does not automatically assure higher quality.
Another important aspect of value is design quality. When you look at a home, determine whether will it suit your lifestyle. Is there enough living space? Are there enough bedrooms and bathrooms? What about storage space?
Will you have room to accommodate special interests or hobbies–for example, a large kitchen if you enjoy cooking or a room for a home office or exercise room?
Think about the amount of upkeep required both indoors and out. Consider also the location of the property. Is it convenient to transportation, your job, shopping, schools or other places of interest to you?
Ask Questions About Service
One important criterion for selecting a builder is the warranty provided on the home. ”
Tarion”, new home warranty corporation, has a strict warranty law for items that builders must do for the homeowner. A builder must enroll every new home. See ‘new home warranty’ on this website for more information.
Although reading legal documents is tedious, read the warranty to understand what protection you will have. Don’t wait to read it until after you move in and a problem arises. If you have any questions about the coverage, ask the builder.
Also, find out from each builder what kind of service you can expect after the sale. Typically, a builder makes two service calls during the first year after you move in to repair nonemergency problems covered by your warranty.
The first call is usually 30 to 120 days after the move-in, and the second is around the eleventh month–right before any one-year warranties on workmanship and materials expire. For emergencies, the builder should be able to send someone to your home right away.
Other Questions
How long has the company been in business?
Whom do you contact for customer service after the sale? Should requests be in writing?
Who will be responsible for correcting problems with major appliances?
Does the builder belong to the local builders association (affiliated with the National Association of Home Builders?)
Does the builder use state-of-the-art energy features? Equipment, insulation, design, and landscaping can all affect a home’s energy efficiency.
A new home is one of the biggest and most important purchases you will make in your lifetime. By doing your homework, you will be able to shop for a home with a sense of confidence and the knowledge that will help you make the right decision.
If you have additional questions about selecting a builder, the home builders association in your area can help you find the answers.
What all does it take to build a house? Today’s homes resemble multifaceted machines and the successful home builder has the knowledge, organizational skills and drive to build them.
What Does A Home Builder Do
So, What does a home builder do?
A home builder must understand how the home’s complex systems work, pay attention to detail, and coordinate various contractors in a team effort to build and sell a quality product.
To coordinate this process, builders must think on their feet, plan ahead and do a number of tasks simultaneously. Above all, a home builder is a manager who guides dozens of skilled artisans and professionals, such as carpenters, architects, engineers, plumbers, electricians, painters, and landscapers.
The home builder must know enough about each contractor’s trade to determine whether that contractor has done a quality job.
The home builder, like a CEO, relies on a number of workers to get a job done right and has the authority to approve or disapprove of each employee’s efforts. Some home builders develop the land on which homes are built. In this capacity, they act as the land surveyor.
They must look carefully at a piece of land to determine whether it complies with zoning regulations, local planning laws and environmental restrictions and whether it is suitable for development.
In an attempt to determine what lies below the land’s surface, the home builder studies a lot’s topography, searching for rock outcroppings, shallow depth bedrock, shallow groundwater, natural drainage sources and dense vegetation. During this process, the builder also considers landscaping options and erosion control.
Once the builder determines a site suitable for construction, they must navigate through the permitting process. Home builders serve as liaisons with their communities and local government officials.
They research and study local building codes to find out what they can build in which location. In most localities, building codes govern building, plumbing, heating and air conditioning, electrical systems, and fire safety. After studying the building codes, the builder collects permits from various authorities before proceeding with construction.
Once through the permitting process, the builder can prepare the site, stake out the exact house location, get out the hard hat and start building.
The home builder then oversees the entire construction process: laying the foundation; erecting the framing, roofing, and siding; nailing in the floor; building the walls, and installing in the exterior trim. And, the builder oversees the installation of plumbing, heating, and electrical work. A home builder also plays the role of inspector.
Throughout the construction phase, the local building department checks the building site to search for code violations. But the professional home builder scours each construction site long before and after the officials show up to make certain each home he builds meets both code and warranty guidelines.
Once the house is finished, the builder informs the appropriate municipal departments that it is ready for final inspection. One goal drives the professional home builder — a satisfied customer.
To meet this objective, home builders act as public relations professionals. Content customers will recommend a builder to other prospective homebuyers, helping the builder’s business to grow.
Home builders discuss the construction process and building schedule with their customers. They also plan times when the homebuyers can tour the building site and ask questions about the status of their new home.
Home builders are businesspeople who work with materials suppliers and trade contractors. They often establish a network of materials suppliers and contractors with whom they conduct business on a regular basis. The quality of the labor and materials will determine the quality of the home. 
Home builders are schedules and record keepers. To keep the construction process moving, builders keep construction timelines and schedules. They have to arrange schedules with contractors until the house is finished. All in all, builders must wear many hats before home buyers have places to hang theirs. 
Picking the right home builder is a critical step in the quest that points to your dream home.
Asking builders the 19 questions underneath will assist you in choosing the right builder to construct your home — and give you trust in your choice.
These questions will also assist you in understanding better key steps in the building methods and the choices you’ll make, in combination with the builder, to bring your home to life. The following are 19 essential questions to ask a builder when building a house in Ontario:
Questions to Ask Your Custom Home Builder
19 Questions to Ask Your Custom Home Builder
1. How long have you been building in the area?
Choose a qualified, reputable builder who has been building in your area for no less than five years. The experienced builder will know the area landscape, storm drainage, property boundaries, property values, sewer, and water locations, electrical power and natural gas availability, traffic patterns, building codes and inspections, and the neighborhood desirability.
2. Does this builder have good quality tradesman?
A right custom home builder and his trades will care about the construction of your new home as if it were their own. They should be willing to communicate with you as often as necessary and be prepared to offer opinions or suggestions so you can make quality decisions.
3. Can you give me three previous clients in the area as references?
Ask his previous clients about the contractor’s ability to do a good job. Contractors may not always be perfect, but if they care about their work and care about customer satisfaction, the finished work will be up to your expectations.
4. Who will be in charge of your project?
Ask each custom homebuilder if he will be overseeing the management of the construction site, or will his superintendents be running the project? Even if the builder has superintendents, does he at least inspect the job site 4 to 5 times a week? What role does the builder play in the construction of your new home? Will he be the one in control and managing the project?
5. Can I show your construction contract to my lawyer before signing it?
Does the builder’s construction contract give a clear guideline for your building process? Is it thorough enough to cover the worst of problems? Does it include insurance, change order procedures, warranties, construction time, disputes, financing, builder’s liabilities, budgets, specifications of construction, and allowances?
6. Are you licensed & insured?
This should be a quick question with a no hesitation answer, but you may be surprised. If you are using a lender to finance the construction, they’ll require the builder to provide proof of their licensing and insurance, but if you’re not financing, make sure you receive confirmation. On insurance, it’s important to confirm the builder is not only carrying General Liability and Worker’s Compensation coverage but is also providing Builders Risk, which is equivalent to Property Insurance during construction.
7. What’s your warranty, and how do you handle issues?
Any reputable builder will have a 1-year warranty, and some will even have a 10-year structural warranty. What you want to understand with this question is, how does the builder handle borderline warranty items? What happens if an issue comes up in month 14? Is it’s time up, or will he help you out? This is typically a great question to ask past customers as well.
8. What’s your experience, and how is it relevant to my home?
Experience matters, right? Sure it does. Is the builder experienced with the type or style of home you’re planning? Do they have experience building in the city or county you intend to build?
9. Do you provide assistance for selecting the home’s finishes?
Building a new home involves a lot of decisions, especially when it comes to selecting items like cabinets, counters, light/plumbing fixtures, paint colors, etc. For many people, it can be overwhelming. An experienced designer can walk you through the process. Make sure you’re not on your own, and the builder has someone to guide you through the selection process.
10. How do you ensure quality construction?
Unless you are a builder or know the construction trade, it’s tough to tell good from poor quality. Sure, you can see cosmetic things like flooring, cabinets, and other items in a home, but it’s hard to know what’s going on behind the walls. The important thing here is to get a sense of how a builder manages construction. Building a home is a complex effort. It’s one of the last few products not produced in an automated factory. Does the builder have detailed quality assurance checklists? Who is checking quality, and how often? What happens if you’re not satisfied with the quality?
11. How do you communicate and provide service during the design, build, and warranty?
Lack of communication is one of the most common complaints from homeowners about their builders. So how do you avoid it? This is another area where your conversations with past customers will reveal the real story. You’ll want to know if the builder responds to your requests promptly and how accessible he is. Does he communicate in a way that works for you? Given the prevalence of technology in our communications with email, texts, and internet access, find out how your builder utilizes technology to improve contact with you.
12. How do you ensure that I will not exceed my budget?
Yet another question that past customers will help you confirm, but here’s where you want to know how the builder does his purchasing. Does he obtain multiple quotes? When does he provide quotes to you? How are changes estimated? It’s critical to feel confident that your builder will work with you to keep you within your budget and communicate how changes impact the budget.
13. What’s the timeframe to build a home, and how do we make sure we don’t exceed it?
The experience of past customers will once again give you an indication of reality, but it’s essential to get an honest estimate of the timeframe before any agreement. This isn’t the time for your builder to be a hero, so be wary of a timeline that seems overly optimistic. Additionally, ask what tools the builder utilizes to track their schedule and progress. Like any complicated project, custom home has 30+ suppliers and sub-contractors that need to be coordinated. A builder of a custom home without a detailed written schedule is similar to the waiter that doesn’t write down your order – you can bet it won’t be right!
14. Can you provide me detail specifications and cost?
The devil is ALWAYS in the details, and this is undoubtedly true when building a new home. You must get clear, detail specifications and costs from your builder. If anything is unclear, get it clarified. If items important to you are not spelled out, make sure that they are. If you are trying to compare two proposals, you have to make sure the details match to be able to compare apples to apples.
15. What’s included and what’s NOT included?
This goes hand in hand with detail pricing. There are many items that go into the full cost of building a home. The land cost is clear, but there are some grey areas when it comes to home construction. Ask about surveying, construction plans, existing home demolition, insurance, permit fees, impact fees, tree trimming/removal, fencing, etc. These items need to be considered to determine the full cost.
16. How do you make sure that my home will be energy efficient?
It’s essential to understand what your initial costs are for your home, but once you are moved-in, the ongoing expenses begin. There isn’t much a builder can do regarding property insurance and property taxes, but they can assist with your utility bills. Make sure you understand what features will benefit your electric, gas, and water consumption. Key areas are insulation, windows, doors, HVAC systems, etc.
17. What makes you different from all the other builders?
It’s helpful to toss in one softball question to allow your builder to get on their soapbox. It will enable them to communicate some items that they feel are important and can give you a feel for their personality and style.
18. Is home building the builder’s only profession?
Homebuilding is a serious business. It takes commitment to keep up with everything that is going on in the industry. It requires solid business skills and a track record of satisfied clients. If a “builder” proposes to build your home part-time, you should proceed with caution. If this builder offers you a “better” financial deal, you need to wonder. The adage that you get what you pay for holds for home buying as well.
19. Can I trust you?
Not a question that you might ask a builder directly, but more of something that you need to observe and make a decision for yourself. The bottom line, you can’t underestimate how important it is to like, trust and respect your builder. Building a custom home is a long term relationship that continues beyond the home’s construction for at least the 1-year warranty period. Regardless of how excellent their reputation is in the area if there is any reason you are uncomfortable, why would you trust that builder with one of your most important investments?
If energy efficiency and clean air is your goal, the following video gives you ten more questions to ask a potential home builder:
Why You Should Spend More Time Thinking About Steel Frame Homes
Lightweight steel framing is a practical, code approved solution to a few of the challenges that builders face today when using wood in framing homes. Although the idea of steel creates a picture of heavy material, the steel used in residential construction is quite the opposite.
Lightweight steel is readily available in most major markets, and even if construction is to take place in rural or remote areas, transportation costs should not be a factor. There are a number of suppliers in major centers, which keep prices competitive.
8 Benefits of Steel Frame Homes
Steel is recyclable. Using old cars, appliances, bridges, steel cans, etc., produces about 500 million tons of steel per year. About three old cars produce enough steel to frame a basic 1500 square feet bungalow.
In addition to being environmentally friendly, steel framing results in a reduction of construction waste that would end up in a landfill
Steel is a non-combustible material.
Steel is dimensionally solid in any climate. Steel is manufactured straight and once the wall is properly constructed it won’t shrink, crack or warp resulting in fewer cracks and nail pops. This results in fewer callbacks.
Steel is insect resistant, and steel will not rot.
Steel wall sections of equal strength will be lighter than solid wood sections. This makes the assembled wall sections easier to handle.
Design Flexibility – Any residential plan can be constructed using lightweight steel framing. Steel framing members can be manufactured to any particular length.
Future alterations or renovations are straightforward and can be easily done.
Structural Considerations
The floor and roof assemblies can be fabricated from steel, or they can be wood. If the steel framing is used, wood sheathing is often combined with the structural steel members. The use of wood sheathing allows for the attachment of traditional materials, such as asphalt and wood shingles.
Material Considerations
The thermal expansion of steel studs is not an issue. As the studs are insulated on the exterior to reduce thermal bridging, and as the whole wall is made of similar materials, any movement should be uniform.
The installation of wood finishing and materials into a steel frame can be accomplished by placing wood blocking around openings. This adds to the time and cost of installation. Jambs and windows are now often screwed into their openings while trim work can be stapled using a power nailer.
Construction Sequencing
The scheduling of trades remains the same as wood-frame construction. Additional preplanning is required if a design professional is involved. A lightweight steel house is constructed using the same steps as in wood framing. Subsequent trades follow once the structure is in place.
Labour and Equipment Requirements
The labour cost for the first steel house erected by a builder is usually considerably higher than for a wood-framed house. This reflects the learning that is required by the trades involved.
Most builders find that succeeding houses see a considerable reduction in the labour component. In most cases, a framing crew erects the steel-framed house. Their hammers are replaced with a screw gun.
Other equipment needed includes aviation snips and a chop saw. Some builders use prefabricated steel-framed assemblies, which can reduce site framing time.
Impact on Services
Services include plumbing, heating and electrical. The requirements for the electrical may vary slightly from region to region, but readily available materials can be used.
Grommets are placed in the stud knock-outs where wires pass through. Electrical outlet boxes are fastened to the steel studs in typical fashion. Not too many builders use copper plumbing pipes anymore, but they must be isolated from the steel studs. Plastic piping (PEX) does not. Other implications for plumbing are minimal. There are minimal, if any, implications for the heating ducts
Construction Costs
While the price of lumber has fluctuated considerably over the last few years, the price of lightweight steel has remained relatively constant. This makes a direct cost comparison between wood framing and steel construction difficult.
It is generally accepted that the price of the two systems is quite comparable when all things including the cladding are considered. The cost of lightweight steel framing is influenced by the labour component, which will be quite high during the learning curve, for example, the first few houses.
Comparing steel framing to wood framing will vary widely because of the fluctuating cost of wood and by the variable labour costs. There are several factors to consider when comparing costs, with some of the variables being entirely subjective. Most independent articles on comparing the cost of steel framing to wood framing have priced them similarly when all aspects are considered.
Durability
Steel studs stand up well during on-site storage before installation. This wall system is quite durable and should be comparable to wood framing if properly constructed. Testing to date indicates that the metallic coating will offer long-term protection to the base steel in a properly designed and built wall assembly.
As for most wall systems, sheathing materials, in particular, exterior rigid insulation, will need to be protected as they can sustain mechanical damage and can be affected by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light.
Fire and Sound Considerations
The fire-resistance ratings for lightweight steel-framed walls, with the same finishes, is comparable to wood-framed walls if a mineral fiber is processed from rock or slag. Fire resistance ratings are most applicable for party walls that are used in multi-family construction.
There does not appear to be fire-resistance testing of residential exterior wall systems. Sound ratings for steel-framed walls are considerably better than for wood-framed walls.
Thermal Efficiency
One of the biggest disadvantages of steel is its term-conductivity. Steel is over 400 times more conductive of heat than wood. A steel-framed wall will have an overall R-value of only 46-70% of a similarly wood-framed wall with the same amount of cavity insulation. Increasing insulation from 31⁄2″ to 51⁄2″ in steel framing does not proportionally increase the R-value. To increase R-value, it is more effective to go from 16″ o.c. to 24″ o.c.; in other words, reduce the number of places available for thermal bridging.
Thermal bridging occurs when steel spans from the outside to the inside of the building envelope. It can cause high heating and cooling bills; the need for larger HVAC equipment; and moisture condensation on the warm side of the wall that can lead to mold. A thermal break of insulating sheathing should be used when framing with steel.
If the insulating sheathing is fastened directly to the studs with metal connectors, a thermal bridge will occur at the fasteners. Install plywood or OSB sheathing or wood strapping on the studs and fasten the insulation to the panels or strapping to prevent thermal bridging.
Steel framing goes hand in hand with insulated concrete form construction, where there is no chance of thermal bridging. But that is a subject for another article.
Yes, you do! There is always the risk of fire, theft, or home intrusion. Whether at home during the day, asleep at night, or away, you will feel safer knowing that you, your family, and your home are protected.
Home Security System
A security system is your personal electronic sentry, able to see and hear trouble. It’s a sentry that never sleeps, providing constant protection whether you’re home or away. When it detects a potential threat, the system instantly alerts you and summons help.
A security system is not as complicated as you might think. Working with your security professional your system can be completely customized, allowing you to decide how much protection is appropriate. You’ll be able to identify any areas that require special protection, select the appropriate sensors for your home, and program the system to match the needs of your family and daily schedule.
How your security system works.
THE BRAINS
The control panel is the “brains” of your security system, connected to all of the keypads, sensors, and other protection devices in your home. The panel is programmed to respond appropriately to different events.
For example, when a sensor detects a window or door being opened at night while your system is armed, the panel will sound the alarm to warn you as it signals your monitoring serv- ice to respond. If a door is opened during the day while the system is disarmed, the panel knows that it can ignore it. You have the ability to modify the panel program to adjust how it responds to each event.
An important element of your panel is its communication capabilities. Some panels are only able to communicate with your monitoring service using traditional dial-up (phone lines). Some panels give you the ability also to include network (Internet) and cellular links between your panel and monitoring service. Whether you’re concerned about wires being downed by bad weather or being intentionally cut, you have communication options that enable you to stay constantly connected and continuously protected.
EASY-TO-USE, INTUITIVE KEYPAD
The keypad is the primary way that you interact with your system, like the keyboard on your computer. The keypad usually will be located near your main entrance, but you can add others for convenience.
You use the keypad to turn your system on and off and make simple programming changes. The display on your keypad provides useful information about your system’s status. Keypads are attractive and include many features that make your system simple to use for everyone in your family.
SENSORS AND SWITCHES
A number of sensors will be installed around your home. Door and window switches are your first line of defence. They protect the “perimeter” of your home, alerting the panel whether they are open or closed. You can also include glass-break sensors that sense the sound of breaking glass.
Two-button panic keys provide instant alarm notification to the central monitoring station. Our two-button design prevents you from sending alarms accidentally.
The second line of defence are internal sensors that detect intruders inside your home. You can include sensors able to detect body heat and motion to alert you that some- one is inside your home, and where they are located. If you have pets, select a sensor designed to ignore their activities.
You will probably also want to install smoke detectors to provide total protection. You can even add a water sensor that can be used to detect a flooded basement or overflowing washing machine.
FOBS/PROXIMITY PATCHES
They don’t completely replace your keypad, but fobs and proximity patches offer a faster way to control certain system functions. Just like the fob used to lock or unlock a car, a security system fob attaches to your key ring and lets you arm your system as you walk out the door or disarm the system when you arrive home. The keypad gives you feedback to confirm that your system received the command.
The proximity patch is a small adhesive patch that you can stick to a cell phone, wallet, purse or another item. As you pass by your keypad, just wave the proximity patch near it to arm or disarm your system without even stopping. The keyboard will give you a visual confirmation that it sensed the proximity patch and took the desired action.
ALARMS AND SIREN
In most installations, you will want to include a siren, horn or other sounding devices. These devices will probably startle intruders and encourage them to leave your premises while also alerting your neighbors of a potential problem.
Your panel can also be connected to the interior or exterior lighting, illuminating your residence and depriving the intruder of the ability to hide in the dark.
Everyone likes making an entrance, and your front door is one of the first design elements that guests see when first arriving at your home. You want your door to be inviting and aesthetically pleasing to match your home’s exterior. The front door is also meant to protect you while you’re indoors, so it also needs to be functional, durable and weather resistant.
Buying Front Entry Doors
You wouldn’t think your door has an impact on the energy efficiency of your home, but it does. Entry doors must be solid enough to withstand the wind, rain, scorching sun, and would-be intruders, yet handsome enough to make a good first impression.
Steel Front Doors
Steel doors are probably the most common doors, for several reasons. The first, of course, is that they are the least expensive option.
More popular than wood doors, steel doors feature energy-efficient foam core insulation. These doors are fully weather-stripped, reducing chances of shrinking, swelling and warping. Because of their solid construction, steel doors will withstand years of extreme weather conditions with minimum maintenance.
However, steel doors are vulnerable to dents, and if the painted skin is breached by a scratch or severe dent, it can rust. And don’t combine a steel door with a storm door; heat build-up between the doors can cause the surface to peel. Because it can rust, it isn’t always the best choice for a home subject to harsh weather conditions. Also, steel conducts temperature, which is not ideal in an extremely hot or cold environment.
The doors can be purchased with predrilled doorknob and lockset holes, and most steel doors are packaged pre-primed and ready to paint. Steel doors offer extremely durable and affordable solutions for your exterior door needs.
Features:
Outstanding strength and weather resistance
Most cost effective materials for doors
Energy efficient – all steel doors come with foam insulation and weather-stripping to help block heat and cold and stand up to harsh weather
Stronger than wood and fiberglass doors
An excellent choice when security is a concern
Resists fire, warping and cracking
Can be finished with high-quality exterior paint
Available with coatings that mimic the look of real wood
Fiberglass Doors:
Fibreglass composite doors are relatively affordable and are most often chosen for their durability, and the fact they’re almost maintenance free. These doors can last a very long time, and many models offer warranties for as long as the buyer lives in the house.
Fibreglass doors are much more resistant to damage than steel and can be made to mimic genuine wood accurately, but without the drawbacks of wood. These doors can be painted or stained any way you choose.
Because fibreglass composite doors can go several years without needing any paint or stain touch-ups, they tend to work very well in harsh and humid climates. This material lasts longer than wood or steel, and its foam core offers much more insulation than wood.
Fibreglass doors share many of the benefits that wood and steel doors offer with a special sense of durability.
Energy efficient and practical for high-traffic entrances, fiberglass doors have wood grain texture molded into the door so that they give the appearance of a real wood door when painted or stained.
Fiberglas undergoes little change because of weather. Available in many styles and sizes, fiberglass doors are perfect for homeowners concerned with longevity, practicality and home security.
Features
Durable and easy to maintain – resists dents, cracks, rot, rust and warping
Energy efficient – all fiberglass doors come with foam insulation and weather-stripping to help block heat and cold
Available in a variety of finishes, including faux wood
Can be stained or painted to match your home’s exterior
Wood Doors:
Genuine wood is the traditionalist’s choice and available in just about any commercially logged wood, from premium species like mahogany, teak and walnut to economical paint-grade species such as hemlock or pine.
a beautiful front door
Wood is one of the more common choices for a front door. Despite the faux substitutes, nothing can beat the real deal for many homeowners. Modern wood door models are often sandwiches of wood veneer skins over a wood core.
This construction tends to minimize the chance of warping and also lowers cost. For this type of wood door, look for furniture-grade veneers that are at least 1/16 inch thick.
Anything thinner may be too easily damaged. While wood doors are luxurious and beautiful, they also offer a fair amount of upkeep. Wood is sensitive to moisture, and wetness in the wood can cause the door to warp, crack and change shape.
Sun is also an important factor in the life of your wood door. If your door is protected from these elements, it’s bound to last much longer. When shopping for pre-finished wood doors, look for durable stains and high-gloss finishes, since these will best protect the wood.
If you’ve decided to apply the finish or stain on your own, make sure to put the finish on the top and bottom edges of the door as well to help prevent it from absorbing moisture.
The substantial weight of a wooden door adds a sense of security and sturdiness to your home.
Wood doors are most at home with traditional American styles, including Colonial, Cottage & Craftsman, Ranch, Split Level and Victorian.
Features:
Naturally warm and elegant
Classic choice for historic or traditional homes
Best used in entryways that are sheltered from the elements
Available in premium-grade hardwoods and pine, with a broad choice of stains
Durable finishes help maintain and preserve beauty
Must be finished or painted on all six sides: front, back, top, bottom and sides
1. Medium brown hardwood has a long aesthetic life.
2. Highly detailed oak and exotic woods can steal the room’s focus.
3. Red — cherry wood, red oak and chestnuts — can be difficult to work with.
4. Engineered hardwood better withstands moisture than hardwood.
5. Tiles work best in industrial design. bathrooms and hot climates.
6. The extra effort and expense of heated tile repays with joy to your feet.
The 4-year-old son of a friend watched over my shoulder recently as I worked on plans and flooring for The National Home Show’s dream home. Our firm created the interior design for the home at next month’s show — I hope you get a chance to see it.
I asked my young friend if he preferred the dark wood floor or tile. He immediately picked the hardwood. Apparently, tile hurts more when he falls. Not exactly a design consideration, but very practical.
Making the choice combines both aesthetic and practical qualities.
In our climate I often steer clients toward a medium-coloured hardwood that has some graining. Walnut is beautiful for both its colour and for its grain quality, and is naturally a medium-brown colour, with no strong red details.
Remember the floor is a backdrop to the room. As colour trends come and go, you will always be able to work harmoniously with walnut.
Oak was a popular choice based because of its hardness and its availability in North America. While oak is harder than walnut, it tends to have a yellow-orange colour. With a stain applied to darken the wood, the grain becomes more apparent and goes almost black. If oak flooring exists in the space, I advise keeping it and staining it. But if starting from scratch with a new build or custom home, then I recommend walnut flooring.
If hardness is really the issue because of big dogs or a love of stiletto shoes, then bamboo is a better choice and is 150 times harder than oak.
Exotic hardwoods have been popular and can be really beautiful.
Yet they can be risky since they’re indigenous to a humid place and when it’s -25C outside, maintaining a high humidity in your home is difficult. In winter months you tend to see larger spaces between the boards that will tighten again with increased humidity in the summer.
Exotic woods also have strong characteristics that can steal the room’s focus and can be difficult to work with for design updates or change. Brazilian cherry, for example, starts with a red tone and over time becomes a maroon colour with sunlight and age. If the base element of the room is maroon, your colour options are limited when selecting new furniture and accessories.
Home shows can be a great place to see product up close, and there you can see how the floor works with your siding choice, window trims and even furniture. If you already have furniture you’re working with, bring a swatch of fabric or a cushion with you for a colour match.
This weekend you can take advantage of the experts at the GTA home show at the International Centre — including me. Flooring questions are popular and I’ve been asked several times about the best places to use hardwood, and also the difference between engineered and three-quarter-inch hardwood.
Let’s solve this now. People regularly ask if it is OK to have hardwood in the kitchen and, yes, it is perfectly OK. The surface of the board, with a factory finish, is very durable, even around liquids. The sides of the boards are not finished, so avoid having water sit on hardwood since it will make it swell. The continuous sightline of hardwood reaching into the kitchen is so visually appealing that I’m happy to advise it.
Yet there are exceptions. If you have a dog then keeping the floor dry around the water bowl will be difficult. Practically, you may want to select a porcelain tile in the kitchen, or have food and water in a tiled area. Hardwood will never love you like your dog does.
Next, people want to know if engineered flooring is a second-rate hardwood — buyers are concerned they aren’t getting good value for what they pay in the combination of hardwood over the plywood base. Once the floor is laid, however, the effect is the same as three-quarter-inch flooring.
Engineered flooring’s base keeps the floor very stable and far less susceptible to changes in moisture. Engineered product, I believe, is superior to the “full wood” version. As well, since it’s thinner than three-quarter-inch hardwood, it matches more easily with existing floor heights.
If you are in a condo, engineered really is the best choice. It can be glued to the concrete or it can be floated over the concrete slab. I advise extending the wood straight to the front door of your unit. Often there is a landing pad of tile at the front door intended for wet boots. But, generally, you will first walk through the lobby, to the elevators, and along the hall before you get to your own unit. So the continuity of wood flooring also becomes a practical consideration in a condo.
Tile, on the other hand, works well in an industrial loft. Porcelain tiles can mimic concrete or stone, or provide a textural element to the floor or walls. Large format tiles give you the look of polished concrete without actually having the concrete’s weight. It is perfect, also, in warm climates.
Tile is used most in homes in the main bathrooms where showers and bath tubs can create standing water.
It’s especially great in our climate in heated bathroom and kitchen floors. It may seem like just another expense but I assure you, you will enjoy that heat every morning and every night of the entire winter. I often use Nuheat to make the pad, mainly because you can customize the heating mat to the shape of your room. Areas to consider heating include inside your shower. Heating the floor under the vanity or the tub isn’t necessary and the custom mat can avoid those areas.
There are many other options beyond tile and wood, including carpet, vinyl, linoleum and leather. Even after you choose — hardwood, for instance — there are many options to choose from.
If you need some assistance with your choices, then make your way to both the GTA Home Show this weekend and the National Home Show next month. I’d be happy to help you at either show — or both!
Glen Peloso appears every two weeks in New in Homes & Condos. He is principal designer of Peloso Alexander Interiors, national design editor of Canadian Home Trends magazine and a contributor to On the Go magazine. You can catch Glen on the Marilyn Denis Show, 10 a.m. Mon-Fri on CTV. Contact him at pelosoalexander.com, follow him on Twitter at @peloso1 or @glenandjamie, and on Facebook.
Formaldehyde is a colourless gas. At elevated concentrations, it has a strong, pungent odour and can be irritating to the eyes, nose, and lungs. Formaldehyde is released into the home from a variety of indoor sources. Some resins, or glues, used to bind wood chips or fibres into plywood, particleboard, and other pressed wood products, contain formaldehyde.
Cabinetry and some floor and wall materials are often made from such products. Formaldehyde is also used in fabrics to impart wrinkle resistance or to fix colour, and in some consumer products it is used as a hardening agent or preservative.
Also, formaldehyde is a by-product of combustion processes, such as wood burning, gas appliance use, and cigarette smoking. Formaldehyde is usually present at lower (but not necessarily healthy) levels in outdoor air; it is emitted in car exhaust and from some industrial sources, and is also created from chemical reactions in the atmosphere among combustion pollutants, such as those in automobile exhaust.
Do I have formaldehyde in my home?
Formaldehyde is a very common indoor air pollutant. Because there are many sources, formaldehyde is found in virtually all homes and buildings. Mobile homes, manufactured homes, new homes, and recently remodelled homes are more likely to contain high levels of formaldehyde. Higher formaldehyde in these homes may be caused by the presence of a large quantity of pressed wood products, such as particleboard and plywood. Older homes typically have less formaldehyde in the air because pressed wood products emit less formaldehyde over time.
Concentrations of formaldehyde are usually several times greater indoors than outdoors because a large amount of formaldehyde-emitting material is contained within a confined space. During the 1980s, formaldehyde concentrations averaged about 50 parts per billion (ppb1) in conventional homes, and 70 ppb in mobile homes, about 13 to 18 times higher than average outdoor concentrations at that time.
Since then, manufacturers have voluntarily reduced formaldehyde emissions from pressed wood products, and some typical product formulations have changed. Limited measurements show that concentrations indoors are lower than in the past. The average outdoor formaldehyde level today is approximately 3 ppb. The majority of exposure to formaldehyde results from indoor sources, due to elevated indoor concentrations and the fact that people spend most of their time indoors.
How can formaldehyde affect my health?
Inhaling formaldehyde in the air can cause both short-term irritant effects and long-term health effects, such as cancer. The potential effect formaldehyde can have on your health depends on the amount you are exposed to, the length of time you are exposed, and your individual sensitivity. Certain people may react differently to the same formaldehyde exposure. People with eye, skin, respiratory, or allergic conditions and those with asthma are potentially more susceptible to the irritant effects of formaldehyde. Children and the elderly may be more sensitive as well.
Odor
The level at which people can first detect formaldehyde by odor varies widely among individuals, from 50 to 500 ppb. Some health effects, such as eye or nose irritation, can occur at formaldehyde concentrations that some people cannot smell.
Exposure to moderate levels of formaldehyde can cause some irritant symptoms, including temporary burning or itching of the eyes or nose, stuffy nose, and sore throat. At higher concentrations, formaldehyde exposure can also cause irritation of the lung’s passageways. At very high formaldehyde levels, chest tightness, coughing, and wheezing can occur. Some people have reported headache, nausea, and fatigue after exposure to formaldehyde.
Formaldehyde is a potent sensitizer, meaning that exposure to formaldehyde can induce an allergic reaction. Skin rashes are the most common form of formaldehyde allergy, especially when the skin is exposed to liquid formaldehyde. Allergic skin reactions can also result from exposure to formaldehyde present in dry products, such as new permanent press clothing.
Airborne formaldehyde may cause allergic reactions in occupationally exposed persons, and also may result in a worsening of asthma symptoms in people with asthma.
Allergens, other volatile chemicals, and a variety of medical conditions can cause some of the same symptoms as formaldehyde does. As with any medical condition, persons with symptoms should have a thorough medical exam to identify the cause.
The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) recently concluded, based on human exposures in the workplace, that formaldehyde can cause nasopharyngeal cancer (cancer of the nose and throat). IARC also found limited evidence that formaldehyde may cause other respiratory tract cancers and a possible link with leukemia. Previously, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency had classified formaldehyde as a “probable” human carcinogen, based on studies of laboratory animals repeatedly exposed to high levels of formaldehyde.
What can I do to reduce formaldehyde in my home?
There are practical steps you can take to reduce your exposure to formaldehyde in your home. Levels can be reduced whether you are building a new home, remodelling an older home, or seeking to reduce exposure from sources you may have in your home. The most efficient way to reduce formaldehyde in indoor air is to remove or reduce sources of formaldehyde in the home and avoid adding new sources. Formaldehyde from sources such as pressed wood products can take years to off-gas. Additionally, porous materials and furnishings can absorb formaldehyde and re-emit it later. Thus, avoidance of sources and prevention of emissions from the start is best.
Make Smart Choices When Building a Home or Remodelling
Whether you are doing the work yourself or working with a contractor, there are some practical steps you can take to reduce your exposure to formaldehyde.
Avoid the use of bare, uncoated urea-formaldehyde (UF) pressed wood products. UF products, such as particleboard, are often used to cover large areas, and, therefore, can emit relatively high amounts of formaldehyde.
Use formaldehyde-free building materials. It is often possible to substitute other materials for pressed-wood products. Examples of formaldehyde-free materials include lumber, gypsum board, some hardboard products, stainless steel and other metals, adobe, bricks, tile, and plastic. Use insulation materials that emit little or no formaldehyde, too; request emission test results to document low emissions. Formaldehyde emitted from insulation materials installed in the ceiling or walls can enter living spaces in the home.
Use low-emitting building materials. If you still prefer or need a pressed wood product, there are products available that emit very low amounts of formaldehyde. Pressed wood products glued together with phenol-formaldehyde (PF) resin or methylene diisocyanate (MDI) resin emit much less formaldehyde than UF products when new. These products also emit less formaldehyde over time because they are more resistant to water vapor. PF and MDI products are often labeled as “exterior grade” or “moisture resistant” by the construction industry.
Avoid products with urea-formaldehyde-based coatings. Cabinets, solid and laminate wood floors and furniture are sometimes sealed with a layer that emits very high amounts of formaldehyde when new. This finish is known as an acid-catalyzed urea-formaldehyde coating. Typically this product is either factory-applied or applied by a commercial floor contractor in a two-part process; it generally is not available to consumers. You should contact the product’s distributor or manufacturer to ask if the product or floor finish considered for use in your home is of this product type, and avoid being in the home when the product is applied.
Make smart choices when using urea-formaldehyde pressed wood products
Currently, available, domestically produced UF pressed wood products emit less formaldehyde than similar products manufactured before and during the 1980s. Installing large amounts of certain pressed wood products can elevate formaldehyde levels indoors for a significant duration of time. In general, it is best to avoid using UF pressed wood products in your home. However, there can be times when the use of such products is unavoidable.
Here are some steps you can take to reduce formaldehyde emissions when you need to use UF particleboard or hardwood plywood:
Buy particleboard or hardwood plywood stamped with the Composite Panel Association (CPA) or Hardwood Plywood and Veneer Association (HPVA) stamp. Particleboard and hardwood plywood bearing these stamps are certified to meet certain formaldehyde emission standards, and may be lower in formaldehyde emissions than products that are not certified.
Products made with PF or MDI resins emit significantly less formaldehyde and are not required to be stamped. Various other low-emitting products are also available but are not stamped. Ask the manufacturer or salesperson to assist you in distinguishing among the different kinds of pressed wood products.
Buy UF products that are sealed with certain factory finishes. Some factory finishes are useful for reducing formaldehyde emissions (see box below). UF products are often coated with these finishes on only one side: consumers may wish to apply appropriate sealants to the edges and backs of these products. Also, the customer can specify that all surfaces be sealed when buying customized products. Avoid urea-formaldehyde acid-catalyzed coatings.
SOME FACTORY FINISHES THAT CAN REDUCE FORMALDEHYDE EMISSIONS
Seal bare UF pressed wood products with multiple layers of water resistant sealants. If alternative products are not available, sealing exposed surfaces of UF-containing products will reduce formaldehyde emissions for months to years after application. Research indicates that polyurethane, vinyl laminate, dinitro cellulose and other lacquers, and alkyd paint and other water-resistant coatings can reduce formaldehyde emissions. The effectiveness of these sealants varies widely depending on the formulation of the individual product, the thickness of the layer and the thoroughness of its application.
Some manufacturers provide sealants that are specially designed to reduce formaldehyde emissions; these are sold under various trade labels. To seal in formaldehyde fumes, it is advisable to seal all surfaces, including the back and edges of the board and use multiple layers of coatings. Caution: Sealants may release other VOCs for a time when newly applied.
Choose coatings or barrier materials that are water resistant, bond well to the wood products, and can withstand the natural swelling and shrinkage of timber over time. Coatings will remain active only as long as the integrity of the coating layer remains intact. Any sanding, drilling, or cutting of sealed pressed wood products will also result in increased emissions of formaldehyde.
Use Plenty of Ventilation During and After Applying Liquid Sealants. Liquid coatings, including paints, lacquers, stains, and other sealants, release volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) when freshly applied. It is important to use plenty of ventilation during application and for several days after application. Consider wearing a respirator during application.
Make smart choices when decorating and furnishing your home
A number of consumer products used in home decorating emit formaldehyde, especially when new. These products include some paints and other liquid coatings, wallpaper, furniture made from pressed wood products, and permanent press draperies and other textile products. Here are some simple steps you can use to reduce your formaldehyde exposure from these products.
Ventilate well during and after applying paint and other liquid coatings. Increasing ventilation rates, such as by using an exhaust fan, is recommended during paint application, and for at least several days afterwards, to protect both painters and occupants. Sensitive persons should avoid areas where coatings are being applied.
Formaldehyde and other aldehydes are used in small quantities as a preservative in many paint products. Because of the relatively large amount of surface area usually painted, formaldehyde concentrations can be elevated for a time, particularly when the paint is still wet. People sensitive to formaldehyde may wish to avoid areas that are being painted. Even paint products marketed as “low-emission” or “low VOCs” may still contain small amounts of formaldehyde.
Ventilate well during and after wallpaper application. Research shows that formaldehyde is released in significant quantities during wallpaper application and curing.
Buy used or antique furniture. Most formaldehyde in used and antique furniture will have been released over the years of prior ownership. Beware of furniture that has been repaired or refurbished using UF pressed wood.
When buying furniture made from UF pressed wood products, look for furniture with the maximum amount of surface covered by veneer, vinyl, or other water-resistant coating. Although veneer itself is attached with UF glue, tests show that it suppresses formaldehyde emissions from particleboard surfaces. Note that some furniture finishes contain UF resin, and emit formaldehyde, especially when new. Unfortunately, it is sometimes difficult to identify such furniture pieces, so it is best to try to obtain emission or content information from the manufacturer before making a purchase.
Air out new furniture made from pressed wood products, preferably away from the home in a well-ventilated warehouse or other building, before placing it in your home. The area must have fresh air passing through the building or formaldehyde will not be removed. This process will not remove all of the formaldehyde, but it can accelerate the off-gassing of formaldehyde and other noxious or odorous gases.
Air out permanent press draperies and other textiles away from the home. Ask the distributor to do this before installing them in your home. The airing process should involve fully opening the material and allowing fresh air to circulate across its surface for several days. Caution: When airing out furniture or draperies, avoid using buildings that are used for storing paints, solvents, pesticides, and other chemicals. Fumes from these chemicals can be absorbed by fabrics and other porous materials.
Make smart choices when using consumer products
Formaldehyde is used as an ingredient in a variety of consumer products. Products emitting high levels of formaldehyde include permanent press fabrics, fingernail hardeners, and fingernail polish. Other consumer products such as household cleaning agents, dishwashing liquids, fabric softeners, shoe-care agents, carpet cleaning agents, adhesives, shampoos, antiperspirants, and other personal care products may also contain formaldehyde.
Wash permanent press clothing, sheets, and other fabrics before using. Laundering can reduce formaldehyde emissions from these fabrics by about 60 percent. This also will help minimize skin irritation from formaldehyde.
Ventilate thoroughly when using fingernail hardeners, nail polish, and other consumer products that may contain formaldehyde. Some fingernail hardeners and nail polish emit especially high amounts of formaldehyde during application and drying. Formaldehyde exposure can be significant to the person applying either of these products.
Make smart choices when using combustion sources
Smoking tobacco products and burning gas, liquid, or solid fuel in heaters, ranges and ovens, wood stoves, and other combustion appliances can increase formaldehyde concentrations indoors, in addition to releasing a number of other, harmful pollutants. Some steps you can take to reduce formaldehyde exposure from these sources in the home include:
Restrict tobacco smoking to the outdoors. Tobacco smoking produces formaldehyde and other toxic chemicals.
Exhaust all combustion appliances directly to the outdoors. This includes gas heaters, ranges and ovens, and propane and wood burning appliances.
Have combustion appliances and fireplaces checked annually by a professional. Malfunctioning wood stoves, gas appliances, and other combustion appliances produce more formaldehyde and other combustion pollutants (such as carbon monoxide) than appliances that are properly maintained.
More Steps for Reducing Exposure to Formaldehyde
Increase ventilation in your home. You can reduce your exposure to formaldehyde and other indoor pollutants by bringing more outdoor air into your home. Open windows and doors whenever possible. Extra ventilation during warm weather will remove greater amounts of formaldehyde than ventilation when temperatures are cool. Consider installing a whole house fan or a fresh-air ventilation system in your home. This can be helpful for newer homes that are tightly insulated.
Keep indoor temperatures moderate. Formaldehyde concentrations in buildings are especially sensitive to increases in temperature. A temperature increase of 40 degrees Fahrenheit (such as an increase from 50 to 90 degrees F) can result in a doubling of formaldehyde concentrations. You can use the air conditioner to keep summer temperatures relatively low.
However, use swamp cooler type air conditioners cautiously during periods of high ozone. They tend to bring ozone directly indoors, where it reacts and can cause increased levels of fine aerosols and formaldehyde.
Lower your home’s humidity. High humidity, especially during warm periods, increases the rate at which formaldehyde is released from pressed wood and other products. Humidity should be maintained at about 40% to 50% relative humidity in the home.
Recommended Exposure Limits for Formaldehyde
Because formaldehyde can contribute to the risk of getting cancer, and, like other carcinogens, has no level that is known to be risk-free, the ARB recommends that you reduce indoor formaldehyde concentrations as much as possible. This also will decrease the likelihood of irritant effects that can develop from long-term exposures to low levels of formaldehyde. Current outdoor levels average about 3 ppb in California and can range to about 10-12 ppb in some locales. It is desirable to reduce indoor levels to as near to outdoor levels as possible; however, it is not feasible to reduce indoor levels below nearby outdoor levels.
For short-term exposure, the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment (OEHHA) has calculated an Acute Reference Exposure Level (acute REL) of 76 ppb for a one-hour exposure. This acute REL is the concentration at which scientists are reasonably confident that no adverse effects would be experienced by sensitive individuals exposed for one hour. Individuals can be exposed to this level without immediate health effects, such as eye or throat irritation. For an eight-hour exposure time, no short-term adverse effects would be expected to occur if average levels do not exceed 27 ppb (OEHHA’s interim 8-hour REL).
However, people often spend more than eight hours a day in their homes; infants, young children and the infirm sometimes spend virtually the entire day inside their home. Thus, it is highly desirable that residential levels remain well below 27 ppb to avoid acute effects in such individuals. To prevent irritant effects, air concentrations in new homes, including manufactured homes, also should not exceed 27 ppb. Because materials off-gas formaldehyde over time, levels in new homes should decrease well below this level over time, unless new sources are brought into the home.
Can I measure the formaldehyde inside my home?
It is not necessary to measure the formaldehyde in your home; taking the actions recommended in this guideline will usually lower your levels to acceptable levels. However, if you have large or numerous formaldehyde sources in your home, you may want to measure the formaldehyde level inside your home.
Home test kits are available that can provide a measure of the average indoor level during the test period, usually five to ten days. These kits cost about $90.
Formaldehyde levels typically fluctuate over time: they increase with higher temperatures and humidity. Simple factors such as the location of the sampler (upstairs or downstairs) or a number of times doors and windows are opened during the day can also significantly affect test results. You may want to test in both summer and winter.
A few final words
Remember that the most important action you can take to prevent excessive formaldehyde exposure is to reduce the formaldehyde sources in your home.
Building materials and certain coatings are often the primary sources in homes. If you have large amounts of pressed wood products and other formaldehyde sources already in your home that cannot easily be removed, the best way to reduce your exposure to formaldehyde is to ventilate your home with outdoor air, maintain moderate temperatures, prevent excessive humidity and do not bring additional sources into your home.
What 10,000 Pinterest Boards Have Taught Me About Human Delusion
After 45 years of building custom homes, I’ve developed what my wife calls a “special kind of patience” and what my therapist calls “occupational PTSD.” I’ve built everything from modest starter homes to mansions that have their own Postal codes, and if there’s one constant in this business, it’s this: what clients think they want versus what they actually need are continents apart on the map of reality.
Let me take you behind the sawdust curtain of custom home building, where dreams meet my weathered tape measure and pragmatic calculator.
The Initial Consultation: A Theater of Optimism
Every project begins the same way. A bright-eyed couple sits across from me at my desk, armed with a three-inch binder of magazine clippings, 347 screenshots from Houzz, and the unshakable conviction that their dream home can be built for roughly what their cousin paid for a kitchen remodel in 1997.
“We want something simple,” they always begin, before unfurling plans for a house with more angles than a geometry textbook and enough glass to deplete the world’s sand reserves.
My poker face has been perfected over decades. I’ve maintained it through requests for:
Underground tunnels connecting the main house to the pool house (“for convenience in winter”)
A moat (yes, an actual moat, complete with drawbridge – Full disclosure: This was my idea once upon a time)
A spiral staircase for the family Saint Bernard who “doesn’t do regular stairs”
A kitchen with seven different cooking stations because “we might get into sous vide next year”
I’ve learned to nod thoughtfully while mentally calculating how many additional zeros I’ll need to add to their budget estimate.
The Budget Conversation: A Dance of Delicate Destruction
In my early years, I was blunt about costs. This resulted in a lot of pale faces and canceled projects. Now I’ve developed what I call the “Dream-to-Reality Transition Protocol”:
Listen attentively to their complete wish list
Compliment their vision and excellent taste
Gently introduce the concept of “cost per square foot” as if I’ve just invented the term
Watch the slow-motion realization spread across their faces
Hand them a tissue and the modified plan that they can actually afford
I once had clients who showed me a photo of a 15,000-square-foot Tuscan villa and said, “This, but we’re thinking around $350,000 all in.” I didn’t laugh. At that time you could buy a vila in Tuscany for that much money. That’s rule number one in this business: never laugh at the budget, no matter how delusional. Instead, I asked them which quarter of the villa they’d like to build first.
Common Client Archetypes I’ve Known and (Mostly) Loved
The HGTV Disciples
These folks believe entire homes can be renovated in 43 minutes with commercial breaks. They use phrases like “open concept” and “subway tile” with religious reverence.
“Chip and Joanna did a complete gut renovation for $25,000,” they’ll tell me, conveniently forgetting about the network’s budget and the magic of television editing.
My standard response: “Yes, and if you can get HGTV to pay for your construction costs and provide free labor, I’ll personally install shiplap on every vertical surface for free.”
The “I Could Do It Myself But I’m Too Busy” Experts
These clients have watched enough YouTube videos to be dangerous. They begin sentences with “I would just…” followed by construction suggestions that would violate approximately seven building codes and possibly the laws of physics.
One memorable gentleman insisted we could save money by “skipping the foundation” because his research indicated that the ground was “pretty solid already.” I had to explain that the building inspector might have some thoughts about that approach, as would gravity.
The Indecisive Perfectionists
These clients change their minds so frequently that my construction team has developed a betting pool for daily plan modifications.
My record-holder is Mrs. Henderson, who changed her kitchen cabinet hardware 14 times during installation. The final choice? The exact pulls I originally recommended. My carpenter threatened to retire on the spot until I reminded him that Mrs. Henderson’s indecision had put his daughter through college.
The “My Friend Is an Architect” Menaces
These clients have a friend who once drew a floor plan on a napkin and now considers themselves Frank Lloyd Wright’s spiritual successor.
“Brad thinks we could just move this load-bearing wall to open up the space,” they’ll say casually, as if suggesting we rearrange furniture instead of the structural elements preventing their roof from becoming their floor.
The Plans vs. Reality: An Exercise in Creative Interpretation
The Kitchen of Their Dreams
What they show me: A 600-square-foot culinary wonderland with double islands, a walk-in refrigerator, commercial-grade appliances, and storage space that would make Container Store executives weep with joy.
What they actually cook: Microwave popcorn and DoorDash.
The compromise: A reasonably sized kitchen with one island that doesn’t require GPS to navigate, quality appliances that won’t require a dedicated electrical substation, and enough counter space to accommodate their primary culinary activity: opening takeout containers.
The Primary Bathroom Situation
What they want: A spa retreat larger than their first apartment, featuring a shower with 16 body jets, a soaking tub positioned perfectly to view both the fireplace and the mountain vistas, heated floors, and a sauna.
What they need: A functional bathroom where they can quickly shower while yelling at their kids to hurry up for school.
The reality check: “Your water heater would need to be the size of a small submarine to supply those shower jets, and unless you plan to spend three hours in the bathroom each morning, maybe we can scale back to something that won’t require its own ZIP code?”
The Home Office Paradox
The request: “I need a custom-built home office with built-in shelving, soundproofing, and a view of the backyard for inspiration.”
The usage pattern: Will be used primarily to stack Amazon boxes and as the designated room for the exercise bike that doubles as a clothing rack.
My tactful suggestion: “Perhaps a flexible space that could serve multiple purposes would be more practical than dedicating 200 square feet to occasional Zoom calls taken from your laptop at the kitchen table anyway?”
The Construction Phase: Where Time Becomes Theoretical
In my experience, clients understand construction timelines about as well as they understand quantum physics. Here’s my reliable formula:
Take the reasonable timeline
Add three months for supply chain issues
Add two months for weather delays
Add another month for the inevitable change orders
Double the result
Still deliver later than expected
I once had a client call me in a panic because we were “behind schedule” on day two of construction when the excavator hit a massive boulder that wasn’t detected in the soil test. I gently explained that unless they had a dynamite permit and a cavalier attitude toward neighborhood relations, we might need to adjust our timeline.
The Special Features That Make Me Drink
Wine Cellars for People Who Buy Boxed Wine
The number of elaborate wine cellars I’ve built for clients whose wine knowledge extends to “red” and “white” is staggering. These climate-controlled showpieces typically end up storing holiday decorations alongside three bottles of wine they got as housewarming gifts.
My favorite was the client who insisted on a 500-bottle capacity cellar with custom redwood racks, only to fill it with Costco’s Kirkland Signature wine and use the remaining space for their extensive Beanie Baby collection.
Home Theaters That Become Very Expensive Nap Rooms
“We entertain all the time,” they insist as they request stadium seating for 20, professional-grade sound systems, and acoustic wall treatments for their home theater.
Three years later, I’ll visit to fix a warranty issue and find the theater has become an elaborate sleeping location for their cats and a place to store seasonal decorations.
The Smart Home That Outsmarted Everyone
Smart homes are the new frontier of construction comedy. I’ve installed systems so complex that they require more computing power than the first moon landing, only to get emergency calls because the clients can’t figure out how to turn on their living room lights.
My personal favorite was the $100,000 smart home system that got outsmarted by the client’s six-year-old, who reprogrammed it to play “Baby Shark” throughout all 23 speakers whenever anyone used the master bathroom. It took us three days to override that particular piece of programming.
What Your Builder Is Really Thinking
When you say: “I’m pretty handy, so I’ll finish some of this myself to save money.”
I think: “I’ll be back in six months to fix everything at twice the original price.”
When you say: “My brother-in-law can get these materials at a discount.”
I think: “Your brother-in-law is the reason I have a therapist.”
When you say: “This shouldn’t take long, right?”
I think: “In geological time, no, this project is practically instantaneous.”
When you say: “We don’t need to move that wall much, just a couple of feet.”
I think: “That ‘wall’ is holding up your second floor, but sure, let’s get creative with structural engineering.”
The True Success Stories (Yes, They Exist)
Despite my good-natured complaints, there’s nothing more satisfying than handing over keys to clients who’ve been reasonable, flexible, and appreciative throughout the process.
The Realistic Romantics
The Johnsons came to me with modest plans and a practical budget. When we encountered unexpected ledge during excavation, adding $30,000 to the foundation work, they calmly eliminated their finished basement plans without a single tear or accusation that I was trying to bankrupt them. I was so moved by their reasonableness that I upgraded their kitchen countertops at cost.
The Prepared Planners
The Garcias arrived at our first meeting with a binder that included not just inspiration photos but detailed notes about how they actually lived: where they needed storage, which family members needed accessibility features, and even a log of how they used their current home’s spaces throughout the day. Their honesty about their habits meant we designed for their actual lives, not their aspirational selves. Their home came in on budget and has required minimal changes since completion.
The Grateful Delegators
The Patels hired me, then did something revolutionary: they trusted my expertise. When faced with decisions, they asked questions, considered the options, made quick decisions, and moved on with their lives instead of agonizing over the 27 slightly different shades of white paint for their trim. Construction was completed two weeks ahead of schedule, and I still send them a Christmas card 15 years later.
What I Wish Every Client Knew Before They Started
After 45 years and over 200 custom homes, here’s what I wish I could tell every starry-eyed potential client:
The HGTV Disclaimer
Television is to home building what romantic comedies are to actual relationships. No, we cannot remodel your entire house in a weekend. No, we did not “forget” to factor labor costs into your budget. And no, the charming discovery of vintage wallpaper behind your medicine cabinet will not be treated as a delightful surprise – it’s a remediation expense.
The Budget Reality
Whatever number you have in mind, add 20%. Then add another 10% for contingencies. Then accept that you’ll still go over budget because you’ll fall in love with something you didn’t know existed when we started. I’ve never once – in 45 years – had a client come in under budget unless we significantly scaled back the original plans.
The Timeline Truth
Construction is like baking a soufflé during an earthquake. We can estimate how long it should take, but we’re at the mercy of weather, supply chains, subcontractor availability, and the whims of municipal inspectors who seemingly decide approvals based on their horoscope that day.
The Change Order Confession
Every time you say, “While we’re at it, could we just…” it costs money and adds time. There’s no such thing as a minor change once framing is complete. Moving an outlet six inches might require rewiring half your house depending on where we are in the process.
The Secret to Happiness in Home Building
Want to know who ends up truly happy with their custom home? It’s not the clients with the biggest budgets or the grandest plans. It’s the ones who understand this fundamental truth:
You’re not building a showcase. You’re building a home.
The happiest homeowners I’ve worked with focus on how they’ll live in the space rather than how it will photograph. They prioritize function over flash, comfort over cavernous spaces, and quality construction over trendy features that will look dated before the paint is dry.
Final Thoughts from the Trenches
After 45 years of turning lumber, concrete, and dreams into homes, I’ve learned that the most important tool in custom home building isn’t found in my truck. It’s perspective.
Your dream home won’t be perfect, but if designed well, it will be perfect for you. It won’t look exactly like your Pinterest board, but it will be the place where your actual life happens – messy, imperfect, and wonderfully real.
And when you’re sitting on your porch (which is probably smaller than you originally wanted but still perfectly sized for your needs), watching the sunset over a yard that took three tries to get the landscaping right, you won’t be thinking about that imported Italian marble you compromised on. You’ll be thinking, “This is home.”
And that, after all these years, is still why I do what I do – despite the unrealistic budgets, the Pinterest-fueled fantasies, and the clients who think load-bearing walls are merely suggestions. Because at the end of the day, I’m not just building houses. I’m building the settings for the next chapters of your lives.
Just please, for the love of all that is holy, stop asking me to put bathroom windows directly opposite the shower. Some things should remain private, even in your dream home.
Buying an LED light is very different than buying an incandescent light bulb.
An incandescent light bulb is a simple device with a tungsten filament. It consistently produces the same type of light with the same characteristics. However, LED lights are far more complicated. Their color comes from a phosphorus coating, which if applied inconsistently during manufacturing, will create different shades of color in the final product.
Also, if the LED is not built well it will not achieve the efficiency expected from and LED light (i.e. it will use more power and produce less light). Furthermore, if the LED fixture does not effectively pull the heat away from the LED, the life of the LED will be dramatically shortened. Below is a list of 5 things to look for before buying an LED light to insure a beautiful and consistent color, long life, and maximum efficiency.
Beautiful Color #1: What is the CRI (Colour Rendering Index) of the LED light?
Color Rendering Index is the ability of a light source to reproduce the colors of the object it is illuminating faithfully in comparison with a natural light source.
The CRI is an index from 1 to 100, 100 being a perfect score (e.g. sun light). Those ugly yellow parking lot lights (high pressure sodium lights) have a CRI of 49. The reason we are not a fan of fluorescents are because most of them are in the 60’s and 70’s range and do a poor job of accurately reproducing colour.
This is especially true in a home where great care was taken in selecting fabrics for furniture, paint color for walls, and floor coverings. Most LED lights are in the low 80’s. The CREE LED can light has the highest CRI of all the LED can lights produced to date with a CRI of 92.
Beautiful Color #2: Do the LED Lights Produce Consistent Color?
Another difference between high quality LED lighting and low quality LED lighting is the consistency of the color temperature across multiple products. If you retrofit your kitchen with 10 LED can lights, it is important that all 10 produce the same “white” light.
The CREE LED can light has a technology called “True White”. This circuitry continually measures and adjusts the output of the light to insure it is consistent in color temperature from fixture to fixture and over time as well. Ask your LED salesperson if the LED lights you are buying will be consistent in color temperature.
Direction of Light #3: Will the LED Light Shine Light Where I Need It?
Unlike an incandescent lamp, which has a filament that emits light in 360°, an LED is a small semiconductor chip, which by nature only emits light in one direction. LED manufacturers then place a lens on top of the LED to either narrow or widen this light. Unlike an incandescent lamp, most LED lights come with a specified beam spread. Whether you need a 10° spot light, a 60° flood light, or an LED replacement for your lamp with needs to mimic an incandescent, be sure to examine the LED light beam spread ratings before you buy.
Long Life #4: Does it have an Effective Thermal Management System?
Many LED manufacturers boast of their LED lamp life being 50,000 hours or more. While LEDs have the potential of lasting this long, this is only true if the led fixture is designed to effectively pull the heat away from the led. Many people think LEDs do not produce any heat. This is not true.
They do produce a small amount of heat, but at the small junction on the LED surface where the light is being produced, the heat is intense. A well manufactured LED light using LEDs of .5 watts or more will have a piece of metal with fins for cooling as part of the fixture.
Setting the Mood #5: Can the LED Light be Dimmed?
Not all LED lights can be dimmed. Be sure to ask this question before being your LED light. If the answer is “Yes”, be sure to ask what kind of dimmer to use.
Some LED lights can be dimmed with a standard incandescent dimmer. Others need a magnetic low voltage dimmer. Still others need an electronic low voltage dimmer or even a dimmer built for fluorescent ballasts (using the 0 – 10V dimming system). Be sure to buy your LED lights from a knowledgeable salesperson who can guide to the proper LED light and corresponding dimmer.
Less Power Required #6: Will the LED Light Save Me Money?
I know I am on point 6 of a 5-point list, but no conversation regarding LED lighting is complete without a discussion regarding the lower power requirements of LED lighting.
The actual term to measure the efficiency of lighting is called Efficacy and is measured in lumens per watt. Lumens is the amount of light output of a light source, so Efficacy measures how much light is produced for each watt of power used by the light source. The higher the efficacy, the more light that is produced for the same amount of power.
An incandescent bulb has an efficacy of 14, which means that a small amount of power goes towards light and the vast majority is used as heat. Fluorescents have a higher efficacy of 40, which is why “green” advocates prefer them because of their energy savings. Unfortunately, fluorescents have a low CRI (see above), are not dimmable (at least not without purchasing an expensive dimming ballast), and are not very “green” since they contain mercury with is very harmful to the environment.
LED lights are the ultimate “green” light since they have an efficacy of over 60 (with reports that the newer LEDs are pushing 80), produce beautiful light (if you buy the right one), and are made out of a bit of metal and plastic, making them friendly to the environment when their life is over.
When talking dollars and cents, the bottom line is that while LED lights are more expensive initially, their payback time is about 2 years depending on usage. If you replaced a kitchen that had ten 6” can lights containing 75watt incandescent lamps with the CREE LR6 (a 12 watt LED that retrofits into a standard 6” can light) and used them 10 hours per day, the payback period would be 2 years 3 months, with a total savings of $4,810.58 over the life of the LED light.
For years, climate contrarians have pointed to snowfall and cold weather to question the scientific reality of human-induced climate change.
Such misinformation obscures the work scientists are doing to figure out just how climate change is affecting weather patterns year-round.
Understanding what scientists know about these effects can help us adapt. And, if we reduce the emissions that are driving climate change, we can dramatically reduce the pace of change and better prepare for the consequences in the future.
What is the relationship between weather and climate?
Weather is what’s happening outside the door right now; today a snowstorm or a thunderstorm is approaching. Climate, on the other hand, is the pattern of weather measured over decades.
NASA and NOAA plus research centers around the world track the global average temperature, and all conclude that Earth is warming. In fact, the past decade has been found to be the hottest since scientists started recording reliable data in the 1880s. These rising temperatures are caused primarily by an increase of heat-trapping emissions in the atmosphere created when we burn coal, oil, and gas to generate electricity, drive our cars, and fuel our businesses.
Hotter air around the globe causes more moisture to be held in the air than in prior seasons. When storms occur, this added moisture can fuel heavier precipitation in the form of more intense rain or snow.
At the same time, because less of a region’s precipitation is falling in light storms and more of it in heavy storms, the risks of drought and wildfire are also greater. Ironically, higher air temperatures tend to produce intense drought periods punctuated by heavy floods, often in the same region.
These kinds of disasters may become a normal pattern in our everyday weather as levels of heat-trapping gases in the atmosphere continue to rise.
The North America is already experiencing more intense rain and snowstorms. The amount of rain or snow falling in the heaviest one percent of storms has risen nearly 20 percent, averaged nationally—almost three times the rate of increase in total precipitation between 1958 and 2007.
Some regions of the country have seen as much as a 67 percent increase in the amount of rain or snow falling in the heaviest storms — and an updated version of this figure from the draft National Climate Assessment suggests this increase may have risen to 74 percent between 1958 and 2011.
Overall, it’s warming, but we still have cold winter weather.
The seasons we experience are a result of the Earth’s tilted axis as it revolves around the Sun. During the North American winter, our hemisphere is tilted away from the Sun and its light hits us at a different angle, making temperatures lower.
While climate change won’t have any impact on Earth’s tilt, it is significantly shifting temperatures and causing spring weather to arrive earlier than it used to. Overall, spring weather arrives 10 days earlier than it used to, on average. “Spring creep” is something scientists projected would happen as the globe continues to warm.
The Arctic connection: A look at recent North American winters
Winters have generally been warming faster than other seasons in the United States and Canada and recent research indicates that climate change is disrupting the Arctic and ice around the North Pole.
The Arctic summer sea ice extent broke all records during the end of the 2012 sea ice melt season. Some researchers are pointing to a complex interplay between Arctic sea ice decline, ocean patterns, upper winds, and the shifting shape of the jet stream that could lead to extreme weather in various portions of northern mid-latitudes — such that some places get tons of snow repeatedly and others are unseasonably warm.
In the Arctic, frigid air is typically trapped in a tight loop known as the polar vortex. This super-chilled air is not only cold, it also tends to have low barometric pressure compared to the air outside the vortex. The surrounding high-pressure zones push in on the vortex from all sides so the cold air is essentially “fenced in” above the Arctic, where it belongs.
As the Arctic region warms faster than most other places, however, the Arctic sea ice melts more rapidly and for longer periods each year, and is unable to replenish itself in the briefer, warmer winter season. This can destabilize the polar vortex and raises the barometric pressure within it.
Global Warming
For two winter seasons (2009/2010 and 2010/2011), the polar vortex was notably unstable. In addition, another measurement of barometric pressure—the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO)—was in negative mode, weakening part of the barometric pressure “fence” around the polar vortex. This instability allows the cold Artic air to break free and flow southward, where it collides with warmer, moisture-laden air. This collision can produce severe winter weather in some regions and leave milder conditions in other parts of the northern hemisphere.
The winter of 2009/2010 recorded the second lowest negative phase of the NAO since the 1970s, which helps to explain the record snowfalls across the northeastern United States. The 2010/2011 winter also trended toward a strong negative phase.
During the 2011/2012 winter, there was a shift in the position of the jet stream, which separates cold arctic air from warmer air. Typically New England, the Great Lakes, and parts of the Great Plains sit north of the jet stream and remain cold in the winter season. However, the 2011/2012 winter jet stream position meant these regions were south of it for most of the winter, which helped produce the fourth-warmest U.S. winter on record.
The lack of snowfall and snowpack for the winter of 2011/2012 and the following spring was a precursor to the large drought episode that impacted two-thirds of the nation during the summer and autumn of 2012.
In the following winter of 2012/2013, the polar vortex was more stable, with the NAO in December and January around neutral, and moderately high in February. The weather systems were not dominated by the polar vortex but equally influenced by several other oceanic and atmospheric drivers, including the Pacific North American pattern and the Arctic Oscillation.
Even though hundreds of monthly precipitation records were broken across the United States in February 2013, the winter of 2012/2013 was characterized by a complex interplay of atmospheric drivers, with no single factor dominating the storm tracks and the broader scale circulation.
The North American winter of 2013/2014 is shaping up to be a complex interplay among the upper atmosphere circulation over North America and the ocean conditions in the East and North Pacific with other factors playing a minor role according to November patterns. December 2013 data are still being analyzed; preliminary indicators suggest that the early season snows that obscured football games played in the Eastern U.S. and caused transportation disruptions in early December were in part linked with a deep penetration of the jet stream over the center of North America.
Scientists are looking into how the jet stream pattern shifts in recent years have influenced where winter sets in hardest in the Northern Hemisphere, though it’s not clear how much impact this trend will have in the future, especially as the Arctic ice continues to lose mass.
It’s not too late.
The choices we make today can help determine what our climate will be like in the future. Putting a limit on heat-trapping emissions, encouraging the use of healthier, cleaner energy technologies, and increasing our energy efficiency are all ways to help us to avert the worst potential consequences of global warming, no matter what the season.
Insuring Your Home While Being Built – Construction Insurance
Even though insuring a home while it is under construction or being built is not directed by any laws, it is a must, especially if you finance all or a part of construction costs.
So, what type of construction loan insurance is required, and who is required to get it?
You may be one of the lucky ones whose insurance company covers your new home during construction under your standard homeowner’s policy. This will cover you for any damage to the house as it’s being built and may provide some coverage for theft of building materials.
Assuming you are not one of the lucky ones, there are three types of insurance needed to build a new home.
All banks require builders’ risk and general liability. Workman’s compensation is only needed if your builder has employees.
Builders risk insurance, specially designed to cover homes while they are under construction, protects the project itself from direct damage. Almost anything that can damage the project is covered. Typical policies include fire, lightning, windstorm, hail, and vandalism.
Lenders require the Builder’s Risk policy to cover the loan amount or the cost to build a new home that was specified on the appraisal. No bank will finance your home without this coverage.
This insurance doesn’t provide liability coverage or any protection for the home’s contents since there typically won’t be any personal possessions at the construction site.
A broader form of coverage is available, yet not necessary for minimum loan requirements, called “all-risk” insurance. It protects from every risk except those spelled out as exclusions.
Builder’s Risk insurance usually must cover at least 100 percent of the value of the home or the value of the total credit line on a construction loan.
Typically, if the new home is built on your lot, it is up to the homeowner to buy this type of insurance. Builder only insures it in the case the lot is in his name, and the title will be transferred to you at closing.
General Liability insurance is designed to offer specific protection against third party insurance claims, i.e., payment is not typically made to the insured, but rather to someone suffering loss who is not a party to the insurance contract. For example, neighbour’s kids are playing on the construction site, and one of them falls and brakes his leg.
You or your builder can provide this policy. This policy is a comprehensive general policy or a broad form liability endorsement. If the builder provides the insurance, a general policy of $1,000,000 or a broad form liability endorsement is required.
Owner builders are legally responsible for conduct and damages on the job site and can be sued for negligence. General contractors solve this problem through their General Liability Policy. Since this policy is a commercial policy, it can be very expensive for the owner-builder.
The arrangement as to who provides this coverage must be worked out between the homeowner and the builder. However, any reputable builder will usually provide a policy that has coverage for all potential accidents.
Ask your builder upfront if they have general liability insurance. Some builders cannot afford or do not want to pay for the insurance and then guess who has to provide it. You can save yourself a lot of money and headaches if you work with a builder that has insurance.
If your builder tells you he is not required to provide any coverage whatsoever, he is most likely correct because it is not a law to have insurance to build a house.
If the builder directly subcontracts out the work and does not have employees per se, they will need to write a letter acknowledging that they do not have employees and are not required to have WSIB.
However, if your builder owns his company and has employees that are helping to build your home, the workman’s compensation is required.
This coverage will protect the contractor and the workers who are working on the property.
If an employee is injured during the construction of a home and proper workers’ compensation insurance wasn’t funded, a worker can potentially come after both a contractor and a homeowner for damages.
Some of the financial institutions may ask for the builder to provide this insurance. So make sure you hire a reputable builder, it will help your construction loan close much faster.
As long as suitable workers’ compensation policy is in effect, the law states that injured workers may recover fixed insurance benefits but may not sue their employers. In some instances, owner builders are considered employers, so knowing who is responsible for the worker on-site is paramount.
In the case of sub-contractors providing workers for a project, they should already have a Workers’ Comp policy, and the owner-builder should not allow any work to be performed without proof of this insurance.
The kitchen countertop has to be able to take a lot of abuse including the heat of pots, cutting and knives and abrasive cleansers. The ideal countertop should be able to stand up to heat and the sharp edge of a knife.
Let us take a look at 7 of the most popular kitchen countertop materials being used today:
Granite:
A natural stone, granite is a popular choice for its classic beauty and durability. Granite is the hardest and densest of the natural stones. It can create a kitchen countertop that is extremely scratch resistant and can keep its luster longer than most materials. Granite slabs are the most expensive of all kitchen countertop surfaces, although it is still considered a very functional material in that it is virtually indestructible.
Marble
Another natural stone, marble is considered to be the height of elegance and will last longer than most kitchens. It is, however, is very expensive and requires some care: acidic foods such as orange juice will etch the finished surface of a marble kitchen countertop.
Slate
Because of it richness and beauty slate is usually used in interior applications such as kitchen countertops, bathroom sinks or fireplace surrounds. It can be utilized in either modern or traditional kitchens as well as in combination with marble. Slate is durable, stable, and can withstand hard use. It is less expensive than marble
Concrete
This is one of the biggest trends in kitchen countertops today. It is a good look for clean, industrial and contemporary kitchen designs. Available in pre-formed sections or poured and formed on-site. Concrete is an excellent material for unusually shaped counters. Concrete kitchen countertops are expensive, require a sealant and must be treated with care. The countertop can crack if the concrete should contract. Concrete can be stained any color. The most popular color is a natural gray tone. The top layer can be finished as desired.
Corian
A solid surface material that first became popular in the 1990’s It is highly recommended by kitchen countertop experts. It is an entirely manmade product and is not porous. As a solid surface, it can easily be repaired if scratched or burned.
Stainless Steel
Advantages include very hygienic, easy to clean, can stand up to extreme wear and heat. Stainless steel can provide a great look for an ultra modern kitchen. Some disadvantages with stainless are that it can be noisy and that scratches can develop.
Tile
Tile surfaces can be tough, hard-wearing, takes hot pans, heat and stain resistant as well as beautiful. There are many types of tiles including ceramic, porcelain, quarry, glass, natural stone and mosaic. Available in many colors, sizes and textures. It has excellent design flexibility. Tile can often be used for trim or backsplashes. The downside of tile is that the grouts can be easily stained. Also, the tiles can become chipped or cracked.
Quartz
Quartz is also referred to as engineered stone is made from 93% natural quartz and 7% resin pigments and binders
durable material. It is mould, mildew, heat, crack and scratch resistant, impervious to stains, does not need to be sealed and is extremely hygienic. Quartz is available in different looks such as imitation granite and stone or a variety of colours.
If you ask someone who has recently built a custom home, you may hear a horror story about their experience. Perhaps four out of ten people will say their experience was “fair,” and only one in ten will say their experience was “great.”
