Residential Solar Panels Ontario 2025

Residential Solar Panels Ontario: Is It Worth the Investment in 2025?

Discover if residential solar panels are a smart investment for your Ontario home in 2025. Learn about costs, rebates, tax credits, and compare thermal vs. photovoltaic systems to make an informed decision that could save you thousands.

Sunshine on a Cloudy Day: The Reality of Solar Power in Ontario

Picture this: You’re sipping coffee on a frosty January morning in Toronto, looking out at the snow-covered roof of your home. The thermometer reads -15°C, and the sky is that particular shade of Ontario winter gray. “Perfect day to generate some solar power!” said no one ever, right?

Wrong! Despite our reputation for brutal winters and less-than-tropical sunshine, Ontario homeowners are increasingly turning to solar energy – and with good reason. While we might not have Arizona’s blazing desert sun, Ontario receives an average of 1,900-2,100 hours of sunshine annually. That’s plenty to power your home, reduce your carbon footprint, and potentially save you thousands of dollars in the long run.

But let’s face it – installing solar panels is a significant investment, and Ontarians are practical folks. We want to know the bottom line: Is it actually worth it? How many panels will you need? And most importantly, how can the government help foot the bill?

This article will cut through the jargon and marketing hype to give you a clear-eyed assessment of residential solar panels in Ontario for 2025. We’ll compare the two main types of solar technology – photovoltaic (PV) and thermal – and answer your burning questions about costs, savings, and incentives. By the end, you’ll have all the information you need to decide if solar is right for your Ontario home.

Solar 101: PV vs. Thermal – What’s the Difference?

Before we dive into the dollars and cents, let’s clarify what we’re talking about. When most people think of “solar panels,” they’re picturing photovoltaic (PV) panels, but there’s another important solar technology called thermal solar. These systems serve different purposes, and some homes can benefit from both.

Photovoltaic (PV) Solar: Electricity from Sunshine

Photovoltaic panels are what most people picture when thinking about solar power. These panels:

  • Convert sunlight directly into electricity
  • Can power anything that runs on electricity in your home
  • Can feed excess electricity back to the grid (in grid-tied systems)
  • Work even on cloudy days (though with reduced efficiency)
  • Have no moving parts and typically last 25-30 years

A typical residential PV system in Ontario ranges from 5 to 10 kilowatts (kW) in capacity. These systems usually cost between $2.50 and $3.00 per watt installed, meaning a 7.5 kW system would cost approximately $18,750 to $22,500 before incentives.

Thermal Solar: Heat from Sunshine

Solar thermal systems, on the other hand, capture the sun’s heat directly. These systems:

  • Use collectors (often flat panels or tubes) filled with a heat-transfer fluid
  • Primarily heat water for domestic use or space heating
  • Can heat swimming pools or hot tubs efficiently
  • Are particularly efficient in cold, sunny climates (yes, like Ontario!)
  • Typically cost much less than PV systems upfront

A residential solar thermal system for hot water in Ontario typically costs between $7,000 and $12,000 installed, depending on the size and complexity.

The Tale of Two Systems: Which is Right for Your Home?

If you’re trying to decide between PV and thermal, consider these factors:

Choose PV if:

  • You want to reduce overall electricity bills
  • Your home uses electricity for heating
  • You want to participate in Ontario’s net metering program
  • You’re interested in potential future integration with battery storage or electric vehicles

Choose thermal if:

  • You use a lot of hot water
  • You have a hydronic (water-based) heating system
  • You want a system with high efficiency even in cold weather
  • Your primary goal is reducing natural gas or propane consumption

Consider both if:

  • You want to maximize your renewable energy usage
  • Your home has high electricity AND hot water/heating demands
  • You have sufficient roof space or yard area for both systems
  • Your budget allows for phased installation (perhaps starting with thermal for faster ROI)

Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s address the questions on every Ontario homeowner’s mind.

Is It Worth Installing Solar Panels in Ontario?

The short answer is: for many homeowners, yes – but it depends on several factors.

The Financial Case

Let’s break down the typical return on investment (ROI) for a 7.5 kW residential PV system in Ontario:

  • Initial cost: Approximately $22,500
  • Federal rebate: $5,000 (more on this later)
  • Adjusted cost after rebate: $17,500
  • Annual electricity production: ~8,400 kWh (varies by location and installation)
  • Annual savings (at $0.13/kWh): ~$1,092
  • Simple payback period: About 16 years

That might seem long, but consider:

  1. Electricity rates have been increasing by approximately 3-5% annually in Ontario
  2. Solar panels typically last 25-30 years (with warranties to match)
  3. After the payback period, you’re essentially generating free electricity
  4. Home value typically increases by 3-4% with solar panel installation

Let me translate that into everyday terms: Installing solar in Ontario is like prepaying for 25+ years of electricity at a fixed rate lower than today’s prices. Imagine if you could lock in today’s gas prices for the next 25 years – you’d probably jump at the chance, right?

Beyond the Dollars: Additional Benefits

Financial returns aren’t the only reason to consider solar:

  • Energy independence: Reduce vulnerability to power outages and rate increases
  • Environmental impact: The average residential solar system in Ontario offsets about 6-7 tonnes of CO2 annually – equivalent to planting about 150 trees every year
  • Supporting local jobs: Ontario has a growing solar industry that creates local installation and maintenance jobs
  • Future-proofing: Integration with emerging technologies like home batteries and electric vehicles

As one of my clients in Mississauga told me recently, “The day I got my first negative electricity bill was better than winning $50 on a scratch ticket – and it keeps coming month after month!”

The Not-So-Sunny Side

In the interest of full transparency, there are some challenges:

  • Winter performance: Output decreases in winter months due to shorter days and snow cover
  • Initial investment: Even with incentives, the upfront cost is significant
  • Roof considerations: Some roofs may need reinforcement or replacement before installation
  • HOA restrictions: Some neighborhoods have aesthetic restrictions (though provincial law generally favors solar rights)

Bottom line: For homeowners planning to stay in their homes for at least 10 years, with suitable roof space and sufficient sun exposure, solar panels typically make financial sense in Ontario – especially as electricity prices continue to rise.

How Many Solar Panels Are Needed to Power a House in Ontario?

This is a bit like asking, “How long is a piece of string?” The answer depends on several factors:

Size Matters: Determining Your Energy Needs

The average Ontario household consumes approximately 9,500 kWh of electricity annually. However, this varies widely based on:

  • House size (a 3,000 sq. ft. home obviously uses more than a 1,200 sq. ft. condo)
  • Heating source (electric heating dramatically increases consumption)
  • Number of occupants (that teenager who takes 30-minute showers? They’re costing you)
  • Appliance efficiency (that harvest gold fridge from 1978 is not doing you any favors)
  • Conservation habits (are you the type who turns off lights, or is your home lit up like the CN Tower?)

To determine your specific needs, review your electricity bills for the past year and find your total annual consumption in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

From Consumption to Panels: The Math

Once you know your annual consumption, you can calculate how many panels you’ll need:

  1. Determine your annual electricity usage (let’s use 9,500 kWh as an example)
  2. Factor in system efficiency losses (typically 20-25%)
  3. Calculate the system size needed:
    • 9,500 kWh ÷ 0.75 (efficiency factor) = 12,667 kWh needed
    • 12,667 kWh ÷ annual sun hours in Ontario (let’s use 1,150 hours) = 11 kW system
  4. Determine panels needed:
    • If using 400W panels: 11,000W ÷ 400W = 27.5 panels (round up to 28)

The Real-World Translation

For most Ontario homes seeking to offset 100% of their electricity usage, you’re typically looking at:

  • Small home/condo with efficient appliances: 15-20 panels (6-8 kW)
  • Average single-family home: 20-30 panels (8-12 kW)
  • Large home with electric heating or pool: 30-40+ panels (12-16+ kW)

However, many homeowners choose to offset only a portion of their usage due to roof space limitations or budget constraints. A 50-75% offset is often the sweet spot for maximizing returns.

As my colleague in the industry likes to joke, “In Ontario, the perfect number of solar panels is always ‘as many as your spouse will let you put on the roof.'”

Space Considerations: Will They Fit?

Each standard residential solar panel takes up about 17-20 square feet. So a 28-panel system would require approximately 500 square feet of roof space – about the size of a two-car garage.

The ideal roof for solar in Ontario:

  • Faces south (southeast or southwest is also good)
  • Has a pitch of 30-45 degrees
  • Is free from shade from 9 am to 3 pm
  • Has simple planes without multiple dormers or obstructions

Don’t have the perfect roof? Don’t worry. Modern panels and micro-inverter technology can make east/west facing roofs viable, albeit with somewhat reduced production.

What Is the $5,000 Solar Rebate in Canada?

Ah, now we’re talking about everyone’s favorite topic – free money from the government! The good news is that yes, there is a significant federal incentive for solar installation. The Canada Greener Homes Grant offers up to $5,000 for qualifying home energy improvements, including solar PV systems.

How the Greener Homes Grant Works

The process works like this:

  1. Pre-retrofit evaluation: An energy advisor assesses your home (cost: $600, but this is reimbursable up to $600)
  2. Plan your project: Based on recommendations, choose eligible upgrades including solar PV
  3. Apply for pre-approval: Register your project with the program
  4. Installation: Have your solar system installed by a qualified contractor
  5. Post-retrofit evaluation: The energy advisor returns to verify the installation
  6. Receive your grant: Funds are typically disbursed 2-3 months after final approval

For solar PV specifically, the grant provides $1,000 per kilowatt (kW) of installed capacity, up to a maximum of $5,000. This means a 5kW system or larger would qualify for the full $5,000.

The Fine Print (Because There’s Always Fine Print)

Before you start counting that $5,000, be aware of these requirements:

  • Your home must be your primary residence
  • The home must be at least six months old
  • You must complete both pre and post-retrofit evaluations
  • The installation must be completed by a qualified contractor
  • The system must be grid-connected and approved by your local utility
  • Funds are limited, so apply sooner rather than later

One Toronto homeowner described the process to me as “about as fun as filing taxes, but at least you get a check at the end instead of writing one.”

Beyond the Federal Grant: Local Incentives

While the province-wide microFIT program ended years ago, some local utilities and municipalities offer additional incentives:

  • Some utilities offer preferential connection fees for solar customers
  • Certain municipalities provide property tax incentives for green energy improvements
  • Indigenous communities may have access to additional funding programs

Always check with your local utility and municipal government for the latest offers.

What Is the Tax Credit for Solar Panels in Ontario?

In addition to the $5,000 Greener Homes Grant, there’s more good news on the financial front. The federal government offers a tax credit that can further reduce your solar investment.

The Canada Greener Homes Loan Interest-Free Program

While not specifically a tax credit, this program provides:

  • Interest-free loans of up to $40,000 for eligible home retrofits including solar
  • Loan terms of up to 10 years
  • Can be used in conjunction with the $5,000 grant

This essentially allows you to finance your solar system at 0% interest – a significant benefit considering current interest rates.

CRA Home Renovation Tax Credit

For seniors and those living with seniors or persons with disabilities, the Home Accessibility Tax Credit (HATC) may apply to solar installations in certain circumstances. This provides a 15% non-refundable tax credit on up to $20,000 of eligible expenses.

Business and Farm Installations

For those installing solar on business properties or farms in Ontario:

  • Class 43.2 Capital Cost Allowance: Allows accelerated depreciation (100% in the first year for equipment acquired before 2025)
  • Canadian Agricultural Partnership (CAP): Offers funding for farms implementing clean energy solutions

The Tax Implications of Net Metering

While not a tax credit per se, it’s worth understanding the tax treatment of Ontario’s net metering program:

  • Credits earned for excess electricity are applied to future bills
  • These credits are not considered taxable income
  • The value of electricity offset by your solar production is essentially tax-free savings

As my accountant friend likes to say, “Solar power is like a tax-free investment account for your roof. The government pays you to open it, and then you get tax-free returns for 25 years.”

Living with Solar in Ontario: The Real-World Experience

Numbers and tax credits are important, but what’s it actually like to live with solar panels in Ontario? Let’s hear from some real homeowners:

The Good: What Owners Love

Carol from Ottawa: “Our first winter, I was skeptical when everything was covered in snow. But even with the winter production drop, we still produced 80% of our annual needs and saved over $1,300 in the first year.”

Raj from Brampton: “The app that tracks our production is addictive. My kids check it daily and have become little energy conservationists. They turn off lights now because they want to see how long we can stay ‘in the green’ each day.”

Michael from Kingston: “I installed a 10kW system with the intent of eventually adding an electric car. Three years later, I bought an EV, and now I’m essentially driving on sunshine. My hydro bill AND my gas expenses are nearly zero.”

The Challenges: Common Complaints

Lisa from Hamilton: “Snow clearing was something I hadn’t fully considered. We invested in a specialized roof rake, but it’s still a chore after heavy snowfalls.”

David from London: “The paperwork with the utility took longer than expected – almost three months from installation to final connection. Plan for delays in your timeline.”

Emma from Sudbury: “Our installation was in October, and production was minimal until spring. If possible, I’d recommend installing in spring to maximize first-year returns.”

Maintenance Reality Check

The good news is that solar PV systems require minimal maintenance:

  • Annual inspection (often included in warranties)
  • Occasional cleaning in areas with high pollen or dust
  • Snow removal in winter (optional, as snow usually melts or slides off)
  • Inverter replacement (typically once during the system’s 25-30 year lifespan)

Most Ontario solar installers offer maintenance packages ranging from $200-$300 annually, though many homeowners opt to handle basic maintenance themselves.

Making the Decision: Is Solar Right for Your Ontario Home?

After all this information, you might still be wondering if solar is the right choice for your specific situation. Here’s a simple decision framework:

Solar is likely a good investment if:

  • Your annual electricity bills exceed $1,200
  • You have suitable roof space with good solar exposure
  • You plan to remain in your home for 7+ years
  • You’re interested in reducing your environmental impact
  • You want protection against rising electricity costs

You might want to reconsider if:

  • Your roof needs replacement within the next 5 years
  • Your property has heavy shade from trees you’re unwilling to trim
  • You’re planning to move within 5 years
  • Your electricity consumption is already very low

The Middle Path: Starting Small

Not ready to commit to a full system? Consider these stepping stones:

  1. Solar hot water: Lower initial investment with excellent returns
  2. Partial PV system: Cover a portion of your usage with the option to expand later
  3. Community solar: Some Ontario communities offer shares in larger solar projects

Conclusion: The Forecast is Sunny (Mostly)

While Ontario might not be the first place that comes to mind for solar power, the financial and environmental case is stronger than most people realize. With federal incentives, rising electricity costs, and increasingly efficient panel technology, solar power has become a viable and attractive option for Ontario homeowners.

Is it worth it? For many homeowners, the answer is a resounding yes – not just financially, but also for energy independence and environmental impact.

Will it pay for itself? Typically yes, within 12-18 years for most installations, with an additional 10+ years of “free” electricity thereafter.

Is it hassle-free? Not entirely – there’s paperwork, maintenance, and some seasonal considerations. But most owners report that the benefits far outweigh the hassles.

As climate concerns grow and technology improves, the case for solar in Ontario will only get stronger. So while our winters may be long and our skies occasionally gray, the outlook for solar power in the province is decidedly sunny.

And remember, as we like to say in the Ontario solar industry: “Even on cloudy days, the sun is still working – just like Canadians.”

About the Author: This article was researched and written by a renewable energy specialist with over 10 years of experience in the Ontario solar market. All information is current as of April 2025. While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, incentive programs and regulations change frequently. Always consult with a qualified solar installer and check current government programs before making investment decisions.

We’d love to hear your thoughts! Please leave a comment below if you agree, disagree, or have any questions about the topic. If you need additional information or want to continue the conversation, don’t hesitate to contact us. For more insights and how-to guides, feel free to explore the links below or head over to our “The Workbench” page. We look forward to hearing from you!

Cost of Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating in Ontario

Ontario’s Radiant Floor Heating: A Deep Dive into Costs, Comfort & Clever Incentives For 2025

Imagine this: It’s a frosty Ontario morning, and you reluctantly peel yourself from bed. But instead of freezing feet and the dreaded “cold floor shock,” you step onto a surface that warmly greets you—almost like a gentle hug from your house. That’s the magic of hydronic radiant floor heating. In this article, we’ll take you on a journey through the cost, installation, operation, and benefits of radiant floor heating in Ontario. We’ll also throw in a bit of humor along the way (because who says home upgrades can’t be fun?) and explain how some clever government incentives might just help your wallet as much as your toes.

Key Resource: For more details on the numbers behind radiant heating, check out HomeGuide’s Radiant Heating Cost Guide.

🔍 Introduction: The Warm Promise of Radiant Floors

Hydronic radiant floor heating works by circulating hot water through a network of PEX tubing hidden beneath your floor. Instead of blowing heated air through ducts (and stirring up dust like an overenthusiastic leaf blower), radiant heating offers a silent, even, and comforting warmth that rises from the floor. Imagine it as the “undercover” superhero of heating systems—quietly ensuring your home stays toasty, without the drama of noisy fans or uneven hot spots.

Why Ontario?

Ontario winters are no joke. With temperatures often dropping below freezing (and sometimes lower than your in-law’s critique of your décor), a reliable heating system is more than a luxury—it’s a necessity. Radiant floor heating appeals to Ontario homeowners not only because it creates an environment that’s consistently warm and comfortable, but also because it can potentially lower energy bills over time. Plus, who wouldn’t want to say, “My floors are literally as warm as my heart”?

The Trade-Offs

Of course, nothing in life comes for free. Radiant floor heating does have a higher initial price tag compared to forced-air or electric baseboard systems. However, once installed, it operates quietly and efficiently, offering longevity that can last decades (and yes, that means you might not have to “upgrade” your heating system every few years). We’ll get into the nitty-gritty details below, from design and installation to operating and maintenance costs.

🛠️ The Cost Breakdown: From Design to Daily Operation

When budgeting for hydronic radiant floor heating in Ontario, you’re really looking at two major cost centers:

  1. The Radiant System Itself: This includes materials like PEX tubing, manifolds, controls, and the labor to install them.
  2. The Heat Source: Most commonly a boiler (or an alternative such as an air-to-water heat pump) that heats the water.

Let’s break down each of these components in detail.

📐 Design, Permits & Materials: The Blueprint of Warmth

Design & Permits

Before you can have warm floors, you need a plan. Designing a radiant floor heating system isn’t like picking a color for your living room; it’s a technical process that ensures your home’s heat load is calculated correctly, that the tubing layout is optimized, and that you’re in full compliance with Ontario’s building codes.

  • Cost Range: Typically, design and permit packages run between $250 and $650.
  • Why It Matters: A detailed design ensures that your system will work efficiently. Think of it as paying for a personalized “blueprint of coziness” that even your local inspector will give a nod of approval.

Materials

The star player here is PEX tubing—the unsung hero of radiant heating.

  • PEX Tubing Costs: Usually falls in the range of $0.50 to $2.00 per square foot of the heated area.
  • Extra Hardware for Retrofits: If you’re installing in an existing home, you might need additional items like aluminum heat transfer plates. These can cost $5–$6 per square foot.
  • The Math: For a 600 sq. ft. area, you might be looking at anything from a couple of hundred dollars to over $3,000, depending on whether it’s a new construction or a retrofit with all the bells and whistles.

Labor

Here’s where your local “floor ninjas” come into play. Skilled installers in Ontario typically charge $2 to $5 per square foot.

  • New Construction vs. Retrofit: Installing radiant floors during new construction is much simpler (and cheaper) since the system can be planned in from the start. Retrofitting, on the other hand, might involve tearing up finished floors—a process that can feel like ripping out your favorite rug, but necessary to achieve that underfloor warmth.
  • Overall Impact: Labor is one of the larger cost drivers, so it’s always wise to get multiple quotes if you’re going the retrofit route.

🔥 Heating Sources: Powering Up Your Warm Floors

Choosing the right heat source is crucial—not only for performance but also for overall cost and energy efficiency. Here’s a look at the options:

Natural Gas Boiler

For many Ontario homeowners, natural gas is the go-to fuel.

  • Equipment Costs: A good gas-fired condensing boiler might cost between $3,000 and $6,000.
  • Installation: When you add labor and additional hookups (like venting and plumbing), expect the total installed cost to be in the $10,000 to $20,000 range.
  • Why Choose Gas: It’s reliable, the fuel is relatively affordable in Ontario, and condensing boilers are very efficient at low temperatures—perfect for radiant systems.

Air-to-Water Heat Pump

If you’re a fan of modern technology and energy efficiency, this option is for you.

  • Costs: An air-to-water heat pump system generally falls between $10,000 and $20,000.
  • Efficiency Perks: These systems are like the smartphone upgrade from an old flip phone—more efficient and smarter. They work by transferring heat from outside air (even on chilly days) into your home.
  • Humorous Note: It’s like having a personal weather wizard under your floors, albeit one that charges a bit more upfront!

Discover More: For additional details on these systems, visit Energy Star – Heat Pumps.

Other Options: Electric, Geothermal, and More

  • Electric Boilers: They tend to have a lower initial cost (around $1,000 to $3,000), but electricity is pricier than natural gas. They’re best suited for small areas or supplemental heating.
  • Geothermal (Ground-Source Heat Pumps): These systems can cost anywhere from $20,000 to $50,000 upfront. They’re highly efficient because they use the stable temperature of the ground—but unless you’re a fan of long-term investments (and don’t mind a hefty bill at the start), they might not be the best for every homeowner.

🏗️ New Construction vs. Retrofitting: The Great Divide

New Construction

If you’re building your dream home from scratch, incorporating radiant floor heating is like adding the ultimate luxury feature without any extra hassle.

  • Seamless Integration: The system can be designed and installed as part of the overall construction process, making it more cost-effective and less disruptive.
  • Cost Advantage: New construction often sees a lower per-square-foot cost because all the groundwork is already planned. In some cases, radiant systems in new builds can be 50% cheaper than retrofits.

Retrofitting

Adding radiant heating to an existing home is a bit like performing open-heart surgery on your house.

  • Challenges: You may have to tear up existing flooring, modify subfloor structures, and work around the “quirks” of a home that wasn’t originally designed for radiant heating.
  • Cost Increase: Retrofitting can cost 50–80% more than installing in a new home. That’s because you’re not just installing a system—you’re modifying your home to accommodate it.
  • Humorous Aside: It’s a bit like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, but if the warmth is worth it, you might just decide the renovation is a small price to pay.

⚡ Operating & Maintenance Costs: Keeping the Warmth Flowing

Once the system is installed, you’re in for years of quiet, cozy comfort. But what about the ongoing costs?

📊 Operating Expenses

The cost of running your radiant system largely depends on the type of heat source you choose:

Natural Gas Systems

  • Annual Cost: A typical Ontario home might spend about $1,000–$1,500 per year on natural gas for a radiant heating system.
  • Monthly Breakdown: In the heart of winter, that might translate to roughly $100–$150 per month—a bit like setting aside a modest “warmth fund” every month.
  • Why It Works: Natural gas is generally inexpensive in Ontario, and modern condensing boilers can achieve efficiencies of around 95%.

Air-to-Water Heat Pumps

  • Efficiency: Heat pumps can dramatically lower your operating costs because they move heat rather than generating it by burning fuel.
  • Monthly Savings: With an air-to-water heat pump, you might see monthly heating bills drop to as low as $50–$100 in winter, thanks to a higher coefficient of performance (COP).
  • Long-Term Benefits: Over time, the lower operating cost can help recoup the higher initial investment—if not in cash, then in the comfort of knowing your home is running efficiently.

Other Fuels: Electric, Geothermal, Propane/Oil

  • Electric Boilers: While simpler and with a lower equipment cost, electric systems can cost 2–3 times more to operate than natural gas.
  • Geothermal Systems: Although the upfront investment is steep ($20,000 to $50,000), operating costs are impressively low, sometimes around $600–$1,000 per year.
  • Propane/Oil: Generally cost more per BTU than natural gas, often leading to annual fuel costs in the $2,000–$3,000 range—definitely not the budget-friendly option if you’re watching your bills.

🔧 Maintenance: Low Fuss, High Reliability

One of the underrated benefits of radiant floor heating is its low-maintenance nature. Here’s what you need to know:

  • Boiler/Heat Pump Service: Annual or biannual check-ups usually cost between $150–$300. This ensures your heat source stays in tip-top shape.
  • Circulator Pumps & Valves: These components are built to last, often needing replacement only every 10–15 years. While they can cost a few hundred dollars if replaced, these instances are rare.
  • System Integrity: The PEX tubing is incredibly durable, often backed by warranties of 25 years or more. Once installed and pressure-tested, it’s expected to last 30–50+ years without any fuss.
  • Humorous Note: It’s like buying a car that, once tuned up properly, just keeps on cruising without much need for repairs—only in this case, the “car” is your floor, and it’s silently keeping you warm.

Maintenance Tip: For a thorough guide on keeping your system efficient and for more on energy-efficient upgrades, visit the Canada Greener Homes Grant. (This source also explains available incentives, as we’ll cover in the next section.)

🔄 How Does Radiant Heating Compare to Other Systems?

When choosing a heating system, you’re not just deciding on warmth—you’re also balancing upfront costs, operating efficiency, comfort, and long-term benefits. Let’s compare radiant floor heating to some common alternatives.

💵 Upfront Costs

  • Forced-Air Systems:
    These are generally the cheapest to install. If your home already has ductwork, you might spend only $5,000–$12,000 total. However, forced-air systems can be noisy, cause uneven heating, and sometimes stir up dust and allergens.
  • Electric Baseboards:
    Installation is typically in the $5,000–$8,000 range. They’re the bargain-basement option when it comes to initial costs, but they often lead to surprisingly high operating expenses due to the cost of electricity.
  • Hydronic Radiant Heating:
    With costs often running $20,000–$40,000 (or more, depending on the size and complexity), radiant heating is on the higher end of the spectrum. However, many homeowners consider this a premium upgrade—one that offers a significant comfort advantage over conventional systems.

⚙️ Efficiency & Comfort

  • Efficiency:
    Radiant heating is renowned for its energy efficiency. By delivering heat directly to objects and people (instead of simply heating air), it reduces losses associated with ductwork and uneven air distribution. You might even find you can lower your thermostat a few degrees and still feel perfectly comfortable—a win for energy savings!
  • Comfort:
    Forced-air systems, while effective, often create noticeable temperature differences between floors and ceilings. Radiant floors, by contrast, ensure that warmth is evenly distributed from the ground up, keeping your feet (and your mood) consistently happy. It’s like having a warm hug underfoot all winter long.
  • Air Quality & Noise:
    Radiant systems operate silently and do not circulate dust or allergens, making them an excellent choice for households with allergy concerns. Forced-air systems, with their constant movement of air, sometimes lead to issues with dryness and noise.

🤹‍♂️ Lifestyle Considerations

  • Retrofitting:
    If you’re renovating an older home, retrofitting radiant heating can be a bit more disruptive (and expensive) compared to new construction. However, the long-term benefits often outweigh the temporary inconvenience—especially if you’re tired of that creaky, outdated furnace.
  • Dual Systems:
    Some homeowners opt for hybrid approaches—using radiant heat in high-use areas (like living rooms or bathrooms) while keeping forced-air or baseboards in other areas. This can be a smart way to spread out costs and enjoy the best of both worlds.

🎁 Government Incentives & Rebates: Extra Warmth for Your Wallet

Let’s face it: when the upfront costs of a radiant floor system start stacking up, any extra help is welcome. Ontario (and Canada) offer several incentives to ease the burden of energy-efficient home improvements.

Canada Greener Homes Grant

Homeowners undertaking energy-efficient upgrades may be eligible for up to $5,000 in rebates through the Canada Greener Homes Grant program. If you pair your radiant system with a high-efficiency heat pump, you could snag a nice chunk off the total cost.

Learn More: Canada Greener Homes Grant

Additional Incentives

While our focus here is radiant heating, it’s worth noting that Ontario has periodically rolled out additional programs aimed at encouraging energy efficiency. For example, some local utilities and government bodies offer temporary rebates or low-interest loans for installations that upgrade your home’s energy performance. Always check with local authorities or trusted contractors to see what’s available when you’re ready to install your system.

Why These Programs Matter

Incentives can turn a project that initially seems to cost a small fortune into a more manageable investment. Think of them as your home improvement coupons—helping you save money while you enjoy the benefits of modern, efficient heating. Whether you’re planning a new build or a retrofit, factoring these rebates into your budget can mean the difference between a “just okay” upgrade and a seriously smart investment.

✅ Conclusion: When Warmth is Worth the Investment

Hydronic radiant floor heating in Ontario isn’t just about staying warm—it’s about upgrading your entire living experience. While the initial costs might give you pause (and might even require a deep dive into your savings account), the long-term benefits are compelling:

  • Unmatched Comfort: There’s nothing quite like the feeling of a perfectly heated floor on a cold winter morning. Radiant heat delivers gentle, consistent warmth from the ground up, turning even the chilliest day into a cozy retreat.
  • Energy Efficiency: With lower operating costs—especially when paired with a natural gas boiler or a high-efficiency heat pump—radiant heating can help keep your monthly bills in check.
  • Longevity & Low Maintenance: With components like PEX tubing that can last 30–50+ years and minimal routine maintenance, you’re looking at a system that’s built to endure.
  • Enhanced Home Value: Radiant floors are increasingly seen as a premium feature in real estate, making your home more attractive should you decide to sell.
  • Rebates & Incentives: Programs like the Canada Greener Homes Grant can help ease the financial burden, making your investment even more attractive over time.

So, if you’re ready to step into a world where your floors are as warm as your favorite cup of cocoa, and where your heating system works quietly in the background with minimal fuss, hydronic radiant floor heating might be your next best home upgrade. Sure, the upfront cost can feel like a big leap, but think of it as investing in many years of cozy, efficient living. Plus, with government rebates and incentives, that leap might just turn into a well-supported step.

In conclusion, whether you’re building a new home or retrofitting an older one, radiant floor heating offers a unique combination of comfort, efficiency, and longevity that’s hard to beat—especially during those long Ontario winters. Embrace the warmth, enjoy the savings, and let your floors do the talking (or rather, the warming) this winter.

For further insights and up-to-date information, here are our top three trusted sources:

  1. HomeGuide’s Radiant Heating Cost Guide
  2. Energy Star – Heat Pumps
  3. Canada Greener Homes Grant

Now, the next time you step onto your warm floor and smile (or even chuckle at the memory of chilly mornings past), you’ll know exactly what went into making that comfort a reality—and that a little extra investment can truly pay off in warmth, savings, and a home that feels as welcoming as a friendly hug. Enjoy every cozy step!

Geothermal Heating

How Much Does a Geothermal System Cost in 2025?

Explore the true cost of geothermal systems in 2025 with humor and practical advice. From installation to long-term savings, we break down everything you need to know.

Geothermal Heating

Is Geothermal Heating Affordable in 2025? Let’s Break Down the Costs

If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to harness the Earth’s natural energy to heat your home, welcome to the wild, wallet-busting, and wonderfully efficient world of geothermal systems. But let’s be real—you’re probably asking, “How much does a geothermal system cost in 2025?” Well, strap in, because we’re about to dive deep (literally) into the costs, quirks, and potential savings of going geothermal. Spoiler alert: it’s not cheap upfront, but your future self will thank you.

1. The Bottom Line: What’s the Damage?

In 2025, installing a geothermal system isn’t exactly pocket change. Depending on your home size, location, and whether you have a penchant for gold-plated heat pumps (just kidding… or are we?), you’re looking at anywhere from $15,000 to $38,000 for an average-sized home.

But don’t let that number scare you—think of it as an investment. You’re not just buying a heating system; you’re buying peace of mind, lower energy bills, and a smug sense of environmental superiority.

Quick Cost Snapshot:

System TypeCost Range (USD)
Horizontal Loop System$15,000 to $30,000
Vertical Loop System$25,000 to $40,000
Open Loop System$10,000 to $30,000
Closed Loop System$25,000 to $30,000

And if you’re building a mansion or want the Tesla of geothermal systems, costs can soar to $80,000. But hey, who needs a second yacht anyway?

2. What’s Driving Up the Cost?

You might be thinking, “Why does digging a few holes cost as much as a small car?” Great question. Here are the culprits behind those hefty price tags:

A. Home Size: Bigger Isn’t Always Better (for Your Wallet)

  • The Bigger the House, the Bigger the Bill: If you’ve got a sprawling 5,000 sq. ft. palace, expect your geothermal system to cost more than your neighbor’s cozy cottage.
  • Pro Tip: Smaller homes can sometimes get away with less extensive (read: cheaper) systems. Minimalism, anyone?

B. Loop System Type: Choose Your Adventure

  1. Horizontal Loop:
  • Cost: $15,000 to $30,000
  • Perfect For: Big yards and shallow pockets (relatively speaking).
  • Catch: You’ll need enough yard space to land a small plane.
  1. Vertical Loop:
  • Cost: $25,000 to $40,000
  • Perfect For: Urban lots or anyone who doesn’t want their backyard to look like a construction site.
  • Catch: Drilling deep costs more—unless you’re digging to find buried treasure.
  1. Open Loop:
  • Cost: $10,000 to $30,000
  • Perfect For: Properties with access to groundwater.
  • Catch: You’ll need clean water sources and a knack for environmental regulations.
  1. Closed Loop:
  • Cost: $25,000 to $30,000
  • Perfect For: Consistency and efficiency lovers.
  • Catch: More expensive but less maintenance. Like a luxury car, but underground.

C. Location, Location, Location

  • Soil Conditions: Rocky ground? More like rocky costs.
  • Property Accessibility: If your backyard is more “jungly” than suburban, prepare to pay extra.
  • Local Geology: Soft soil = easy digging = cheaper installation. Hard bedrock = bring out the big drills (and big bills).

3. Breaking Down the Bill: Where Does Your Money Go?

Let’s peel back the layers and see where your hard-earned cash is going:

For a 2,000 sq. ft. Home:

ComponentCost Range
Excavation$2,000 to $5,000 (horizontal loops); $10,000+ (vertical loops)
Ductwork$5,000 to $10,000
Labor$4,000 to $10,000
System Hardware$8,000 to $15,000

Bonus Expenses (a.k.a. Surprise! Fees):

  • Ductwork Modifications: Add up to $5,000 if your home needs a ductwork facelift.
  • Permits and Inspections: Depending on your municipality, expect to fork over another $1,000 or more.

4. Long-Term Savings: The Light at the End of the Geothermal Tunnel

Okay, you’ve made it past the sticker shock. Now let’s talk savings. Because, yes, geothermal systems cost a small fortune upfront, but they’ll save you a bigger fortune in the long run.

The Numbers Don’t Lie:

CategorySavings
Heating Bills30% to 70% reduction annually
Cooling Costs20% to 50% reduction
Water Heating (with desuperheater)50% reduction

Real-World Example:

Meet Joe from Sudbury. Joe spent $30,000 on a geothermal system in 2020. By 2025, he was saving $2,000 annually on heating and cooling. By 2040, Joe had saved enough to retire early—or at least buy that vintage Zamboni he’s always wanted.

5. Are There Any Government Incentives?

Good news, fellow Canadian! The government doesn’t want you freezing your toes off, so there are plenty of incentives to ease the pain of upfront costs.

  • Federal Incentives: The Canada Greener Homes Grant offers up to $5,000 back for energy-efficient retrofits.
  • Provincial Rebates: Ontario’s Clean Energy program covers up to 30% of your geothermal installation.
  • Local Bonuses: Some municipalities even throw in property tax breaks. Cheers to that!

6. Geothermal vs. Traditional HVAC: The Ultimate Showdown

FeatureGeothermalTraditional HVAC
Upfront Cost$15,000 – $38,000$5,000 – $12,000
Annual Energy Costs$1,200 – $1,800$3,200 – $4,500
MaintenanceLow (5-year intervals)Medium (annual servicing)
Lifespan25+ years10-15 years
Carbon FootprintTiny (go, Earth!)Big (boo, emissions!)

7. FAQs: You’re Still Wondering, We’re Still Answering

Q1: Can geothermal systems heat my pool too?

Absolutely! And it’ll do it so efficiently, your pool will be toasty while your wallet stays cool.

Q2: Is my home too old for geothermal?

Unless your home predates indoor plumbing, probably not. Retrofits might cost more, but they’re totally doable.

Q3: Do geothermal systems work in the winter?

You bet! In fact, they thrive in cold climates—because the Earth’s core doesn’t care about Canadian winters.

Conclusion: Is Geothermal Worth It in 2025?

In a word? Yes. But it’s not just about dollars and cents. It’s about investing in your home, your planet, and never having to argue over the thermostat again. So, if you’re ready to take the plunge (and maybe dig a few holes), geothermal is calling your name.

Now that you know how much a geothermal system costs in 2025, are you ready to make the switch? Or at least ready to impress your friends with your newfound geothermal knowledge? Either way, we’re here for it.

For more home-building insights and energy-efficient tips, visit BuildersOntario.com—where we turn construction chaos into cozy homes.

ROI: Can Geothermal Boost a Home’s Value?

Geothermal heat pumps are gaining some traction with homeowners interested in saving money, the environment, or both. People who are considering installing a heat pump in their home often find themselves asking questions about how much money a geothermal heat pump will save them, and how long it would take to break even on their purchase. However, some homeowners may forget to take into consideration that geothermal heat pumps may increase a home’s market value, resulting in more profits when the time comes to sell.

Geothermal Heating
Geothermal Heating

Why Geothermal Heat Pumps Attract Buyers

There are many factors that can influence a home’s value. Location, size, features, aesthetic, and condition of the home are all variables that buyers take into consideration when they’re trying to decide which home to purchase. Some factors are simply economical decisions, while others may be more subjective or even emotional. In that same vein, geothermal appeals to buyers for a number of reasons.

Sustainability & Eco-Friendliness

Relatively recently, green/sustainable features have become another factor that can influence a home’s value. Sustainability can not only act as a tie breaker between two similar properties, but it can also be something buyers actively pursue. More and more home buyers seek “green” homes or homes with “green” features simply out of a sense of duty or obligation — although that is not to say these buyers wouldn’t also enjoy saving money as a result.

Energy Efficiency

Geothermal HVAC systems can cut a home’s energy use by a significant amount. This is one of the easier selling points as it is one of the easiest to explain. Because they save homeowners hundreds or thousands of dollars over a period of many years, the presence of a geothermal heat pump on a property can compel buyers to make higher offers. For example, if a buyer believes there’s a reasonable opportunity save upwards of $10,000 over their decade-long residence in a home, they may be inclined to pay $5,000 more for a home with geothermal compared to an exact copy of that home with a traditional HVAC system.

Durability

Heat pumps are also long-lasting. Whereas an air conditioner lasts about 15 years, and a furnace lasts about 20, a geothermal heat pump lasts for 25 years while the ground loop can last as long as 50 years. Since the heat pump can serve as both an air conditioner and as a furnace, this means that a heat pump can potentially save a homeowner thousands of dollars over many decades on replacement HVAC appliances.

Novelty

There’s something attractive about an element of uniqueness to many buyers. Although geothermal is not really new, it’s not the most common home feature either. Just like a home with an interesting roof, unique architecture, or elegant entryway, some buyers may enjoy the prospect of “standing out” with geothermal. Their home may not be visibly different from the others in their neighborhood, but they’ve certainly obtained a good conversation starter when the topics of utilities or sustainability come up.

It’s also possible that a buyer may specifically look for homes with a geothermal system already installed and – in that case – they may be willing to make a very competitive offer.

Consider Every Variable

Making an informed decision means running all of the numbers. Even within the same neighborhood, some homes may be better suited to certain upgrades than others. It’s quite possible that monthly savings alone will make this upgrade “worth it” to homeowners. Every situation is unique and should be treated as such. Consulting with experienced professionals is a great first step.

How To Explain Radiant Floor Heating To Your Mom

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History of In-Floor Heating

In-floor heating, also called radiant floor heating, has been used for centuries. The Romans channelled hot air under the floors of their villas. The Koreans directed hot flue gases under their floors before venting them up the chimney.

In the 1930s, architect Frank Lloyd Wright piped hot water through the floors of his Usonian houses, introducing radiant floor heating to North America.

Usonian House
Gordon House – Usonian House by Frank Lloyd Wright

The “Usonian Homes” were small, single-story houses without a garage or enough storage space. They were L-shaped to fit around a garden terrace, with flat roofs and large cantilevered overhangs for passive solar heating, and natural cooling. In-floor heating was implemented by circulating hot water in copper pipes buried in insulated concrete slabs.

While these homes delivered outstanding comfort for the time, and some are still in use today, others failed early due to chemical reactions within copper piping and certain materials used in concrete. Repeated mechanical strains due to the heating and cooling also produced some failures. These problems finally tarnished the reputation of in-floor radiant heating. By the 1970s, new installs of copper-based radiant floor heating systems were nonexistent.

A lot has changed in the last ninety or so years. Back then, bigger was better, and gas-guzzling was not a concern. As oil grew more costly and even scarce during some years, the industry was required to create cars that were smaller and more efficient.

A comparable progression is occurring in the heating business. As a consequence, the efficiency of the residential furnace has risen dramatically over the last twenty years. As fuel prices continue to escalate, the effectiveness of our heating systems continues to improve.

These days, much of the technology available for in-floor heating is a quantum leap above that available in the past century.

in-floor heating pipe
In-floor heating pipe

Specially treated polyethylene carries the hot water for hydronic systems, making radiant more affordable than ever. Unlike copper, this inert plastic won’t corrode and can be installed in long runs with just a couple of fittings, reducing the chance of leaks. And with a no-fail track record in Europe going back more than 35 years, it’s also made them more reliable.

Why Radiant Floor Heating?

Few Canadians don’t relish a warm, comfortable house on a cold winter day. A place that helps them ignore snow, ice and wind as they walk through the door. A place that inspires a sense of well-being and relaxation.

However, ordinary Canadian spends a short amount of time pondering his or her heating system. A lot of us view such systems as essential but boring. When construction budgets are stretched, it is frequently the heating system that gets compromised to save money for other, seemingly more important amenities.

In many cases, it is the home builder rather than the homeowner who selects the heating system. Builders are often driven by different priorities from those who will live with, maintain and pay for the operation of that system.

People who have lived with uncomfortable heating systems don’t realize what they have been missing. Many would welcome the opportunity to live in truly comfortable houses and would willingly spend more money, to do so.

Just an even blanket of heat, right where you want it, under your feet.
Just an even blanket of heat, right where you want it, under your feet

Opposite to popular belief, comfort throughout the heating season is not solely defined by the indoor air temperature. Comfort is attained and maintained by controlling how our bodies lose heat.

If room conditions allow heat to leave a person’s body at the same rate as it is generated, that person feels comfortable. If heat is released faster or slower than the rate it is produced, some degree of discomfort is experienced.

An average adult engaged in light activity generates heat through metabolism at a rate of about 400 Btu/hr. The body releases this heat through several processes, including convection, radiation, evaporation and conduction.

For indoor environments in colder weather, thermal radiation and convection typically account for almost 75% of the total heat output from the body. Heat loss by thermal radiation alone can be 50% to 60% of the total heat loss, especially within buildings that have cold wall, floor or ceiling surfaces.

A properly designed radiant floor heating system is the key.

Properly designed radiant in-floor heating systems control the air temperature as well as the surface temperature of rooms to maintain optimal comfort. A hot water heated floor can raise the average surface temperature of rooms. Considering the human body is especially sensitive to radiant heat loss, these warm surfaces notably enhance comfort.

Conductive and convective heat are also contributors to heating with radiant heating systems, and since they emanate from your floor, which is otherwise often cool, it makes for a more comfortable, even heat distribution. Warm feet help make warm homes.

 

Thermal Comfort

Benefits Of  Radiant Floor Heating Systems

COMFORT:

Every heating system affects the health, productivity and general well-being of numerous people over many years. The ability of that system to provide thermal comfort is of paramount importance and should be the primary objective of any heating system designer or installer.

Nothing comes even close to the comfort of an in-floor heating system. The technology works much the same as how the sun warms your body. It’s a natural feel, and you can enjoy a warm chair and heated floors while walking barefoot in the winter.

 

compare heating

 

ENERGY EFFICIENT:

Several aspects of radiant heating make it more energy-efficient.

For starters, the uniform heat distribution over the entire surface of a floor heats the lower half of the room, enveloping inhabitants in warmth at a lower overall temperature—in some cases, up to five degrees Fahrenheit cooler—than a conventional heating system.

In-Floor-Heating-Diagram

Hydronic radiant floor systems save energy and lower fuel bills because radiant heat feels comfortable at lower air temperatures, enabling you to lower the thermostat. Further savings can be realized because running a high-efficiency boiler at lower temperatures will increase its lifespan. Besides, hydronic radiant heat is more efficient than other systems because it uses relatively low water temperatures to heat your home.

A distinct advantage for both comfort and efficiency of radiant floor heating is the ability to zone the heat, placing it exactly where it is wanted and needed. Multiple zoning to allow unused rooms to be turned down and use of thermal mass for off-peak storage can reduce energy bills.

CLEAN:

Radiant heating systems are just about hypoallergenic. Since the air is not forced, you don’t have to be concerned about the heating system distributing pollen, dust and other allergens in the home.

QUIET:

Without blowers, there are no noisy fans, and the home is peaceful.

ATTRACTIVE:

This underfloor heating system eliminates inconvenient floor and wall registers.

ZONING:

These systems are easy to zone and offer room-to-room temperature control with multiple thermostats.

VERSATILITY:

Radiant systems can use a wide variety of fuel sources to heat the liquid, including solar water heaters, oil boilers, wood-fired boilers or gas boilers.

Forced air systems not only blow hot air but also push allergens, dust and other airborne particles to every room in your home. Improved indoor air quality can reduce allergies, medical bills, incidences of asthma and more.

European studies indicate that dust mite populations are reduced by as much as 90% in radiant heated homes. And a quiet, peaceful environment, devoid of noisy fans and blowers, is a healthier and more relaxing environment too.

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Pros

  • One of the largest selling points is comfort. A warm floor allows you to walk more comfortably around barefoot.
  • Radiant floor heating is silent. There is no airflow through ducts as one would hear from forced-air heating systems, and there is no gurgling and little to no expansion and contraction creaking as one would hear from baseboard radiators.
  • For hydronic heating, lower boiler temperature requirements than one would need for baseboard heat increases boiler life and gives the option to use hot water heated by solar energy.
  • Not having to configure a room for a baseboard radiator or air register gives occupants more flexibility in arranging furniture. The heating system is mostly invisible.
  • Less dust circulating the house compared with forced-air systems and no surfaces that become too hot and burn dust like electric baseboard systems.
  • Good for when building occupants have an acute chemical sensitivity or allergies. A forced-air system could distribute dust, and an electric heating element or gas burner can burn dust particles.
  • Forced-air heated air rises up to the ceiling, where it cools, then down. A radiant floor system gives a more desirable temperature gradient throughout a room.

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Furniture can be placed anywhere without regard to registers or vents. And rooms with high, open ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows can be heated easily and efficiently. Mechanical systems for radiant floor heating can also be effortlessly designed because of the ability to interface easily with solar, geothermal and cogeneration fuel cells.

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Cons

  • Costs more to install, particularly for retrofits, and, depending on your local climate, you may still need a separate air-conditioning system.
  • There is a time-lag of heat movement through the flooring. This can lead to an overheating problem if there are other sources, such as passive solar, already delivering heat to space.
  • To be effective, floor coverings must be thin and conductive. The covering should not insulate the heating system from the room. Ceramic tile is the most common and effective floor covering for radiant floor heating, but thin carpeting and wood can also be used.
  • Consistent heat may not be desirable for homeowners that like to turn the heat on and off at different times of the day.[/message]

Open doors, large windows and even high air changes will not affect the building’s temperature as much as with a forced-air heating system. The heat is retained in the concrete, so the room stays warmer longer without extreme temperature fluctuations. This makes radiant floor heating in concrete slabs ideal for both commercial and residential applications. With the recommended high-density insulation placed below the slab, the floor becomes a large, warm radiator.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Radiant Heat

HEAT SOURCE OPTIONS

Heat Sources have implications for energy source choice, efficiency and durability. Water heaters can be used effectively as a budget source, but it might be wise to upgrade them to more efficient or reliable heat sources as budget allows. Sometimes heat source choices are constrained by location.

A wide variety of heat sources can be used with hydronic heating systems. They include gas and oil-fired boilers, hydronic heat pumps and domestic water heaters to name a few. Some are better suited to higher temperature systems while others are ideal for low-temperature systems.

Conventional Boilers

The most common hydronic heat source is a “conventional” gas or oil-fired boiler. They are available with heat exchangers made of cast-iron, steel and finned copper tubing.

The term “conventional” describes boilers that are intended to operate without sustained condensation of the flue gases produced during the combustion process inside the boiler. These flue gases are made up of water vapor, carbon dioxide, and trace amounts of other combustion products depending on the fuels used, and the tuning of the burner.

Condensing Boilers

In contrast to conventional boilers, gas-fired condensing boilers are specifically designed to promote condensation of the water vapor that is produced during combustion. They use large internal heat exchanger surfaces to coax as much heat as possible from the exhaust gases. The heat exchanger surfaces are made of high-grade stainless steel or other special alloys and are not corroded by the acidic condensate that forms as the flue gases cool below the dew point. When properly applied in low-temperature hydronic systems, such boilers can attain an efficiency of 95+ %.

Although they are more complicated and more expensive than most conventional boilers, condensing boilers are well suited for low-temperature hydronic systems such as slab-type floor heating, snow melting, pool heating and low- to medium- temperature domestic water heating. The lower the temperature of the water returning from the distribution system, the greater the rate of condensate formation, and the higher the boiler’s efficiency.

Wall-hung boilers when properly applied can operate with thermal efficiencies in the range of 95% to 98%.

Tank-type Water Heaters

Some hydronic systems can use tank-type domestic water heaters as their heat source. Usually, the size of such systems is limited by the heating capacity of the water heater.

In some systems, a water heater is expected to supply both domestic hot water and space heating. Although possible under some circumstances, the designer must ensure that the heating capacity of the water heater can handle both the space heating and domestic water heating loads. If these loads occur simultaneously, it is usually necessary to make the domestic water heating load a priority over the space heating load.

The preferred approach to such “dual-use” systems is to separate the space heating portions of the system from those containing domestic water using a small stainless steel heat exchanger. Because the heat exchanger isolates the space heating components the distribution system must have an expansion tank, pressure relief valve and air separator.

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Geothermal heat pumps are one of the newest heat sources suitable for some types of hydronic heating systems. They extract low-temperature heat from a tubing circuit buried in the earth, or directly from water wells or other sources of water such as a large pond or lake. Using a refrigeration system similar to that in a central air conditioner, the heat captured from the earth is boosted in temperature and then transferred to a stream of water flowing through the distribution system.

Modern homes are well insulated, have excellent glazing, low energy lighting and a variety of other energy-efficient solutions to make them seem more like the 40 mpg economy car than the gas guzzlers of the past. But if you add in-floor heating, you can start approaching the ownership of a home that behaves, by comparison, more like a car that gets 100MPG.

We say this not only because of the theoretical savings detailed above, but because we have many homeowners living with the comfort of radiant heat in their homes who report heating bills as much as 60% lower than similar-sized homes in the same community. If you might generally expect to pay $2,000 to heat your home through the cold months, bills in the $1,000 range are what many in-floor heating homeowners are experiencing. But remember, your mileage may vary.

More on: Radiant Floor Heat: Caressing Your Mind, Body and Your Soles…

Fireplaces

The Ultimate Check List For Buying a Fireplace

A fireplace will probably be a consideration as you plan your new home. The decision to include a fireplace involves lifestyle, room appeal, and the expected value it will add. Fireplaces vary greatly in efficiency. Some wood and gas log fireplaces operate at very low efficiencies while a higher end direct-vent gas fireplace can be over 90% efficient.

Fireplaces
Beautiful Stone Fireplace

Wood-burning fireplaces

There are various types and efficiencies of wood-burning fireplaces and stoves. From open masonry hearth to the most effective wood stove, choose one that offers features such as safety, energy efficiency, and ambiance. In general, open hearth wood fireplaces waste 80% to 90% of the usable heat as exhaust and conventional wood stoves waste from 50% to 70%. These types of fireplaces are not recommended in a tightly constructed energy-efficient home because of the potential for back drafting to occur. The only wood-burning fireplace that should be installed is one that has fully gasketed doors and 100% outside combustion air.

Consider the availability, the cost, and the inconvenience of wood. Seasoned firewood can be expensive and difficult to obtain. Firewood also has to be stacked and stored in a dry location and can be messy when moved from the storage area to the fireplace.

Burning wood releases carcinogens and other pollutants into the air. The smog and pollution caused by wood-burning fires have become an issue in some parts of the country. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) sets emission standards for wood stoves. (Some municipalities have standards that are more stringent and even regulate when stoves can be used.) The EPA regulations apply to freestanding wood stoves and fireplace inserts that have air-supply controls and tight-fitting doors.

What to look for:

[udesign_icon_font name=”fa fa-check”] 100% outside combustion air.

This reduces drafts and the competition for air with other exhaust appliances.

[udesign_icon_font name=”fa fa-check”]Fully gasketed doors.

In tightly constructed homes, fireplaces with fully gasketed doors are less prone to back drafting when the doors are closed. If the doors are kept closed when the fireplace is not in use, cold outside air cannot be drawn back into your home via the chimney chaseway or through the outside combustion air duct.

Typical fireplace doors are not gasketed. While operating, the fireplace will draw up to 40% of the air needed for combustion from inside your home even if the outside combustion air duct is open.

[udesign_icon_font name=”fa fa-check”]Catalytic combustor.

These honeycomb C discs are made of glass or ceramic with a thin metal coating. They usually are located near the top of the stove, just above the main fire area. When hot exhaust gases rise from the firebox, they pass through the combustor and react with the catalytic metal coating.

As a result, the combustion temperature of the exhaust is lowered, which causes the gases to reignite. The wood burns once and the exhaust burns again. The combustor has to reach at least 600°F to operate efficiently. But it can be damaged by direct exposure to flame. That’s why modern combustor stoves include a flame deflector plate to protect the honeycomb disc. They decrease emissions by at least 30% and increase overall fuel efficiency at the same time by 30% or more. New models carry EPA approval, emit up to 90% less smoke than older models  and produce overall fuel efficiencies that range from 60% to 75%.

Freestanding wood stove

Freestanding wood stoves are designed to radiate heat in all directions. A quality wood stove is equipped with a fully gasketed door, a catalytic converter, and outside combustion air.

Energy-efficient wood stove air and can be dampered to sustain longer burn times. Combustion of seasoned hardwoods in a wood-burning stove is virtually complete, resulting in very little ash. A wood stove installed in a central location in conjunction with an open floor plan will provide much greater heating potential than a typical fireplace built into an outside wall.

Natural gas fireplaces

Consider a natural gas fireplace as a clean and efficient alternative to wood-burning. Natural gas can be piped directly to the fireplace and is always ready when you want it. Also, it is safer for the environment and does not produce creosote to
clog chimneys or smoke that can back up into your home.

Direct-vent gas fireplaces

This type of fireplace is best suited for today’s tightly constructed energy-efficient homes. All openings are sealed with thermal or ceramic glass. No interior home heat can be lost through combustion in the direct-vent system. All oxygen
for combustion is drawn down into the fire chamber through the exterior pipe of a double wall-venting system. All by-products of combustion are exhausted through the interior pipe of the system.

Most direct-vent fireplaces will have efficiency ratings between 60% and 80%.

A new entry into the direct-vent gas fireplace market improves the efficiency to over 90%.

What to look for:

Ask about energy efficiency first. Most of today’s gas fireplaces have an AFUE rating which takes into account all the energy used (gas and electricity) as the fireplace cycles on and off. This rating allows for a more accurate estimate of yearly operation. Another rating is the Steady State Efficiency rating, which measures their efficiency at maintaining a steady temperature in the area they are heating. As a rule, the Steady State Efficiency figures will always be higher than their AFUE figures and are not intended to estimate yearly cost of operation.

Direct-vent design. Uses 100% outside air for combustion and can be vented directly through a sidewall. You avoid the added cost to run a chimney up through the roof.

Electronic ignition system. Consider a gas fireplace that does not have a continuous pilot.

Radiation-transparent ceramic glass front. Efficiently transfers radiant heat into the room.

Variable setting control or turndown. Allows you to adjust the heat output by regulating the rate of gas consumption. Look for a model that has a wide turndown range. Turndown ranges can vary from only about 70% of full load to about 20% of full load.

Automatic thermostat control. Helps keep room temperature constant by automatically adjusting the firing rate. Reduces energy consumption while maintaining comfort and continuous viewing pleasure.

Secondary heat exchanger. Many units have a primary heat exchanger through which room air will naturally circulate by convection. Some units have a secondary heat exchanger that extracts more heat from the combustion gasses and transfers it to the room.

Quiet variable speed circulating fan. Blows heat from the heat exchanger into the room.

Insulated outer casing. Prevents heat loss through the walls to the outside if located on an exterior wall.

Sizing

Sizing is determined by input and output ratings. The input rating is the amount of gas the fireplace can consume in one hour (Btu/h). The output rating is the amount of heat delivered to the house in one hour. For example, a 20,000 Btu/h input fireplace operating at 70% efficiency will provide the same amount of heat as a 40,000 Btu/h input unit operating at 35% efficiency and it will use only half the fuel.

High-efficiency direct-vent gas fireplaces are widely available. These fireplaces offer a means to significantly reduce energy use and CO2 emissions while maintaining a comfortable home with an attractive fire.

Pellet stoves, corn stoves, and multi-fuel stoves

Pellet stoves look similar to wood stoves or fireplace inserts, but instead of burning wood, they burn small pellets typically made from recycled wood shavings or sawdust. Although you can use pellets to run a whole house heating system, the fuel is more commonly used to feed fireplace inserts and freestanding stoves serving as supplemental heating appliances.

All pellet stoves have a hopper which typically holds one 40-pound bag of pellets. One bag should last about a day under normal operating conditions. A feeder device, like a large screw, drops a few pellets at a time into the combustion chamber for burning. How quickly pellets are fed to the burner determines the heat output. More advanced models have a small computer and thermostat to govern the pellet feed rate.

pellet stove
Pellet Stove

Like a modern gas appliance, pellet stoves use a draft-inducing fan to supply combustion air and vent combustion gases. The exhaust gasses can be vented horizontally through an outside wall, up through the roof or into a chimney with an approved chimney liner.

Regular maintenance includes daily hopper filling and checking/cleaning the burn pot to keep air inlets open and weekly or monthly ash removal depending on the type of unit and the fuel burned. Also, the flue vent should be cleaned seasonally to prevent soot building up, and unused pellets should be removed from the stove hopper and feed system at the end of the heating season.

It will be necessary to purchase the pellets in large amounts at a time to get the cheapest price. This means you’ll need a place to store 2 to 3 tons of pellets (100 to 150 40-pound bags), which hopefully won’t be too far away from the stove.

These stoves, under normal usage, consume about 100 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity per month to run fans, controls, and the fuel feeders.

Corn stoves

Corn stoves are designed for the whole kernel, shelled corn combustion. Functionality and maintenance required are similar to that of a pellet stove. The chief difference between a pellet stove and a dedicated corn stove is the addition of metal stirring rod within the burn pot or an active ash removal system.

An active ash removal system consists of augers at the bottom of the burn pot that evacuate the ash and clinkers. During a typical burn cycle, the sugar content of corn (and other similar biofuels) will cause the ashes to stick together, forming a hard mass. The metal stirring rod, which is usually connected to a motor by a simple chain system, will break apart these masses, causing a much more consistent burn.

Multi-fuel stoves can burn corn and pellets and can be adapted to burn other fuels, such as soy beans, olive pits, cherry pits, bio mass fuel grains, and processed silage. While there is a push to create stoves that are able to burn multiple fuels with minimal adjustments, some pellet stoves are not designed to stir fuel and will not burn corn or other fuels.

Some of these stoves/fireplaces may save energy dollars when heating your home, but, do some calculations to see if staying with a natural gas home-heating system is more cost effective. You may be surprised to find out that a 90%+ efficient gas furnace will probably save you more money.

For these heating appliances to work as part of a system in a tightly constructed home, outside combustion air needs to be installed. It is wise first to identify a reliable supplier of the fuel to be used before making a purchase. These heating appliances require time and attention to run properly.

If you are someone who likes to “set it and forget it,” then these are not for you.

Fireplace recommendations for a tightly constructed home

  • In a tightly constructed home, a direct vented natural gas fireplace is your best option.
  • Safety. You eliminate any possibility of back drafting combustion gases into the living space.
  • Energy efficient. Efficiencies range from 60% to over 90%. Outside air is used for combustion, so air heated by your furnace is not escaping up the chimney.
selecting a heating system

Home Heating Guide

selecting a heating system
selecting a heating system

After we survived the coldest and the longest winter in recent history, we’re all glad that it’s finally finished, and there is relief from bitter temperatures and the high cost of heating our homes.

The awful news in Ontario is that the Ontario Energy Board upholds big increases for Enbridge and Union Gas, which took effect Apr. 1st. This means an increase of around $450 per year for the average family home.

Other natural-gas suppliers are also expected to apply for rate increases as they are forced to buy more expensive energy supplies on the open market. Households heating with propane and oil have already experienced a price shock. Propane customers in Ontario saw their home heating bills nearly double in January and February compared with what they were paying in November last year.

Here are some projections for Ontario’s long-term energy plan:

Heating-Costs-Southern-Ontario

Ontario’s climate means that almost two-thirds of the energy we use in our homes goes to space heating.

Home Energy Use In Ontario
Home Energy Use In Ontario

No wonder we look to space heating when we think of energy savings

Before you start shopping for a home heating system, remember that significant gains in comfort and energy savings can be achieved quickly and inexpensively by making your home more energy-efficient. Doing so requires a series of relatively simple steps — most important, sealing leaks in the walls, ceilings and floors, and around doors and windows.

After the building has been sealed up, it’s time to pile on the insulation. Significant energy savings call for generous amounts of insulation that exceed current code requirements. Like caulk and weatherstripping, insulation not only reduces energy bills in winter, it also reduces heat gain in the cooling season, helping you slash your fuel bills while keeping you comfortable.

Ontarians have many heating choices: furnaces, heat pumps, boilers, solar or baseboard heaters—and a pick of different energy sources, e.g., gas, propane, oil, electricity or the sun. Some of us even use two or more types of heating and/or energy.

The selection of a home heating system for a new or existing home requires an understanding of how various systems operate, their initial cost, and how much they cost to operate.

Whether or not you’ve buttoned up your house, you can probably save a great deal by upgrading your heating system, either by installing a new high-efficiency system or boosting the efficiency of your present system.

Home Heating Guide – Basic Components of a Heating System

But first, when considering the various options for improving or replacing your heating system, it helps to know some of the lingo. A lot of confusing terms and concepts are thrown around by salespeople or heating system technicians, and you don’t want to get left behind.

Central heating systems have three basic parts: the heating plant itself where fuel is converted into useful heat, a distribution system to deliver heat to where it is needed, and controls to regulate when and how the system runs and when it turns off.

Basic Components of Heating Systems
Basic Components of a Heating Systems

The selection of the most cost-effective heating system will depend on the price and availability of different fuels as well as the cost of the initial heater installation. Higher initial investments are often justified by reduced utility costs over the lifetime of the unit.

Types of Heat Sources

Furnaces

Furnaces are one of the most common home heating systems, and they work by blowing heated air through a duct system. Furnaces are typically referred to as “forced-air” heating systems and can run on different types of fuel, but natural gas, oil, and electricity are the most common sources of energy currently available. Furnaces are more energy-efficient than ever, but their cost varies based on fuel rates, electricity prices, and energy costs.

Boilers 

Boilers heat water via natural gas, electricity, or propane—although the water doesn’t boil, as the name implies. As opposed to the forced air of the furnace system, most boilers move heat into your home through a radiant heating system like traditional radiators, baseboard heaters, or aluminum panels in a home’s floors, walls, or ceilings.

Heat Pumps

Heat pumps use refrigerant to absorb heat from outside sources—like the air, the ground, or even a body of water—and then use a heat exchanger to transfer it inside. (The exchange of heat can also be reversed to cool a home.) The most common kinds of heat pumps draw thermal energy from ambient air or the ground. Heat pumps, in general, are becoming increasingly popular heating choices for homeowners. Although air-source and ground-source heat pumps may be more expensive than conventional heating systems, they can provide significant energy savings to homeowners who live in temperate climates.

Solar Heating

Solar space heating systems can be designed to heat the home directly, or they can be designed to work in conjunction with domestic hot water systems. The latter will provide higher paybacks as you can use the system to provide hot water in the summer when space heating is not required.

When designing a space heating system, it is best if you can store of buffer the energy when not needed, this can be done with a large water tank but a concrete slab such as a basement floor also acts as a great storage buffer. Using solar energy directly without a storage tank of the buffer means that heat energy will only be available during the day, and a backup heating source will be needed for the evening.

Electric Heating

An increasing number of homeowners with electric baseboard heating are switching to other energy sources, such as natural gas, oil or heat pumps, because of the high cost of electric heating. While a major constraint is the lack of a distribution system, many homeowners find that air ducts for a central forced-air system, or pipes and radiators for a hydronic system, can be installed at a cost that still makes the whole conversion financially attractive.

Types of Heat Sources
Types of Heat Sources

Types of Distribution Systems

The majority of Ontario’s new homes and most existing homes have forced air distribution. Registers in each room can be adjusted to control the airflow. Return registers draw air from the rooms through separate ducts back to the furnace to complete the cycle of airflow through the house.

Hot Water (Hydronic) Heating

A hot water heating system distributes hot water from a boiler to radiators, convectors or under-floor heating systems in each room. In older homes, large cast-iron radiators are common. Modern systems feature smaller boilers, narrow piping and compact radiators that can be regulated to provide temperature control in each room. Under-the-floor heating systems can be built into the floors of new and existing homes.

Space Heaters

These have no central heating unit or distribution system. Instead, individual space heaters – such as a wood stove, electric baseboards, radiant heaters or heaters fueled with oil, natural gas or propane – supply heat directly to the room.

For safety, all space heaters except electric ones need to be vented to the outside. An appropriately-sized space heater can provide some heat to all parts of a home if the design of the home allows for the natural distribution of heat from the heater location.

Types of Destribution Systems
Types of Distribution Systems

What’s the best option?

It depends. If you’re trying to save energy, understanding the most efficient home heating options is a great start. Households in temperate climates spend a hefty share of their energy budget on keeping their homes warm.

If you are serious about overhauling your current heating system or building a new home with the most efficient home heating possible, you should start by understanding what different kinds of heating systems are available.

WHAT ARE THE MOST EFFICIENT HOME HEATING OPTIONS?

The most effective home heating option is to make sure your home is as well insulated and air-sealed as possible to prevent heat escape and to use as efficient, cheap, or low-carbon a source of energy as possible. Let’s assume you already know how important proper sealing and insulation is, and that you’re going to take care of that no matter what. What are the most efficient home heating choices, regarding new systems you can install?

Here are the main choices, from the most efficient home heating system, to least efficient:

  1. Solar heating
  2. Geothermal heating
  3. Wood heating
  4. Natural gas heating
  5. Oil heating
  6. Electric heating

Note that when we talk about the most efficient home heating choices, we could be talking about efficiency from the point of view of financial cost, environmental cost (greenhouse gas emissions plus other pollutants), or the efficiency of conversion of the original energy source into heat inside your home.

For the financial cost, we can consider lifetime costs (installation plus yearly energy costs) or just installation or yearly costs.

For energy conversion efficiency (what most people are really interested in when asking about the most efficient home heating system), we can start from the assumption that solar is free and geothermal is almost free, since up to 4 times as much heat energy is extracted from the ground as the energy in the electricity that pumps the heat out.

 

“Recommendations for Applying Water Heaters in Combination Space and Domestic Water Heating Systems” – A. Rudd, K. Ueno, D. Bergey, R. Osser – Building Science Corporation

Top 9 Upgrades That Pay Off at Resale

deck-designs13
Upgrades That Pay Off at Resale

If you’re purchasing a home from a new home builder, it’s important to consider which, if any, upgrades you’d like to have installed by your builder.

While it’s important to create the home of your dreams, it’s also important to consider the resale value of you upgrades – in the event you’d like to sell. To help you better understand which upgrades are the best return for retail value; follow these nine upgrades that pay off at resale.

1. Energy Efficiency

When you’re having a home built, it’s easy to overlook the finer details, which can often start within the walls of your home. Taking the time to ensure your home is energy efficient can not only pay off in the event that you sell the home later on; it can offer substantial savings on your utility bills as well.

With energy costs on the rise, it’s important to consider the potential increase in your utilities – while also considering the overall impact the upgrade will have on the resale of your home.

When having your home designed by a new home builder, you’ll have the option to stick with the basic insulation or to purchase an upgrade to spray foam insulation. The spray foam works by expanding between the joists of your walls – offering a more thorough application than fiberglass. This means your house stays warmer in the cold winter months and cooler in the hot, humid days of summer.

2. Granite Countertops

While it was once considered a sign of luxury, granite countertops are becoming a standard feature if custom built homes—with good reason. When you’re deciding on the countertops for the kitchen, many homeowners opt for the cheaper laminate materials, in an attempt to save some money on the purchase price of their home.

By opting for laminate countertops, you might save a few thousand dollars off the initial purchase price (average granite counters sit at $3,500.00) but it’s a decision that may end up costing you more over the long-term.

Over time, the laminate can warp, scratch and chip with repeated use – forcing you to replace them when that happens or when you eventually sell your home. Alternatively, granite is made from stone – producing a solid piece of counter space that is much less likely to scratch or chip.

3. Radiant Floor Heating 

One of the upgrades that pay off at resale is radiant floor heating. Quite a few people have heard of heated floors, especially in the bathrooms – but minimal people realize floor heating is a modern method of heating your entire home. Radiant floor heating works by warming the floor, sending the heat upwards toward the rest of your home – instead of sending the heat out into the air.

While it is a newer method of heating, it’s an energy efficient way that can keep utility costs down. It’s best to install radiant floor heating at the time of home building, making it an innovative product that can increase the value of your home down the road.

4. Whole House Generator

With an increased demand for power, rolling blackouts are becoming more common than ever before. Whether this is due to a winter storm or excessive heat wave – sitting in the dark for days can indeed take a toll. That’s not to mention the impact it can have on your supplies; food, water, quality of life – with the average blackout ranging between 3-7+ days.

Installing a natural gas generator in the home can help your property run power, even during a city-wide blackout. What’s more, opting to install a natural gas generator can improve the value of your home by offering an auxiliary power source.

5. Install an On-Demand Water Heater

Standard water heaters are becoming a thing of the past – especially as more homeowners demand energy efficient properties. That’s why installing an on-demand water heater is increasing in popularity.

Unlike traditional water heaters, on-demand water heaters offer substantial savings on your water and gas utilities. That’s because it only heats the water on a needed basis. That means you’re not going to have water “heating” at 4 am when you’re sound asleep.

6. Upgraded Wiring

The more dependent society becomes, the higher impact our devices will have on our electrical systems. That’s why it’s important to have an optimized electrical panel and wiring throughout your new home. By having a higher circuit throughout the house, you’ll be prepared for the increased demand of technology and offer a higher resale value on your home in the future.

Simply adding extra outlets and ceiling fans to individual rooms can make life much more comfortable without costing a fortune.

7. Grass Irrigation System

Landscaping is one of the key areas that can affect your home’s overall value when you decide to sell. Your front lawn is a central focal point for visitors, family, friends and potential home buyers; needing to be cared for throughout the week. Traditional watering methods can flood your lawn or leave burnt “missed” sections – becoming an eyesore over time.

Having an irrigation system installed can help you maintain your property, without having to sacrifice time and energy. Having an irrigation system can help you improve the overall property appearance and increase the value of the home in the event you want to sell.

8. Gas Line to Deck for Barbecue

Anyone who’s ever barbecued understands the frustration when you run out of fuel half way through cooking your hamburgers. Propane can be a costly fuel for a modest outdoor cook; requiring time and money to maintain. While natural gas does cost money to run, it’s often at a fraction of the price of propane.

You’ll never run out of natural gas while you’re cooking, and it’s a significant improvement to the outdoor living space. Many potential buyers look for added perks like natural gas lines when buying a home – which can help you increase the overall resale value.

9. Overall Kitchen Upgrades

In a room you use every day, it’s important that space is functional and practical. Cabinets are expensive to replace later. Installing high-quality cabinets will improve durability and appeal throughout the years – while continuing to help the resale value of your home when you decide to sell.

Look for key features like soft-close doors, high-quality handles and products that hold an overall cosmetic appeal, as well as both deepening and lengthening cabinets to ceiling height for a sleek, custom look and extra storage.

energy-efficient-upgrades

Corner Gas Fireplace

All About Gas Fireplaces

A Special Place in the Home

Fireplaces have long held a special place in the hearts of Canadians. At one time an essential source of heat for warmth and cooking, they remain a gathering spot for family and friends, a symbol of romanticism and comfort, and visually attractive addition to many homes.

Corner Gas Fireplace
Gas Fireplace

Fireplaces are so popular that, in most parts of Canada, it ‘s hard to sell a new or existing home without one.

However, changes in the way houses are built and renovated have made most contemporary homes incompatible with conventional wood-burning fireplaces. Most notably, the increased insulation and improved airtightness of today’s homes run counter to the large amounts of air required by traditional wood fireplaces.

Such fireplaces are also extremely inefficient (many cause heat loss from the home) and produce high levels of harmful emissions, which pollute the outdoor air and can have dangerous effects on indoor air quality.

Everyone wants a fireplace!

The good news is that some new fireplace designs offer a safe, energy-efficient and environmentally friendly alternative to conventional wood fireplaces. One option is an advanced combustion wood-burning fireplace, as described in CODE OF PRACTICE FOR RESIDENTIAL WOOD BURNING APPLIANCES

A second option that is becoming popular across North America – a well-designed and energy-efficient gas fireplace is the subject of this article. In both cases, the new designs can be installed as an entirely new fireplace or as a conversion of an existing wood fireplace.

Gas fireplaces have increased in popularity over the past few years. For many homeowners, the attraction of owning a gas fireplace lies in the following:

  1. the convenience of an on/off switch and a constant fuel supply
  2. the cleanliness factor (gas fireplaces generate no mess regarding ashes, wood chips, bark, etc.)
  3. the elimination of chimney cleaning
  4. the safety of sealed-combustion units, which offer little chance for toxic combustion gasses to spill into the room
  5. the environmental benefits as compared with those of a conventional wood fireplace

Although gas fireplaces have been around for a few years, many homeowners disliked their “fake-looking,” uninteresting flames. To counteract this negative perception of gas fireplaces, manufacturers have devoted much effort to produce a yellow flame that more closely resembles the glare of a wood-burning fireplace, yet is still clean-burning. As well, other aesthetic improvements have made gas fireplaces much more appealing to homeowners.

However, not all gas fireplaces are created equal. Some designs are extremely efficient, safe to operate and provide a lot of heat. Others can be very inefficient, and vent-free technology can cause indoor air-quality problems.

It pays to be an informed consumer. By knowing what to look for and what to avoid, you can select a gas fireplace that will suit your home’s decor, contribute to its heating needs and give you peace of mind.

Gas Fireplaces and the Environment

Gas fireplaces are noted for their clean-burning characteristics. Compared with wood fireplaces, natural gas and propane fireplaces produce much less carbon monoxide and particulate emissions.

However, no energy source is completely environmentally friendly. Natural gas and propane do release some pollutants when burned, primarily nitrogen oxides (which contribute to ground-level ozone, or smog) and carbon dioxide (a greenhouse gas). They also release significant amounts of moisture into the air. A poorly adjusted gas fireplace can generate incomplete combustion products, including carbon monoxide.

As with other energy-using appliances, it is important to keep in mind that buying an energy-efficient gas fireplace and using it wisely will use less energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions that contribute to climate change.

What to Look For

In recent years, a lot of efforts have gone into making good gas fireplaces. Some excellent units are available that offer a visually beautiful flame, are very efficient and can save energy in your home. The key features and terminology you will come across when shopping for a gas fireplace are discussed in the following.

Types of gas fireplaces

Three basic types of gas fireplaces are widely available in Canada:

  • inserts,
  • factory-built fireplaces (zero-clearance units)
  • free-standing designs.

Your biggest challenge will be sorting through the wide range of models available to select a unit that is as efficient as possible and that suits your particular needs.

Inserts are used to convert existing wood-burning masonry or factory-built metal fireplaces to gas. The gas burner and simulated logs are contained in a metal housing that fits into the existing fireplace cavity. The unit has a glass front for viewing and decorative metal trim. Existing chimneys must be relined with an approved vent when a gas insert is installed.

Zero-clearance gas fireplaces are used in installations where there is no existing fireplace (i.e., during new home construction or as part of a renovation project). The simulated logs and burner are inside their firebox, around which is an inner and outer shell.

This type of gas fireplace can be installed inside the house envelope, even against an outside wall. The manufacturer’s instructions must be followed carefully to ensure proper clearances from combustibles, and that approved venting materials are used.

Free-standing gas fireplaces typically resemble some of the new wood-burning stoves. These units tend to be more useful for supplying heat to the house since all of the fireplace’s surfaces are exposed to the room.

Free Standing Gas Fireplace
Free-Standing Gas Fireplace

The glass fronts used on all of these gas fireplaces can be manufactured from tempered or ceramic glass.

Ceramic glass is slightly better at transmitting infrared heat into the room. However, its principal benefit is that it can better withstand higher temperatures associated with sealed units.

Types of venting

Venting is required to remove combustion gasses from the firebox to the outdoors. Three options are available: natural draft venting, power venting, and direct venting.

Many of the gas fireplaces sold today evacuate combustion products using a vertical chimney (gas vent), which takes advantage of the natural draft caused by the temperature of the flame (hot air rises). These units have a draft hood that requires extra house air to isolate the burner from external pressure fluctuations.

Natural draft fireplaces typically use a B-vent or, in an existing chimney, an approved metal liner that includes a B-vent or a flexible metal liner.

Some gas fireplaces feature power venting, in which an electrical fan assists the venting process. Power venting allows units to be vented with horizontal and vertical flues from locations in a home where a conventional flue cannot be installed. Although power venting is not yet common, it can improve a fireplace’s efficiency and will use less house air, as a draft hood is not usually required.

With a direct-vent fireplace, outdoor combustion air is drawn directly into the firebox through one pipe, while combustion products are exhausted through another. The units are sealed, so there is no room air required for combustion and no loss of heated room air.

Direct-vent fireplaces are typically installed on an outside wall, with the vent running directly through the wall, although some models are approved for extended wall horizontal and vertical flues.

Venting may be either coaxial or collinear. Coaxial Venting uses two concentric pipes. The outer pipe brings combustion air in from the outdoors, and the inner pipe exhausts the combustion products. This is the method commonly used for sidewall venting.

Collinear venting uses two entirely separate pipes: one to supply combustion air and the other to exhaust combustion products. This method is most often used where there are space limitations when an existing fireplace and chimney have been retrofitted with a gas insert or where long vent distances and cold temperatures make condensation and vent icing a potential concern.

To be installed in an energy-efficient R-2000* home, a gas fireplace must be either direct-vented (sealed) or power-vented. This provides an additional level of protection against spillage of combustion products and helps increase the appliance’s efficiency.

Efficiency ratings

When purchasing a gas fireplace, ask about its efficiency first. However, a word of caution is necessary: many different methods have been used to measure the efficiency of gas fireplaces, some of which can give misleading results.

HeatGlo Gas Fireplace
HeatGlo Gas Fireplace

Until recently, most efficiency ratings were steady-state measurements – the maximum efficiency the fireplace could achieve operating under controlled laboratory conditions and after running at equilibrium for an extended period. This measure does not take into account many of the ways in which heat loss occurs in a fireplace.

A steady-state rating is comparable to the good gas mileage a car achieves when cruising on the highway, as opposed to the much lower mileage you get in a start and stop city driving. With a gas fireplace, the actual operating efficiency of the unit once it is installed in your home will be lower than the steady-state efficiency – in some cases, much lower.

The new EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating

The best way to determine the efficiency of a gas fireplace is to ask for its Fireplace Efficiency rating based on the CSA-P.4 test method. Tests using this Canadian standard for measuring annual fireplace efficiency have shown that some units operated in the 30 percent range while the better units ranged from 50 percent to 70 percent.

As of September 2003, an agreement between the Government of Canada and the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI) established an energy efficiency rating system for vented gas fireplaces.

The EnerGuide rating system provides consumers with the assurance of a standardized method of testing, allowing them to compare different makes and models accurately. The testing provides a Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating based on products tested and certified to the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) test standard.

The standard assesses all gas fireplaces, whether they are decorative units or are used for space heating. It is an accurate measurement that reflects the overall operation of the fireplace, taking into account its use and performance throughout the entire heating season. The FE rating is expressed as a percentage; therefore, the higher the rating, the more efficient the unit.

The FE appears on the EnerGuide label and is presented in one of two ways, depending on whether the product literature lists only a single model or multiple models.

The EnerGuide label for gas fireplaces

This EnerGuide label with the vented gas fireplace FE rating is shown in manufacturers’ product literature that features a single model. As noted in the rating system explanation in the preceding, the higher the percentage, the more efficient the model.

This label is featured in product literature where multiple models with different FE ratings are shown. Each model number listed in the documentation will identify the EnerGuide FE rating directly beside the model number. Note that both labels display the statement “Based on CSA P.4.1-02.” This statement demonstrates that the FE rating is based on the testing method that all gas fireplaces sold in Canada must adhere to.

Energy efficiency considerations

Gas fireplaces are becoming popular, both for new homes and for the replacement of units in existing dwellings. Most units are built-in, whereas others are free-standing and resemble a wood stove. If you are looking for a gas fireplace, consider its particular application: Are you looking for a decorative appliance or a heating appliance? Is the unit the right size for space, or are there supplemental ways to help move the heat to other areas of the home? Do you understand the difference between zone heating and central heating?

Consider these points:

  • Every make and model has an EnerGuide rating, not just the most efficient ones.
  • Vented gas fireplaces can look attractive and still be energy efficient.
  • The EnerGuide label provides an FE number – the higher the number, the better the efficiency.
  • Higher-efficiency equipment saves energy. The actual saving depends on the location (i.e., the regional climate and cost of fuel), the efficiency of the vented gas fireplace and the efficiency of the house itself.
  • Be careful when comparing the different ratings for appliances that are classed as “decorative” and “heater.”EnerGuide gas fireplaces directory

A gas fireplace’s input rating is the amount of fuel energy the fireplace can consume in one hour. The output rating is the amount of heat supplied by the fireplace to the house. Both ratings are usually expressed in British thermal units per hour (Btu/h) or in gigajoules per hour (GJ/h).

A high input rating does not guarantee high heat output; heat output depends both on gas input and on the fireplace’s efficiency.

A high-efficiency fireplace burns much less gas to supply the same amount of heat compared with a low-efficiency fireplace. For example, a 20 000 Btu/h fireplace operating at 70 percent efficiency will provide the same amount of heat as a 40 000 Btu/h unit operating at 35 percent efficiency – and it will use only half the fuel in doing so!

Heat output, not input, is an important indicator when determining the proper size of an appliance for your needs. Remember that a bigger fireplace is not necessarily better. Take into consideration your home’s overall heating demand as well as the area where the fireplace will be installed, and select a unit that will match your needs.

In a small room, a fireplace with a high output rating could be overpowering and cause overheating and discomfort, rather than coziness. It will also consume more fuel than necessary to heat the room. A common problem is oversizing the fireplace for the application.

A fireplace with a lower output is the obvious solution. A fireplace that allows you to “dial down” the input considerably through modulation or turndown, or that has some means of moving heat out of the room to other parts of the house, will allow for greater control of heat output to prevent overheating.

Electronic or intermittent ignition vs. continuous pilot lights

In many gas fireplaces, a pilot light ignites the main burner as the unit is turned on. A pilot light is a small gas flame that, on its own, can consume from 600 to 1500 Btu of gas per hour and, if left to run continuously, can significantly increase your annual energy costs.

You will save energy and money by turning off the pilot light when the fireplace is not being used, especially during the summer, but also when the fireplace is not in frequent use during the heating season.

Other fireplaces have an automatic starter, such as an electronic ignition or another type of intermittent ignition device, that eliminates the need for a continuous pilot by restarting gas combustion each time a flame is desired. When purchasing a gas fireplace, consider one that does not have a continuous pilot light.

Some homeowners prefer a fireplace with an ongoing pilot light because it gives them an auxiliary heat source that is not dependent on electricity (i.e., the fireplace will operate even when there is a power failure). If this is your preference, look for a unit with a simple method for shutting off the pilot and a similarly convenient and safe means of relighting the pilot.

Do not confuse this feature with most remote control or wall-mounted switches, which often control the main gas flame while leaving the pilot to run continuously.

A variable setting control, which allows you to adjust heat output by regulating the fireplace’s rate of gas consumption, is another energy-saving feature to look for when purchasing a gas fireplace. This feature, also known as turndown, enables you to maintain better comfort levels, prevent overheating and still have a flame for viewing. At the same time, you may use less fuel by avoiding much of the energy loss that results when a fireplace repeatedly cycles on and off.

Look for a model that has a wide turndown range. Some gas fireplaces allow you a small turndown to only 70 percent of full load (for a 30 000 Btu/h fireplace, this means being able to reduce gas consumption to 21 000 Btu/h). Other models will allow you to go as low as 20 percent of full load (or down to 6000 Btu/h for a 30 000 Btu/h fireplace).

Some fireplaces can be connected to a certain amount of ductwork (much like a furnace), which can help distribute heat to more remote areas of the home while preventing overheating of the room in which the fireplace is installed.

Many gas fireplaces also offer automatic thermostat controls, which help keep the room temperature at a more constant level by automatically adjusting the firing rate. On efficient fireplaces that have a wide turndown range, this thermostat feature can reduce energy consumption while maintaining comfort and continuous viewing pleasure.

However, on units that operate at one setting only or that have a limited turndown capability, the thermostat may end up turning the fireplace on and off frequently, which may affect your enjoyment of the flame and can even waste energy.

Heat exchange and transfer

An important factor to consider when purchasing a gas fireplace is the unit’s heat-exchange capabilities. Gas fireplaces transfer heat to the house by two primary means: radiation and convection.

Radiation is the transfer of heat from flames and hot surfaces to solid objects, such as furniture, walls, and people, that are in the direct path of the heat source through infrared radiation. The hotter the source and the greater its ability to emit heat, the better the radiant heat transfer.

Radiant heat allows people to feel warm, even when the air around them may be cool. In other words, when you can see the flame, you can be comfortably warmed by radiant heat. This capability distinguishes fireplaces from many other heat sources, including central furnaces.

A factor worth considering is fireplace surface area and exposure. The more a unit’s surface is exposed to a room, the more readily it gives up the heat by radiation and convection. For this reason, free-standing and hearth- mounted fireplaces that protrude from the wall tend to have higher efficiencies.

A well-designed fireplace will have channels around and behind the combustion chamber, through which room air will naturally circulate by convection.

This is a process of heat transfer where the cool room air picks up heat energy from the fireplace surface causing air currents that transport heat throughout the room.

In addition to relying on convection, some units have a heat exchanger that extracts more heat from the combustion gasses and transfers it to the house. Fireplaces that have this feature, known as secondary heat exchange, will usually be more efficient than those that do not.

Variable-speed fireplace fans can increase the amount of convective heat supplied by a fireplace by forcing heat into the room. These fans also improve the circulation of air throughout the room.

Look for quiet fans that won’t take away from your enjoyment of the fire. A ceiling fan can improve the circulation of the heated air from a fireplace and pull the more buoyant hot air down from the ceiling.

Locating a Fireplace for Maximum Benefit

If your home-building or renovation plans include an efficient gas fireplace, take some time to plan the installation so that the fireplace can effectively contribute to your heating needs.

An efficient gas fireplace can lower a home’s overall energy consumption and heating bills when located in a major living area where the heat has access to other parts of the house.

Install the fireplace in a part of the house where it will be visually attractive and where you and your family spend most of your time and will benefit the most from its warmth. This is usually on the main floor, in your family room, dining room, living room or kitchen.

The layout of your house will affect the fireplace’s ability to provide heat to other areas of the house. If you are building a new home, consider a layout that focuses on the fireplace. An open design, where there are few walls to separate rooms on the main floor, will allow heat to move from the fireplace area to other rooms. An accessible stairwell will also allow the heat to move upstairs.

Efficient natural gas fireplaces can be an effective means of lowering heating costs and improving comfort levels in homes heated by electric baseboards. The baseboards in remote rooms can keep those areas at acceptable temperatures, effectively “zoning” the house, with the gas fireplace providing most of the “comfort” heat for the rest of the home.

A properly located and well-designed fireplace can meet over half the conventional heating demands of the standard house while providing a visually appealing and comfortable atmosphere.

If your house’s layout is such that the best location for a fireplace is against an outside wall, try to build the fireplace inside the house envelope. If this cannot be done, look for a fireplace with an insulated outer casing.

Insulation is also important for a gas fireplace insert that is installed in an existing outside wall fireplace to eliminate direct heat loss from the fireplace through an outside wall.

Another option to minimize heat loss is to locate the fireplace and chimney on an inside wall. By surrounding the vent with warm rather than cold air, you ensure better draft and reduce the chances of the house becoming a better chimney than the chimney itself.

If you must install a gas fireplace in the basement, a direct-vent unit is likely your best bet since it does not require a chimney.

A direct-vent fireplace can be exhausted out the sidewall of the house above the foundation, and it is sealed to prevent combustion exhaust spillage or the robbing of air for combustion from the furnace or water heater.

Seriously consider insulating the basement before you install a fireplace there. As it will be harder to distribute heat, find a low-input fireplace or a unit that can have ducts to transfer the heat elsewhere.

The house as a chimney

An operating chimney is an enclosed column of warm air or gasses surrounded by colder outside air. The warm air or gas in the chimney is more buoyant than the dense, cold outside air, so it rises, producing a natural vertical draft in the system.

In the winter, your house is also an enclosed column of warm air that creates its form of a draft. In effect, the warm air pushes upward, creating higher air pressure at the top of the house and lower pressure in the lower levels of the house.

When an unsealed (non-direct-vent) gas fireplace has been installed in a home that has a lower pressure than outside, the house can become a more efficient chimney than the fireplace chimney itself – especially if the chimney is located on an outside wall.

Rather than using the chimney to release combustion gasses to the outdoors, air can be drawn back under negative pressure into the home through the chimney. This reverse flow of air can cause spillage of combustion gasses from a fireplace or other combustion appliances into the home, creating hazardous indoor air-quality problems.

Summary of Features to Look for in an Energy-Efficient Gas Fireplace

When shopping for an energy-efficient gas fireplace, ask for the EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) ratings
of the fireplaces you are interested in. Using this information, narrow your choices to the fireplaces that have relatively high efficiencies and can supply the kind of heat output needed for the location you have chosen.

The most energy-efficient gas fireplaces have many of the following features:

    • a high EnerGuide Fireplace Efficiency (FE) rating as tested to CSA P.4.1-02, found in product brochures or on manufacturers’ Web sites
    • direct-vent design, where appropriate
    • an intermittent electronic ignition system or an easy means of turning off and relighting the pilot light
    • a ceramic glass front
    • a quiet squirrel-cage-type circulating fan to help transfer convective heat to the room
    • secondary heat exchanger
    • insulated outer casing to prevent heat loss through the walls to the outside if located on an exterior wall
    • good turndown or other means such as ducting to prevent localized overheating

In addition to knowing what to look for in an energy-efficient gas fireplace, it is important to know what is not recommended. In the case of gas logs, ceramic “logs” with gas burners are placed directly into an existing wood fireplace to give the effect of burning fire.

These gas logs provide no real heat to the house and are essentially a waste of energy and money, as well as a potential source of pollutants, although they can provide an attractive fire.

Gas logs can also cause venting system problems, particularly in colder regions. This is primarily because wood fireplace chimneys are not designed to handle the low-temperature, low-flow, high-moisture flue gasses. If a wood fireplace chimney is not relined to accommodate these gasses, the chances of flue gas condensation and chimney deterioration are high.

As well, if the fireplace is on an outside wall, there is a risk that the gas burners will not generate enough heat to create a good draft.

Under these conditions, the house can become a better chimney than the chimney itself (see sidebar on page 20), disrupting the flame and drawing carbon monoxide and other combustion products back into the living area.

What to Avoid

A type of gas fireplace to avoid in Canadian housing – the vent-free gas fireplace – is available in the United States. As the name implies, these units do not vent to the outdoors; all the combustion gasses (including carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides and large amounts of water vapor) are released directly into the house.

These fireplaces can cause serious indoor air quality and moisture problems, particularly in airtight Canadian homes. They are not approved for use in Canada.

Installing Your Gas Fireplace

Having chosen a good location for your efficient gas fireplace, you should ensure that it is installed by a qualified technician. In most areas, a special installation permit is required before you begin, as well as an inspection once the work is completed.

Check with the dealer, your municipality or your gas utility for details. You should also inform your insurance company.

Some dealers offer full installation services. Independent, qualified contractors also install this equipment. Make sure to get several estimates. When you are comparing the estimates, take into account the contractor’s knowledge and experience, as well as the materials to be used.

Estimates should include the following:

      • an itemized list of all labor and material costs included in the estimate, as well as the total cost for all necessary work
      • a statement that clearly defines who is responsible for– all necessary permits and the payment of related fees– on-site inspections by the utility and other local authority – the scheduling of work that must be done by the utility, such as supply pipe installation and hookup
      • a clear indication of when the work will be completed
      • a warranty for materials and labor
      • a schedule and method of payment. Ask each contractor for the names of homeowners for whom they have installed similar fireplaces, and contact these references. It is also a good idea to check with the Better Business Bureau to see if complaints have been filed on any of the companies you are considering.Finally, do not hesitate to ask the installer for a clear explanation of any aspect of the work before, during or after the installation of your gas fireplace.

Safety Tips for Operating Your Gas Fireplace

• If your fireplace is installed in a home during construction or renovation, do not operate it until the area is thoroughly cleaned. Drywall dust and other contaminants can harm the fan, motors, and burners.

• Check the manufacturer’s instructions before adding or modifying a mantle or surround (minimum clearances are required).

• Have your fireplace inspected before its initial use – and continue to have it serviced on a regular basis.

• Carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions before operating the fireplace for the first time.

• Keep combustibles away from hot surfaces during operation.

• If the pilot light or flame goes out, wait five minutes, or longer (see the manufacturer’s instructions) before attempting to relight the fireplace. This allows time to clear the fireplace of gas and is particularly important with direct-vent models.

• Be alert for unusual odors or flames, which are often a sign that the fireplace is not operating properly. In such cases, contact your dealer for servicing. Contact the gas company if you smell gas.

• Make sure that air-circulating passageways and fans are kept clean and free from obstruction.

• Wait for the unit to cool completely before wiping the glass with a damp cloth (otherwise, you can cause thermal stress and breakage).

• If the glass breaks, have a qualified service technician replace it with glass supplied by the manufacturer.

• With sidewall-exhausting, direct-vent units, keep the external vent clear of debris and snow at all times and maintain the manufacturer’s minimum clearances between the vent and fences, shrubs and walkways, etc.

• If you do not have a sealed direct-vent fireplace, consider installing a carbon monoxide detector near the fireplace. These devices continually monitor the air for carbon monoxide and sound an alarm when high levels are detected, just as a smoke detector will signal the possible existence of fire (all Canadian homes should already be properly equipped with smoke detectors).

If your carbon monoxide detector goes off, open the windows, shut the fireplace off and leave the house immediately.

If anyone experiences headaches, extreme lethargy or nausea during such an occurrence, he or she should immediately seek medical treatment.

It is also critical that you determine the source and cause of the high carbon monoxide levels and have the situation remedied by a professional.

Using Your Gas Fireplace Efficiently

Purchasing an energy-efficient gas fireplace and properly locating and installing it are critical first steps in controlling your fireplace’s operating costs and helping the environment. However, it is also important to use the fireplace wisely once it is installed. Follow these basic guidelines to maximize your fireplace’s performance and minimize its energy consumption.

• If you buy a unit with a pilot light, make sure that you turn off the pilot light during the summer and during the heating season when you are not frequently using your fireplace. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when relighting.

• When the fireplace is operating, turn down your home’s main thermostat whenever possible.

• If the fireplace has a thermostat, keep it at the lowest setting possible for an acceptable comfort level – turn it down when you are not using it (otherwise the thermostat could cycle the fireplace on even when the room is not being used or when no one is home).

• Keep the glass clean to maximize radiant heat transfer.

Remember that a well-designed, energy-efficient gas fireplace, properly located and maintained, can give you hours of pleasure and comfort while reducing your overall heating bill.

Produced by “Office of Energy Efficiency Natural Resources Canada.”

Radiant-Floor-Heat

Radiant Floor Heat: Caressing Your Mind, Body and Your Soles…

There is no doubt that radiant floor heat is a superior method of heating your home. Its popularity is steadily increasing as people discover that is it not only the most comfortable form of heating but also the most cost efficient.

Radiant-Floor-Heat
Radiant-Floor-Heat

Though comfort and cost are the two biggest benefits of this heating system there are many others:

  • Silent operation – no hum or whistle of a forced air system.
  • Inconspicuousness of the system – you don’t see vents or air blowing.
  • A healthier home – forced air systems can spread dust, pollen, and germs.
  • Even, quiet warmth: even with wood, tile, or uncovered concrete floors.
  • Also, radiant heat is less likely to dry out your breathing passages and skin.

The warmth of the floor on a cold winter morning would probably be enough to convince a lot of people that radiant floor heating is the best thing since sliced bread. However, after discovering the cost savings, there is usually no going back.

Radiant floor heating concentrates the heat in the lower half of a room where the human body needs it most. Since heat is evenly distributed in the floor, the thermostat can be set 2 ñ 4∞ less than a forced air heating system. This can reduce energy cost by 10-30%. Homes and building with a high ceiling will save even more in heating costs as heat generated by forced air systems quickly rises to the top of these structures, where it is of little use.

Whereas a forced air system delivers heat that quickly rises to the ceiling ñ a radiant floor heating system radiates heat from the floor and distributes the heat evenly throughout the rooms.

In a radiant floor heating system, warm water circulates through tubing beneath the floor. This turns the flooring into an efficient, low-temperature radiator.

Though Radiant Floor heating is not a complicated system, there are components that are required, and that the homeowner should be aware of the heating source, the Pump and the tubing.

The heating source can be electricity, solar, natural gas, propane, oil, wood, or any other heating source.

The boiler, with a certified efficiency rating, houses the water to be heated. This same boiler can also be used to heat the pool, snow melting, heating a hot tub, or and domestic hot water needs.

A Pump is required to circulate the water through the tubing located under the floor.

The tubing for a radiant floor heating system is located either in the concrete, under wood subfloors, or on a subfloor of wood, precast concrete or concrete slab-on-grade, then covered with gypsum.

Once a homeowner makes the decision to install a radiant floor heating system, contacting the right installer is imperative.

Some companies who design radiant floor heating systems may also install the system.

A good System Designer and a qualified System Installer will work together and know which components work well together, capacities of various systems, special considerations for installations in your area, and manufacturersí warranties and reliability.

The designer should do a room-by-room heat loss analysis of your home or building done as well as a step-by-step system sizing process.

Radiant Floor Heating

Radiant Floor Heating and Hardwood Floor

Living in a radiant heat home provides you with a level of comfort that no other heating method can match. So, how do you combine this luxury with valuable hardwood floor?

 

Radiant Floor Heating and Hardwood Floor
Radiant Floor Heating and Hardwood Floor

Is the combination of radiant floor heating and hardwood floor a dream or nightmare?

The most important factor in a successful wood flooring installation over radiant heat is a dry slab and a dry sub-floor.

The only sure way to dry a slab and subfloor is to turn on the radiant heating system before installing the wood flooring. If this isn’t done, moisture left in the concrete will enter the wood flooring as soon as the heat is turned on.

The result is flooring that will expand, contract, shrink, crack, cup and bow excessively. If the heat can’t be turned on, then everyone involved down to the homeowner should understand and accept the consequences that will appear down the road.

Opinions on the amount of time required vary widely. Some say the heating system should be turned on at least 72 hours before installation, with a preferred time of five to six days.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

That assumes that the slab has been in place for at least 60 days. If the slab is relatively new, the recommendation is to have the heating system turned on for 30 to 60 days before installing wood floors. As always, follow the recommendations of your wood flooring manufacturer.

Wood dries rapidly when the heat is first turned on. It dries to a lower moisture content toward the end of the heating season. When the radiant heat is turned off, moisture once again starts to seep into the wood subfloor and radiant slab.

Abruptly turning on the radiant heat in the fall will subject wood flooring to rapid and easily noticed movement: Evidence of this change will be cupping or crowning of the boards. Finally, shrinkage cracks will appear between individual floor boards.

Alternatively, gradually turning the heat on before the first cool day will begin the seasonal movement more gradually. Thus, the movement of the floor will be much less noticeable. As always, humidity controls can help offset flooring expansion and contraction.

Not all species of wood are suitable candidates for an installation over radiant heating. It’s best to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for a species’ suitability over radiant heat. When possible, choose a species that is known for its stability.

Quarter-sawn or rift-sawn flooring is preferable to plain-sawn in the search for stability. Strip flooring is also a better choice than plank flooring because narrow boards expand and contract less than wide boards do.

Using narrow boards also means there are more seams in a floor to take up movement. Because of its dimensional stability, laminated flooring is another good choice.

Styles of wood flooring that are best for radiant heat installation are as follows:

• Laminated/Engineered Wood Flooring: it is more dimensionally stable than solid wood flooring.

• Floating Floors, Laminated/Engineered or Solid: tend to move as a unit to help accommodate moisture content changes.

• Certain Species are known for their inherent dimensional stability such as American Cherry, American Walnut, Mesquite, Teak, and others. Other species such as Maple and Brazilian Cherry are unstable.

• Quarter-sawn or Rift Sawn Wood Flooring are more dimensionally stable than Plain Sawn wood flooring. Narrow boards- (2¼”-56.7mm or less) are the best choice of solid wood flooring over radiant heat.

34house

GENERAL RADIANT HEAT INSTALLATION GUIDELINES:

Before you start, see manufacturers of wood floor products suitable for radiant heat!

To minimize the effect that rapid changes in temperature will have on the floor, it is recommended that an outside thermostat is installed. If one is not present, suggest to your customer that this should be considered. Unlike conventional heating systems whereby when it becomes cold, the heat is switched on, the radiant systems work most effectively and with less trauma to the wood floor if the heating process is gradual, based on small increment increases in relation to the outside temperature.

Sub-floor should have proper moisture tests according to standards in the trade.

A 6-8 mil polyethylene vapour barrier should be installed over slab radiant heat systems. Tape all seams to be sure the barrier is tight. To protect the barrier from rips, some contractors lay 1/16″ (1.5625mm) thick foam sheeting over the vapour barrier.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

When the slab has cured, turn the heat on regardless of the season and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation of the wood flooring.

The following installation systems can be used successfully over radiant heat:

1. Glue down

2. Direct nail to sub-floor

3. T & G Direct nail to sleepers

4. Single layer of plywood on sleepers

5. Double plywood floating

6. Floating solid or clip installed

7. Floating engineered or laminated

Radiant Floor Heating and Hardwood Floor

Hydronic Heating

Hydronic Heating

Invisible, Clean, Quiet, Efficient and Dependable – Living With Hydronic Heating is One of Life’s Simple Delights

In North America forced air heating is still the most popular because of its low installation costs. However, it is the most expensive type of heat to operate and the least comfortable.

Hydronic Heating

When a forced air furnace comes on, a blast of warm air blows into the room for a short time and spreads through the room, carrying dust, pollen, and other air-born pollutants with it.

It continues until the thermostat is satisfied. The warmer air rises to the ceiling, leaving cooler air below. As the room cools, the thermostat calls for the cycle to repeat.

Living in a house with hydronic heating (radiant floor heating almost make you forget that it’s winter outside.

There is no other heating system that comfortable. Heated floors deliver warmth to the skin and clothing without overheating and drying out the surrounding air.

Hydronic Heating heats objects, not air, to provide superior comfort. People are surrounded by radiant warmth, and the air temperature is uniform from floor to ceiling.

Hydronic-Heating-Curve
Hydronic-Heating-Curve

Many hydronic heating systems operate by heating up a mass, frequently the floor. By pumping heated water through tubing or pipes in, or attached to the floor, heat is conducted from the tubing to the floor.

The floor then becomes a heated mass, which radiates its heat to heat all bodies and objects above it. These objects, in turn, re-radiate the heat, heating other bodies in the room.

Since hydronic heating warms bodies first; less energy is needed than with heating systems that heat the air to warm the bodies.

The temperature of the floor, in most cases, is dictated by the outdoor temperature. If you wanted to maintain a room temperature of 70 degrees F, the floor surfaces temperature can range from 72 degrees F on a mild day to 85 degrees F on a cold day. The colder it gets outside, the warmer the floor will become.

The floor should never feel hot. When a lot of heat is not needed the floor will feel neutral – neither cold nor warm. On cold days, the floors will feel warmer, the colder it gets outside.

With radiant floor heat, you can put the thick socks and slippers away in the middle of winter. However, the floor never becomes so warm, that it would be uncomfortable to wear shoes.

History – Even Old Romans Knew What Was Good For Them:

During the days of the Roman Empire, a sophisticated system of fires were built under the great stone floors of their bathhouses. This kept the floors and the rooms warm so the patrons could lounge in luxury beside the pool.

The Koreans have done the same for thousands of years with their homes. They have a fire pit under one end of the house and direct the heated air and smoke under the floor of the house and up a chimney on the other side.

Great stones placed under the house in the path of the heated air retain the heat and continue to keep the floor warm throughout the night after the fire has gone out.

In North America radiant floor systems have continued to be used over the years on a limited basis, it was not until the advent of synthetic rubber and plastic tubing suitable for the job that there began a renewed interest in radiant floor heating.

Since the interest was rekindled in the late seventies and early eighties, a new industry has grown up around radiant floor heating. People are rediscovering the extreme comfort and energy efficiency of this type of heat.

When Does it Make Sense?

The cost-effectiveness of new technologies and construction techniques has made the comfort of radiant heating affordable and adaptable to almost any situation.

  • It especially makes sense in houses and small commercial buildings with conventional levels of insulation and standard insulated glass windows especially those in climates with minimal cooling loads where the extra comfort of radiant heat is desired, and the budget allows.
  • In buildings with large open spaces and tall ceilings.
  • In buildings where air-flushing is common, such as garages, fire stations, airplane hangars, and industrial spaces (because the large-area radiant floor allows quick recovery).
  • When cost is not an issue and satisfying most or all of the heating load with solar energy is a high priority.
  • When building occupants have acute chemical sensitivity or allergies, in which case there may be concern that dust could be distributed through a forced-air system or that high surface temperatures from a gas burner or electric heating element will burn dust particles and cause health problems.

Comfort – You Will Find Yourself Laying On the Floor More Often:

By far, the biggest selling point for radiant-floor heating is its comfort. The large radiant surface means that most of the heat will be delivered by radiation, heating occupants directly rather than by convection.

Warmer surfaces in a living space result in a higher mean radiant temperature (a measure of surface temperatures in a space that influences the rate of radiant heat loss from occupants). With higher mean radiant temperatures, most people are comfortable even at lower air temperatures.

Studies conducted by the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) indicate that with radiant heating systems, people can be comfortable at temperatures 2°C to 4°C lower than with convective systems.

Energy savings – Money in the Bank:

There is a potential for saving energy with radiant-floor heating through several mechanisms, including lower thermostat settings, lower-temperature boiler configuration, and reduced infiltration.

Homeowners with radiant-floor heating are likely to be comfortable at lower air temperatures because of the elevated mean radiant temperature in such homes, the lack of significant airflow, and the delivery of heat at floor level.

The second opportunity for energy savings with radiant-floor heating is through keeping the boiler temperature lower than is necessary with conventional baseboard hot water distribution.

The third opportunity for energy savings (over forced-air heat) is that radiant-floor systems do not increase the rate of air infiltration.

Standard forced-air heating systems can significantly increase or decrease the air pressure in different parts of a building, which in turn can increase air intake rates at least in a conventional, leaky building. With radiant floor heating, as with hydronic baseboard heating, this will not happen.

Potential for use of solar energy.

The relatively low temperature required for circulation water in a radiant-floor heating system provides an opportunity to utilize solar hot water.

This approach works best with concrete-slab systems. Higher-temperature water is needed when the tubing is attached to the underside of wooden floors.

While such systems are relatively complex and expensive, radiant slabs offer one of the best ways to make use of solar energy for heating portions of a building without direct access to sunlight.

Backup heat is still needed.  It can be provided with a wood stove, through-the-wall-vented gas heater, electric resistance heat, or backup heating element in the solar storage tank.

Quiet Operation – You Can Hear Yourself Think:

Radiant hydronic floor heating is remarkably quiet. Unlike forced-air heat, there is no noise from a fan or airflow through ducts; and unlike hydronic baseboard heat, there is usually no gurgle of water through baseboard radiators or creaking from expansion and contraction.

The only noise will be the sound of circulating pumps and the fan used in power-venting the boiler. With radiant-floor systems that have tubing attached to the underside of wood flooring, there may also be some creaking from expansion and contraction.

Humidification is unnecessary with a radiant system because radiant heat does not alter residential air moisture content, which is adequate if the air isn’t dried out by combustion or by increased infiltration of cold, dry outside air.

Flexible Room Layout – Put Your Furniture Anywhere You Please

Because there are no baseboard radiators or air registers with radiant-floor heating, there is much greater freedom as to where furniture can be placed. Radiant-floor heating systems are invisible.

Improved Air Quality:

Houses with radiant-floor heat boast improved air quality. Compared with a conventional forced-air distribution system, there is likely to be less dust circulated in the home.

And unlike electric baseboard or forced-air heat, there will be no surfaces hot enough to burn dust particles that could introduce volatile chemicals or toxic particulates into house air (even passing through filters).

This concern would be greatest for people with allergies and acute chemical sensitivities.

It’s hard to express doubts about something that’s popular. Like ground-source heat pumps, radiant floor heating has a loyal and zealous following of builders, designers, and homeowners who consider it to be the best heating option around and appropriate in almost any situation.

Until you’ve lived with this form of heat, it’s hard to judge how comfortable it is. However, once lived in radiant floor heated home most people report they would never go back to living in a house without it.

 

 Hydronic Heating

Geothermal Energy Costs

Geothermal Heating Costs

A geothermal system is a heating and cooling unit designed to extract the natural heat stored in the ground during the winter and discharge heat from air conditioning to the relatively cold ground in the summer. This article discusses geothermal heating costs in Ontario, Canada

Geothermal Energy Costs
Geothermal Energy Costs

 

A geothermal system can also heat water. The sun shining on the earth warms the ground to maintain a relatively constant temperature of about 8 degrees Celsius year-round in southern Ontario at a depth of 5 to 6 feet.

Heat is extracted from the ground during the winter, or heat is discharged to the earth during the summer air conditioning season by one of four types of installations.

Horizontal Loop Installation

If a horizontal loop system were installed, it would involve the excavation of parallel trenches, each 5 feet deep and 3 feet wide and about 130 to 150 feet long. The minimum distance between each channel is about 15 feet. All parallel trenches are connected to a  supply and return header that enters the house through the basement to the geothermal flow center.

Vertical Loop Installation

The vertical loop would involve vertical boreholes 4 inches in diameter drilled about 150 feet each. Each borehole would be separated from the next by about 10 feet. Two ¾ inch polyethylene pipes are inserted into the 150-foot borehole. The tubes are connected at the bottom using a U-bend.

Open Loop Well Water Installation

Where groundwater is abundant, a water well can also be used as the energy source/sink, reducing the installed cost by eliminating the closed-loop. However, a return well or acceptable surface discharge is required. Also, an open-loop system will require periodic cleaning of the heat exchanger to remove mineral deposits. This is regularly done once a year.

Pond Loop Installation

A pond loop system consists of 300-foot coils of polyethylene pipe circuited in parallel via 1¼-inch polyethylene header pipes. The header and coil assembly are mounted on a PVC frame that holds the coils at the proper spacing and depth allowing water to flow underneath and through the center of each coil.

The geothermal unit within the home looks similar to any other conventional heating and cooling system.

Since heat removed from the home during the summer is discharged to the circulating loop solution, there is no outside condensing unit as required for other air conditioning systems.

A geothermal system, apart from solar, is the most economical heating and cooling system available today. Because it uses free energy from the earth, its efficiency ratings are from 300% to 400% it is endorsed as having the least environmental impact and the lowest energy consumption.

Geothermal energy systems result in a 40% to 80% operating cost reduction when compared to alternate heating and cooling systems.

Geothermal Heating Costs

Both HVAC systems [forced air and geothermal] need to be designed to carry the amount of air required to operate efficiently and at maximum capacity. Generally, this is 400 CFM per ton of refrigeration capacity. A 3-ton air source system requires the same amount of airflow as a 3-ton geothermal system. Therefore, there is no difference in the initial ducting install costs between the two.

Where the geothermal system install costs come into play is the equipment costs and loop installation. 

While ordinary high-efficiency furnace costs around $1500 in Southern Ontario, the geothermal furnace will cost at least five times as much or more, depending on the make and capacity.

Also, more labor is required to install loops of plastic pipe 5 feet below ground. Drilling and excavation costs are also extra.

Since the HVAC industry has undergone drastic price changes in recent years, it is very hard to determine the exact costs between geothermal and forced-air heating.

Code changes now require higher efficiency systems, greater insulation values on the duct systems and a host of other items that affect the bottom line. Refrigerant prices continue to rise. So does fuel costs, labor rates, operating costs, etc.

The best estimate we can come up with is that all other things being equal, a geothermal system built in a typical 1700 sq.ft bungalow will cost approximately $15,000 more than a forced-air system.

Now, is a geothermal system worth the additional cost?  How much are your energy bills at present?

Typically, a geothermal system will have a payback period of 10-15 years between the cost of installing a high-efficiency air-source system versus a geothermal system.

If you are going to install a geothermal system and move from the home within that time frame, you probably will not experience any energy savings. Also, consider that the national life expectancy of an air-source system is 15-20 years before the system will have to be replaced. Geothermal systems typically have more than a 30-year life expectancy.

Let’s consider the effects of installing a geothermal system.

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      • There are around 1,000,000 geothermal systems installed in North America to date saving more than 21,000,000 barrels of crude oil each year!
      • Installing a geothermal system has the same effect on the environment in greenhouse gas emission reductions to equal planting an acre of trees!
      • Replacing an existing fossil fuel burning appliance further reduces Co2 emissions and reduces our dependency on foreign crude increasing our national security.
      • Reduces the energy requirements on our power grids, which are already substantially overloaded as evident by rolling blackouts.

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These are just a few of the many benefits of geothermal systems. Now, do these systems make sense?  

More benefits of investing in a Geothermal Comfort System

Lower operating costs – Operates more efficiently than ordinary heating and air conditioning systems, saving up to 80% in most cases.

Safe and Clean – No flame, no flue, no odors, and no danger of fire or carbon monoxide. High-efficiency filters remove dust and pollen to improve indoor air quality

Quiet operation – A super-efficient compressor and soft-start, variable-speed fan make the Premier line so quiet that many people find themselves checking to make sure the system is actually on.

Comfortable – Provides precise distribution of warmer air in winter. Gone are the uneven temperatures experienced with conventional furnaces. In the summer, you get central air conditioning with better dehumidification.

Flexible – Heating, central air conditioning, and domestic hot water — three systems: all from the same compact unit.

Environmentally Friendly – The system emits no carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, or other greenhouse gasses that are considered to be major contributors to environmental air pollution.

Attractive – The completely self-contained unit is maintained indoors. There is no need for noisy, unsightly, outdoor condensing equipment.

Reliable – Microprocessor controls and state-of-the-art components allow smooth operation and years of maintenance-free service.

Please click here to download Buyers Guide Geothermal Systems from Natural Resources Canada 

You can also download:  AN INFORMATION SURVIVAL KIT FOR THE PROSPECTIVE GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMP OWNER by Kevin Rafferty, P.E. GEO-HEAT CENTER

 

Geothermal Heating Costs

solar radiant floor system

Solar Radiant Floor Heating – What You Need To Know

Solar Radiant Floor Heating
Solar Radiant Floor Heating

Solar hot water heating systems are compatible with radiant floor systems for a multitude of reasons:

1. The radiant floor system requires water temperatures in the same range that the solar system can generate.

2. Hydronic baseboards and fan coil systems, by comparison, require water temperatures that are much higher than most solar systems can provide.

3. Both the solar system and the radiant floor systems are environmentally friendly due to the saving they provide in the consumption of fossil fuels.

4. The solar system can directly offset a portion of the fuel required to heat the water for the radiant floor system by at least 30% when compared to conventional forced air systems.

Solar Radiant Floor Heating System Components:

The solar components include:

1) Solar collectors; either flat plate copper tube or evacuated tube design;

2) A storage tank with multiple internal heat exchangers that allow the solar system to put heat into the reservoir and others that allow the radiant floor system to extract it;

3) A control package, which involves sensors to monitor the temperature at the collectors and in the storage tank, to ensure the system transfers the maximum amount of heat from the collectors to the tank;

4) A backup heat source to carry the heating load when the solar system is not able to meet demand;

The radiant floor system includes:

5) Radiant floor tubing, typically 1/2 inch PEX plastic pipe which is built into the floor;

6) A distribution manifold, usually one per floor, which allows for separate zones in individual rooms;

7) A control package, including thermostats, zone valves, and circulation pumps.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Solar Energy And Radiant Floor Heating

A solar/radiant floor combination system can be installed in any type of building or any type of construction, including slab on grade, suspended concrete slab or wood frame construction.

Installation of the radiant floor system in a wood frame building usually requires that a layer of lightweight thermal mass material be used to cover the tubing (such as Concrete, Gypspan, Gypcrete, etc.).

Solar heating system and radiant floor system can be retrofitted in existing buildings, although they are more easily installed during new construction.

In both installations, the solar system requires a south-facing roof or wall for the solar collectors.

  • Most systems require two 4×8′ panels, with more required as the load increases.
  • The panels cannot be shaded by trees or other buildings.
  • The storage tank also requires space in the mechanical room.
  • The collectors must be connected to the solar storage tank or heat exchanger by copper supply and return lines.
  • Finding a route for these lines in a home with a finished basement can be difficult.
  • The installation of a radiant floor system involves an integration of the tubing into the floor structure of all areas to be serviced by the system.

In new construction, the building design can be adjusted to accommodate.

The design of some existing buildings does not allow this type of installation.

The main heating load is during winter months, but the solar radiant floor heating system must be sized so that high output levels during summer months do not create an excess of hot water.

Designing a solar system based on winter output will produce a surplus in summer, and consideration should be given to directing this excess supply to domestic hot water consumption or a swimming pool.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

The cost of a typical solar system with two flat plate collectors, storage tank, and control package, these days vary between $5,500.00 – $7,500.00.

Installation costs will differentiate, depending on the particular case and whether the installation is new or retrofit, but the range is between $1,200.00 to $2,000.00.

The materials package for a radiant floor system includes the PEX tubing, distribution manifolds, circulation pumps, and controls,  will cost $2.50 to $3.50 per square foot of a heated area.

Installations on wood frame construction require the application of a thermal mass cover, at a cost of $3 per square foot.

The cost of installing the radiant floor system will vary depending on the type of floor construction.

Some portion of both the solar and the radiant floor system can be installed by the homeowner, particularly the basic plumbing and roof work.

The company that supplies materials can provide a pipe layout to show the location of loops and pipe runs.

A hydronic radiant floor system presents a number of advantages when used with cement slab construction. The first is the increased comfort level for occupants since the floor is heated surface.

The second is the reduction in heating costs.

Installation of the radiant floor system in a cement slab is accomplished in two steps. The first is the installation of the radiant floor piping, where the manifolds are installed in the wall cavity of an interior wall, with a flash mounted access door.

The heating system design adjusts the spacing of the piping according to the heat loss in each area of the building.

The pipe loops are a continuous run of tubing, so there are no joints in the slab itself. They start at the supply manifold, cover a portion of the floor surface and then return to the same point for connection to the return manifold.

The second step is to place the concrete. The cement crew must be careful not to rupture the piping by striking it with a shovel or other tool.

The completion of the radiant floor heating system requires the connection of the manifolds to the heat source. In most installations, the supply and return lines are enclosed in the walls. If the building has a riser design, these lines will have to be integrated into the slab as well.

 
Solar Energy And Radiant Floor Heating

wood burning stove

Wood Burning Stove – 23 Things That May Save Your Life!

23 Things You Need To Know About Wood Burning Stoves That May Save Your Life!

Note: Before installing a wood burning stove, seek advice from your stove dealer, your local building inspector or fire department. And check with your insurance agent. The insurance company may have its specifications for installation and, since you are changing the method of heating your home, your agent must be notified to maintain fire insurance coverage on your home.

wood burning stove
Wood Burning Stove Adds Elegance To Every Room

Wall Protection

1. Standards for clearances from walls and ceilings that are the basis for many local building codes state that all combustible materials, woodwork, unprotected walls, furniture, firewood, etc., should be no closer than 36 inches to a wood stove.

A simple test will tell if you have enough clearance to an unprotected wall. Place your hand on the closest surface. If you can keep your hand there comfortably while the stove is operating, the location passes the test. If not, you need additional protection.

Spacing asbestos millboard or 28 gauge steel 1-inch away from the wall allows you to reduce the distance a stove can be placed from the wall. These materials absorb heat radiated from the stove, and the spacing lets air circulate behind the panel and cool the area between the wall and the panel. The spacers should be made of non-combustible material.

A 1- to 1 1/2-inch gap between the panel and floor and at the top of the panel is necessary to provide proper air flow. Asbestos millboard is different from asbestos cement board or asbestos transite board.

Cement board or transite boards are both hard, slate-like panel materials designed as a name barrier. They provide little regarding heat resistance and will conduct heat to any combustible surface to which they are attached.

Since brick and stone are good conductors of heat, they offer little protection if placed against a combustible wall or have wood studs behind them. To be effective, bricks must be placed out at least 1-inch from the wall with air gaps at the top and bottom. You can provide these air gaps by using half bricks on the top and bottom row. Stoves can be placed as close as 12 inches from the brick facing if you provide an air space behind the brick.

An inexpensive and temporary way to protect a wall if you already have a stove installed closer than 36 inches to an unprotected wall is to provide a baffle. This baffle could be sheet metal, hardware cloth or cement board hung on metal brackets approximately 4 inches behind the stove.

 house-tool-belt

Floor Protection

2. All floors on which stoves are installed, except concrete, must be protected from both heat of the fire and hot coals falling out when fuel is added.

Metal with asbestos backing and asbestos millboard are non-combustible materials used for floor protection.

Fireproof clay tile, slate, brick, colored pebbles and marble chips can be used alone only if they are mortared in place with no gaps. If they are not mortared or have gaps, then metal or asbestos millboard must be installed between them and a wood floor.

A 2-inch layer of ashes or sand or bricks laid in the bottom of the stove helps to insulate the bottom of the stove and protect the floor. In general, 18 inches is enough clearance to protect the floor if it is covered by non-flammable material, such as a sheet of 24 gauge metal or brick or fireproof clay tile.

If the stove legs are from 6 to 18 inches long, 24 gauge sheet metal laid over a 1/4-inch sheet of asbestos millboard is needed. Legs of 6 inches or less require 2 to 4 inches of hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation and covered by 24 gauge sheet metal. If the stove has no legs, provide a sturdy support to allow air flow under the stove.

3. The floor protection should extend at least 12 inches beyond the sides and rear of the stove, and at least 18 inches beyond the stove front, to protect against falling embers and for loading wood or removing ashes.

Before installing heavy protection materials such as brick, check the floor to make sure it can handle the increased weight. You may want to reinforce the joists under the floor. Consult a carpenter if necessary.

Stove Pipe

4. A safe installation of stove pipe requires proper material, construction clearances and does provide proper draft. A 24 gauge or thicker metal is recommended;

This gauge will provide better protection in the event of a chimney fire and will also resist chemical corrosion longer.

5. Most stoves use either a 6 or 8-inch stove pipe. Using stove pipe that is smaller in diameter than the firebox outlet will reduce combustion efficiency and may cause an improper draft.

6. Keep the connector pipe as short as possible.

lt should not be longer than 75% of the vertical chimney height above the flue inlet (where the connector pipe enters the chimney).

The maximum length is 10 feet. If the pipe runs horizontally, it should have a rise of at least 1/4-inch per linear foot from the elbow or stove outlet to the chimney inlet.

7. Use 45″ angles to create an upward slope in the flue connector pipe.

Try to have no more than one right angle turn between the stove and chimney. Additional right angle bends can cause soot and creosote to collect in the smoke pipe or chimney, blocking flue gas flow and increasing the danger of fire.

The connector pipe diameter should be as large as the flue collar (where the connector pipe joins the stove).

8. When joining sections of the pipe, overlap the joints at least 2 inches, with the crimped (male) end pointing down to prevent creosote drip or leak.

Many house fires have resulted from stove pipe joints vibrating apart during a chimney fire.

Secure each joint with at least three sheet metal screws. A fireproof sealant may also be used.

9. Clearances from a connector pipe must be three times the pipe diameter (a 6-inch pipe needs 18 inches clearance) unless the wall is protected.

10. You should not pass a stove pipe through a combustible wall.

When the wall is cut between supporting studs for the thimble, inspect the opening to make sure there is no electrical wires or conduit in the space between adjoining wall studs. Heat from the stove pipe may be sufficient to melt the insulation on the wire in this space, causing an electrical fire.

Stove pipe should not pass through ceilings, closets, or outside a building. Holes in the ceiling (including hot air registers) permit fires through upper floors. A closet fire could smolder and spread undiscovered.

Running a stove pipe out a window and up the outside wall of the house is dangerous practice because the pipe cools faster than a prefabricated metal chimney and allows a rapid creosote buildup.

Some stove installations require a damper either built into the stove or in the pipe near the stove to control draft and loss of volatile gasses. Check the recommendation of the stove manufacturer.

When connecting the stove pipe to the chimney make sure the fitting is snug at the flue inlet. Use the proper thimble. The pipe must not project into the flue itself since it would hamper draft.

34house

11. Long stove pipes and those with restrictions should be frequently cleaned to prevent creosote buildup and possible chimney fires.

The entire length of the stove pipe must be easily inspected, firmly fastened at the joints and kept free of all combustible materials. Tap your pipe to check its condition several times during the heating season and before starting the stove each year.

Additional Precautions

12. Chimney and chimney connectors require regular inspection and cleaning to remain reasonably safe.

Chimney fires are a common problem. There are several factors that can cause a chimney fire.

13. Furniture, wood, newspapers, matches, etc., can ignite if placed or left too close to a stove.

These materials must be kept at least 36 inches away from the stove.

14. Never use kerosene or charcoal lighter fluids to start a fire.

Also, do not burn trash in your stove. These materials lead to hot uncontrollable fires and may cause a chimney fire.

15. Keep the fire controlled with the dampers.

Do not let it get roaring hot. A fire properly controlled is safer and more efficient.

16. If you want to keep your fire alive all night or when you are away from the house, bank the fire with ashes or damper it way down.

Do not retire or leave home with a roaring fire going in the stove.

17. Place ashes in a lidded metal container.

Because they might be hot, clean up any ashes or cinders that spill out on the floor.

18. Wear gloves when handling rough or splintery chunks of wood.

If they are heavy, take care not to strain yourself or drop them on your foot.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

19. You can burn wood in a coal stove, but you shouldn’t burn coal in a wood stove unless it is lined and designed for it.

When you add coal to an approved stove, keep the stove pipe damper open until the fuel is burning well to avoid a potentially explosive buildup of gasses from the coal. Heavily laden coal buckets can also cause strains and other mishaps if they are not handled properly.

20. Take down the stove pipe at least once or twice during the heating season and clean out the soot.

Removing the accumulated soot saves fuel, increases heat and minimizes the danger of fire.

21. If you have yet to equip your house with fire warning devices, be sure to do so when you install a stove.

Install a smoke detector in an adjacent room to avoid false alarms when you recharge the stove or from back puffing due to the wind.

22. Before opening the firebox to add fuel or just to look at the fire, always open the stove pipe damper first.

This allows gasses to escape up the chimney and eliminates the possibility of “flare up” when the air suddenly comes in through the door.

23. With today’s tightly-constructed houses, there may not be sufficient air leakage for efficient stove operation.

By providing an outside air inlet, you prevent the possibility of a reverse draft that may suck carbon monoxide fumes from combustion-type (natural gas, etc.) appliances and discharge them into the living area.

This information comes from Michigan State University Extension bulletin E-1390, Wood Stove Installation, and Safety.

Energy Efficient Home For Sale in Tiny Township

Energy Efficient Home With Radiant Heat For Sale

Energy efficient home with in-floor hot water radiant heat system
Energy efficient home with in-floor hot water radiant heat system

Energy efficient home for sale in Tiny Township – with radiant floor heat:

Our most popular model “Springwood”. This open concept 1,592 sq.ft., three bedrooms and two bathroom home is now being built on a beautiful 1/3rd acres lot, just a few minutes walk to gorgeous beaches on Georgian Bay.

This home comes with hardwood and natural stone flooring, 9ft. and vaulted ceilings with pot lights, stone fireplace, modern open concept kitchen, walkout to the 20′ x 10′ deck in back yard, main floor laundry.

Master bedroom features a walk-in closet and a full en-suite w/corner tub and separate stand up shower.

Full unfinished basement includes rough in for a third bathroom and rough in for central vac. Attached double car garage has inside entrance to the main floor laundry room and foyer. Double driveway and concrete walkway to the front door. 200 amp service.

Floor Plan:

sqFt Model

$579,900.00 (including HST!)

For prices on your lot, please click here!

Type: Residential
Style:  Bungalow
Development Level: Under Construction
Bedrooms: 3
Bathrooms: 2
Garage: Double, Attached
Basement: Yes, Full, Raised
Size: 1,592 sq. ft.
Lot Type: Flat
Lot Size: 100 ft. X 140 ft.
Year Built: 2018-2019

 

16 Things You Must Know About Radiant Floor Heating...

16 Things You Must Know About Radiant Floor Heating

16 Things You Must Know About Radiant Floor Heating...

There is no doubt that radiant floor heat is a healthier and more cost efficient way to heat your home.

An energy-efficient in floor heating system should lower your energy bills and save you money. And since radiant heat floor maintains a surface temperature of 85-90 degrees, most people set their thermostat lower (68 degrees) instead of the average 72 degrees with forced air. Plus, with more moderate heat, air doesn’t become as dry or as statically charged.

Not to mention, you also get the added advantage of a quiet heating system that doesn’t ping or hiss, and you never have to look at those eyesores like heating registers, vents or baseboard heaters.

Yes, a radiant heat flooring system is certainly one of the most natural ways to create a cozy environment with a stable and efficient heat source.

1. What is radiant floor heating?

Radiant floor heating is a comfortable and efficient form of heating where warm water circulates through flexible, specially designed tubing (PEX) installed under the floor. The heat radiates evenly up through the floor, warming people and objects in the room and providing more comfort for less money.

2. What are the major components of a radiant floor heating system?

Radiant floor heating systems will vary depending upon the needs of the client. However, there are similarities in most systems. All radiant floor heating systems have a heat source to heat the water. Most systems use either a natural gas or a propane boiler. The water is then circulated to the floors in the building through piping or tubing.

The flow of the water is managed through a variety of mechanisms such as circulating pumps and zone valves which are directed by the thermostat to send the hot water to the zones that are cold.

3. Can other types of hot water driven equipment be used with a radiant floor?

Yes. Hydronic heating encompasses much more than radiant floors. ICFhome.ca can also design, provide and install hot water baseboards, hot water radiators, hot water towel racks, and fan convectors. These devices may be used for a number of reasons, including aesthetics, increased comfort, or lower cost.

4. How does the building construction affect the design and performance of the heating system?

Naturally, the construction of a building significantly affects the performance of the heating system. For example, a poorly insulated home will require a heating system to provide a much greater output of heat to maintain comfortable living temperatures. Similarly, a home that has a large number of windows with southern exposure may require less heat in rooms that receive a great deal of passive solar heat.

It is important for the ICFhome.ca sales representative to know all of your building plans to design a custom heating system according to your needs and desires.

5. Can hydronic heating be used for ice removal and snow melting?

Yes. However, you must understand what is involved in melting snow and ice. First of all, it requires a lot of energy to do the job (around 110 -150 BTu’s/sq. ft. vs. 25-30 to heat a typical house).

Second, it takes quite some time to bring the surface temperature high enough to melt snow and ice, from a cold slab. If you have the time to wait, fine, but in critical areas, the slab must be held in an idle condition, closer to 30 deg. F., until melting is needed. This is usually done with a snow and ice sensor to turn the system on. Again, there is an energy cost to hold this idle condition.

6. Can I put a radiant floor on the top floor in my house?

Yes. You can put a radiant floor on the upper floors of any building using a couple of different methods. You can pour a lightweight concrete over the tubing on the upper floors. This adds to the weight of the upper floors and may need to be compensated for in construction. You can also put radiant floor pipe between joists on the top floor.

7. What makes radiant floor heating so comfortable?

Unlike traditional heating systems that just warm the air, radiant heat warms the floor and the objects in contact with the floor. The entire floor distributes a consistent, even, and quiet heating. There are no drafts, and radiant floor heating takes the chill out of cold tile, marble, and wood floors.

8. Can the floor get too hot?

No. A properly designed Radiant Floor Heating system will deliver comfortable warmth that’s a pleasure to walk on – especially in bare feet! If additional heat is needed to satisfy the heat load, extra warmth can easily be added by installing radiant walls and ceilings.

9. If I have radiant floor heating, can I still have air conditioning?

Sure you can. In fact, separate heating and cooling systems make the most sense. Radiant floor heating keeps the heat near the floor where it does the most good; and air conditioning ductwork is usually placed high up the wall where it is needed to cool your home. The result is optimal comfort and efficiency all year ’round.

10. Is radiant floor heating more expensive than the alternatives?

Yes. It will cost more to install; however it’s important to remember that radiant floor heating can save 20 to 40 percent on your heating bills and significantly increase the resale value of your home. That, plus the increased comfort, makes it worth the extra dollars for initial installation.

11. We’ve got allergies. Can a Radiant Floor System help?

For many, this is a resounding “Yes!” Our radiant heat system has no drafts, fans or blowers to circulate dust, dirt, and other allergens throughout your home. Warm Radiant Floors can eliminate the need for carpeting that is a breeding ground for dust mites, a very common cause of allergic respiratory disease. The result is a clean, healthy environment—a must for people with allergies.

12. What rooms will benefit the most from a radiant heating system?

The main living areas: dining rooms, family rooms, living rooms, kitchens, and baths. These are the rooms that we spend the most time in, either sitting or standing in one spot, for extended periods of time.

13. How much fuel will a radiant heated building use compared to other types of heating systems?

Depending on the type of heat you are comparing it to, it can cost approximately 30% less to heat a building with a radiant floor heating system. And of course, the other benefit being that you will be much more comfortable while spending less on your heating bill.

14. What happens if radiant floor freezes?

One potential drawback to using water in a heating system is the potential for damage due to freezing. This could occur if the heating system failed or was switched off during extremely inclement weather. The heating system would need to be off for several days for most houses to freeze.

Portions of a hydronic heating system may freeze should it be poorly designed or installed in a manner that it is not sufficiently protected from the elements. However, it is common practice to add antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors to the heating system to prevent any problems of this sort.

ICFhome.ca provides heat transfer fluid. It is a non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze, formulated with corrosion inhibitors specifically for heating systems. When mixed with water in concentrations of 50% by volume, propylene glycol will provide freeze protection down to -35° Celsius.

15. What kinds of floor treatments can I use over a radiant floor?

You can use any floor treatment you want. Radiant floor heat is compatible with tile, linoleum, carpeting, hardwood floors, etc. The only concern is that you are careful when nailing anything into the floor, so you do not puncture the tubes that circulate the water.

16. How long will a radiant floor last?

A radiant floor will easily last the life of the building or longer when properly designed and installed.

 

Solar Energy And Radiant Floor Heating

Solar Energy And Radiant Floor Heating

Solar Energy And Radiant Floor Heating
Solar Energy And Radiant Floor Heating

A clear trend is developing in consumer preferences toward the use of radiant floor heating in combination with solar water heating systems.

Solar hot water heating systems are compatible with radiant floor systems for a number of reasons:

1. The radiant floor system requires water temperatures in the same range that the solar system can generate.

2. Hydronic baseboards and fan coil systems, by comparison, require water temperatures that are much higher than most solar systems can provide.

3. Both the solar system and the radiant floor systems are environmentally friendly due to the saving they provide in the consumption of fossil fuels.

4. The solar system can directly offset a portion of the fuel required to heat the water for the radiant floor system by at least 30% when compared to conventional forced air systems.

The solar components include:

1) Solar collectors, either flat plate copper tube or evacuated tube design;

2) A storage tank with multiple internal heat exchangers that allow the solar system to put heat into the tank and others which allow the radiant floor system to extract it;

3) A control package, which involves a number of sensors to monitor the temperature at the collectors and in the storage tank, to ensure the system transfers the maximum amount of heat from the collectors to the tank;

4) A backup heat source to carry the heating load when the solar system is not able to meet demand;

Many Homes Combine Solar Water Heating with Radiant Floor Heat

The radiant floor system includes:

1) Radiant floor tubing, typically 1/2 inch PEX plastic pipe which is built into the floor;

2) A distribution manifold, usually one per floor, which allows for separate zones in individual rooms;

3) A control package, including thermostats, zone valves and circulation pumps.

A solar/radiant floor combination system can be installed in any type of building or any type of construction, including slab on grade, suspended concrete slab or wood frame construction.

Installation of the radiant floor system in a wood frame building usually requires that a layer of lightweight thermal mass material be used to cover the tubing (such as Concrete, Gypspan, Gypcrete, etc).

house-tool-belt

Solar heating system and radiant floor system can be retrofitted in existing buildings, although they are more easily installed during new construction.

In both installations, the solar system requires a south-facing roof or wall for the solar collectors.

  • Most systems require two 4×8′ panels, with more required as the load increases.
  • The panels cannot be shaded by trees or other buildings.
  • The storage tank also requires space in the mechanical room.
  • The collectors must be connected to the solar storage tank or heat exchanger by copper supply and return lines.
  • Finding a route for these lines in a home with a finished basement can be difficult.
  • The installation of a radiant floor system involves integration of the tubing into the floor structure of all areas to be serviced by the system.

In new construction, the building design can be adjusted to accommodate.

The design of some existing buildings does not allow this type of installation.

The main heating load is during winter months, but the solar system must be sized so that high output levels during summer months do not create an excess of hot water.

Designing a solar system based on winter output will create a surplus in summer, and consideration should be given to directing this excess supply to domestic hot water consumption or a swimming pool.

The cost of a typical solar system with two flat plate collectors, storage tank and control package would be $5,800.

Installation costs will vary depending on building construction and whether the installation is new or retrofit, but the range is $1,200 to $2,000.

The materials package for a radiant floor system includes the PEX tubing, distribution manifolds, circulation pumps and controls, which will cost $2.50 to $3.50 per square foot.

Installations on wood frame construction require the application of a thermal mass cover, at a cost of $3 per square foot.

The cost of installing the radiant floor system will vary depending on the type of floor construction.

Some portion of both the solar and the radiant floor system can be installed by the homeowner, particularly the basic plumbing and roof work.

The company that supplies materials can provide a pipe layout to show location of loops and manifolds.

A hydronic radiant floor system presents a number of advantages when used with cement slab construction. The first is the increased comfort level for occupants, since the floor is a heated surface.
The second is the reduction in heating costs.

Installation of the radiant floor system in a cement slab is accomplished in two steps. The first is the installation of the radiant floor piping, where the manifolds are generally installed in the wall cavity of an interior wall, with a flash-mounted access door.

The heating system design adjusts the spacing of the piping according to the heat loss in each area of the building.

The pipe loops are a continuous run of tubing so there are no joints in the slab itself. They start at the supply manifold, cover a portion of the floor surface, and then return to the same point for connection to the return manifold.

The second step is to place the concrete. The cement crew must be careful not to rupture the piping by striking it with a shovel or other tool.

The completion of the radiant floor heating system requires the connection of the manifolds to the heat source. In most installations, the supply and return lines are enclosed in the walls. If the building has a riser design, these lines will have to be integrated into the slab as well.

Author: Lyle Jory

Tankless Water Heaters

Tankless Water Heaters

Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless Water Heater – Luna Baxi

Save Money With Tankless Water Heaters

Hot water heating accounts for about 20% (or more) of the average North American household’s annual energy costs. With energy prices rising day after day, it is becoming necessary to take a closer look at where the money is going.

The average yearly cost for a conventional gas or electric storage water heater is approximate $750 for a 1300sq.ft., four members, family home. It decreases or increases depending on how many people live in the house and on their particular water usage habits.

Conventional hot water heaters store water and maintain the water temperature to the temperature setting on the tank – usually between 120° and 140° F.

That means keeping water hot even when you do not need it – while you are at work; while you are sleeping; while you are away on holidays.

These “standby” losses represent 15% to 25% of a household’s annual water heating costs.

Another thing that annoys all of us is waiting for the water to heat up because someone took a bath before us. The storage tank water heaters only have a limited amount of hot water. After that is gone, you have to wait for the tank to get heated again.

Throughout the rest of the world, where energy costs have consistently been higher than in North America, different methods of heating water are standard.

Enter Tankless Hot Water Heaters.

They began appearing in the United States and Canada about 25 years ago but have been used in Europe for the last 50 years.

Unlike “conventional” tank water heaters, tankless water heaters heat water only as it is used, or “on demand”. Opening a hot water faucet ignites the powerful burners and the computer monitors the water temperature and adjusts the burners according to the need. High demand, high heat. Low demand, low heat.

Because the efficiency rate of tankless water heaters is about 20% higher, averaging around 90% and reaching up to 96% and there is no standby losses, savings on your energy bills are evident.

Some models even have the capacity to heat the house at the same time. With these tankless water heaters, which are connected either to radiant floor heat or to a heating coil in your furnace (air handler), you can bring high-efficiency space heating capacities to every home.

Just imagine a contraption the size of your kitchen cabinet, heating your home and giving you an endless supply of potable hot water. You do not need a separate furnace and a separate water heater.

Some models can be mounted on the exterior of a home, freeing up valuable floor and closet space on the inside. The unit can be placed in a recessed box, flush-mounted and painted or textured to match the exterior of the home.

Tankless water heaters can also be used for supplementary heat, such as a booster to a solar hot water system, or snow melting systems, or to meet all your hot water needs.

The main actors include Takagi, Rheem, Noritz, Rinnai and up and coming to Luna Baxi.

We would suggest researching different makes and models to make the right choice for your particular needs and circumstances.

 Compare Tankless with Regular Water Heater:

Cost of Geothermal Heating

Cost of Geothermal Heating Systems:

A geothermal heating system can save you a lot of money on energy costs while benefiting the environment. You will want to install one almost immediately. Until you hear the costs. A geothermal system costs so much that you will be tempted to forget the whole idea.

Cost of Geothermal Heating
Cost of Geothermal Heating

So, how much does it cost to install a geothermal heating system?

Conventional forced-air HVAC systems cost about $3,000 per ton of heating or cooling capacity for a new house. Average homes typically use between two and five tons.

Geothermal systems start at about $5,000 per ton and can go as high as $7,500 or $9,000 per ton. The price varies depending on the type of loop system, equipment used and the cost of labor.

Since more work is required to install geothermal systems, this also changes the initial installation cost. Drilling and costs follow the same path.

The industry has experienced severe fluctuations in recent years. Nearly every part used to install an HVAC system has undergone price increases. Building code modifications now demand higher equipment performance, duct systems require greater insulation values and a number of other details that influence the bottom line.

Prices of refrigerant continue to rise. So do fuel costs, labor rates, managing costs, etc.

As a rule of thumb, in Southern Ontario, an average home of 2300 square feet, with a heating load of 80,000 BTU and a cooling capacity of 60,000 BTU will cost between $22,500 to $29,000 to install.

The cost to install a geothermal heating system can differ widely.

Many systems are feasible. The refrigerant could be distributed directly through the ground loop, or we can circulate air through larger underground pipes. We could also use groundwater from a well, and return it back to the ground through another well.

Groundwater systems are also known as open-loop; as opposed to the more typical closed-loop systems.

Of the closed-loop systems, distribution pipes can be run horizontally or vertically, or even laid on the bottom of a deep pond. Of these closed-loop systems, the pond is the least expensive. On the other hand, vertical systems are frequently the most expensive. Vertical loops can run as much as $25,000.00 or more by themselves.

electricity-prices
Courtesy of CTV News

Before jumping into Geothermal Heating  Systems, do the math.

Don’t rely on somebody else to do the math, unless that person has your best interests at heart. If you already have a gas forced air heating system in place, your costs will be lower. If all you have are baseboard heaters, it can still be done, but the costs will be much higher.

The easiest way to judge system conversions is simple payback. Take the total cost of the conversion and divide it by the annual savings. Both systems (standard and geothermal) will require ducting and electrical, so leave these out of the estimate.

As a reference, you can use the following figures given by the “Ontario Contractor’s Association” and “Geothermal Systems LLC” – Jan 2014.  Figures relate to a newly constructed single-family home; 2300 sq.ft. bungalow.

  • High-efficiency gas furnace supply and install  $5,500.00 – $6,500.00
  • Air Conditioner $3,000.00 – $3,500

Total installed cost for standard install: $8,500.00 (low), $10,000.00 (high).

  • Geothermal Heat Pump $10,000.00 – $15,000.00
  • Pond Ground Loop $9,500.00 – $10,500.00
  • Horizontal Ground Loop $12,000.00 – 15,000.00
  • Vertical Ground Loop $19,200.00 – $25,000.00

Total installed cost of geothermal heating system: $19,500.00 (low), $40,000.00 (high).

If we take the lowest figures and calculate the difference, cost for geothermal heating system is about $11,000 more ($19,500 – $8,500 = $11,000).

If the difference translates to 50% annual energy savings (approx. $1,500.00), it will take nearly 7.5 years to pay for itself. If, on the other hand, we take into consideration the highest figures and calculate the difference

Payback = ($40,000 – $10,000) / 1500 = 20 years

Simple payback of 20 years may not sway you the geothermal way, especially if you learn that as a reference, most utility companies use a 9-year payback as the cut-off point. The lower the payback, the higher the priority.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Now consider the effects of installing a geothermal system (These facts can be found on various websites)

  1. There are around 1,000,000 geothermal systems installed in the US and Canada to date, saving more than 21,000,000 barrels of crude oil each year!
  2. Installing a geothermal system has the same effect on the environment in greenhouse gas emission reductions to equal planting an acre of trees!
  3. Replacing an existing fossil fuel burning appliance further reduces Co2 emissions and reduces our dependency on foreign crude.
  4. Safe and Clean – No flame, no flue, no odors, and no danger of fire or carbon monoxide. High-efficiency filters remove dust and pollen to improve indoor air quality
  5. Quiet operation – A super-efficient compressor and soft-start, variable-speed fan make the system so quiet that many people find themselves checking to make sure the system is actually on.
  6. Comfortable – Provides precise distribution of warmer air in winter. Gone are the uneven temperatures experienced with ordinary furnaces. In the summer, you get central air conditioning with better dehumidification.
  7. Flexible – Heating, central air conditioning, and domestic hot water — three systems: all from the same compact unit.
  8. Environmentally Friendly – The system emits no carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, or other greenhouse gasses that are considered to be major contributors to environmental air pollution.
  9. Attractive – The completely self-contained unit is maintained indoors. There is no need for noisy, unsightly, outside condensing equipment.
  10. Reliable – Microprocessor controls and state-of-the-art components allow smooth operation and years of maintenance-free service.
  11. Much lower operating costs than other systems. A geothermal heat pump will immediately save you 30 to 60 percent on your heating and 20 to 50 percent on your cooling costs over conventional heating and cooling systems.
  12. Uses clean, renewable energy (the sun). With a geothermal heat pump, there’s no onsite combustion and, therefore, no emissions of carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide or other greenhouse gasses. Nor are there any combustion-related safety or air quality issues inside the house. (However, the pump unit uses electricity, which may be generated using fossil fuels.)
  13. It can be installed in both new construction and retrofit situations. However, it’s a lot more expensive in retrofits requiring ductwork modifications.
  14. Much quieter than other cooling systems. There’s no noisy outdoor compressor or fan. The indoor unit is as loud as a refrigerator.
  15. Low maintenance and long-lived. The indoor components typically last about 25 years (compared with 15 years or less for a furnace or conventional AC unit) and more than 50 years for the ground loop. The system has fewer moving parts and is protected from outdoor elements, so it requires minimal maintenance.

These are just a few of the many benefits of geothermal systems. Now, do these systems make sense?

Please click here to download Buyers Guide Geothermal Systems from Natural Resources Canada 

You can also download:  AN INFORMATION SURVIVAL KIT FOR THE PROSPECTIVE GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMP OWNER by: Kevin Rafferty,P.E. GEO-HEAT CENTER

Radiant-Floor-Heating

Radiant Floor Heating – Hydronic is The Way to Go!

Radiant Floor Heating
Radiant Floor Heating

Invisible, Clean, Quiet, Efficient and Dependable – Living With Radiant Floor Heating is One of Life’s Simple Pleasures

In Ontario, forced air heat is still the most popular because of its low installation costs. However, it is the most expensive type of heat to operate and the least comfortable.

When a forced air furnace comes on, a blast of warm air blows into the room for a short time, spreads through the room, carrying dust, pollen, and other air-born pollutants with it.

It continues until the thermostat is satisfied. The warmer air rises to the ceiling, leaving cooler air below. As the room cools, the thermostat calls for the cycle to repeat.

Living in a house with radiant floor heating can almost make you forget that it’s winter outside.

There is no other heating system as comfortable. Heated floors deliver warmth to the skin and clothing without overheating and drying out the surrounding air.

Radiant floor heating heats objects, not air, to provide superior comfort. People are surrounded by radiant warmth, and the air temperature is uniform from floor to ceiling.

Many radiant heating systems operate by heating up a mass, commonly the floor. By pumping heated water through tubing or pipes in, or attached to the floor, heat is conducted from the tubing to the floor.

The floor then becomes a heated mass, which radiates its heat to warm all bodies and objects above it. These objects, in turn, re-radiate the heat, heating other bodies in the room.

Since radiant floor heating warms bodies first; less energy is needed than with heating systems that heat the air to warm the bodies.

The temperature of the floor, in most cases, is dictated by the outdoor temperature. If you wanted to maintain a room temperature of 70 degrees F, the floor surfaces temperature can range from 72 degrees F on a mild day to 85 degrees F on a cold day. The colder it gets outside, the warmer the floor will become.

The floor should never feel hot. When a lot of heat is not needed the floor will feel “neutral” – neither cold nor warm. On cold days, the floors will feel warmer, the colder it gets outside.

With radiant floor heat, you can put the heavy socks and slippers away in the middle of winter. However, the floor never becomes so warm, that it would be uncomfortable to wear shoes.

History – Even Old Romans Knew What Was Good For Them:

During the days of the Roman Empire, a sophisticated system of fires were built under the great stone floors of their bathhouses. This kept the floors and the rooms warm so the patrons could lounge in luxury beside the pool.

The Koreans have done the same for thousands of years with their homes. They have a fire pit under one end of the house and direct the heated air and smoke under the floor of the house and up a chimney on the other side.

Great stones placed under the house in the path of the heated air retain the heat and continue to keep the floor warm throughout the night after the fire has gone out.

In North America radiant floor systems have continued to be used over the years on a limited basis, it was not until the advent of synthetic rubber and plastic tubing suitable for the job that there began a renewed interest in radiant floor heating.

Since the interest was rekindled in the late seventies and early eighties, a new industry has grown up around radiant floor heating. People are rediscovering the extreme comfort and energy efficiency of this type of heat.

When Does it Make Sense?

The cost-effectiveness of new technologies and construction techniques has made the comfort of radiant heating affordable and adaptable to almost any situation.

  • It especially makes sense in houses and small commercial buildings with conventional levels of insulation and standard insulated glass windows—especially those in climates with minimal cooling loads—where the extra comfort of radiant heat is desired, and the budget allows.
  • In buildings with large open spaces and tall ceilings.
  • In buildings where air-flushing is common, such as garages, fire stations, airplane hangars, and industrial areas (because the large-area radiant floor allows quick recovery).
  • When cost is not an issue and satisfying most or all of the heating load with solar energy is a high priority.
  • When building occupants have an acute chemical sensitivity or allergies—in which case there may be concern that dust could be distributed through a forced-air system or that high surface temperatures from a gas burner or electric heating element will burn dust particles and cause health problems.

Comfort – You Will Find Yourself Laying On the Floor More Often:

By far, the biggest selling point for radiant-floor heating is the comfort. The large radiant surface means that most of the heat will be delivered by radiation—heating occupants directly—rather than by convection.

Warmer surfaces in a living space result in a higher mean radiant temperature (a measure of surface temperatures in an area that influences the rate of radiant heat loss from occupants). With higher mean radiant temperatures, most people are comfortable even at lower air temperatures.

Studies conducted by the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) indicate that with radiant heating systems people can be comfortable at temperatures 2°C to 4°C lower than with convective systems.

Clip Art Graphic of a Yellow Residential House Cartoon Character

Energy savings – Money in the Bank:

There is potential for saving energy with radiant-floor heating through several mechanisms, including lower thermostat settings, lower-temperature boiler configuration, and reduced infiltration.

Homeowners with radiant-floor heating are likely to be comfortable at lower air temperatures because of the elevated mean radiant temperature in such homes, the lack of significant airflow, and the delivery of heat at floor level.

The second opportunity for energy savings with radiant-floor heating is through keeping the boiler temperature lower than is necessary with conventional baseboard hot water distribution.

The third opportunity for energy savings (over forced-air heat) is that radiant-floor systems do not increase the rate of air infiltration.

Standard forced-air heating systems can significantly increase or decrease the air pressure in different parts of a building, which in turn can increase air infiltration/exfiltration rates—at least in a conventional, leaky building. With radiant floor heating, as with hydronic baseboard heating, this will not happen.

Potential for use of solar energy.

The relatively low temperature required for circulation water in a radiant-floor heating system provides an opportunity to utilize solar hot water.

This approach works best with concrete-slab systems; higher-temperature water is required when the tubing is attached to the underside of wooden floors.

While such systems are somewhat complex and expensive, radiant slabs offer one of the best ways to make use of solar energy for heating portions of a building without direct access to sunlight.

Backup heat is still required and can be provided with a wood stove, through-the-wall-vented gas heater, electric resistance heat, or backup heating element in the solar storage tank.

Quiet Operation – You Can Hear Yourself Think:

Radiant hydronic floor heating is soundless. Unlike forced-air heat, there is no noise from a fan or airflow through ducts; and unlike hydronic baseboard heat, there is usually no gurgle of water through baseboard radiators or creaking from expansion and contraction.

The primary noise will be the sound of circulating pumps and the fan used in power-venting the boiler. With radiant-floor systems that have tubing attached to the underside of wood flooring, there may also be some creaking from expansion and contraction.

Humidification is unnecessary with a radiant system because radiant heat does not alter residential air moisture content, which is adequate if the air isn’t dried out by combustion or by increased infiltration of cold, dry outside air.

Flexible Room Layout – Put Your Furniture Anywhere You Please

Because there are no baseboard radiators or air registers with radiant-floor heating, there is much greater freedom as to where furniture can be placed. Radiant-floor heating systems are “invisible.”

Improved Air Quality:

Houses with radiant-floor heat boast improved air quality. Compared with a conventional forced-air distribution system, there is likely to be less dust circulating the room.

And unlike electric baseboard or forced-air heat, there will be no surfaces hot enough to burn dust particles—which could introduce volatile chemicals or toxic particulates into house air (even passing through filters).

This concern would be greatest for people with allergies and acute chemical sensitivities.

It’s hard to express doubts about something that’s popular. Like ground-source heat pumps, radiant floor heating has a loyal and zealous following of builders, designers, and homeowners who consider it to be the best heating option around—and appropriate in almost any situation.

Until you’ve lived with this form of heat, it’s hard to judge how comfortable it is. However, once lived in radiant floor heated home most people report they would never go back to living in a house without it.

Hydronic Heating